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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. Check the trigger with the built in trigger scope (ECU Controls - Trigger Scope), save a log and report back here.
  2. ClintBHP

    Spark plugs

    Difficult to see the plug looks old but there is a lot going on, the plug is to cold, the timing looks too advanced and the fueling looks ok, you say 11.3:1 but you haven't said what fuel you are using.
  3. The idle ignition table should be a lot smoother than that, they 4 degrees a cell up and down from 0 idle error, also lock out the idle strategy while the vehicle is moving.
  4. I have this in my spreadsheet from the AEM Manual: (2.3750*Volts)+7.3125 so (2.3750*2.15)+7.3125 = 12.41875
  5. With 14.7 Stoic 2.15v should read 0.844
  6. Move your cam trigger slightly.
  7. You have noise level breaking through your trigger arming threshold. You have this set to 0.3v on both your signals: At idle crank the noise floor only very slightly above the 0.2 you are seeing I would raise this to 0.5 at 0rpm for both triggers On Idle the noise floor maxes out at 0.5 which is above the noise level and may been seen as a trigger I would set the arming threshold to 1 at 1000rpm As mentioned about the trigger points are near overlapping need to get this much more in the center.
  8. Ground and +5v wired the wrong way around maybe, but I actually though they had red and black wires for feed so I would hope you got that correct, could be the calibration you will need to use CAL 4, 5 or 6 and set it like this:
  9. ClintBHP

    Vvti setup errors

    Lowest is 174.3 stick that value in the offset and retest.
  10. ClintBHP

    Deadtimes base maps.

    In my opinion Dead Times are overrated (a great starting point) because they are actually only correct for the same environment they were tested in, your be better off just tuning it and then looking at the bottom of the map and seeing if the bottom line does not look right, if the deadtimes are not high enough you will have an upturned map at the bottom, to check the linearity of the deadtime table disconnect your alternator and monitor battery voltage against AFR and adjust as the voltage drops and adjust as required, for voltages above your max alternator voltage just keep the table linear.
  11. This is not something you should leave to chance, it is very common for the AEM output to be out from their calibration, the BEST way to check these is with a Link CANLambda and plot them both together in the graph, this is something a good dealer will be able to do for you, or of course just run the Link CAN Lambda and get the many benefits that come with them.
  12. Did you try turning the pull up resistor on as mentioned in my above post ?
  13. ClintBHP

    Link display

    It's a beauty, unfortunately not worth much at all.
  14. The Air con switch requests the air con be engaged via DI3 - First thing to do is try it with the pull up on as in the attached picture. If you Press F12 and look at the status of DI3 does in change to green? if so does it change to green when AC Request is on ? if not then change the on level to high. ----- The Air Con Clutch control settings under Chassis and body may also be set wrong, if the inj duty cycle is above 35 then it will switch off, so if you have your master fuel set low and your above this amount of inj duty cycle it will also not work.
  15. Do not worry for some reason they have chosen to show the drive circuit, your valve is a derivative of the Bosch HDP Series and the MSV valve is a current not voltage based device, you will need to wire it in accordance with the GDI manual and this is one we can control quite well.
  16. ClintBHP

    Link display

    Which one is it Neil? the Original RT ? over xmas RT Pro was selling for around £600 new, I have a few friends who recently upgraded and sold off their earlier non pro versions for £250ish, the pro £350ish The new dash is superb !
  17. ClintBHP

    Aim MXS dash

    Just to add all the current MXS Strada Dash's out of Aim are now 1.2 in the UK and will Transmit and Receive on the same CAN port.
  18. AEM's are in fact terrible i have had 2 exactly the same gauges here this week both calibrated differently and not by a small way, their sensors are also not bosch and fail very fast.
  19. As MAP is a reactive measurement rather than a demand based measurement you actually want some damping, fast changes are made based off throttle position. You can choose a long pipe where it may react slightly slower or a long run of wire which may induce interference the choice is yours.
  20. Set an Aux Out as AC Clutch anyway, even though its not connected it should still work for idle up.
  21. The ECU drops out when the starter is engaged. The only way to fix this properly is to use a Digital Input and set up the Hold Relay Circuit with a diode to stop backfeeding, this will stop the ECU dropping offline and also allow the car to start faster. Cut the wire to pin 16 and Wire the Relay side of the wire to a spare Ignition output, set the Ignition output to ECU Hold Power. Cut the wire to pin Pin 45 and connect the relay side of the wire to a Digital Input and ALSO connect this to the Cathode of an IN4007 Diode, The Anode side of the Diode connect to the wire on Pin 49, set the Digital Input to IGN Switch.
  22. Use Differential Fuel Pressure if the static fuel pressure is 350kpa then set the GP RPM limit if differential fuel pressure drops below 340kpa. You can also get quite clever by using a 4D table with the axis set to differential fuel pressure and then add the amount of fuel into the table that the difference in required pressure and actual pressure would require, then set the trip on injector duty cycle. (Closed loop lambda as a trim would also help here too if you kept it enabled at high revs) The think with the Link is that it is incredibly flexible to set quite clever strategies up.
  23. Your sync (cam) trigger is on top of a crank trigger on the 3rd pulse, a workaround to this is to set the cam trigger up as a Hall Sensor, Pullup Off, triggering rising edge See if that helps.
  24. Check your trigger error counter, Press F12 and look at triggers, does the trigger counter increment when the rev limit comes in. You can also log, rpm limit, rpm status and also Trig Err Counter. You are getting a trigger error, you probably have the polarity of your sensors wrong please post a trigger scope log. I just noticed you are in Nissan 360 opto mode, have you performed the setup ?
  25. This often happens when the triggers are not set up properly, i,.e not the correct number of teeth or missing teeth, or polarity is incorrect. What ECU do you have can you post a trigger scope output.
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