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JayGow last won the day on May 25 2017

JayGow had the most liked content!

About JayGow

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  1. Start shift mode: gear barrel position. End shift mode: time I can't see any reason why it wouldn't work for auto gear shift
  2. Trying to set up gear shift torque control for an automatic transmission (when manually shifting) using the factory gear position sensor. Does the voltage need to "increase" for an upshift and "decrease" for a downshift as stated under "Start Shift Validation Time" in the Help menu. My sensor works the opposite way (lower voltage = higher gear)
  3. Don't think time makes any difference. I have switched my car off, plugged in laptop, turn ignition on and log time is 0.00.
  4. Sorry Simon. Have done a few logs since and found that it is working ok. Was by sheer coincidence that in both logs coolant emp was almost the same at start up, so post start timed out with the last logged value 2.x%, and warm up came on with a value of 5.x%. On very cold start this morning it seemed to switch over fine. Still having that issue with ecu not logging sometimes though. Seems to happen mostly after I modify the tune (which is when I really need it to log most), but not every time. Sometimes will miss the first run, other times the first 3 runs. Go to download the log and there's no log file to download. Update didn't fix it.
  5. Just noticed since I updated today (Fury) that Post Start Enrichment is timing out to zero enrichment before Warm Up Enrichment becomes active.
  6. I have been running shift solenoid control for a while now (BTR 4 speed), with torque limiting during shifts as I don't bother with line pressure solenoid control. Works great! Obviously factory style automatic shifts would be a challenge to set up and time consuming, but setup for full manual control is simple enough.
  7. True, but most cars don't idle at 75kpa map. I will definitely try your suggestions. Thanks for your input Ducie54. Much appreciated.
  8. I like this idea! I'll try that. I have tried using map for y axis, but didn't seem to be of any benifit. I still think a setting to subtract the neutral step would be the way to go. Trying to pull idle down with ignition while idle solenoid is bypassing a heap of air is a bandaid solution really. Hopefully the tech's at Link will consider this. And prevent adding steps when conditions are repeated, eg power steer inputs and P-R-N-D. That would be great.
  9. Won't let me due to file size limit. I have the table set up like you said. Values above zero are the same as you suggested. Values below zero: -50=18, -100=15, -150=13, -200=11, -300=10.
  10. Cheers for the input guys. Both good suggestions. Maybe this post should have gone in the G4+ section of the forum, lol. But I guess it's still relevant here too. Here is the log with new idle settings. Can't upload map due to file size limit, but apart from idle settings it's the same as the above map. A rundown on what I tried: Reduced solenoid frequency to 120Hz; seemed to make it more responsive, but still needs around 20% neutral step for a smooth transition into gear. The downside is now that the solenoid response is faster, the jump in steps when shifting from park, through reverse and neutral, into drive gives a pretty big shunt into gear if not done fast enough. Smoothing the idle ignition; did give a smoother idle and force CL solenoid control to react faster, but needed a few degrees more step between cells to stop idle rolling. Tried to settle it with gains, but then it took too long to target idle. Best settings seemed to be D=3, P=5. Reduction values 10,11,13,15,18,'22'. Without pulling a huge amount of timing, it does flair up a fair bit and take a while to come back down when shifting back to neutral. Definitely need a way to instantly reduce step. That seems to be my only real fix (besides tapping the throttle). ECU Log 2018-06-6 7;52;16 pm.llg
  11. I'll try that, with solenoid frequency reduced and report back
  12. Will try lowering the frequency. Didn't think of that, thanks. My engine setup is a bit unique, lol. It has taken me a while to figure out what it likes as it is so far away from the factory configuration. I think the large amount of neutral step required might be due to having to pull against supercharger vacuum. Also there is probably not enough vacuum to keep the supercharger bypass open (I've been meaning to check that). I'm running a fairly long duration camshaft in it too. Just a flag to drop DC back down the way tapping the throttle does would probably be enough. That works perfect. It's just not practical to have to tap the throttle every time I shift into neutral.
  13. Idle log and map attached. ECU Log 2018-06-6 4;20;21 pm.llg FURY2_001.pclr
  14. Couple of things I've found today regarding this topic. (Turned power steer step off as it was shitting me. Barely notice the load anyway). Note: Normal idle is around 24%DC, in gear is around 46%DC. Max clamp is 55%. With neutral/park step set to 22%: Idling in neutral DC=24.6%. Shifting into gear jumps to 46.6%. (No other adders/steps active, base position 23%). To me that's getting up near 100% step? Then shifting from drive to reverse or vise versa (so seeing neutral for maybe 300ms max), DC jumps to max clamp of 55%. Shifting back from drive into neutral DC gradually reduces, so ignition control is needed to pull idle down until IAC catches up. This takes around 20 seconds with derivative and proportional gains max'd out. But......if I tap the throttle after shifting into neutral, DC instantly drops back to 29% (which is where DC jumps to if I tap the throttle while idling in neutral). I have logs and tune files to go with this if required. I would really like to get idle control sorted as this is a daily driven street car, which I also race hillclimb. It's the only real issue I have with the Link ECU. Conditional 4D lambda target modifier would be nice for lean cruise, but not essential. Cheers. Jay.
  15. I have this problem with my fury. Seems to be mostly after I have changed something in the tune, which is the worst time because that's when you need it most. Will work fine for weeks, then change something in the tune, drive the car, and go to pull the log and it says 0:00 duration. Sunday I was racing all day, total logged time at the end of the day was 17min, lol. Should be 27min. Drove the car 2 hrs to the track. Where did that go? Today I was tuning idle, and logging on laptop. Parameters showed ECU logging status "logging" ECU logging memory use "100%". Go to upload the log and duration says 0:00.
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