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  1. Setting up PWM control for water pump / fans

    Well noted. Thank you Adam and everyone else for the reply.
  2. I am looking into setting up PWM control for a number of fans and water pump for my car and is trying to figure out the wiring side of things. I know the general approach would be to drive a solid state relay using a PWM output on the G4+ and use the PWM duty cycle to control the effective voltage so I though simply wring a PWM output from the relay would do the job. However, the more research I do the more I am confused. Searching online I have found diagrams from haltech and adaptronic where both had a similar setup. Both diagram had a 1K pull up resistor connected in parallel to the input side and haltech warned that damage would occur if the resistor is not installed. The adaptronic diagram also what looked like a freewheeling diode but it is connected in parallel to the output side (you shouldn't need one even if it is on the output side since there are no coils to drive in a SSR anyway). I cannot figure out what is the purpose of that 1K resistor nor the diode on the outside. What exactly are their purpose? Also, both diagram had prescribed specific outputs to use for this purpose and warned that damage may occur if any other outputs are used. Will that be the case for G4+? Thank you! http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=6106.0
  3. Some confusion with onboard knock control

    Thank you Simon. If this this the case how does the timing gets reintroduced back into the system? Seems like when no knock occurs for a specific time, the ECU will try to add timing back. When this happens does it simply add timing back into whichever i-trim cell the engine is currently operating at? Or does the engine have to stay in a cell for the delay countdown to activate and add back timing to that specific cell?
  4. Looking at the help file on PC link, it appears knock control uses two systems to retard ignition as a result of knock. The description in the help file isn't particularly clear but it seems like on an global level, when knock is detected, it will retard ignition timing according to how much the threshold had been exceed and the retard gain. Any subsequent knock will continue to increase such retard and the retard will be gradually advanced if no further knock event occurs. It appears to me that this ignition retard system is carried out on a global level regardless of RPM and load am I correct? In addition to the global system, when a knock event occurs, a value will be subtracted into the cyl X ignition trim table which will retard timing at a specific spot. Looks like this retard is permanent and will not be advances until it is reset (ie. when ECU powered on) and any more subsequent knock at the same spot would add in more retard in the table. If the engine had been knocking and we happen to be running into a spot where there is a retard value in the cyl X ignition trim table, will both the advances be added up? Also about the maximum retard value, does it apply just the overal timing or is it separately applied to the "global" retard and the cyl I trim?
  5. st205 with cop conversion rev counter?

    Yes, open up the relay and take out the switch. You don't need that part, just the coil. I used a relay on mine too (although a little different and involved the use and a transistor) and have removed the switch.
  6. 3sgte COP

    Yes the software is a little confusing here. Once you switch to direct spark it actually sets ign 1 to 4 as ignition output and locks it. Whatever you see in the settings does not matter and will be ignored. For the peace of mind, you can switch ignition main back to distributor and that will unlock ign 2 to 4 and manually set it as ignition then revert ignition main back to direct spark again.
  7. SW20 MR2 AC clutch control

    Wow... thank you for such a detailed answer cj. Yes, one of my main source of information were the factory wiring diagrams too. Somehow my version did not cover the 5SFE specific part through, and it had no mentioning of what the ACT pin does. Only with trial and error that I have figured out and grounding this would cause the AC shut down. The information you found affirmed my suspicion. It's a Gen 3 engine and the car itself is a JDM Gen 3 MR2. Seems like although this input is not used on the 3SGTE, the wiring is still there on the stock ECU connector and engine loom. Although the base map on the Link G4+ notes presence of this output, it was never configured properly and treated it as a ordinary AC signal used to switch on the AC even though it was a signal to stop the AC instead. (So yes, it is the pink green wire going to the G4+ AC output) I am actually now running a full coil on plug system and replaced the distributor with crank and cam sensors so there is no tach signal going to the ECU. MAYBE the AC amplifier is configured to ignore the ACT signal with a tach signal is detected and that is why no one had previously reported this problem. I actually had the car running briefly with a distributor system on the Link G4+ but it was only for a matter of days before I dropped the engine to carry out works and never refilled the refrigerant a year later and I had no recollection of whether the AC was working back then. I got a friend running a stock ignition system on a link G4+ too and he was having the same problem until we disconnected the ACT. However, his MR2 was one of the few rare ones which had a stock TRC system and it's own separate TRC ECU which further complicate things to draw a conclusion whether the AC works with the base map on a MR2 with a stock ignition system. Without a rpm signal for the AC amplifier to determine when to shut down the AC pump under high loads. Yes, it is a good idea to make use of the ACT input on the AC amp to give the compressor some protection.
  8. wiring for gauges

    Depending on the model, the newer defi controller unit has the option of receiving information via the defi smart adapter W. The adaptor can either send obd2 information via bluetooth to your smartphone or connect via cable to the control unit sending it the obd2 data. With that option, you can always connect the sensors to the link ECU, hook up a OBD plug to the CAN output on the ECU and have the smart adaptor relay information from your ECU to the defi control unit and your gauges. Information on how the system works can be found here: https://www.google.com.hk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.defi-shop.com/products/smart_adp_w/summary_smart_adp_w/&ved=0ahUKEwiX64fE8JDXAhVDlpQKHTxlCY8QFggmMAA&usg=AOvVaw2Cw2nPQQP9kqfgtpPUqXxu Not all parameters are supported though. See the table at the bottom of this page to find out what is supported: https://www.google.com.hk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.defi-shop.com/products/smart_adp_w/smart_adp_w_app/&ved=0ahUKEwiX64fE8JDXAhVDlpQKHTxlCY8QFgiGATAV&usg=AOvVaw3idZCa0nzaqFWTP2BLU95J This should be the easiest option.
  9. SW20 MR2 AC clutch control

    Yes that is what worries me, seems strange that no one else is having this problem. Maybe this is specific to a JDM MR2. If I only revert the AC clutch output, when AC request is off the output would still be at the "on" position wouldn't it? Meaning the AC amplifier would still be receiving a signal from the ECU to disengage the clutch even though the AC is already switch off. I doubt that would cause any problem but the OCD in me wants it to behave exactly like stock where no signal will be given to the AC amplifier when the AC is off and hence I was proposing to use the method above.
  10. SW20 MR2 AC clutch control

    After installation of the MR2LINK V3 pnp ECU, the AC on my MR2 had stopped working. After spending a long time troubleshooting and looking up factory electrical diagrams and research on how the AC circuit works we noted the AC clutch is controlled directly by the AC amplifier unit self and for the output from the ECU, an ON position actually tells the AC amplifier to disengage the clutch (presumably at high RPM to protect the compressor) rather than sending out a signal to engage the clutch. The map was initially locked by the tuner so I cannot simply disable the AC clutch output in the map. Instead, I simply removed the AC clutch output pin on the ECU connector and the AC immediately started to work again. I had been running my car the whole summer with the pin removed and manually switching off the AC when I am had on the throttle. Now that the map has been unlocked and I have finally found some time to work on the car, I intend to fix the AC issue the properly way with ECU control. See the attached screen shot for my solution to the problem. I am still in the office so have not tested it yet but I think it should work. However, I do find it strange that such consideration had not been made in the base map or hear this problem being mentioned by anyone else. This makes me fear hat there is actually something wrong with my car rather than the map itself. Can anyone help me confirm?
  11. ECU hold power wiring

    Thanks you, everything should be powered from the low side but I'll double check to make sure. The problem with RPM Zero Timeout is that it only works if they ECU is powered up so it will require ECU hold power to function too. Also another problem with the engine fan control on the Link ECU is that it is designed to control the radiators fans only as it is dependent on ECT. I am trying to control the engine bay temperatures on a mid engine car so controlling the temperature with reference to ECT is actually not very useful to me. I had use GP outputs and virtual aux to setup my own fan control with sensors in the engine bay. Would be nice if Link could give us the option to change the inputs under the default engine fan control.
  12. ECU hold power wiring

    I'm trying to setup ECU hold power solely for the purpose of keeping the engine bay fans running after I have switched the ignition off. I noted in the examples from the help file, a second relay is used to power the igniton coils, injectors, solenoids etc. to keep them powered up together with the ECU with the ignition off. As I am only using ECU hold power to keep the ECU powered up controlling my fan relays with GP outputs and temperature sensors, can the second relay be omitted and have the ignition coils, injectors, solenoids etc powered by its stock power system which switches off once the ignition is switched off? Would there be any negative effect if the ECU is powered on while everything else had been powered down? Thank you!
  13. 3sgte COP

    Are you just switching to COP only or have you also replaced the distributor with crank and cam sensors? If COP only, it should be as simple as switching ignition mode to direct spark and setting the correct dwell time for your coils once everything is wired up correctly. As mentioned by Adzn3k, you might also need to advance the timing by 360 degrees if the coils are firing on the wrong stroke (you can hear the mixture burning in the exhaust while being ignited on the exhaust stroke). One more thing to noted. As the G4+ will use ignition drive 1, 2, 3, 4 to control the coils, purge originally assigned to ignition drive 2 will no longer function and you'll need to reassign the function to another output. I don't have a charcoal canister so it doesn't matter to me.
  14. 3sgte COP

    Look for pinouts on the 1zz coil. I connected the +12 to the original coil power supply coming out from the fuse box, -ve to a grounding point on the engine block itself, and IGT (trigger) to the appropriate ignition outputs from the ECU according to cylinder number. It's nothing complicated, the ECU settings will handle the rest. The IGF pin on the coil is not used.
  15. st205 with cop conversion rev counter?

    Oh, alright. Thank you for the quick reply!