ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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Change that to :
Driven wheel speed source is set to: OFF
Non driven wheel speed source is set to: LF Wheel Speed
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You will need to wire and assign a Digital Input and assign this as ALS, once you have done this you can trigger the Antilag with this switch and configure the settings.
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Under Chassis and Body what is your Speed Source set to ?
If looking here does not solve your issue please upload map and log file.
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No worries buddy; it's easier to work when both axis are the same so either work in absolute or gauge pressure and not both, so choose one and it will be easier to tune for the brain.
You engine will not want 14.7 AFR from -100 to -40 kpa MGP at all revs, your also using super unleaded which is 14.5 stoic anyway, and you will want to be somewhere on the rich side of this while your engine ROC is positive but you have no control over that with your current AFR target table as its not fine enough at the bottom.
Your overrun fuel cutoff being on is stopping you from mapping the low end of the table because it is sending the Oxygen sensor into a massive lean condition, so turn this off while you are tuning.
Also your Closed loop lambda is making the mixture map almost impossible, just look at the 2750 spike and all the corrections going on.
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More getting the axis correct in revs and pressure, weather you use MAP or MGP or PSI makes no difference as both are only a math calculation of the raw ADC.
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The problem you have is that the mixture map is using the AFR Lambda target table to work out what fuel ratio is required and where you are getting the spikes you have no direct relational axis so it has to guess, once you have a base tune use the mixture map and get the axis of the AFR table in sync where you need to tune it better and don't correct the sites you have already done.
Also turn off Lambda correction and overrun fuel cut while tuning or you will get no-where.
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As a note UK pump super unleaded fuel is 14.4 Stoic as is most fuel worldwide where Toluene is used as the octane booster.
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Boost Targets are Absolute, because of this I find it easier to do all the boost control settings in MAP.
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You have a target of 150 and are making target pressure, do you mean to set your target to 250 (1.5 bar of boost) ?
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Check the trigger with the built in trigger scope (ECU Controls - Trigger Scope), save a log and report back here.
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The idle ignition table should be a lot smoother than that, they 4 degrees a cell up and down from 0 idle error, also lock out the idle strategy while the vehicle is moving.
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I have this in my spreadsheet from the AEM Manual:
(2.3750*Volts)+7.3125
so
(2.3750*2.15)+7.3125 = 12.41875
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With 14.7 Stoic 2.15v should read 0.844
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Move your cam trigger slightly.
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You have noise level breaking through your trigger arming threshold.
You have this set to 0.3v on both your signals:
At idle crank the noise floor only very slightly above the 0.2 you are seeing I would raise this to 0.5 at 0rpm for both triggers
On Idle the noise floor maxes out at 0.5 which is above the noise level and may been seen as a trigger I would set the arming threshold to 1 at 1000rpm
As mentioned about the trigger points are near overlapping need to get this much more in the center.
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Ground and +5v wired the wrong way around maybe, but I actually though they had red and black wires for feed so I would hope you got that correct, could be the calibration you will need to use CAL 4, 5 or 6 and set it like this:
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Lowest is 174.3 stick that value in the offset and retest.
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In my opinion Dead Times are overrated (a great starting point) because they are actually only correct for the same environment they were tested in, your be better off just tuning it and then looking at the bottom of the map and seeing if the bottom line does not look right, if the deadtimes are not high enough you will have an upturned map at the bottom, to check the linearity of the deadtime table disconnect your alternator and monitor battery voltage against AFR and adjust as the voltage drops and adjust as required, for voltages above your max alternator voltage just keep the table linear.
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This is not something you should leave to chance, it is very common for the AEM output to be out from their calibration, the BEST way to check these is with a Link CANLambda and plot them both together in the graph, this is something a good dealer will be able to do for you, or of course just run the Link CAN Lambda and get the many benefits that come with them.
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Did you try turning the pull up resistor on as mentioned in my above post ?
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It's a beauty, unfortunately not worth much at all.
ls coils setup question
in Link G4
Posted
I would find some intelligent coils that do not need an ignition amplifier (Less to go wrong and much tidier wiring) make a new subloom for coils using +12 from a nice new relay with a 15A fused feed from the battery and the coil of the relay ignition switched. Ground all the coils locally at the engine and run 6 new trigger wires from the ECU. You will switch the ignition mode to direct spark (as long as you have enough triggering - crank and cam sensor) and set the correct spark edge and dwell settings.