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MGV101

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MGV101 last won the day on May 18 2017

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  1. Thank you Adam. I am actually using the 8V power source from the Fury ECU so the recommended resistor would be approximately 1.8K, its slightly closer but still pretty very far from 4.7K. This may explain why I never had the trigger error before though as I have only switched to a fury unit at the end of 2018. I was using a plug-in unit before which did not have a 8V output so I was using 12V instead which would give a closer recommended value of 2.4K. So to correct this, I'll have to turn off the pull up resistor on the ECU and wire in my own? So to correct this, I'll have to turn off the pull up resistor on the ECU and wire in my own? Edit: Oh, we actually discussed the pull up resistor before on 12V a long time ago and I almost forgot about it.
  2. Tried to replicate the problem today by free revving the engine but seems like it only happens under load and given I cannot drive the car outside, I cannot replicate it. For the trigger setup, it was an off the shelf kit specifically made for the MR2. The trigger wheel and the sensor were supplied by the same shop as a kit with a Cherry GS10701 sensor but specification of the trigger wheel did not exactly fall within the specs recommended by Cherry (http://switches-sensors.zf.com/us/wp-content/uploads/sites/7/2012/05/Datasheet_GS1005-GS1007_Letter_EN.pdf). The wheel itself is only a little over 3mm thick vs 6mm as recommended and tooth gap is approximately 5mm vs the recommended 10mm. However, when I looked at the trigger scope when installing the trigger setup for the first time, the signal looked clean (and it still does now) so I never thought much about it as everything worked. My trigger setup had actually been working trouble free for over a year. Could the sensor be failing? Here is a link to the kit I use but I've skipped the 1zz coil part using just the crank and cam sensor from the kir. http://racerxfabrication.com/mr2-celica/ignition/1zz-coil-on-plug If I were to change the hall sensor, is there any recommended alternative that I can use? Preferably in the same form factor so I could use the existing mounting. Also for the trigger scope, should I try running it at a higher RPM to see whether there is any degradation of signal when the frequency increase?
  3. To add a little backgroung information. This is a Gen 3 3SGTE engine on a MR2 managed by a Link G4+ Fury with the distributor replaced by a crank 36-1 crank sensor and a cam sensor with LS2 truck coils.
  4. I seem to be getting a lot of random ignition cut lately. I thought it was due to MAP limit being triggered from over boosting which was initially true but as boost was begin dialed in I was still getting ignition cut under hard acceleration. All this was happening at the track and it was difficult being the driver and tuner at the same time so it was overlooked and I simply continued to dial the boost down thinking I was just touching the MAP limit. Now that I have returned and have time to look at the logs in detail, I noted MAP was very much in check most of the time when the ignition cut occurred. Sadly, none of the Limit status was logged so I have no idea which limit was triggering the ignition cut but I do have Percentage ICut logged so I know for sure the sudden drop in power and loud pop coming from my exhaust was due to ignition cut. Attached are maps and logs from the second day of the track event (after addressing most of the overboosting issue) to help identify the problem. The first map was uploaded to the ECU in the morning where the ECU statistics had also been reset. The first log were pulled around noon after a couple runs at the track (somehow it only recorded one session). The second map was upload to the ECU right after pulling the first log with some minor updates to the PID boost control as I still thought it was the MAP limit causing problems and the second log were of the track sessions logged after loading the second map, closed loop lambda had also been disabled as all the pops and bangs from the ignition cut seemed to have killed my wideband. Looking at the logs you could see when ICut was being applied, MAP was nowhere near the 250kpa MAP limit or 235kpa after factoring in the 15kpa control range. Looking at the engine speed however, I've noted there were sometimes, a sudden spike in engine RPM when the ignition cut occurs. However, this only happens 1/4 of the time and seems to happen miliseconds after the ignition cut kicks in so I suppose it was the violent ignition cut itself throwing the RPM off rather than it being a cut due to RPM limit? Engine speed is being logged at 50hz, is it fast enough to catch all the rpm spikes that the ECU itself sees or could it be too slow? Other than the RPM and MAP limit trigging the igniton cut, I was unable to identify any other settings on the map which could cause the cut. Could anyone offer some help? Thank you! I would love to go on the street and test everything again now to diagnose the problem but sadly, due to the strict modification laws here in Hong Kong and the fact that its such a crowded city, there is no way I could drive my dedicated track car on the street without drawing attention and getting caught. Also, there are no race tracks in Hong Kong and the only option to hit the track is to travel up to mainland China which requires the application of a special one time permit (unless you are some one rich who can afford regular cross border license) so the opportunity of road testing the car at the track is really limited. Day 2-1.pclr Day 2-2af.pclr JITL Race 1.llg Below is the second log on google drive which I am unable to upload due to file restrictions: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Wnbves6DvJpBVGHoEAw0pVCqoVuJ9DGg
  5. Thanks! I was always under the impression that the injectors would always been injecting less fuel than the "straight line" curve given it takes time for the nozzle to fully open and that's why I found the base map strange. I am using ID850 so it was correct to use positive numbers then.
  6. Should the short pulse with adder values be in +ve or -ve? Previously I have used +ve numbers for the values but I am building up a new map today for a new ECU using the sample base map for my Fury and noted that all numbers are in negative. Tried looking at other base map too and noted they are also entered as -ve numbers. Does it mean logic of the G4+ actually adds the value entered into the tables to determine the effective pulse width and therefore -ve numbers should be entered for it to work properly? Meaning I have entered the wrong numbers into the pulse width adder all along?
  7. Yep, I know about the back feeding which would keep the ECU from powering down that is why the relay coils would be powered by the ignition key. Do note it is just the coil only so it will not be putting much load on the ignition key. I am mainly rewiring the engine/ECU harness only so there are only a few relays to be powered by the ignition key. A quick sketch below should explain things better. Basically, rather than supply power to the relay coils through the EFI relay, it gets its power from the ignition switch instead. The same way the EFI relay gets its power (I didn't draw any fuses in the quick sketch but they will be there).
  8. Looks like it is common practice to have a main EFI relay triggered by an ignition source power and have this relay supply power to the ECU and also supply power to the relay coils for other system such as igniton coils or fuel pump. Is it necessary for all other relays to be switched on my the main EFI relay? What is the difference between using the main EFI relay over the ignition key power? I am overhauling my whole electric system and is building a separate fuse box for the EFI system. I am using the bussmann 15303-2 fuse box where pin 86 on the relays are bussed together so in order to have a "main EFI relay" in the normal fashion, I will need to wire in another relay outside the fuse box in order to seperately supply a ignition signal to the main EFI relay and have the main EFI relay power the other relay coils through the bussed connection. I don't want to do this as I would like everything packaged neatly inside the fuse box. If the main EFI relay would be on and powering up the other relays when the ignition is switched on anyway (or at least providing +ve power to the coils so that they are powered up as soon as they are grounded) would it make any difference if I simply have the coils for all relays connected directly to the igniton power source? What is the reason for all other relays activated by the main EFI relay rather than the igniton key? I am deciding whether I should have the EFI relay also plugged into the fuse box with the bussed connection and power the bus with an ignition power source to switch on all relays. Thank you!
  9. Sorry, its been a long while. I've finally started to re-wire everything in my car and setup the PWM control at the same time. This is the solid state relay that I've ended up getting: http://hellahd.com/files/5113/4444/9719/H41773001 Data Sheet.pdf It's a Hella unit that looked extremely to the ones you get from NZ/Australia but seems like it is not designed for inductive loads. After doing some research on fly-back diodes, seems like a Schottky diode would work best for our application for its fast response. Looking at the specs, I think the diodes below should be sufficient for my purpose? Should the voltage rating of 120V be a concern as I've seen Adam recommending elsewhere the use of 1N4004 which are rated to 400V. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/V30120CI-M3-P?qs=F5EMLAvA7IDciT4dWs6BgQ%3D%3D https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/V40120CI-M3-P?qs=F5EMLAvA7IC2Rt1XtcaKGQ%3D%3D Thank you! Best regards, Jerry Ip
  10. MGV101

    Circuit opening relay

    I am rewiring my engine and building a custom loom for my MR2 with a Gen 3 3S-GTE engine and will be running it on a G4+ Fury. While studying the existing wiring, I noted the system uses a circuit opening relay for the fuel pump where there is a second coil to switch on power to the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. As I am deleting/replacing the whole fuse box along with the relay, will it work if I just use an ordinary relay for the fuel pump? The relay will be powered by an key-on power source with the coil grounded to the ECU fuel pump output. Will the G4+ switch on the relay during cranking to provide power to the fuel pump? Thank you!
  11. Well noted. Thank you Adam and everyone else for the reply.
  12. I am looking into setting up PWM control for a number of fans and water pump for my car and is trying to figure out the wiring side of things. I know the general approach would be to drive a solid state relay using a PWM output on the G4+ and use the PWM duty cycle to control the effective voltage so I though simply wring a PWM output from the relay would do the job. However, the more research I do the more I am confused. Searching online I have found diagrams from haltech and adaptronic where both had a similar setup. Both diagram had a 1K pull up resistor connected in parallel to the input side and haltech warned that damage would occur if the resistor is not installed. The adaptronic diagram also what looked like a freewheeling diode but it is connected in parallel to the output side (you shouldn't need one even if it is on the output side since there are no coils to drive in a SSR anyway). I cannot figure out what is the purpose of that 1K resistor nor the diode on the outside. What exactly are their purpose? Also, both diagram had prescribed specific outputs to use for this purpose and warned that damage may occur if any other outputs are used. Will that be the case for G4+? Thank you! http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=6106.0
  13. Thank you Simon. If this this the case how does the timing gets reintroduced back into the system? Seems like when no knock occurs for a specific time, the ECU will try to add timing back. When this happens does it simply add timing back into whichever i-trim cell the engine is currently operating at? Or does the engine have to stay in a cell for the delay countdown to activate and add back timing to that specific cell?
  14. Looking at the help file on PC link, it appears knock control uses two systems to retard ignition as a result of knock. The description in the help file isn't particularly clear but it seems like on an global level, when knock is detected, it will retard ignition timing according to how much the threshold had been exceed and the retard gain. Any subsequent knock will continue to increase such retard and the retard will be gradually advanced if no further knock event occurs. It appears to me that this ignition retard system is carried out on a global level regardless of RPM and load am I correct? In addition to the global system, when a knock event occurs, a value will be subtracted into the cyl X ignition trim table which will retard timing at a specific spot. Looks like this retard is permanent and will not be advances until it is reset (ie. when ECU powered on) and any more subsequent knock at the same spot would add in more retard in the table. If the engine had been knocking and we happen to be running into a spot where there is a retard value in the cyl X ignition trim table, will both the advances be added up? Also about the maximum retard value, does it apply just the overal timing or is it separately applied to the "global" retard and the cyl I trim?
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