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Everything posted by ClintBHP

  1. Are you sure your not 360 degrees out ?
  2. We use resistors, can you post your config an log with gear changes.
  3. Yes I have seen it twice, both times the earths had been spliced into one and were screwed to a poor ground point (one ground point was painted and one was rusty) , supplying battery voltage direct solved the problem.
  4. ClintBHP

    ECU upgrade

    Traction Control is not available on the new Storm. The A Plug is the same with the caveat that ANvolt2 and DI3 are fixed and cannot be used for DI4 and Knock both of which are now available on the second B connector. You can connect the old G4 to the new G4+ software and save the map then download it to the new storm, you will need to recheck all sensors and calibrations but in my experience it pretty much works out the box.
  5. If you have 14v all the time then it much be either an earth issue OR you are inducing too much magnetic noise, a good test for this is to bump start it, if that works then look at the starter.
  6. I put one in the air box and one in the manifold right by the cylinders. I can always see things like intercooler effficiency or heat soak. In the recent years I have moved to Garrett cores and thermodynamic blocking gaskets.
  7. You need to add a voltage divider I use 2x 4.7k resistors and then run the board from the 12v supply - it take a bit if lineararity out but 1200C is approx 6v.
  8. Let me know if we can help further were in the UK 01474 850666
  9. In a piggy back situation I wire the old EML light into the Link on a DI so you know if there is something wrong with the OE ECU and then just wire the Dash to an Aux Out configured as the CEL from the link.
  10. Yes the Link is fully compliant with the new UK MOT Laws.
  11. CLL isn't very good on boost so most people would be open anyway. In practice rich mixture has little downside except fuel economy, so you would run as rich as possible spark permitting and with big capacitive discharge systems you can go low.
  12. You can run Meth down at 0.55 Lambda in drag applications.
  13. You would not want to be doing any active manipulation of fuel on the floor measurement of the sensor, but you could measure the difference between 0.71 and 0.68 as its a percentage you will get a good idea of the % of fuel to remove to get to 0.65
  14. I normally trigger it on either clutch or handbrake switch, you cant use any advanced features without a wheel speed sensor, but often a basic 2 step launch control is adequate. For 2D, 3D and Rolling Start Strategies wheel speed sensor/s are required. Often cars with ABS deletes from factors still have the sensor locations, so it might be as simple as adding an ABS sensor and a divide by 8 circuit to get the sensor frequency in range of the input.
  15. AEM will work, but it will also have a few disadvantages over the Link CAN based Lambda.
  16. Any boost valve will work, some better than others, the Link valve is a great high quality high volume valve if you need to buy a new one. In cabin adjustment can be enabled either by a switch or via a rotary switch, takes a little bit of setting up but pretty easy once you get your head around it. You will defiantly benefit from a Wideband, it will enable autotune function, closed loop lambda and lean trip for safety. Dont mess about with 3rd party widebands just grab a CAN Lambda as it integrates perfectly and the ECU gets to see the controller status directly. Hope this helps
  17. Possibly, please post a picture, it will m ore than likely be an easy repair though so dont panic too much yet.
  18. Your ANVolt4 input is setup for a general purpose input. Where you are using a rotary switch with even resistance steps and 1st position is Ground and last position is 5v you can you set the input to 0-5v set the error low to 0v and error high to 5v, then set your table to the correct voltage steps, for instance a 6 position switch (5v/(no of positions -1), this would have 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5v on the boost axis. For WOT you don't need a dedicated input as you already have TPS, if you want to use a switch function from this you can simply use a Virtual Aux set to GP Input with the condition of TPS>98% If for any reason you want a new input you can use DI9 or DI10 on the Expansion Connector by using a Loom XLS
  19. ClintBHP

    Evo 6 setup

    1, please press F4 to save to ECU 2, Try changing the polarity on the Aux Output.
  20. Lower the Limit Control Range for more aggressive cut.
  21. did you calibrate your trigger ?
  22. ClintBHP

    Pops and bangs

    Ok in which case you really need to approach a tuner, as its not as simple as turning a switch on it will need careful consideration and mapping to give reliable pops and bangs. If your in the UK I can help.
  23. Both the Ignition and Fuelling Strategies are independent of triggers, you just need 'enough' triggers for the strategy you need to run. The Holley Dual Sensor dizzy, gives you 1 pulse per fire for Crank and Single Pulse for Cam. So Trig1 = Crank and Trig 2 = Cam With this setup you can run both Distributor and Wasted Spark Ignition and Multi Point Grouped for Injection.
  24. Sounds Like you have a positive supply issue, check the +14v line, this will both make the laptop lose comms and trigger the fuel pump relay. The ECU will ground the output when the ECU is not powered so you need to wire BOTH the ECU +14v and the positive side of the relay to Ignition Key switched live. For the relay to stay on it need both the +14v from the ignition switched live AND a ground from the ECU: If the ECU +14v is powered off then also the relay should be off so the fuel pump should also be off, if it is running then the ECU alone must have lost power or you have another wiring issue.
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