R24

This is how I would do it.  
Put Engine running time on the Y axis of your IAT trim table.  Start up will be the top row, normal running will be the bottom row.  This is just a rough example but in this example if IAT was 60deg or above at start up it would pull 20% fuel out for the first 10seconds of running and fade back to normal fuel after 30seconds.

Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.

A typical situation would be that if the min clamp is to low, the ECU will be reducing the idle by lowering the DC. It will work fine down to say 30% but as you drop below 30% the valve starts to open again getting more open as you reduce the DC which causes the idle to increase and the ECU pulls even more.
If the solenoid is full closed at 0% DC then there is no issue with a 0 clamp its only in cases where the valve starts to open at lower DC.

This is not a valve I have seen before but I would expect with three wires it would have to be a solenoid valve.  A Stepper usually needs 4 or 6 wires.  Start with the min & max clamps set to 0 & 100% then set the clamps properly after you have tuned the base position table.

ISCV is too slow to really be useful for quick changes in closed loop, you really need to get your fuel dialled in nicely and then ignition trim is the best way to keep it stable in my opinion.
 

If the idle is oscillating, I'd look to adjust your base ignition and fuel tables to stabilise it first
 

For quite a while I've had an issue with an oscillating idle especially during the winter months with a built Subaru application. We first came across it on my V88 ViPec ECU, but could not do too much about it given that I was out of tables on the ECU to bring online certain features such as idle ignition control. Since moving to the G4+, I have been able to activate the Idle Ignition table, which seems to have helped things out especially on warmup from cold, but I'm finding that when up to temperature, the oscillation seems to return, and the ECU appears to be bouncing into parts of the ignition map (i.e. at 2500rpm) that it shouldn't really be doing, given that target idle is more like 1200rpm, which is contributing to the oscillation.  As is now, when sitting at traffic lights, other motorists could easily be forgiven for thinking that I was trying to instigate a race, given how it sounds as if I am constantly blipping the throttle.
This isn't much of an issue at all while the engine is warming up, but tends to become a lot more prevalent once at operating temps.
I have taken a log and map for your perusal. If any of our resident experts knows what I need to be adjusting, I would very much be grateful. 
Map 1.1.pclr
Map 1.1 Idle log - Log 2018-01-20 9;54;42 pm.llg

Thanks Adam, will do. I will set the idle ignition lockout back to the previous value which kept it off. I know the idle is not perfect yet, but compared to where it was before, it's a night and day difference so far. The map was ported over from my Vipec V88 where it was controlling the fans as they should.  It seems there are a few settings that get lost in the translation when making the upgrade. I will report back with logs and the updated map soon.
Thanks everyone for your contributions so far. I'm extremely grateful!

Can I just say thanks for posting this. I have had an ongoing issue for a long time which has been too minor to fix but still caused immense irritation. There was basically a very soft 'shudder' coming off or coming back onto throttle. I thought this was due to be botching the accel enrichment or my lumpy cams. I put 15 degrees per second in for ignition retard and set reduction/introduction time to 1 second. Has completely smoothed out my throttle transitions. 
I am extremely grateful for having this solved and frustrated beyond belief for not having looked at these settings sooner knowing it was the overrun transitions where the issue was occurring.   

I've found about 10 deg in the ignition retard gives a nice smooth transition in and out of fuel cut.
The charge temp approximation table is a tricky one and it takes a bit of time to get it right. It will also have an effect on the fuel table so this really needs to be done on a dyno or road tested with AFR feedback. If its been tuned in Traditional fuel mode then you don't need to use it.

Hi Dave, sorry earlier I was trying to load the layout file i was using before this one was created. I will send you the layout file later.
But still with this new layout you get all those red highlights and the analog gauge dont work. If you see the coolant temperature gauge,  i right clicked and when into manual setting to adjust the colour and it worked.
Can i know why it doesn't exactly follow the settings made with the laptop? The engine speed curve gauge settings doesn't have the x1000rpm increment, need to manually adjusted. Please advise.  
 
Ragupathy

Hi Dave,
Ok got it right. After selecting the Auto option, I exited, saved and store the Layout.
It worked just right. Thank you Dave.