ClintBHP

The Air con switch requests the air con be engaged via DI3 - First thing to do is try it with the pull up on as in the attached picture. If you Press F12 and look at the status of DI3 does in change to green? if so does it change to green when AC Request is on ? if not then change the on level to high. ----- The Air Con Clutch control settings under Chassis and body may also be set wrong, if the inj duty cycle is above 35 then it will switch off, so if you have your master fuel set low and your above this amount of inj duty cycle it will also not work.

Do not worry for some reason they have chosen to show the drive circuit, your valve is a derivative of the Bosch HDP Series and the MSV valve is a current not voltage based device, you will need to wire it in accordance with the GDI manual and this is one we can control quite well.

Which one is it Neil? the Original RT ? over xmas RT Pro was selling for around £600 new, I have a few friends who recently upgraded and sold off their earlier non pro versions for £250ish, the pro £350ish The new dash is superb !

Just to add all the current MXS Strada Dash's out of Aim are now 1.2 in the UK and will Transmit and Receive on the same CAN port.

AEM's are in fact terrible i have had 2 exactly the same gauges here this week both calibrated differently and not by a small way, their sensors are also not bosch and fail very fast.

As MAP is a reactive measurement rather than a demand based measurement you actually want some damping, fast changes are made based off throttle position. You can choose a long pipe where it may react slightly slower or a long run of wire which may induce interference the choice is yours.

Set an Aux Out as AC Clutch anyway, even though its not connected it should still work for idle up.

The ECU drops out when the starter is engaged. The only way to fix this properly is to use a Digital Input and set up the Hold Relay Circuit with a diode to stop backfeeding, this will stop the ECU dropping offline and also allow the car to start faster. Cut the wire to pin 16 and Wire the Relay side of the wire to a spare Ignition output, set the Ignition output to ECU Hold Power. Cut the wire to pin Pin 45 and connect the relay side of the wire to a Digital Input and ALSO connect this to the Cathode of an IN4007 Diode, The Anode side of the Diode connect to the wire on Pin 49, set the Digital Input to IGN Switch.

Use Differential Fuel Pressure if the static fuel pressure is 350kpa then set the GP RPM limit if differential fuel pressure drops below 340kpa. You can also get quite clever by using a 4D table with the axis set to differential fuel pressure and then add the amount of fuel into the table that the difference in required pressure and actual pressure would require, then set the trip on injector duty cycle. (Closed loop lambda as a trim would also help here too if you kept it enabled at high revs) The think with the Link is that it is incredibly flexible to set quite clever strategies up.

Your sync (cam) trigger is on top of a crank trigger on the 3rd pulse, a workaround to this is to set the cam trigger up as a Hall Sensor, Pullup Off, triggering rising edge See if that helps.

Check your trigger error counter, Press F12 and look at triggers, does the trigger counter increment when the rev limit comes in. You can also log, rpm limit, rpm status and also Trig Err Counter. You are getting a trigger error, you probably have the polarity of your sensors wrong please post a trigger scope log. I just noticed you are in Nissan 360 opto mode, have you performed the setup ?

This often happens when the triggers are not set up properly, i,.e not the correct number of teeth or missing teeth, or polarity is incorrect. What ECU do you have can you post a trigger scope output.

The Thunder is in fact the most economical ECU in the Range IMO.

You can not mix different speed devices on the same bus.

Don't mess about with other types of wideband just fit a CAN Lambda, it works perfectly does not need calibrating and once tuned you can have it in Closed Loop mode and have perfect fuelling resulting in great economy.

This is not a damper issue I fit FP Sensors to every install and don't think any of them have had dampers fitted and I don't see fluctuations like that, + - 10kpa maybe If your fuel req is vacuum referenced then I would log 'differential fuel pressure' instead and that should be steadier. Differential fuel pressure is a calculated value derived from both MAP and FP.

We have seen the same issue and it worked with the CAN unplugged.

We have done over 60 Cosworth installs and have a superb map that will only need a tweak on the dyno for your car saving a lot of cost in dyno and mapper time, however we like to fully support our customers, if you purchased the ECU from us online the base map and full technical support including a team viewer session is available free of charge. If not we have a support product you can purchase, you are more than welcome to ring and talk to us about this and make sure you are happy with what we offer, 01474 853219 https://shopbhp.com/collections/link-ecu-accessories/products/link-g4-ecu-support-base-map-service

Out of interest did you have anything connected to the CAN port ?

Upload the pclr file and a log and we can take a look.

The map is preloaded.

No they are not presented on the ECU connector unfortunately.

Should be no need to change maps if the vehicle is the same. Do a complete system check before you run, so check every sensor and actuator works. The only thing that may need wiring is the second air temp sensor.

Wire IGN1 to Coil 1&5 and IGN2 to coil 2&4 and IGN3 to coil 3&6 - the firing order in the configuration tab will tell the ECU which coil to fire. Ground from the Coil can be bound hard to the head / block the ECU does not look for a return signal.

Fuel pumps look fine, just check the fuse is man enough. Everything still applies in 6.7 plug in or not we always test ever sensor and actuator.