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Sheik

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Sheik last won the day on February 15 2018

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About Sheik

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    Toowoomba QLD Australia
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    IT and Cars, Tech in cars, Car tech, tech, cars, tech...

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  1. Thanks Adam. References to the original harness are totally pointless because there is none of it left... Ive overcooked this one right and proper. Also it says (past) next to your Tech Support title... say it isnt so!? You've moved on? T_T Gonna try DM this mess to you. You might need this to see it: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=51188 Not expecting you to make sense of it. I'll just have to sit down and have a good look through it all again one day if you cant spot something stupid. Cheers.
  2. Hi All. Pretty sure this is an AdamW question... but throwing it out regardless. I need someone to take a look at my map and wiring diagram to tell me why my ECU isn't firing my main relay. I have push-button start wired up, but its working off the key at the moment until a button goes in later. The issue isnt with 'starting', its from when the key is in the ON position and the main relay isnt working. The ECU is getting power because of the way the wiring is set up to provide 12v via a DI - but its not activating the main relay in order to keep itself online after key-off or to power any of the other relays. Map attachedGSR Basemap.pclr, but I will only send the wiring diagram to someone via DM to someone who has some knowledge in the area. Its a full engine harness diagram done in Visio so its not something I really want to put up for public consumption. A) Because it took a fair bit of effort, and B) Because it might be totally wrong and guide people down a bad path. :) I'm very interested to know whether I have the polarity correct on the ECU Hold Power output but nobody is probably going to know that unless they see the wiring diagram first. Just keen to know if I can change the polarity to test if it fires things up but im afraid I might cook something. Cheers.
  3. Had a win with this and got it working with the correct data stream settings. Just curious, does anyone know a trick to swapping between RealDash and PCLink? I note that once you have connected to PCLink you need to restart the device before it'll talk to RealDash again. Definitely not a major issue but would be convenient if there was a solution.
  4. Can I just say thanks for posting this. I have had an ongoing issue for a long time which has been too minor to fix but still caused immense irritation. There was basically a very soft 'shudder' coming off or coming back onto throttle. I thought this was due to be botching the accel enrichment or my lumpy cams. I put 15 degrees per second in for ignition retard and set reduction/introduction time to 1 second. Has completely smoothed out my throttle transitions. I am extremely grateful for having this solved and frustrated beyond belief for not having looked at these settings sooner knowing it was the overrun transitions where the issue was occurring.
  5. Having had both setups myself, I wasted a fair few brain cycles on this one myself... Going to rant the whole lot out here for you. When I had my plugin installed I made use of the onboard MAP although it bothered me a fair bit. Unlike most situations, I was sorely lacking holes through the firewall on my car which left me routing the vac line all the way around to the side of the engine bay, down the inside of the fender and in the passenger footwell. It was a good 3meter or so run of hose. Being relatively ignorant as far as maths/science goes, I asked a friend of mine who was very much that way inclined what kind of a delay that would place between the pressure change in my manifold and the ECU being able to read it. He said it would account for between 10 and 12ms of delay (based on speed of sound for air movement over the distance of the line). Depending on your background, thats going to sound like an eternity or non-existent to you. To me, it was quite a large number. This is the time it takes BEFORE THE ECU CAN REACT to the change. So I would then expect there to be another few ms before the ECU can implement a change. Depending on what kind of build you have, I feel you could possibly run into some issues here, but my theory is you would need to be running something thats got bonkers power figures and is capable of extreme changes in manifold pressure within a very short window. In that kind of an environment, one could theorise there is capacity for the engine to run lean due to the VE calculations "lagging behind" the actual intake pressure. I could also be drastically overthinking it. I would expect that there are going to be people a lot more scientifically inclined or even just someone with more first-hand experience with the matter who could tell us more. Not long back, I changed from the plugin to a wire-in with an external MAP and a very short vac line run. What I can tell you from my own experience from having installed and tuned both is that there was no observable difference (to my albeit inexperienced perceptions) in my 300-400hp Evo.
  6. Apologies for resurrecting a dead thread here but this just saved me asking a question parallel to it anyway. I just bought a pre-made A Loom which had all the "sensor ground" pins terminated to a "shield ground" pin. The wiring diagrams in the help file said as much, but its nice to have a confirmation that they are both technically the same thing once they are inside the ECU.
  7. You can use the Pinout Diagram along with the Installer IO Table (also in Help) to determine what can be wired up where. A safe strategy would be to fill in the Installer IO Table with your required sensors/outputs/etc so they are all certain to work. It was something I didnt do with my first build and I ended up chasing my tail a bit. Some things need to be on specific pins (ie. aux 5/6/7/8 for a stepper motor and DI 1-4 for flex sensors, etc)
  8. In the Help section of the PC-Link software. You will probably be able to search through it and find any other bits and pieces there too. Extremely well documented (pun intended).
  9. I am a total spud. Didn't notice the PDF. Will give it another crack.
  10. I had no luck with it on Windows 10 via USB tuning cable either. If anyone has got this working on the same config please let me know what data settings you used so I can test out. Cheers.
  11. Sheik

    AFR problem at idle

    Following - I have similar but less dramatic symptoms myself and have the same setup (onboard LSU 4.9 digital wideband). Mine has swings from around 0.97 down to sometimes ~0.91 after running for a while. I have pressure and temp data from fuel and oil so I have a little more to work with. Ultimately, I am chalking it down to not having proper data for my injectors. They are running at 1.4% DC (similar to what your log is showing) at idle and I dont think its possible for the pull enough fuel out when responding to fuel temp/intake charge temp. Due to it still being quite within reason and not generating any negative effects (poor idle/smoke/etc), I can ignore it in my case, but what you are facing sounds more significant. Just giving you an idea of what I logged and observed when trying to resolve the issue myself.
  12. Cheers - rather be double checking than getting it wrong and frying my ECU/Coils.
  13. Thanks for the reply Moto. Good news on the relay. As for the coils, I think the Evo ones might be a little different unless I am missing something critical? I have coils the same as the ones on this site: https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=26831&cat=1060 I have attached the wiring diagram from the electrical manual - it doesn't seem to have anything between the ECU and the signal post of the coil. I am hoping there are no surprises I am missing?
  14. Hi All In the middle of a bit of a flavorsome project - I am working on a 4WD Lancer GSR thats had a 4G63T swap done to it. The car had a factory ECU and a Microtech piggyback in it until which looked like it was a pretty reasonable setup for back when it went in, but leaves a lot to be desired now. I am working on wiring in a G4+ Extreme at present and have a few questions which I want to ask to possibly simplify my job. There are lots of sensors various fruit going in along with the new ECU. One thing thats being done is an upgrade to a set of Evo 7 OEM coil packs. Am I right in assuming that the J722T Igniter Module is now no longer necessary? I am just running power and ground to the new coils and a signal wire direct from the ECU? Secondly, I have a massive chunky double-relay which was situated down the bottom-left of the center console which I believe is the Multiport Fuel Injection Relay... The owner recently replaced the unit at great expense (due to the car failing to start and audible noise directing him to the issue). I should be fine to delete this yes? The fuel pump has already been separated and given its own relay which can be triggered by the ECU, which means that if I just add another standard relay in for the injectors, the MFI Relay will no longer be necessary correct? Does it do anything else im missing? I have plenty of spare ignition channels so I dont see any issues here, but my knowledge has many holes in it. Also more than happy to hear of any other hurdles I am likely to hit with this particular build if anyone wants to chime in! Cheers
  15. Just posting back on this one - I went in and had a crack at adding a 3d table into my MAP Limit with a Y-axis for differential fuel pressure as suggested by AdamW. Thanks for the mint suggestion. Means I have Fuel, AFR and Oil covered.
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