Adzn3k

I will get a pic when I'm home

Bar dropping the engine to take the timing covers off I have checked everything I can and it all looks as it should the only thing I am thinking it could be is if I have the crank trigger wheel on back to front? As you can see in this picture it would put the missing tooth in a different place and possibly cause this issue??

It's a 2az fe in a celica gt4

just jumping on this thread to see if you got anywhere with it? my engine conversion can run a newer higher output unit but it needs an RLO wire added but need to workout whats needed

Hi people, In my engine swap the alternator is dying a slow death and I'm looking to upgrade. My particular toyota engine came with 2 types of alternator in its time a 3 pin and later in a 4 pin higher output unit. I currently have the 3 pin and I'm looking to change to the 4 pin version, my issue is what do I do with the extra "field" wire? I'm struggling to find any solid info online as to what to do with it, some places say to just ground it out and others say it needs to be connected to the ecu. Is there anyone that can point me in the right direction? Cheers

Yes everything it's as per the manual except I can't confirm the crank trigger wheel

So I've been looking in to possible solutions to this cam timing being too close. For me to flip the crank trigger wheel I woukd need to drop my engine and at the moment I don't have that facility so I have been thinking would I be able to grind 2 of the timing marks off the cam to make it just 1 out of 4 instead of 3 out of 4?

Right I've been doing some investigation, I was told that the vvti should unlock when oil pressure is applied to it so I ran the car up turned the output to test for the vvti and immediately the car miss fired and cut out. So to me that would suggest the vvti gear isn't locked I tried again whilst logging and it cut out so there is must l definitely be movement in the vvti gear. I have a feeling that maybe the trigger wheel is on backwards on the crank that could be causing this issue With the retarded cam signal? I'm going to test this theory out a little bit later when the local traffic has calmed down by disabling the vvti all together and see what happens I'll add a link to the log of it cutting out when testing the vvti shortly

I've double checked the cam timing and it's all bang on

Oh OK, I'm going to sort this out this weekend hopefully

Well I have just changed out the crank sensor out for a new more expensive Item and the trigger error is still there I really think its a settings issue the intake cam being locked retarded can't be the cause of this issue surely

All being well I'll be able to have a look at the sprocket and timing this weekend and have a good vvti sprocket ready to go in if needed. I do however think that the trigger error is More to do with the sensor as it only seems to happen when just as the engine either increases speed or slows down. I have a new sensor coming this week too

I will have a look, it's pretty tight in the bay so will have to see what I can do without dropping the engine, I do have 2 spare cylinder heads with cams so if needed and if I can get the cams out without dropping the engine I will probably look at putting in the new cams with a newer vvti sprocket from the spare head

Could this potentially be down to the vvti not being set up yet? I will investigate this when I have some spare time during the daytime

The timing was correct as per the instructions as its marked on the timing chain. I will check to see if the gear is locked on the weekend. I do have a set of BC cams to go in so may just set about installing them.

I did a trigger scope today on idle. these trigger errors are getting pretty bad they seem to be worse on light throttle Trigger Scope Log 2021-11-24 5;53;33 pm.llg and here is a log of it playing up: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3e37yo8e3mr24v4/Log 2021-11-24 5%3B58%3B40 pm.llg?dl=0

OK I'll get one tomorrow when I go out in it after work. Cheers

I was looking at a log and I think it might of been from the to main seeing over the error value I assume that could have caused it The problem with that trigger error I have tried many times to capture it but i can't replicate it when I'm setup to check

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rshcwg38wounz69/cut out.llg?dl=0 I went out in the car earlier and once the car was warmed up the trigger error seemed to disappear, maybe the new sensor doesn't like the cold? other that the car drives fantastic now idles great and no cutting out when coming to a stop or off the throttle. One last thing is it correct that if I hit boost cut the ecu will cut the dbw? on my drive earlier the wastegate's boost reference pipe wasn't by mistake connected so the car hit boost cut and the the ecu turned off the dbw relay.

I've just been out and wired the speed sensor up then fired it up to go for a little drive but it randomly cut out it seems to be a trigger error. This trigger error has been showing up since the beginning causing a couple of errors at low revs and it showing the revs jumping up on the datalog. I've tried to capture it on the scope but it never happens when I try to replicate it. The cam and crank sensors were new when I built the engine and also the wiring is correct I'm assuming its something to do with the arming threshold maybe? **EDIT WRONG LINK*** thats a log of it happening

Cheers for that, I didn't think about the wheels speed sensor as the clocks on the dash work I'll sort that out today and try this new map out then report back, Thanks for the help

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qhwazaru0thq3ax/back from allignment.llg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/j45ha50b1qjt5nk/alignment run out.llg?dl=0 Hopefully that works, the back from alignment shows pretty much it cutting out then when firing back up it revving high for a second or so the second one is a much longer log that shows it happening a few times but i did spend alot of time keeping my foot on the throttle to keep it alive.

hi people, I'm in need of a little help, i have installed an 2azfe turbo in to my celica gt4 using a fury g4+ I used the fury basemap and changed all the settings to suit the 2az and the dbw setup I'm using. I runs great and is driving fine however it cuts out when coming to a stop of coming off throttle, then when it is started back up it revs up of a second or so then drops down to normal idle. I've done a log (attached) from taking the car to be aligned the only way to keep the car running is to keep my foot slightly on the throttle. any body care to have a look so i can get some run in miles in before getting it to the dyno. FEW FEWEL TWEEEEKZ.pclr the log file is too big to upload here unfortunately can email if needed, i'll try get a smaller log

Hi guys just trying to confirm if this toyota pedal's pinout is the same as the nissan one in the link help file?

Thanks that clears things up