Adzn3k

Do you have a copy of that wiring diagram mate?

It's mainly to bin the stock setup

Bump on this,

How doo, With all the work I've done to my gt4 using a link ecu it's got me thinking about sorting my wife's mustang out its got a couple of electrical gremlins and I know if it was on a link I'd have a much better time sorting them gaga. So has anyone done it? Fit a g4 to a 2006 ford mustang v8 3valve auto

I was thinking of using this ssr: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172960873291

Yeah I could do that but I don't want to. I want to control the fuel pump speed via pwm

Hi guys I recently fitted a fuel pressure sensor and I'm seeing a differential pressure drop when on boost. As soon as the car sees positive boost the differential pressure starts to drop progressively and at 0.8 bar its showing a drop of 1.5bar. I'm still on the stock fuel pump wiring which has a resistor pack, the cars running a walbro 225, a dwr1000 fpr and id1000 injectors. I have a feeling the stock wiring setup is what's causing me the issue. I'm looking at changing the walbro 225 out for a 450 and then making my own wiring and control the new pump via pwm and an ssr I've searched and found this wiring diagram: After reading the threads it seems that the jury was still out of the above diagram is the way to go.

How doo, I'm going to be using this sensor as an oil temp sensor: https://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?productID=125 Does anyone have any pointers on dialing it in to my st205 plug in ecu Thanks in advance

Cheers

Any more info on setting this up? The st205 has an electric speedo drive

Scratch that I'll just pin a new switch in

Would I be able to use the ac request switch as the ac has been deleted?

So if I put a switch in the 12v to the relay for the pump and when it's off the gp output won't be active so it won't run the higher boost?

Hi people. Sorry in advance if this comes across as mad gibberish. So I want my link to control my water methanol injection setup. I've a low amp draw solenoid that can be controlled without the need for a relay. My thinking is have the ecu fire up the pump at a set boost say 0.8 bar then the ecu fire the solenoid at 0.9bar increasing in duty as the boost goes up. Im thinking if I have a switch that will tell the link the wmi is active and will run the high boost. Any ideas in ways I can accomplish this?

Hi guys, Just a quick one is it possible to have the link plug in g4+ control the speedo on a celica st205. The reason I ask is a mate of mine has an erratic speedo and we got talking about having the link control it as its already controlling the rev counter. Cheers.

Only just managed to get round to checking all this and swapping the pins round did the trick Thanks for all the input people I now need cure a fuel leak haha

I got my car back last night I will have a look at this after work today

So I bought another icv from a different car that had no idle issues and it's still the same as the one on the car, it naturally sits half open and closes for a split second when the signal is put to ground. My cars not here to test it but I'm expecting the same outcome which will be high idle

so i've been out done exactly as you put in your example and 100% the valve is fully open and no matter how low you put the duty cycle it does not close. There is a slight amount of adjustment by undoing 2 bolts and twisting it but it still doesn't fully close. I'm completely baffled with it as it would close for a split second when i tested it on the bench when i tapped the signal to negative.

OK thanks I'll give it a go tomorrow and report back

Hi guys, I'm have real issues getting my Idle below 1300 on my celica gt4 st205 with caldina intake manifold and throttle body. It's a 3 pin iscv, I have it wired correctly Pin 1 (top) = signal Pin 2 (middle) = 12v Pin 3 (bottom) = ground When plugged in and tested it buzzes and even effects the idle but even with the duty set as low as 10 it will not drop the idle below 1300 when up to temp. If I unplug it, the idle is 1300 when up to temp. I have had it on the bench and it looks like the valve naturally sits half open with no power. If the 12v and ground is connected it still sits half open, if I tap the signal to ground it closes for a split second then opens again even if the signal stays on ground so it needs to be repeatedly tapped for it to close again. Am I right in thinking if the duty cycle was turned right up to 80%+ would this reduce the idle or am I barking up the wrong tree? I really need to figure this out, it's not just my car either I know of 2 other guys in the same boat as me

Hi Adam, I've just been out to investigate and I've worked it out, it turns out that the link is wired to take the IAT from the sensor that goes in to the factory air box not the one in the intake manifold. i have recently tidied up my loom and removed the stock sensor that is fitted to the factory airbox so when i plugged it all back in it caused me to have the issue i originally posted about. The sensor in the intake manifold is wired to ANtemp 3. The sensor in the factory airbox is wired to ANtemp 2. So if these settings are not changed by the installer or tuner potentially they are mapping to IATs that are before the intercooler. Which is what happened when my car was originally mapped and could have been very bad if I'd not come across this problem when i upgraded to the quicker sensor and binned the one in the airbox.

Hi guys, I'm not sure what i'm doing wrong here but I've bought an ntc sensor like this one: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/sensor-p-115.html?osCsid=47f9a41f3c94d0a670a4ca5a81d7edaf i've wired it up in place of the OEM sensor but i'm getting an intake temp of -40 I've selected the std bosch ntc table in the settings. any hint?

Hi guys, I'm fitting a Bosch 2 pin knock sensor in place of the oem single pin one. On have all the correct shielded wire but looking for info on wringing up, am I correct in thinking I only use 1 of the pins for the signal wire and the other is grounded like the shield? Any info greatly appreciated

Hi guys, I've ready got an oil temperature sensor installed from my previous gauge is it possible to wire this in to my link ecu? The sensor type is a 2 wire one from a stepper gauge?