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About mjb214

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  1. Hope you all are safe. Any thoughts on my last post? As another update I swapped in my Tein Coilovers but didn't have time to drive it again.
  2. I didn't realize a tuner built in was an option. I have a 7 x 3.75 window in the stock bezel for a display. I can slightly shave this to a larger amount but would like to keep it stock size ish. I planned to exposy or solid mount it to the bezel just like in that video I posted. I would like the radio to work, the speakers to work, the gauges to work. And if possible tuning. So you say there are options designed for this? Where should I search and can I narrow it down by size and inputs? I'll do some research tomorrow night or Monday but if you have something in mind that could jump start me that would be great. As another update I drove the car for the first time. The transmission worked, I did not remember the latest tune which the throttle response was improved with your help so I will add that next time. There were no issues on the drive, I did not have a long enough cord to have my laptop with me so I kept the rpm low and out of boost. Very exciting to drive it after 2.5 years of work.
  3. Yea I think that meets what I need. There is still a lot I am unsure on. It appears some people have been able to convert the antennae to a USB input. A 4 way USB hub then brings it to the tablet? I am sure I am missing some details here. The realdash website really didn't help me much, and they do not have many posts on their forums. What I was hoping for is a list of things required. Does this need to go USB C -> the port on the ECU? Or is it OBDII to USB C. Or something else converting it. When I connect the Tablet to it does a simple USB splitter work so I can bring the radio signal in? Or does a tablet with a separate power port needed? I believe most Tablets run on 5V so I assume I am pulling off of 12V dropping it to 5V. I saw there were some 3rd party apps to help with tablet power. meaning it will power off when not charging and auto power on, leaving a few second window disabled so going from ACC to start doesn't cut it off. Any other nuances to be aware of. I will still have my dash so I don't care so much about RPM/SPeed, but I very much care about AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, and some other inputs likely. The post you made has a lot of good info but it's difficult to dig through and get a clear image. I am sure my basic wiring skills aren't helping, I spent quite a while digging on the internet and didn't find any one place with good info but a lot of partial things. I started pasting them together. I'll be up at the car tomorrow taking a look at it and measuring for tablet sizes.
  4. For more clarification here is a video showing exactly what I would like to do. He isn't running Link but otherwise, same model MR2 and same goal. I want to display gauges and still have radio functionality if possible. The radio side he made a pretty good write up on I think I can follow. The ECU side I need to be sure it will work with the Link and then find a tablet that best fits the space.
  5. Well that heater core was an absolute nightmare. It got me thinking. I have been wanting to look into a tablet head unit to replace the radio but really wanted it to double as a digital dash. Does link support this? Anyone have any experience mounting one to look clean in a SW20 MR2? I found some online, One was running MS3 and looked awesome but no radio that I saw.
  6. New heater core is on the way. If I get up there this weekend I will swap it in. and hopefully be able to test the throttle response and run it through the gears on the lift. I was able to get the seat belts and seats fully in finally. I had to weld up some brackets so the buckle was not tucked down below the seat cushion. Does the OBD port really need sensor ground for the two ground wires. Some online states chasis ground. Where is the best place to grab power, do I need to put it straight to battery or is there a good place to tie in that is powered all the time.
  7. Just an update. My dad in an attempt to help took off the rubber hose using channel locks which crushed the copper pipe. So that solidified not being able to repair the heater core. Upon closer inspection it is completely plugged with stop leak anyway. I ordered a new heater core and i'll pull the dash to install that in the next 2 weeks. I didn't get a chance to run your new throttle settings as it would spray coolant in the front trunk.
  8. Yea, I replaced the copper pipes that go over the gas tank from engine to heater core with rubber hoses as they had leaks when I had the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump with a larger one. I didn't catch this one until just last weekend. This one is up in the front trunk where the heater core has two copper lines that stick into the front trunk right above the battery. 1" after the hose connected there is a crack in the copper. I am hoping to either cut it back or solder onto it. The heater core is around 150 used but a pain to replace as it's behind the dash. I have some of the interior still apart as I am going to be re-wiring the gauge cluster to hook up to my 93+ gauge cluster in lieu of the 92 one that had a mechanical speedometer which was broken. The new one is identical looking but electronic speedometer, and naturally they changed the connectors and where half the wires go just for fun. I made my own diagram by following the board on the back so I am fairly confident I can get that working. Then I need to solder in a resister to get the tach right which there are posts of how to do online. The wiring was the biggest thing for me to tackle as it was all new to me, all of your support was amazing. Hopefully I won't have much more dumb questions as I think this is as much tuning as I will do. Once it goes through all the gears and I am confident it is mechanically sound I will schedule the tuner which has a 4-6 week backlog usually.
  9. Thanks. I've made all those changes and will test it next weekend. My dad was in the car while I was watching the computer, the TP drop was after he revved it and let off it almost stalled out and then recovered. Hopefully your updates here will help with that. We found a leak right where the heat core pipe comes out of the front fire wall. If I can get that leak fixed I will be putting the seats/seatbelts in then putting it on the lift to test each gear and look for anything amiss under the car while it's in gear. After which I'll drive it. I don't want to buy a new heater core, my plan is to cut the pipe, flare it further back and put a new hose in. (it's copper) Not relevant to this discussion but this might stop me from testing it as the coolant leaks right above the battery.
  10. sorry, Try this one https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UvFXrHWviQozSUGRUXWELnU_ruJHPats
  11. I was able to get up. After sg hoses under the car in prep for the first drive I was able to run it. As you stated I slowly edited it each 10 degrees to adjust idle. I kept the idle around 750-800 at the end and I think i'll keep it here. I put in 10 degrees either way for the intake and exhaust and believe it was working as intended. The log was too big to post so a link to my google drive is below. The Map was mall enough to attach. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-_DDuXrp7QX0QR5OgXlGV8oUfoOPTwAU Any other thoughts? 2-1-20 includes cam movement.pclr Next weekend I will be going through the gears with it on the lift to check the tranny and for anything rubbing underneath. Then hopefully drive it down the road.
  12. Thanks. I'll be back up sunday and I am starting to secure hoses and such to test drive line while in the air and maybe drive it slowly. Before that I'll run it and walk through the things you mentioned trying to work on. I'll log it with some cam movement as well. I think the errors were left over from the times I was trying to resolve it until I found the resistor. Next log will verify that.
  13. Thanks. I'll try that to see if it is responding correctly. Right now if the solenoid is charged it should show manifold pressure to the spring, so it still won't open until it overcomes the spring which I believe is the normal way to operate it. The test you mentioned will tell me what I need to know. The turbo is brand new so I am confident the spring mechanism will work. The last question is finding out what spring is in the actuator and adjusting the preload on it. Possibly ordering a new spring if needed but hopefully it shipped with a 5psi spring like I think it did.
  14. I pulled the wiring apart to check my splices on the grounds and 5v source, all the wires were very tight with good conductivity everywhere. So I cut the shrink wrap off my resistors to check them. I know I got the correct resistances but the error was that I put the Trigger resistor on Cam 3 (the one that wasn't working). Just as you suggested it was the resistor. Thank you for the excellent support in finding another gremlin. The car is reading all 4 cams now properly. The only thing left to do is check to see if the boost solenoid actuates and then set up my tune session. Along with a million small items to get it totally finished but that isn't related to the ECU. Here is my latest log, if you notice anything else I can improve on. It still is a little slow to start on cold start and doesn't start super smooth. After a second of running it clears up and slowly lowers rpm as it warms up as intended. Is there an easy way to test the boost solenoid other than building boost? I want it set at 5psi until I get to the tuner and then I will target 8-9psi for now and late raise it to 15ish. 1-12-20 working cams.pclr Log 2020-01-12.llg
  15. Thanks. Is the A-24 pin the corrent pin for Sensor ground and how many sensors can be on that ground at once? I'll pull the rest of the harness apart next weekend and search further. I am positive it's the same resistor as the others and the correct resistance.
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