Vaughan

The PSIG means Gauge pressure in psi which is absolute minus barometric If you are seeing a negative value with the car off you will need to look at what your absolute and Barometric values are to make sure they are set up right, a drifting calibration can be indicative of a failing sensor

No need to keep the factory NB O2 sensors

Enter negative values.

You should be able to use an xy plot to get most of what you want plotting wise

The Hz value in the top right corner of PCLink is related to communication speed with the ECU, a lower value will mean less values/resolution in your PC Log but won't affect the ECU log

Probably a good idea to attach an updated copy of your tune too please. If you leave the cam angle test set to "inlet bank 1" do you get stable values in the cam angle runtimes? Yes aux outputs controlling VVT should be wired to the low side of the solenoids and should be set to active low. In terms of sluggishness have you checked your timing calibration again now that it is running? I see it is set to a nice round 270deg but confirmation that that is correct with a timing light while it is running would be a very sensible move. Note I'm going to be out of the office in about an hour and won't be back until Monday. @Adamw should be able to help with all of this tune setup stuff but you will need to send him a link to your drive with the files in it.

This may be due to the lack of peak & hold driver on that output as discussed way back or something else. Yes there should be no issues with running it just on port (staging table set to 100% and 0rpm and 0pw staged lockout values)

So the VVT cams are all reading angles now? Port injection uses Fuel -> Fuel Setup -> Fuel Main -> Fuel System Type setting to determine what fuel pressure value to use to correct the port injectors, DI injectors use the "DI Fuel Pressure" runtime value for pressure correction, this is all built in. Because you have set your Fuel System Type to MAP referenced it will assume the Base Fuel Pressure (379kPa as specified in your tune) is the differential port injector fuel pressure at atmospheric manifold pressure and at all other manifold pressures. If you have a returnless low pressure system with a constant pressure (not MAP referenced) then you will need to change that setting to Returnless. Yes you can run just the port injectors and the DI Rail Pressure value doesn't affect them or their calibration. Note your current basemap shows 1300cc/min at 300kPa for the port injectors (Secondary) and 750cc/min at 379kPa for the DI injectors (Primary). This makes me think you've entered your injector data the wrong way around as your rated pressure for the primaries matches your specified low pressure system pressure.

Your log doesn't show a cam test happening, which of the above steps did you follow.

My suggestions would be: Set Inlet retard Tooth Tolerance to -5deg Set Exhaust Advance Tooth Tolerance to 5deg, both of those suggestions just to give it some wiggle room. set your VVT RPM Lockout to 0 and your ECT Lockout to 0degC for the moment so that no lockouts are applied. From here you can set cam angle test to individual cams to see if they show up with proper consistent angles in the Cam Angle runtimes (can see these runtimes in the Runtime Values window (R/F12) VVT page). You can also set Cam Angle Test to Calibrate and watch it step through all 4 cams to see whether it manages to calibrate them or not. Once the cams are calibrated some more suggested settings changes are: Select the correct PWM Output for each cam PWM Frequency of 1kHz seems rather high, do you know what frequency the factory engine controller uses? Control algorithms for the bank 2 cams can be set to the respective bank 1 cams to avoid having to update the PID values separately on each bank. Base Duty of 86 is very high, normally this is closer to 40-50%.

In terms of figuring out if it does the equation twice (once per bank) or if it does it once and then does closed loop corrections if you can see ignition numbers per bank or per cylinder then maybe find a way to let more air into one bank's manifold than the other (crack one throttle more) and see if each bank's ignition timing follows the same value form the ignition table or if each bank has significantly different ignition numbers implying that they are being pulled from different parts of the ignition table. Basically need an imbalance to see how it deals with it. In terms of CAN integration we will most likely need to source a car locally in Christchurch NZ or Auckland NZ and spend a significant amount of time decoding the CAN for it.

To speed up the trigger scope sample rate I believe we would have to reduce the number of channels we are logging in it, might be possible to give it settings to choose between faster and fewer vs slower and more.

As another thought the other thread with the 2.7 ecoboost (https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/21146-ecoboost-27-compatibility-vvt-dome-control-etc/page/2/) has what looks like the same pattern and uses a trigger offset of 283

based on your pictures I put the yellow cursor about where I think the sensor is at tdc and it looks like an offset of approximately -90 or +270 Also your trigger scopes above look identical so the cams didn't move, this may be due to lack of oil pressure as it was just cranking not running.

I would be curious to see how the factory ECU deals with a significantly different pressure for one bank than the other

Life uses 291deg atdc from the gap which would be -291 btdc so that suggests you are somewhere in the region of 30deg off in your trigger calibration in the Link, note I'm not sure which end of the gap they use so if they use the other end of the gap that is 18deg away but I assume they are basing it off the tooth after the gap like we do. Unsure how they determine which half of the cycle though so could be ~-291 or ~69 not seeing any pictures Actually rethinking this now as that 291 atdc seems to be when cam passes but their crank tooth gaps shows the gap to be at tooth 2ish which could imply an offset of maybe 12? Either way I do think your current Link Trigger calibration is incorrect or at least needs better confirming.

Can you get hold of an oscilloscope and scope Trigger 1, Trigger 2 and Ignition 1 over several attempted starts to check to see if always firing ignition 1 in the same half of the cycle please. If it is always firing ignition 1 in the same half of the cycle then the next step would be to set the engine at tdc cyl1 on the compression stroke and eyeball where the cam teeth are relative to the sensor and where the crank gap is relative to the sensor so that we can ball park check your trigger offset. If you are seeing the ign 1 signal from the ECU on the LED light but not seeing the timing light flash that suggests either weak spark or it's being snuffed out, if I have issues like that I usually remove all spark plugs to decrease voltage drop on cranking and I have one spark plug grounded to the head but out in the open and connected to the high tension lead so that I can visually check for spark and so that it is easier for it to arc.

Because you are using 3d deadtime tables instead of 2d deadtime tables they are using some of the general purpose tables that can be allocated to different things instead of using the fixed tables only used for specific things. This means that when you turn the fuel mode off it de-allocates these tables and then when you turn it back on it reallocates them, in your case in a different order to how they were initially allocated when you went through turning things on and off, if you don't use the option to reset the tables you will see the values from what the table was previously being used for show up in the new location the table is being used. Given that you are using 3d deadtime tables it might be easier next time to just use the rpm limit with a 100% fuel cut (but no ign hard cut) to cut the fuel while you are cranking. The function each GP table is allocated to can be seen in the table allocation window down the bottom of the ECU settings menu. Where have you gotten to with confirming the ignition timing?

Trigger scope is happy, PCLog is happy. Maybe try pulling the spark plug out and grounding the thread of it while cranking so that it has less load on the coil and so that you can visually check for spark while cranking

Looking at your new PCLog the measured dwell time is changing so it is sending the signal to trigger the coil. Battery voltage looks good

I'm not seeing a new trigger scope in that onedrive folder. PCLog while cranking will show if it is trying, good chance it is not seeing a spark when cranking because of a loose connection in that high tension setup that is shaken by the motor or it could be something like battery dropping while cranking, regardless a PCLog will show what it is trying to do. Don't go changing trigger pattern.

Find a really basic one to use, if you do it on the power to the coil it could be picking up when other coils fire Also do the ignition test and look for spark at the spark plug to prove that you got the ignition lead in properly

Yes your staged rpm lockout is 2700rpm but your staging table is all 0s which is what I was referring to.

I wouldn't recommend toughing the ignition Main -> Spark Edge setting unless you know that the ford coils don't use the standard falling edge that 99% of ignition coils use. That is an excellent way to melt coil packs and your previous investigations seem to indicate that it is sparking correctly and the coil packs haven't melted so falling edge is most likely correct. For your setting your base timing you NEED to be clamping your timing light over an ignition lead between the coil pack and spark plug, not over the power lead to the coil or anything else. For engines with Coil on plug you need to pull the cylinder 1 coil out and push an ignition lead into the end of the coil pack boot with the other end to the spark plug, use the ignition test to confirm the connection is good and that the timing light signal is working.

Have you wired ignition drive 1 to cylinder 1, ignition drive 2 to cyl2 and so on? When calibrating the ignition timing with a timing light have you made a pair of tdc marks on the crank pulley by measuring near tdc for cyl 1with a dial gauge on both sides of tdc and then splitting the difference. Once you have that tdc mark for cyl 1 did you connect a timing light between the ignition 1/cyl 1 coil and the spark plug and then connect PCLink to the ECU, open the "set base timing" window, set the first box to 0deg, pressed enter and then cranked it over while the "set base timing" window is open to confirm that the spark happens right on that cyl 1 tdc mark? This is best done with fuel off and needs to be done with a timing light with no offset configured within it.