mjb214

Could it be the closed loop ftrim? it has a limit of 15% which aligns with what you are seeing. Should I pull fuel out of the fuel table to make it fall within the 15% or do I raise this. It seems to me that pulling fuel out at idle on the fuel table would be better and try to stay in the middle of the lambda targets.

Thanks that really helped a lot, the idle is so much better. Here is the updated tune/log from today with these changes made. I charged the battery up before doing this, I had swapped to a higher output alternator but still seems to not charge enough. I'll investigate that further another time. I also did a recal of the eTB before starting it to see if that was not right. It seems to hit 100% throttle at 75% pedal still so I'll recal the pedal next week as well to see if that was out of whack. There should not be anything obstructing it on 0 or on 100. Do you think it is still idling too rich? I changed the two cams that were not showing zero until they hit zero think it was LH exh and RH exh. Any other advice would be great Log - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oQVV9WocHnutQURNrq05pg24bMh0EWZG/view?usp=share_link Tune - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kh229pdMl5rroluMpmOnGrCMuxRg-iI0/view?usp=share_link Edit* There was a pretty solid backfire right near the end of the run ~42:40minutes. I was reviewing the logs to see and it looks like it goes from 29 degrees timing to zero then back and then again it hits 5 BTDC ~43min. So something is overriding the ignition table but I can't figure out what it is.

I have been trying to get the idle to smooth out and have the cold start and warm up run smoother. I have gone through several iterations of log and edits. The car was dyno tuned and other than the idle drives fine. At startup sometimes there is surging in RPM enough to stall occasionally, at warmup there is sometimes surging of 100-150 RPM. Are there any settings or things I should be looking at to smooth it out on warm up and hot idle? Log link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xkbDpnOuDXDYgQ3ZnvmQybZFQb3Vh9w2/view?usp=share_link Tune link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BSN7T1yl8a1C-kcXck8bSj50MUgaew7B/view?usp=share_link Car information 92 MR2 - 3.5L V6 - 2GRE-FE with a single BW Turbo 525cc Injectors I have additional Logs and other tunes as well, this was my last attempt Thanks you for help/advice

It didn't work still, so I went and borrowed my neighbors Blue tooth Dongle and his worked on my phone and with torque pro on the tablet but not with realdash. I was able to get realdash working on my phone but the android head unit just wouldn't get anything. So something in the app on the android head unit is having issue with talking the the dongle that came with it. Go figure. Either way I am figuring it out, so thanks for the help. I might need to give in and not use realdash or buy a different dongle

Ok I'll try that in the next day or two. I had tried both of them before without any success. I thought I had gone through both Can 1 and 2 at several bit rates and then started messing with the channels.

The OBDII is wired to the CanH and CanL on the ECU main connectors. The OBDII is wired per the diagram with two signal grounds, Bat + and the two Can wires from the ECU. I was just trying everything and left off on making that generic dash stream to try that. So that is not in use in any way My USB is connected to the round port currently so I can plug in for logging/tuning. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKmQ3nrHSkXphSYu50FkUm8DccCeZF5-/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gJgXASEv3rNaVHh4exIujzUPyIlVEqLU/view?usp=sharing

Just got the car dyno tuned. I gave it another shot to get realdash to communicate but still couldn't get anything. Latest attempt attached if you could let me know if I am doing something wrong. The OBDII is wired and a bluetooth dongle attached. The bluetooth piece came with the android head unit I bought, it shows up as connected on the tablet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sx2QtgtnbvrPJ46J5qdjyZrknfixaDy6/view?usp=sharing

Thanks, I will raise the map limit slightly and do some more testing. Here is the tune. I have the RealDash as setup for OBDII (i had it as link but saw some other post you did saying it should be OBDII). I'll check what the settings are and add them to this later today. Here is the latest tune I am using, I was trying to change the baud rate and various settings but couldn't get any to work. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing Edit... The Realdash was set to automatic. Let me know if you can take a look and what it should be set to. Thanks!

Yea I was searching and some post I found said it starts to control ign at .2bar under the limit. That seems reasonable, I just was confused if I was missing some other limit. My next issue is I have the OBDII wired up to the Can 2h/2l and have a blue tooth dongle plugged in. I can't get any data to stream to my android head unit running real dash. I have it set to bluetooth in the realdash settings and thought I had it set up correct in the link. Next week I am going to borrow a friends reader and see if it's my blue tooth dongle or if I am doing something wrong in the can settings.

I have been doing some more road tuning prior to my dyno session to be sure everything is working properly. I am seeing the car hitting the MAP limit before the actual set value. In the attached log file at 4:47 timestamp the MAP limit activates but it shows a pressure of 24.2psia and the limit is at 27.0psia. I was looking to see if IAT or ECT would effect the MAP limit but when I graph it that also holds at 27.0. What is causing it to activate before the actual targeted value? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1blAtDJ_xAE1zpMkli7h2hnG9eOPvrYnq/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing

My dyno session is scheduled for Nov 11th. I did about 10 iterations of taking it for a drive and looking at the logs and leaning out the fuel in small steps. How does this look? Still rich but it drives without falling on it's face when floored. Anything you would change in the fuel map or timing? During the log I kept pulling over and making small changes, so the last time on the throttle was the most refined. I made some more tweaks but haven't tested it yet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TX3LKYMq8NiQ4xqQ_t6kOP48UqmMyxBn/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlKziHcrKNVSZWtQzzqvUqUSqBxWjlOV/view?usp=sharing I was expecting way more fuel required as boost kicked in, but it didn't seem to follow that trend. Is there something I am missing or doing wrong?

Ah ok, Yea Cause I watched it operate in the log. How would you set the axis up, the one he has by TP and the other by MAP. Wouldn't they both want to have the same criteria. Or does it operate fine in 2D by RPM. I always thought they were just controlled by RPM only.

Yea I could smell the richness and saw the AFR but was more worried about wasting the day at the tuner if something is wrong that i could address now. I'll get it updated, thanks on that. and I'll ticker around and see what I can deduce happened to the VVT, I didn't change anything on purpose since the first tune and I thought it was working then. I saved the MAP right after he tuned so I might just backdate it.

I was able to get the boost down by zeroing out the WG duty cycle. It appears to be holding 6-7psi which is good for now. The car under acceleration hits a wall at ~3k rpm and just barely goes up after that. when we did it in 5th is pulled fine. I put every parameter I could think of and I don't see any limiting issues. For example at time stamp 20s it just hits 3rd and with it floored for 5 seconds it goes from 3k rpm to 4.3k rpm. The dyno came in at 339whp @ 5psi. Since then I cut the intercooler apart and deleted the plastic intake manifold and made the intercooler into the manifold. Second issue is at idle there sounds like a misfire every few seconds along with a high idle and bouncing revs sometimes. I plan to set up another dyno now that I am done changing things in the engine bay but I want to sort out everything possible before since it's a 3 month backlog on the dyno. I could stream data and do a teams call if that would help. Below is the link to the log and the map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p7iw39-WjZm8o3QX28_wnYuQHohxu01a/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q7fpgL3YanhOk71HkajuQMilG2whIIhf/view?usp=sharing

The blue light is blinking, with no key in. The fuel pump charges for about 2 seconds when I plug the ECU in. So that is at least one of the issues, hopefully the only one.