ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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The kit you have normally uses the M50 sensor which is a 3 pin hall effect if I remember correctly ?
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Your ECU is losing power, make sure you the 14v has voltage at all key positions and that the 2 grounds are well connected.
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4 minutes ago, pat90 said:
Allright:) The Aux output is 5volts, so I need a relay with 5v and 12v then?
Aux Output is Ground.
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You injectors are double the size of the original, halve the value in your 'master fuel' setting and go from there:
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CKP = Crank 24 pulses CYP = Cam 1 pulse per cycle.
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200hz works just fine, the frequency is the times per second that the duty can be applied, the duty is the percentage of that period that is on.
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Yes thats correct, it is effectively ignored if the correct outputs are not configured.
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confirmed.
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No you need ms.
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The Plugin does have all the ignitions on the A connector, you will need to change the ignition settings to suit (Direct Spark and Falling Edge) plus adjust the dwell times.
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13 hours ago, rtwx said:
Really glad I checked here 6 months after downloading and updating to 5.6.6; about to plug into a racecar this weekend and do not want this to happen. That would have made my day.
I install as updates come out so I always have a version to connect to clients cars that don't come from me. I never saw any email saying to not use it, or did I get one and only had a man look...?
Luckily I checked the Downloads page against my version to see if I had latest, was wondering why I'd have a newer one... and then found this thread.
Not cool.
If you have already updated you will be fine, I upgraded over 25 customers to this version before it was pulled, always back up your map before doping firmware updates.
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We see lots of wideband controllers here, the worst for sensor failure are AEM, Innovative seem to be better, there is a noticeable difference as you really don't see sensor failing that often on the LINK CAN Lambda, we put the sensor failures down 100% to the heating strategy not shocking the sensor and allowing time for residual water / condensation to be cleared.
The other thing is that the AEM sensor supplied with the kit does not appear to be bosch, but although you could argue that is the reason they fail, replacement genuine bosch dont seem to last that long either. That is the main reason we try and get people to buy the Link sensor and we always ask about the placement of their Lambda bung.
PLUS you get EGT with the Link CAN Lambda an invaluable device that has saved my customers $1000's in turbo rebuilds.
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3 minutes ago, EvilEvolution8 said:
In my log mgp = -44 kPa , fuel p =310kpa , differential = 355 kPa...this is wrong...seems that the ecu add 44 to 310...but 44 is negative...not positive...the calc is wrong!!
Because your regulator is rising rate the math channel on the Differential fuel pressure will add negative manifold pressures (actual rail pressure 310 as the regulator is reducing the fuel pressure 1:1 to the vacuum.) It will also take away positive pressure, this way the DFP remains a straight line in the ideal world enabling you to spot issues easily, just like Richard did on your log.
I can't see the timeframe on that picture and I cant open the log from my phone he size of your feed line may be too large, when the regulator tries to raise the line pressure the volume of fuel the pump needs to change is too much for it to keep up.
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The confusion comes from changing a base map to Link CAN Lambda as the ID overhangs from the base setting, would make sense to get PCLink to inherit the correct ID when the settings are changed.
The default ID is 950.
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38 minutes ago, Scoobman20 said:
I found during the cold start that the idle started off very high, and did not recover due to exceeding the idle control lockout RPM limit. This was resolved by increasing from 500 to 2000 RPM.
The Idle Control Lockout is an adder to the base idle target which now means when warm your car will be e strategy at over 2700rpm, you should set this back and look at why the idle is not coming down, maybe ignition is hanging.
43 minutes ago, Scoobman20 said:Lastly, my NB O2 sensor had been replaced with a WB O2 sensor. I've already setup the calibration table, however I'm concerned that I do not have control over the sensor heater. What is the best way to setup an aux for the sensor heater control with the G4+ Plugin (PCB v1.5)?
Set an Aux out to come on when RPM is over 600 for 30 seconds and use this to trigger the wideband relay.
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27 minutes ago, Grant Baker said:
The MXS has a default CAN ID of 1000.
Out of interest... What if you have a CAN Lambda and MXS on the same CAN Module? Both have an ID of 1000.
The CAN Lambda has a default ID of 950, PCLink defaults to setting it up on 1000, but you can change that and it wont take effect until the next reboot of the Lambda, just dont use 1000 or 958.
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You could simply use a flex fuel sensor which will sense how much methanol is in the fuel and then adjust for you.
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What are you trying to achieve ?
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Try Aux 5
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Your firing order table is set wrong.
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I have one available
www.shopbhp.com
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Have you gone trough the crank trigger calibration where you mark TDC and lock the timing to 0 degrees and adjust the offset?
Once this is done you can move on but do not alter this figure again.
You can turn vvt off for low engine load tests and illuminate a VvT issue.
if all is well carry on and set the VvT up.
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Drop the gain down, adjust the knock target so it’s just above the noise.
Not cool.
CAN IO Box
in WishList
Posted
You can send outputs via CAN (Transmit User Stream)
How many outputs do you need, you can get rid of the fuel pump speed controller and maybe repurpose the CE Light ?