ClintBHP

Did you try the ignition trick ?

Be nice to know exactly how wrong as it what figures, you can upload both configs here. You are probably not converting from PSI into mbar in the 'multiplier, divider and offset'; which is what the dash wants to see. Also a lot of people come unstuck 'trying' things as they for get they have to upload and power cycle the dash.

Perfectly possible connect your old G4 to the new G4+ PCLink software and download the map and save it, connect the new G4+ ECU and connect and download the map. You will need to check ALL settings.

There are a few technical reasons for this, I would say the CAN Specification states a rate of 250 or 500kbs, so both of your devices if designed to work on OSI Standard OBD2 should be compliant and be able to run on the same Bus i.e. CAN1, I would suggest you ask the other manufacturers why they are not compliant if that is the case, rather than ask Link why they are compliant, see where I am coming from ?

Barometric sensor, press F12 and look in the General Tab:

Should read same as the BAP sensor with the engine not running.

Then I would think its a sticky valve.

Did you try the ignition trick ?

Ah I see, you can only have ISO OBD output on one of the CAN ports at a time.

it doesn't do it when valve is un plugged. You have the Idle Base Position set to 35% so this in the minimum the valve will shut, try changing the min clamp value to 15 and take 50% out the Idle Base Position Table, and play around with that, get this near perfect then turn closed loop back on.

Look normal, did you try clicking 'ok' ?

If it still does it with the valve unplugged then I would suspect ignition hangup two things you can try: At -80kpa and below I would put 30 degrees of ignition in at 4000 revs and then highlight between 1000rpm and 4000rpm and interoperate between, which should make that point its hanging up a more reasonable 21 degrees. OR Use Idle ignition control to pull ignition out when idle conditions are met.

To get the information you need add these to your logging: AFR/Lambda Target Lambda 1 CL Lamdba Fuel Corr %

Unplug the sensor and raise your base idle if needed so it does not stall and see if it still happens.

I have actually had some great success tuning with the CLL information for fine adjustment on my own car. So I use the car to drive around everyday creating a log and every now and then I grab that log of an evening and see where the CLL is making the most changes and I alter the map where it is adjusting the most, eventually you will get it down to the CLL only making tiny adjustments. This fine tuning is something that is normally not done as dyno time is expensive, it is sometime also parts of the map where its hard to get into on a dyno.

Not really sue of what you are asking: You can put more than 1 device on the same bus as long as the bit rate is the same, so 2 devices on CAN1. If the 2 devices have different bit rates then they will have to be on different busses i.e. CAN1 & CAN2

Your boost controller and display will work fine on 1 bus as long as they use the same Bit Rate, and only 1 is terminated (the one furthest away from the ECU)

Your battery voltage is only 9v while cranking. You have over 5ms of injection pulse while trying to crank, on 1000cc's I would expect that to be closer to 2-3ms almost certainly flooded the engine while having too much fuel and limited spark. Are you sure your injector dead times are correct for them new injectors ? Sort your battery voltage out and check the dead-times, remove the fuel pump relay, turn the engine over and adjust the master fuel until the pulse is around 2.5ms and go from there.

Glad to help Tim

Is the Stepper IAC a 3, 4 or 6 wire ? 3 Wire IAC Valves use 2 Aux Outputs 4&5 Wire IAC Valves use 4 Aux Outputs. If you run out of outputs then the only 3 options for you are: If you have cams that give smooth idle and not too much electrical load then you can delete the IAC and you can use Idle Ignition Control, which works very well. Convert to a 2 wire IAC ( Ford EECIV Type) Or go for the Thunder.

Its a shame about the amount of people who fall in the MS3 trap, it seems good valve but isn't really a good product for anything other than a hobbyist, I have replaced about 5 in the last year because of various issues. I counted that you need 7 outputs (on my fingers) so excuse me if I missed one. The Xtreme has 8 ignition and 8 Injection outputs as well as 10 Aux Outputs, none of the outputs are preconfigured but they do have some constraints. Your best bet is to familiarise yourself with the software, the help file has all the wiring diagrams and information about the outputs you need. You can download the software here: http://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/ I have attached a picture of the config from the sample map.

The Ford EDIS system which the WRC 36-1 was based off ran the missing tooth 90 degreed BTDC, and the original Cosworth Phase which occurred 45 degrees ATDC, the cam pulse should be in-between any of the crank pulses. In practice it does not really need to be spot on as you will set the trigger offset with a light as a part of the ECU setup.

This can happen if the mixture is very rich or the sensor is failing, remove the lambda from the exhaust check the sensor for fouling and see if its the same in free air. Try and new sensor.

The Cosworth 'WRC' has a 36-1 crank and a 2 pulse Cam, the Ford Duratec VCT works perfectly for this setup. If you have machined of a tooth from the original distributor or the aftermarket cam trigger on the back of the inlet cam then you will have to set ip up manually: Trigger Setup - Multi tooth Missing Trigger 1 - Tooth Count 36 = Missing Teeth = 1 Trigger 2 - Sync Mode = Cam Pulse x1

You have to hit enter after changing them