Rossobianconero
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Posts posted by Rossobianconero
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Hi Mohamad, post a log on the street and your rom so we can have a look.
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On 5/20/2019 at 4:28 AM, dynoiasi said:
You turn the knife where it hurts
The problem with my build is that ridiculously I do not know exactly what turbo I am running 
All I know is that it is a T3/T4 hybrid with 60mm inducer and 50mm outlet size. I received it from someone I trusted (back then) when I started the build and he said it should be good for aroud 300hp. From then a lot of money flew into the build and I put together a pretty decent setup, however the capability of one of the main blocks (the turbocharger) is still not know to me.
Update on my work: I installed the new MAC boost controller and started tweaking it on the street. At 90% PWM it looks like I can build around 0.8bar at 6000RPM which is decent for my goals. I get a HUGE immediate overboost when accelerating around 3500-4000RPM even with 70% Wastegate DC. So I guess the turbo is quite small and flows well up to 4000 but then it looses its momentum.
So on the next tweaking session the plan is to try 100% wastegate DC in the high RPM zone and activate the closed loop boost control in order to keep the overoboost tendency in the low RPM's. Especially if I step off/on the throttle I get immediate boost cut (set at 1 bar).
I dont know what engine or specs are you running cause with that boost you could have 300hp, on some engines even more. If you have to much boost on the midrange you just need to adjust the WGDC map, you dont have to run let say 70-90% of WGDC you could run from 0 to 100 if you need it for your needs. Post a rom and log file to check it out.
Regards,
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0.5 spring pressure to 1.5 bar with solenoide sound about right... what turbo are you running in that engine?
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what boost is making on just the spring of the WG?
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I would sugest going to the dyno and work on your ignition map as there is to many variables to recomend you a specific ignition timing for your engine, the last 4efte engine that I tune on 97 ron pump gas had 25 degrees at one bar and 7.500rpm was a build engine so i dont remember the compresion or the work on the head but has a td04 turbo.
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On 3/25/2019 at 7:17 AM, gtihk said:
it is equivalent to 1.6 bar. It is not low boost, if it is pump fuel.
I can imagine that the power on this engine must be something.
I do not suppose you need to rev it high at all. May be around 6000 rpm tops?
the stock ej25 engines that I had tune, if they have bigger turbo than stock see power right until redline (around 7.000rpm).
it should have planty of power with that engine and turbo combo.
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On 3/24/2019 at 6:27 AM, M1tch said:
Thanks for that, yeah I grabbed the 350z table combined with one of the Toyota VVTi inlet target tables as well based on TP, just taken the car out for a drive and just checking the logs now. I noticed/could hear what I think is a bit of pinging on cruise at low load, fueling seems to be about right so might need to retard the ignition slightly.
if you here what could be detonation is better to drop not a few but a lot of degree lets say 5-7 to be sure that thats the cause or that is what you are hearing.
I have found that the same engine in different places like different lambdas (k20A engines), so I would say that play safe like Adamw recomend you and then on the dyno try leaing the fuelmap.
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just log the car and see if is close to the AFR target or too way off. I'm guessing is a NA engine so the chances of kill the engine for a little change in the lambda is low, post a log on your new setup and tell us a little bit about what engine are we talking about.
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post your rom to see if we found something odd, and a logger cranking aswell. If it had to much fuel to crank thats a easy fix.
Regards
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The help in the software can help you out with those ones. But there is a guy that post here on the forum another "formula" for the CCL configuration that apparently work very well I havent try it my self. But that's gonna depend if you have one of the big ecu of link, the CCL control you will only found it from the extreme up.
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On 2/12/2019 at 8:13 PM, Stevieturbo said:
With a bad tuner, they can be destroyed at less than standard power.
With a good tuner they can easily support more than a VF37 will make.
you will have no problem maxing out the VF37 with the stock engine, it can take that turbo no problem with a proper tune.
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i think is something around 104... but to be honest doesnt matter as alcohol cool everything they usually performe like higher octane fuels in some occations... you will not be octane limited to tune that car, we have 97ron pump gas here and I have tune 250whp 2.0 B series without problems reaching MBT, as the B series ussually you dont have really high CR as other engines (cause is very difficult to get more without modifien the combustion chamber on the head). 12 or 12.5 is ussually what you get from those engine and with massive cams to make the power you shouldnt run into problems with knock, be aware cause you never know but with methanol you are gonna be fine.
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I will keep toluene out of the equation as is not good for the engine in the long run...
I have tune many B series engine and you will probably reach MBT with RON 100, as I have reach MBT with 97 RON many times in many high rev 10.000rpm B series engine. methanol is not 135RON, but is a good fuel. You will have good result with that blend, but you will have more power with more methanol cause it has more O.
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1 hour ago, Alan SMR2u said:
Thank You CJ! Will try it out hopefully all goes well
How do i know what dwell times for the coils?
2.7ms is a good starting point.
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On 1/18/2019 at 5:32 PM, Henkw said:
I've found the problem,there was an issue with the igniter,put a new one on and it's running like dream.
thanks for the help Guys
it happen to all of us! I remember a couple of engine that give me problem and thas igniter module malfuntion, I prefer to run smart coils
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i dont really read plugs I watch to the wideband sensors...
but I would say lean...
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post your rom to try to see if something is missing
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On 1/9/2019 at 4:31 PM, Swift said:
Thanks mate. Here’s a wee link to how it goes. Few teething issues with an overrev on the upshift to iron out. Scuse the crap driving but it’s a fun little car for sure. https://youtu.be/KHhpfwuxL1M
what a fun race... you almost had it! you need 5-10 more hp!!!
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I always wanted one of those cars! great engine!
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if you ask me I would start with the rom of the plug and play option for the civic, I have use b16 roms on all 90' honda engine and they are always a good starting point, cause is such a simple engine anything would do the job. the Vtec killer with large cams is gonna be a pain in the us to drive on the street, but is gonna sound amazing when the cams match the engine at hight rpm. I would stay under 28° or even 26° at wot before going to the dyno to be safe.
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I have never work with that engine before but I'm guessing is like a EVO engine, in that cause we have 97RON fuel here and I have never reach MBT at that pressure with that fuel, I would need a meth/water injection or something else. But the dyno will tell the story, if running less timing make more power be careful cause it could mean you have knock with the old map that have more timing (I dont know if you are running any type of knock sensor on your setup), if it is a stock ecu sometimes I have found that running to much timing make the sensor pickup knock and retard the all ignition map and make the car actually slower that a ignition map with less timing and no knock.
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8 hours ago, Stower93 said:
Any ideas on where i should start looking for the fuel issue. I have since found that my injectors are 800cc not 850cc and the dead times are different. And should i be using a modelled fuel table instead of a traditional on?? Again im still learning about this.
Just seems strange i can get it idle comfortably now but as soon as there is throttle input, bye bye spark plugs.
sound like the accel enrichment is off, do the same as with the idle map, save the rom and then have a go with the accel enrichment, you can tune the part that you are taking about pretty much without touching the street or the dyno, and then go for a ride.
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you just need to tune your engine, any respetable tuner should do a good job on a NA build like yours. I have tune some BMW engines and if you ask me they normally run from 25-28 of advance at wot with everything tune (good fuel map). The base map is always safe so is normal that a final tune has more timing and normally less fuel aswell. If you are gonna tune the engine I would start with the base map not the one from the rally car. Tune the fuel map and then go to the dyno and tune the timing.
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I dont see lambda on your log, is the engine misfire at that rpm?
why you brake 2 rocker arms? cause if you dont know why it may happen again
The problem with my build is that ridiculously I do not know exactly what turbo I am running 
All I know is that it is a T3/T4 hybrid with 60mm inducer and 50mm outlet size. I received it from someone I trusted (back then) when I started the build and he said it should be good for aroud 300hp. From then a lot of money flew into the build and I put together a pretty decent setup, however the capability of one of the main blocks (the turbocharger) is still not know to me.
Turbo Upgrade, How to self adjust previous tune?
in Engine Tuning
Posted
yes it will need a retune, a safe way to start is to take out some timing and put more fuel everywhere on the boost area, is better to start rich that lean.