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MGV101

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MGV101 last won the day on May 18 2017

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  1. Finally got some time to work on the tune again. Managed to get the idle to be somewhat stable with 10 degree ignition and enabled idle ignition to further dial in the idle. As I was dialing in the idle ignition, it still felt like things would benefit with a slower igniton with 8.5 degree in the zero error cell. Throughout the day, I was struggling hard to keep the RPM with dipping and fluctuating for a few cycles before stablising after blipping the throttle or a warm startup. After spending some time with close loop idle control (which seem to have little effect) and also working on the fuel map, things seem to have improved a little. By the end of the day, the RPM would still dip by roughly 100 rpm and takes maybe 4-5 seconds to stablise again but was already much better than what I started with. There seems to a brief moment where the engine would run lean after lifting off the throttle but I can't seem to tune it out (I've checked and it's not overrun fuel cut). Not sure whether that is the cause of the rpm dip. Also to note on the A/F ratio is that the 0-5V signal coming from the AEM gauge seem to be a little off. When it's at stoich on the AEM gauge itself, the ECU is reading 1.05 lambda. It is not a grounding issue as the ECU and gauge share the same ground and I have read the voltage right at the connector of the gauge between the 0-5V signal and ground and the voltage given off is indeed slightly different from the calibration table given. It's not a big problem and I would deal with it by adjusting the calibration table later. (Damn, I missed the Link CAN Lambda on my own car). If I rise the idle RPM to around 1200, things were significantly but my friend (the owner of the car) seems to prefer a lower idle even if it sacrifice power. I am wondering how much cam timing would affect the idle quality. If it would help, I am thinking of advancing the exhaust cam by 2 degrees from its current position if it would help (the intake cams are too difficult to access with the engine still in the car). Attached is the latest map I cam up with so far and a log showing the oscillation on a warm start up and throttle blip. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dagL6I2eSxUJwja4YKddCcbGYx1dAw2U https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pMdI18ZQv1IT4mYq6pBPsVz-qQXhBRWn A big thank you for all the help I have received here so far!
  2. Thank you for all the feed back. Yep, seems like my attempts to "flatten" the base map had gone the completely opposite direction. Instead of lowering the ignition for 1500 rpm, I raised ignition for the lower rpm range to match with the higher rpm and made the matter worse. Following the suggestions here, I started the up the engine with around 15 degrees ignition across the board. It still fluctuated initially but after further flattening everything to 10 degrees (map1 attached), the idle stablised significantly (the last section in log1 attached). However, after shutting down and restarting the engine, the revs started bouncing again. After playing around with the ISC% and igniton timing again, idle seems to have settled down a little with ignition lowered all the way to around 7 degrees (map2 and log2). Also, after blipping the throttle, it takes awhile for the engine rpm to settle. Regardless, things seems to be on the right track and it probably just need more work from my end to make it better but I was already choking to death from the exhaust and had to call it a day. No exhaust was installed yet after the downpipe and I was standing right next to the engine (and down pipe) while updating the map breathing in all the exhaust. map1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1IaVah5A4vdlLyH5JfTU0La5ZAXwTz1y4 log1 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1F5teTRz1bkeCcFuiAugsOg4vFyMkF3JF map2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GJgUpzr4-_9pc9KzLwfxF7Bis5nZ9MTm log2 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EdA81ldKOtN2gkaN2j2tRC-8LZXLyyAn
  3. Finished building up a 3S-GTE engine for an MR2 but could not get it to idle properly below 1300rpm. Anything lower would gradually cause the rpm to fluctuate more and more the more I close up the ISC valve or idle adjustment screw and would eventually fluctuates to a stall. ISC is on open loop and I have went as far as plugging the ISC port up to control idle with the adjustment screw only so it is not the ISC settings that are causing the fluctuations. Aftermarket cams were installed on the car and degreed per manufacturer spec while building up the engine. These were Kelford 264 cams which isn't that aggressive. However, the final adjustment on the cam gears were a little worrisome as the adjustment were pretty must at the end of the adjustment scale on the exhaust gear with 11 degrees of retard but I did measure it two more times while building up the engine to make sure it is correct. I know aggressive cams will require a higher idle due to note being able to pull sufficient vacuum but 262 cams are far from aggressive and looking at my MAP readout, vacuum is pulling strong. I have another 3S-GTE engine with the same cam that idles just fine at 900 to 1000 rpm. Lambda looked stable enough to me and would be fine tuned once the idle problem is solved and I have already flattened the ignition map a little to make sure its fluctuation between the rpms isn't causing the problem. Right now, I am truly stuck on what's causing the crazy fluctuations in rpm and cannot progress any further with the tune. Attached is the latest map used and a log from startup where the rpm was stable and high until the engine warmed and the ISC valve started closing up and the fluctuations begins. Manually pushing the ISC% back up rises and stabilises the rpm. ECU map.pclr ECU log.llg
  4. Thank you Adam. I am actually using the 8V power source from the Fury ECU so the recommended resistor would be approximately 1.8K, its slightly closer but still pretty very far from 4.7K. This may explain why I never had the trigger error before though as I have only switched to a fury unit at the end of 2018. I was using a plug-in unit before which did not have a 8V output so I was using 12V instead which would give a closer recommended value of 2.4K. So to correct this, I'll have to turn off the pull up resistor on the ECU and wire in my own? So to correct this, I'll have to turn off the pull up resistor on the ECU and wire in my own? Edit: Oh, we actually discussed the pull up resistor before on 12V a long time ago and I almost forgot about it.
  5. Tried to replicate the problem today by free revving the engine but seems like it only happens under load and given I cannot drive the car outside, I cannot replicate it. For the trigger setup, it was an off the shelf kit specifically made for the MR2. The trigger wheel and the sensor were supplied by the same shop as a kit with a Cherry GS10701 sensor but specification of the trigger wheel did not exactly fall within the specs recommended by Cherry (http://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/7/2012/05/Datasheet_GS1005-GS1007_Letter_EN.pdf). The wheel itself is only a little over 3mm thick vs 6mm as recommended and tooth gap is approximately 5mm vs the recommended 10mm. However, when I looked at the trigger scope when installing the trigger setup for the first time, the signal looked clean (and it still does now) so I never thought much about it as everything worked. My trigger setup had actually been working trouble free for over a year. Could the sensor be failing? Here is a link to the kit I use but I've skipped the 1zz coil part using just the crank and cam sensor from the kir. http://racerxfabrication.com/mr2-celica/ignition/1zz-coil-on-plug If I were to change the hall sensor, is there any recommended alternative that I can use? Preferably in the same form factor so I could use the existing mounting. Also for the trigger scope, should I try running it at a higher RPM to see whether there is any degradation of signal when the frequency increase?
  6. To add a little backgroung information. This is a Gen 3 3SGTE engine on a MR2 managed by a Link G4+ Fury with the distributor replaced by a crank 36-1 crank sensor and a cam sensor with LS2 truck coils.
  7. I seem to be getting a lot of random ignition cut lately. I thought it was due to MAP limit being triggered from over boosting which was initially true but as boost was begin dialed in I was still getting ignition cut under hard acceleration. All this was happening at the track and it was difficult being the driver and tuner at the same time so it was overlooked and I simply continued to dial the boost down thinking I was just touching the MAP limit. Now that I have returned and have time to look at the logs in detail, I noted MAP was very much in check most of the time when the ignition cut occurred. Sadly, none of the Limit status was logged so I have no idea which limit was triggering the ignition cut but I do have Percentage ICut logged so I know for sure the sudden drop in power and loud pop coming from my exhaust was due to ignition cut. Attached are maps and logs from the second day of the track event (after addressing most of the overboosting issue) to help identify the problem. The first map was uploaded to the ECU in the morning where the ECU statistics had also been reset. The first log were pulled around noon after a couple runs at the track (somehow it only recorded one session). The second map was upload to the ECU right after pulling the first log with some minor updates to the PID boost control as I still thought it was the MAP limit causing problems and the second log were of the track sessions logged after loading the second map, closed loop lambda had also been disabled as all the pops and bangs from the ignition cut seemed to have killed my wideband. Looking at the logs you could see when ICut was being applied, MAP was nowhere near the 250kpa MAP limit or 235kpa after factoring in the 15kpa control range. Looking at the engine speed however, I've noted there were sometimes, a sudden spike in engine RPM when the ignition cut occurs. However, this only happens 1/4 of the time and seems to happen miliseconds after the ignition cut kicks in so I suppose it was the violent ignition cut itself throwing the RPM off rather than it being a cut due to RPM limit? Engine speed is being logged at 50hz, is it fast enough to catch all the rpm spikes that the ECU itself sees or could it be too slow? Other than the RPM and MAP limit trigging the igniton cut, I was unable to identify any other settings on the map which could cause the cut. Could anyone offer some help? Thank you! I would love to go on the street and test everything again now to diagnose the problem but sadly, due to the strict modification laws here in Hong Kong and the fact that its such a crowded city, there is no way I could drive my dedicated track car on the street without drawing attention and getting caught. Also, there are no race tracks in Hong Kong and the only option to hit the track is to travel up to mainland China which requires the application of a special one time permit (unless you are some one rich who can afford regular cross border license) so the opportunity of road testing the car at the track is really limited. Day 2-1.pclr Day 2-2af.pclr JITL Race 1.llg Below is the second log on google drive which I am unable to upload due to file restrictions: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Wnbves6DvJpBVGHoEAw0pVCqoVuJ9DGg
  8. Thanks! I was always under the impression that the injectors would always been injecting less fuel than the "straight line" curve given it takes time for the nozzle to fully open and that's why I found the base map strange. I am using ID850 so it was correct to use positive numbers then.
  9. Should the short pulse with adder values be in +ve or -ve? Previously I have used +ve numbers for the values but I am building up a new map today for a new ECU using the sample base map for my Fury and noted that all numbers are in negative. Tried looking at other base map too and noted they are also entered as -ve numbers. Does it mean logic of the G4+ actually adds the value entered into the tables to determine the effective pulse width and therefore -ve numbers should be entered for it to work properly? Meaning I have entered the wrong numbers into the pulse width adder all along?
  10. Yep, I know about the back feeding which would keep the ECU from powering down that is why the relay coils would be powered by the ignition key. Do note it is just the coil only so it will not be putting much load on the ignition key. I am mainly rewiring the engine/ECU harness only so there are only a few relays to be powered by the ignition key. A quick sketch below should explain things better. Basically, rather than supply power to the relay coils through the EFI relay, it gets its power from the ignition switch instead. The same way the EFI relay gets its power (I didn't draw any fuses in the quick sketch but they will be there).
  11. Looks like it is common practice to have a main EFI relay triggered by an ignition source power and have this relay supply power to the ECU and also supply power to the relay coils for other system such as igniton coils or fuel pump. Is it necessary for all other relays to be switched on my the main EFI relay? What is the difference between using the main EFI relay over the ignition key power? I am overhauling my whole electric system and is building a separate fuse box for the EFI system. I am using the bussmann 15303-2 fuse box where pin 86 on the relays are bussed together so in order to have a "main EFI relay" in the normal fashion, I will need to wire in another relay outside the fuse box in order to seperately supply a ignition signal to the main EFI relay and have the main EFI relay power the other relay coils through the bussed connection. I don't want to do this as I would like everything packaged neatly inside the fuse box. If the main EFI relay would be on and powering up the other relays when the ignition is switched on anyway (or at least providing +ve power to the coils so that they are powered up as soon as they are grounded) would it make any difference if I simply have the coils for all relays connected directly to the igniton power source? What is the reason for all other relays activated by the main EFI relay rather than the igniton key? I am deciding whether I should have the EFI relay also plugged into the fuse box with the bussed connection and power the bus with an ignition power source to switch on all relays. Thank you!
  12. Sorry, its been a long while. I've finally started to re-wire everything in my car and setup the PWM control at the same time. This is the solid state relay that I've ended up getting: http://hellahd.com/files/5113/4444/9719/H41773001 Data Sheet.pdf It's a Hella unit that looked extremely to the ones you get from NZ/Australia but seems like it is not designed for inductive loads. After doing some research on fly-back diodes, seems like a Schottky diode would work best for our application for its fast response. Looking at the specs, I think the diodes below should be sufficient for my purpose? Should the voltage rating of 120V be a concern as I've seen Adam recommending elsewhere the use of 1N4004 which are rated to 400V. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/V30120CI-M3-P?qs=F5EMLAvA7IDciT4dWs6BgQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/V40120CI-M3-P?qs=F5EMLAvA7IC2Rt1XtcaKGQ%3D%3D Thank you! Best regards, Jerry Ip
  13. MGV101

    Circuit opening relay

    I am rewiring my engine and building a custom loom for my MR2 with a Gen 3 3S-GTE engine and will be running it on a G4+ Fury. While studying the existing wiring, I noted the system uses a circuit opening relay for the fuel pump where there is a second coil to switch on power to the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. As I am deleting/replacing the whole fuse box along with the relay, will it work if I just use an ordinary relay for the fuel pump? The relay will be powered by an key-on power source with the coil grounded to the ECU fuel pump output. Will the G4+ switch on the relay during cranking to provide power to the fuel pump? Thank you!
  14. Well noted. Thank you Adam and everyone else for the reply.
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