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  1. PiK

    Link G3 internal MAP sensor broken?

    Just to update- with the new MPX5700AP in place, the MAP readings are now correct. Looking back over logs I can see that the original sensor had drifted to +10 a couple of months earlier, and had reached +16 by the time I replaced it last week. Thanks once again.
  2. PiK

    Link G3 internal MAP sensor broken?

    Poo. I've now ordered a new MPX5700AP which hopefully will fix it, and will compensate with +14kPa on alllll of the settings for the next few weeks until it arrives. Thanks, Scott.
  3. I've been on-road tuning my fuel maps, got them all very close, then all of the mixtures seemed to go way out again. Turns out that over the course of a week or so my MAP sensor has gone bung -- Key on engine off I'm showing good BAP values of around 100kPa but MAP value is about 15kPa higher than it should be (and of course it's also reading about 15kPa higher than it should right across the vacuum/boost range). <picture attached> Of course I can't fix it with a recalibration when it's so far out. My Link G3 has an internal MAP sensor, I've pulled its vacuum hose from the manifold and had it open to the atmosphere and it reads about +14kPa. I've blown into and sucked from the vacuum line and the MAP reading changes as expected but settles back at about +14kPa. I've confirmed that my MAP Sensor Type is unchanged at "Link 7 Bar". Other than re-tuning everything at bogus "real map +14kPa" values and resetting all limits etc. to compensate for the extra 14kPa, what can I do now?
  4. PiK

    Firmware upgrade - to do it or not?

    Soooo... I grew some balls and went for it, and everything looks good. Thanks for your help, Scott. For reference if anyone finds this thread later: * the 1.9.2 download linked above isn't the flasher itself but an installer for the flasher. It displays a very comprehensive change log during installation. Read it. * there were significant changes right after firmware version 1.5.1, rolling back would not be a good idea. * the "minus 50 degrees" bug has been fixed- if you have any switch logic which uses ECT then you will have to modify values after upgrading. * QuickTune works (but only on Fuel Table 1, not necessarily the active fuel table!). I would definitely recommend applying the firmware upgrade (and allowing just a little bit of time to check and test everything afterward, but it shouldn't take long) to anybody who hasn't yet done so.
  5. PiK

    Outputs, more choice. 3D shift light

    I have one of the Auxiliary Output channels on my G3 configured very much like that. GP Output, Condition1=ECT<, value=71, Condition2=RPM>, value=3100, Condition3=RPM>, value=5800, SwitchLogic="Cond(1 AND 2) OR 3". Shift light comes on really early when the engine is cold. I haven't seen the G4 software but I'm sure it can do the same or similar.
  6. PiK

    G3 help getting it to work properly!

    Have a look in the "Analog Channel" section and see what you have configured there for "An Temp 2". It's a temperature channel, not for O2 sensors. If that message is from something other than your O2 sensor then you may also need to open "Runtime Displays"->"Setup graphics..." and set the min/max/warnings for the An Temp 2 channel in the Analog Inputs section. Now, the G3 can use a narrowband O2 sensor for Closed Loop Lambda, or a wideband (with external controller!) for QuickTune, and it can log data from either or both. Either one needs to be connected to one of the An Volt 1 or 2 inputs (white wire, or white/orange wire). For a wideband, wire up the sensor and the controller (eg. an AEM or Innovate AFR gauge), and send its 0-5V output to the ECU. Configure it as "WB #1(via Ext Controller)", and Bob's your aunty. For a narrowband, send its output wire straight to An Volt 1 at the ECU and configure it as "Voltage 0-5V". Go to "Closed Loop Lambda" in the Fuel menus and go for it. Don't forget to power the narrowband sensor's internal heater- you can use one of the Auxiliary Outputs to control it. Hope that helped.
  7. PiK

    Firmware upgrade - to do it or not?

    Aha! Thanks very much, Scott. Going by that, I'm guessing that my software supports QuickTune but my firmware doesn't quite I'd also bet that it would fix the craziness that happens when I enable TPS-based accel enrichment (+250% fuel at idle with 0% throttle!) Because I'm overly cautious, I'd REALLY like to be able to flash back to 1.5.1 should anything odd happen - any chance of getting a copy of the 1.5.1 installer?
  8. Hi, all. I bought a GF8 WRX about six months ago with a Link G3 ECU installed (firmware version 1.5.1). The setup (both electrical and programming) was a complete mess when I got it but gradually I've been working my way through it all. Now I've got it almost sorted, and I'm using almost all of the features available to me and working around certain electrical and software bugs (eg. I've had to set up a completely custom ECT calibration table and also manually compensate -50C on ECT-driven Aux Output logic). I have a wideband sensor and controller, 0-5V output going into the Link ECU (on the "AN Volt 1" channel) .. the ECU picks it up and logs it properly, no problems there. But I'd like to use QuickTune and I can't. The two symptoms are: (a) even though I've fixed the weird default values in my "AFR Targets" table (so I have X=RPM 0-7500 in steps of 500, and Y=Engine Load 0-200 in steps of 20) and filled in the table, it never tracks off the top row (0 load) no matter what the actual MAP/MGP/TP is, and (b) when I try to QuickTune, it follows the Actual AFR just fine but there's no Target AFR. If I attempt to tune, an "Oxy target undefined" message is shown. I did manage to find a link for firmware v1.9.2 in this thread: http://forums.linkecu.com/index.php?/topic/5362-how-to-update-firmware/ So, my questions (for today, at least *grin*) are: 1. Is this QuickTune issue a problem with the 1.5.1 firmware, which would be solved by upgrading to 1.9.2 firmware? Or is it something else, which I can resolve to be able to use QuickTune? 2. Does firmware 1.9.2 have a full changelog from 1.5.1 so that I can check over -everything- and make sure all is as it's supposed to be? 3. Will I be able to flash back to 1.5.1 if anything strange turns up? If so, where can I get a 1.5.1 firmware download?