JayGow

Happy to help.
Another suggestion is to use an auxiliary/fuel/ignition output to trigger a fix amount of air bleed using a solenoid. Then use a timer on this output. So when you shift though the gears the neutral step is not added as its no longer required or only now very small.
You could then use the 3d idle ignition for the power steering idle up. 

All idle up steps are adders.  So 22% + 24.6% = 46.6%.  It seems crazy that you need 22% neutral step, something like 4% is what I more commonly see.  If you are still using the Ford iac valve then they have big heavy spools in them so dont like any more than about 120Hz, this might be why you are seeing odd response.  It may be that doubling your DC barely effects airflow until you get to a certain point where all of a sudden the valve decides to open a big wack.  Can you try lowering your Aux 1 frequency to 120Hz to see if it improves behaviour?
You are right about the power steering and neutral steps if regularly activated will just keep adding on top of each other so we really do need some other settings that can take care of that but usually the CL looks after it well enough.

Couple of things I've found today regarding this topic. (Turned power steer step off as it was shitting me. Barely notice the load anyway).
Note: Normal idle is around 24%DC, in gear is around 46%DC.       Max clamp is 55%.
With neutral/park step set to 22%:  Idling in neutral DC=24.6%.  Shifting into gear jumps to 46.6%.  (No other adders/steps active, base position 23%). To me that's getting up near 100% step?    Then shifting from drive to reverse or vise versa (so seeing neutral for maybe 300ms max), DC jumps to max clamp of 55%.
Shifting back from drive into neutral DC gradually reduces, so ignition control is needed to pull idle down until IAC catches up. This takes around 20 seconds with derivative and proportional gains max'd out.     But......if I tap the throttle after shifting into neutral, DC instantly drops back to 29% (which is where DC jumps to if I tap the throttle while idling in neutral).
I have logs and tune files to go with this if required.  
I would really like to get idle control sorted as this is a daily driven street car, which I also race hillclimb. It's the only real issue I have with the Link ECU. Conditional 4D lambda target modifier would be nice for lean cruise, but not essential. 
Cheers. Jay.

try cutting "Accel hold" in half

My experience with water methanol injection.
Mine is a different engine setup, but a good example of an effective system.
For high compression boosted engines that need to run on regular pump fuel, water meth injection is definitely worth the effort in my opinion.
I am running a positive displacement supercharger pushing 15psi into a stock 4.0L inline six on pump 98 fuel, no intercooler.
I use it for both knock suppression and intercooling.
I can't say what the hp/torque difference is with water meth, as I loose so much I have never bothered to find out. 
Without the water meth operating I have to halve boost, add fuel and pull close to 5 degrees of timing out, and still get knock if I try to push it. (Intake temps climb at an alarming rate too which makes it worse).
The Link ecu can be used to control the whole system, with failsafes, and allows you to be very imaginative with your setup.
I use a 3D DC table to pulse a high speed solenoid like an injector which allows me full control over when the system becomes active and how much is injected. 4D fuel and ignition maps are also enabled when the system is active.
I also have a pressure sensor hooked up to monitor system pressure and enable failsafes if there is a problem. 
The pump is also switched on by the ecu and only active when required. This is much better than PWM pump control which most systems use because full pump pressure means better atomization. Recirculating bypass pumps are best.
I'm looking at upgrading my setup soon, using a fuel injector for even better control.
 
 
 

Giving this one another bump to see if it could be improved.
It's one area I would like to see improved as I am a big fan of the Link product but am finding it is lagging behind the competition.
 
The AEM Infinity can log at 1000hz and the Haltech Elite can even do 200hz.
Both also do logging to an external usb drive.
 
With modern ecus doing more than just running the engine having quality logging is becoming a very important factor when considering an ecu.

Hi Hexdmy,
what you are referring to I have a work around that most people use.
I use the Idle Ignition Table to overcome these issues.
With setting up the base throttle blade air gap and base chosen idle timing,i adjust my setup to the point of being able to totally do away with idle controllers completely.
There are many different processes to this but it is very simple.
I tune a lot of twin turbo Big Bloch Chev Race boats, these things run approx. 6" Hg at idle,
Through my setup process without any idle speed controllers, we can start these engines dead cold and have beautiful ide and pull the trans into low or second gear, (HIGHLY MODIFIED TURBO 400'S converted to 2 speed, NO TORQUE CONVERTORS, Just a direct drive plate setup.
Without any RPM change indicated by the MoTeC DASH or by feel or ear.
However your suggestions are fine, but sometimes these types of requests will not be prioritised due to the low volume of requests.
However all requests are governed by LINK themselves.
Regards
Dave.