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MagicMike last won the day on July 19 2018

MagicMike had the most liked content!

About MagicMike

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  • Birthday 06/11/1980

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  1. Hi all, I have 2 questions. Context. I started my Z32 again last night after a few more modifications. Only let it idle up to temp to check leaks etc, and I heard a few changes in idle so I took a quick log file to have a look at. Reviewing the file a bit closer, and I see some rpm seemingly random flat spots on some parameters. RPM ROC will highlight them. Any ideas on what would cause this? 2ndly, it'd be great to get some ideas on what is causing the idle rpm change. Idle ignition comes in to play, but I can't pick what causes the rpm change in the first place to bring idle ignition in to it. tune https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApBSN3rrOxrRoxS6V-tH-t-abEgj log https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApBSN3rrOxrRoxWTZQZJkGJtWnIU Thanks muchly!
  2. MagicMike

    Fuel pump controller

    I use the SSR method to control 2 x 460/485 (whatever) pumps in my Z32. Works great.
  3. I have done as Adam has said, cover the slots with tape. Worked, but I wouldn't use it as a long term solution. Better solution is a replacement disk (like AEM). Even better is ditching the CAS for another sensor/trigger combo.
  4. FYI, looks like the release date is a year out
  5. .9V sounds like a bit drop
  6. If you plan on doing any road tuning, keep in mind you won't have a dash (speed/rpm etc) when you plug the laptop in for tuning.
  7. Or a laptop/mini pc, with a remote connected screen in the dash. this is what I have done.
  8. MagicMike

    PRI News

    A PCLink update!
  9. You'll need to setup wastegate tables with switch off and then again for switch on.
  10. It will go to large numbers when overrun fuel cut activates.
  11. MagicMike

    pc link setup exe

    Have you tried turning it off and then back on again?
  12. On the contrary, I have found the link help menu extremely useful, and able to work through most systems by reading up in there.
  13. Any other work done to the car while the ecu was not connected?
  14. There is a test procedure in the service manual that states the readings required. It looks somewhat 3 position like (empty/half/full). I have also seen posts stating that using the factory sender is troublesome, as the float moves around with sloshing. Somehow the factory circuit dampens this. Worth a try though. Worst case, there are plenty of aftermarket level sender kits you could use. In the end, I left the fuel gauge and the temp gauge working, and removed the tacho and speedo for a screen.
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