ClintBHP
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Posts posted by ClintBHP
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If you sure the output is not working I would arrange a return to your dealer, if your in the UK your welcome to send it to us: www.shopbhp.com
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For the injector +14v line I take them back into the loom and use a glued heat shrink tyco splice to pull them back to the relay.
5v are fine to splice the same way.
the grounds must be run separate to the grounding point on the engine.
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Try increasing RPM Lockout under Idle Speed Control.
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Try bumping it with one of the laptops with the issue, I bet its fine, will be magnetic interference from the Starter.
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We use resistors, can you post your config an log with gear changes.
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Yes I have seen it twice, both times the earths had been spliced into one and were screwed to a poor ground point (one ground point was painted and one was rusty) , supplying battery voltage direct solved the problem.
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ECU upgrade
in G4+
Traction Control is not available on the new Storm.
The A Plug is the same with the caveat that ANvolt2 and DI3 are fixed and cannot be used for DI4 and Knock both of which are now available on the second B connector.
You can connect the old G4 to the new G4+ software and save the map then download it to the new storm, you will need to recheck all sensors and calibrations but in my experience it pretty much works out the box.
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If you have 14v all the time then it much be either an earth issue OR you are inducing too much magnetic noise, a good test for this is to bump start it, if that works then look at the starter.
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I put one in the air box and one in the manifold right by the cylinders. I can always see things like intercooler effficiency or heat soak. In the recent years I have moved to Garrett cores and thermodynamic blocking gaskets.
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You need to add a voltage divider I use 2x 4.7k resistors and then run the board from the 12v supply - it take a bit if lineararity out but 1200C is approx 6v.
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52 minutes ago, M1tch said:
Thank you, I will check to see if my Link ECU does fire the EML or not - I am using a Boomsland plug and play harness so they might have already done this to ensure all OEM dash functions work.
Apologies if I sounded a bit blunt in my initial post, having invested in the Link ECU I didn't want it to cause issues with the road worthiness of the car as the project car is a road car rather than a track only car.
Let me know if we can help further were in the UK 01474 850666
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47 minutes ago, M1tch said:
Thanks for that, the issue being is that my Link Xtreme needs to be wired into the car in a piggyback fashion and I need to retain the stock ECU for some function - I don't think that this setting will work on mine.
In a piggy back situation I wire the old EML light into the Link on a DI so you know if there is something wrong with the OE ECU and then just wire the Dash to an Aux Out configured as the CEL from the link.
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Yes the Link is fully compliant with the new UK MOT Laws.
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8 minutes ago, Tim Hardisty said:
OK...guessing that's for cooling reasons? So closed-loop lambda control isn't really that relevant and you'd run open loop and just chuck loads of fuel in?
CLL isn't very good on boost so most people would be open anyway.
In practice rich mixture has little downside except fuel economy, so you would run as rich as possible spark permitting and with big capacitive discharge systems you can go low.
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10 minutes ago, Tim Hardisty said:
Sorry to be dumb/inexperienced...why do you need/want .65 lambda? That's SOOO rich!
You can run Meth down at 0.55 Lambda in drag applications.
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You would not want to be doing any active manipulation of fuel on the floor measurement of the sensor, but you could measure the difference between 0.71 and 0.68 as its a percentage you will get a good idea of the % of fuel to remove to get to 0.65
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I normally trigger it on either clutch or handbrake switch, you cant use any advanced features without a wheel speed sensor, but often a basic 2 step launch control is adequate.
For 2D, 3D and Rolling Start Strategies wheel speed sensor/s are required.
Often cars with ABS deletes from factors still have the sensor locations, so it might be as simple as adding an ABS sensor and a divide by 8 circuit to get the sensor frequency in range of the input.
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AEM will work, but it will also have a few disadvantages over the Link CAN based Lambda.
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Any boost valve will work, some better than others, the Link valve is a great high quality high volume valve if you need to buy a new one.
In cabin adjustment can be enabled either by a switch or via a rotary switch, takes a little bit of setting up but pretty easy once you get your head around it.
You will defiantly benefit from a Wideband, it will enable autotune function, closed loop lambda and lean trip for safety. Dont mess about with 3rd party widebands just grab a CAN Lambda as it integrates perfectly and the ECU gets to see the controller status directly.
Hope this helps
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Possibly, please post a picture, it will m ore than likely be an easy repair though so dont panic too much yet.
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Your ANVolt4 input is setup for a general purpose input.
Where you are using a rotary switch with even resistance steps and 1st position is Ground and last position is 5v you can you set the input to 0-5v set the error low to 0v and error high to 5v, then set your table to the correct voltage steps, for instance a 6 position switch (5v/(no of positions -1), this would have 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5v on the boost axis.
For WOT you don't need a dedicated input as you already have TPS, if you want to use a switch function from this you can simply use a Virtual Aux set to GP Input with the condition of TPS>98%
If for any reason you want a new input you can use DI9 or DI10 on the Expansion Connector by using a Loom XLS
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Evo 6 setup
in G4+
1, please press F4 to save to ECU
2, Try changing the polarity on the Aux Output.
Atom to run ignition on classic motor
in Guest
Posted
I have done a few Pintos, Xflow's Lotus and BDA's here in the UK, shout if you need any help.