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Tim D

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Tim D last won the day on November 18 2018

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  1. I expect the fuel cut status will become active after the ignition retard has reached its target, hence my suggestion of letting car overrun for longer. I'd say give it a go... :-)
  2. Hi, I think it's working, as seen by the ignition trim, but it looks like the ECT is stuck at -30C for some reason. I tried uploading a screenshot but it was rejected for being over 81 kB You could try letting car overrun for longer, above 1800 rpm. Hope that helps.
  3. It looks like the wastegate duty cycle table needs tweaking first, it doesn't look very tuned?. The I-term is having to do a lot of correction to maintain steady boost. Once it's tuned, the PID terms will have less work to do and it should make tuning a lot easier...
  4. I have had similar experiences to this. In my case, the internal log file has self-erased, as indicated by the parameter 'Log Memory Use'. I can't explain it.
  5. Tim D

    New ECU has died

    Thanks all for your help guys! It turned out to be fuse number 11 in a fusebox I didn't know existed! Hidden away behind the immobiliser keypad, which you have to pull off it's hinges to reveal the fuses. Apparently this fuse feeds Engine ignition system and SRS airbag. It pretty much immobilsed the whole car! Not sure why it blew, perhaps I have an underlying fault that will come back to bite me! Thanks too to https://shopbhp.com/ - great tech support as always
  6. Tim D

    New ECU has died

    Thanks guys, I will try your ideas. As it happens, when the problem occured, I tried the headlights (as a crude battery health check) and they appeared to be fine.
  7. Tim D

    New ECU has died

    Hello Link and anyone that can help... I installed a brand new G4+, model WRX107+ to my Subaru one month ago (S/N 2655). It initially worked fine, although the log file has self-erased twice, a problem that my previous ECU (WRX107+) had. Today, on turning the key, the engine started to crank and halted after about one revolution. The battery and starter motor were new a few months ago. Battery voltage with everything switched off is around 12.7 V and no previous issues. I can no longer hear the fuel pump priming with key on. I can no longer get my laptop to connect to ECU, previously this was fine. PCLink displays "Searching" whereas it previously connected quite quickly. Interrogating Windows device manager shows the ECU to be on COM1, so I tried configuring PCLink manually to COM1, but this did not work either. I tried all connection baud rates. If I interrogate the ECU, it reports "Unable to connect to ECU but USB connection is present. Please cycle power to the ECU". Cycling the power made no difference. I rebooted laptop, this didn't help. I tried attaching screenshot but got the message "You are only allowed to upload 501.76kB" Please can someone advise?
  8. Hi Warchild, Although I'm not familiar with your boost controller, I guess it doesn't run in closed loop mode, otherwise it should make the necessary adjustments to maintain target boost? Does the controller have any configurable settings apart from boost? I'd also assume that your factory ECU was running closed loop since you say it maintained boost better? You can have 3 boost tables in Link, so that could be an option (unless you really need 6 settings?) Re: What will the Link ecu do better by controlling the turbo than the GFB ? Taken from the Link help file... Advantage The main advantage to closed loop control is the boost pressure consistency. With open loop control tables are needed to compensate for changes in environmental conditions. The closed loop system automatically corrects the duty cycle applied to the wastegate solenoid to achieve consistent boost pressures in all conditions. The Link closed loop boost control strategy also incorporates open loop correction tables in the closed loop control mode. These are provided to help increase control loop stability. Disadvantage The main disadvantage to closed loop boost control is the difficulty to setup. Tuning the control loop requires experience and understanding of how the PID control algorithm operates.
  9. Hi there, I'm not familiar with the GFB boost controller, but is there a reason you're not using the ECU to do 'closed loop boost control'? I found it to work very well if you're prepared to spend a bit of time tuning the PID terms etc.
  10. Tim D

    Knock I-trim question

    Hi there, The Knk I-Trims are corrections to individual cylinders, hence the Ignition Angle remains unchanged. It would be interesting to see your tune too, it looks like cylinders 2, 3 and 4 are not detecting any sound, not sure why? Btw, I found it best to log at 100 Hz to capture these knock events otherwise you can miss them.
  11. Hi there, Here's an area you could look at... It appears that 4 degrees of timing is being pulled all the time due to incorrect knock detection. The Knock target table is using AP, whereas your AP is stuck at zero (maybe you don't have drive by wire?). I think this should use TP (not AP). Hope that helps?
  12. I think turning idle ign control OFF is a good starting point. I also think your idle ignition table is back to front... The timing should increase towards the right... (see extract from help file)...
  13. Might be worth a look at idle ignition setup. Could you post a .pclr file.
  14. Slight tweak to pic...
  15. Thanks for the feedback Adam, much appreciated. I did see the pic you mentioned and also saw the HPA webinar explaining about it which was very good. It took me a while to understand the various terms, hence I produced my pic to aid my understanding. Does my revised pic look correct now: Please could you also comment on my setup, screenshot and files attached. 682.llg 682.pclr
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