Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 007

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. After everything's been installed, there's hardly any room to fit even a pinky finger around the ECU. So I'll try to completely wrap it in heat reflective tape and have a tiny opening facing the firewall. I don't think a diagonal sheet will do much good once the hot air from the fan diffuses everywhere in the engine bay. Summer temps here nudge 50*C. Thanks for the confirmation Simon. I must compliment you guys on this ECU. Even above 80*C, it handled itself like a champ. I had previously installed a Haltech Elite 1500 in a similar position, and that thing would start going into limp mode the moment internal temps crossed 60. I was finally forced to relocate it inside.
  2. Thank you for your response. To your points: The engine isn't self idling. The ECU isn't powering down. It isn't a sticky relay.I triple checked, and once when this was going on, pulled the relay clean off and the ECU still wouldn't power down. Pretty much impossible because the line that goes to the ECU's ignition signal pin is the only thing aforementioned relay controls. The low power side is wired to the ignition key, and the high power side to the ECU and nothing else. When I turn off the key, everything else in the the car that is on ignition power goes dark, except the ECU. Also, when this happens, the Runtime Value for Ignition Signal remains ON. I've wired up the Main Relay controls, and everything on the engine draws power from one of three relays that are controlled by the ECU's Main Relay Out. If this was something to do with flywheeling diodes, this would happen all the time. Every single time this has happened has been after a crawl through traffic. I wasn't able to log unfortunately, but I was keeping an eye on ECU internal temperature while a friend was driving through some pretty thick traffic after a long drive. There was no headwind to evacuate the engine bay, and the radiator fan venting all the hot air inside the engine bay drove up the ECU temp to a really alarming 85*C by the time we reached home, and I rushed out and pulled the C connector to kill the engine, which is what I always do when the ECU fails to shut down. This was the point when I decided to Thermaflect sleeve the ECU to prevent it from heating up. If that does not work, cabin mount is the only thing left to do. I really hope it doesn't come to that.
  3. Hello. I've been running a Thunder on a build I did recently. This ECU is installed in the engine bay like shown in the attached image. For the most part, the ECU doesn't seem to mind this at all but I did notice one glitch that would repeat consistently after some crawling through traffic. The ECU would not recognize the ignition key being turned off and would continue to idle the engine even after the key was removed. This doesn't happen when the engine bay is relatively cool. I haven't been able to identify the exact threshold past which this takes place, but I'd guess around 70*C ECU temperature. Any ideas why this might be the case? On to the second question, I plan to do something about keeping the ECU cool. While the obvious solution is to move the entire unit inside the car, that's something I'm considering as a last resort option. The current idea is to get a Thermaflect sleeve and wrap the ECU in it. That should prevent direct blasts from the radiator fan which is what seems to be sending ECU temperatures to 80*C and above. What I'm not sure about, however, is how this will affect the ECU's ability to dissipate its own generated heat. Can somebody from Link chime in to and let me know whether or not this is a good idea?
  4. 007

    Odo tick in User Defined CAN

    Hey Adam. The ABS module provides individual wheel speeds in a 8 byte frame. However, the speed displayed on the gauge and the odo tick information comes from the ECU utilizing input from the vehicle speed sensor mounted on the gearbox. I understand that it will take a lot of generic CAN functions to cover all possible OEM strategies, but in the meanwhile, would it not be possible to add a wheel revolution counter for either one or all four wheels, similar to the engine revolution counter that is already available? I feel that is a generic enough function for this purpose. I would really appreciate it if you could add this in. It is the only fly in an otherwise perfect ointment. Good to know that you are working on a plugin solution for this platform. I have reverse engineered a fair bit of the CAN structure to drive the gauge cluster, and would be happy to share that information if that will be of any help to you.
  5. Hi. I'm going to be building a FD2 Civic with a K24 engine and a Link G4+ Thunder. I plan to drive the gauge cluster using the User Defined CAN feature. I've managed to figure out everything except a tiny detail related to the digital odometer. Honda sends an "odo tick" once every 10 meters to the cluster. This is a 1 byte value that counts up every tick and cycles back to 0 after 255 and repeats. Every 10 ticks, the cluster increments the odo by 0.1. I've searched all the available data items to send in a CAN frame and haven't found a speedo pulse count or anything I could use to enable this feature. I see only speedo out (status), but that won't do. See the attached graphical representation of the CAN data. Am I missing something here? If not, could this feature be added in a future firmware update? Thanks in advance.
  6. 007

    Honda RACV control problem

    Solved! Again, it was the default settings that did me in. The max and min clamps in the IACV settings were holding the commanded duty cycle back. The IACV works as I guessed before. Unpowered, the shutter is halfway open and that is where it returns to rest once any applied signal is removed. Grounding the IACVP pin rotates the shutter one way and grounding IACVN rotates it the other way. 50% duty cycle keeps the shutter at its default position. Anything above or below 50% either increases or decreases idle depending on how IACVP and IACVN are wired.
  7. 007

    Honda RACV control problem

    I believe this IACV requires a PWM ground signal on both pins besides the +12V pin to move the shutter in opposite directions. Let me try to scope the stock ECU's control signals versus the Link and revert.
  8. Hello Scott. I finally managed get my engine running smoothly with my G4 Xtreme, but there's still a fly in the ointment. I'm trying to use a 3 wire Honda RACV that looks like this: http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p254/bazwouterze/Honda Civic/DSC00876.jpg To do this, I set Aux Out 1 to ISC Sol Slave and Aux Out 2 to ISC Solenoid, with a frequency of 500 Hz. With Idle Control in Open loop, nothing that I enter in the Duty Cycle table has any effect. The engine idles really high like the RACV is fully open. I kept changing ISC Solenoid frequency all the way from 20 to 500 Hz, and nothing worked. Connected another RACV that I had lying around to see how the shutter behaved, and for frequencies above 20 Hz, I don't hear or feel the solenoid buzz like it should. Even when it clicks rapidly at 20 Hz, it is unable to control idle. I have a good mind to fix a 2 wire IACV there, but would really like to run the RACV. Any suggestions?
  9. -360 to +360 makes sense. Thanks Scott!
  10. Thank you Scott. I have another question about Trigger Offset. The label next to the box says Degrees BTDC and looking at the examples provided in the Help file as well as the numbers I've had to punch in, it expects a negative number. I think this is a bit confusing. Wouldn't a negative number BTDC logically mean ATDC? I get a Home pulse 130 crankshaft degrees before Cylinder 1 TDC, so wouldn't 130* BTDC in that box make more sense than -130* BTDC?
  11. Update: I managed to get it to work although I don't understand why this happened. The trigger wheel on the crank has 12 teeth. Having some experience with Haltech ECUs, I selected Crank in Multi-tooth Posn and entered Tooth Count 24 assuming it was for a complete engine cycle . Figured that I'd have to change that value to 12 because cranking RPM values seemed suspiciously low - around half of what I expected to see. Changed it to 12 and bam! Still, like I said, I don't understand why the previous setting didn't produce any spark whatsoever. Is there a minimum cranking speed somewhere that caused this?
  12. Hello. I just finished wiring up a Silver G4 Xtreme to my Honda D15, converted to COP using K24 ignition coils and verifying connectivity. Trigger 1 is a VR sensor reading an OE Honda CKF wheel mounted on the crank with 12 evenly spaced teeth. Trigger 2 is a Hall effect sensor that produces 1 pulse per engine cycle. Both triggers are being read by the ECU and I can see around 150 RPM displayed when I crank the engine. However, there is no spark while cranking. I tried to follow the trigger calibration procedure and locked timing to 10* but the timing light wouldn't come on. So I checked with an external spark plug and sure enough there was no spark. When I run ignition tests, every coil operates perfectly fine and there is spark. Am I missing something here? Attaching the calibration file for your reference. regards, Venkat G4 Xtreme D15B Sample.pcl
  • Create New...