MarcD

have just ordered one.. will see how we get on once it turns up

Thank you!

hi Adam would it be suitable to use the same dwell table for toyota 1NZ coils running on MX5 1.6 supercharged, wasted spark setup? Thanks Marc

What about mixture map?

excellent. thank you!

how about if I activate Antilag through an input switch, but leave all the antilag trims as 0?

any way to activate / deactivate CLL via a switch on a DI / virtual Aux when driving without laptop connected? thanks

its a fair point. I hadnt thought of using a 2nd GP pwm output for direction. However, as you say, there are no available aux outputs on the expansion connector 1 or 2 . how would you configure the boost control to do as required? thanks Adam

using the boost control as the direction control. I can only get the GP PWM to drive the motor closed, it returns to open on its spring. I haven't been able to control the position of the blade using this function alone in locked antiphase mode (one PWM input) with the Boost control as PWM input to the direction, I have power to the motor from GP PWM, and can reverse it to drive it open / closed using the Boost control PW also, the closed loop function is tantalizing, pegging the blade position against desired manifold pressure at various revs

as an update, am using a Pololu high powered motor driver. using the GP PWM output to provides drive to the motor driver. I've now set up an Aux out as a Boost solenoid. putting this onto the logical DIrection pin of the motor driver, allows me to control the blade through duty cycle. just fine tuning now and understanding all the tables and in/outputs for the boost control.

Thanks Adam Further research suggests this might be suitable. https://www.pololu.com/product/1379 Or even a cheap arduino board or jaycar equivalent. https://breadboards.co.nz/products/dual-h-bridge-motor-stepper-motor-relay-coil-etc-driver-for-arduino?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=47411665679&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzduf1Pjr2wIVVRuPCh2Ilg6fEAQYBSABEgKLfPD_BwE Can I control /calibrate the gp pwm based on the feedback from the internal potentiometers? Then have it either a) based on tp% or b) map?

thanks Adam have been digging further, and playing a bit today, before reading your response (thank you!). I'll type findings here, just in case it changes the outcome (fingers crossed!) can get the flap to snap shut with 12 V, it snaps back to open when disconnected. with GP PWM connected, (12 V to motor+ and GP PWM driving to 0v to Motor- )and set at 10 or 20 hz, it buzzes when its activated on TP%, but no movement of throttle plate. the unit is a Bosch Throttle body that MB re purposed as a diverter valve. its Merc part number is 1110980109 which is now superseded by 1110980050 Bosch part number 0280750467 does that change anything?

Just found this. which suggests its a PWM valve, with redundancy on the throttle plate feedback. am told its the same as the E throttles. am trying to set it up as GP PWM. would that make sense?

supercharger off a C230 Mercedes Kompressor. believe its an M65 (or M62) has an electronically actuated bypass valve. this has 6 pins in the connector. does anyone have any idea how to wore this upto Link G4+ so I can control bypass based on TPS output? thanks! Marc I found this, not sure if its relevant though, or how it would allow control?

running 4 rib belt. ratio 2.2 : 1 info I have is 16000rpm max continuous, 18500 max short time. 500cc discharge per rev. am now thinking its the inherent design of the old style roots blowers, and no matter what i do its going to be the same. looking at a MP62 / 90 charger or similar to replace it.....

so frequency increases with revs, from 187hz upto 680hz at around 6k rpms Sc-1.m4a

thanks for the offer Davidv, am in Hamilton. I'll give your methodology above a shot, and see how we get on. last night I replaced the pod intake with the stock air filter box, but no luck. I do have a smaller bypass valve, which I might try in case the issue is the openness of the Tial 50mm component. its more a howl than a whine. I'll take a sound file and attach it.

thank you! I have tried the dual throttle body setup (one pre SC and one stock location) and that didnt make a difference. I'm about to take the SC off its so noisy. I'll give this a try. appreciate help

so that didnt work! lol got an airbox from a Ford 2L, ecotech, which has quietened then intake noise considerably. now just the SC whine to go

looking for some words of advice from the team! I have fabricated some brackets and fixed an AMR500 supercharger to cold side of Mazda MX5. Made the throttled volume small, and got it in a nice tight package. Have a bypass working for 100% boost dump at idle, progressively closing around half throttle. all up and running drives well on a really safe tune and I'm working through getting a decent tune into it. (have noted the intake temps rise rapidly under full throttle boost so might add secondary injector to plenum in future, but thats WIP) getting around 6psi boost at WOT which is within the range I was anticipating. However, it whines like crazy which I am told Roots type blowers will do, but they can be quietened down. At some revs its nicely quiet (2800 for example). At 100km/hr in 5th, approx 3200rpm (daily driver) its loud, not unbearable, but will quickly become tiresome! I know a bit about Hermholtz resonators, pressure waves and destructive frequencies, and fortunately the stock MX5 intake has one, so am going to try to incorporate that piece of the intake into the new intake. my questions... are Hermholtz the best solution? are there any other workable solutions (apart from taking off the SC!)? is it best to put the hermholtz before the SC or after? thanks in advance! Marc

looking good Greg. wish I bit the bullet and got one of those from NL when on sale last weekend! can you alter the VE tables? and also activate / deactivate quick tune using just the touchscreen? how do you input numbers? or is that keyboard requirement? thanks marc

no, but am watching with interest how you get on with it!!

HI Adam is there a way to get mixture map to "add back" the correction that CLL has applied and is registered in the log and then apply to the fuel table? am leaving CLL on as cheap insurance but want to ensure I am as close as possible with the map. thanks Marc

so I've implemented this. no other changes. initial observations on driving.. through the lambda gauge, not through Link software.. AF ratios settle much quicker, and remain constant. I have idle AF set a little richer to give better idle, I might change this leaner now as it appeared much more stable than previously below 3k rpm, low gears in traffic on neutral throttle there remains an oscillation although reduced in amplitude, but the wavelength has been increased dramatically. previously this would occur every 0.5 secs, now approx every 1.5 sec. I'll check the ecu log when I get the chance and compare. cheers Marc

I'm experiencing the oscillating adjustment with CLL with an aftermarket Wideband, not a CAN link. I've adjusted map to match your numbers. will upload before journey home from work and see if it improves. worst time for me is in stop go traffic, when lightly on throttle in first gear, crawling along. car starts to jump when CLL turned on with current setup (below). will report back later