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mjb214

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  1. Gotcha, I'll check it while the car is running and get that ironed out. I didn't type in that We had a jumper in there but didn't have the right wires to be able to have it all go. I'll look for some other wire to try and make it work better and have them in line. Next I'll be finishing vacuum lines, and getting the coolant lines hooked up. Then fabricating the intake/intercooler piping and buying/mounting the intercooler. Then re wiring the gauges and hopefully off for a tune. Still lots to do but felt great to hear it run. Anyone have a base timing table they can shoot me for a turbo 2GR? I haven't messed with tuning much but mine looks way too advanced. I'll be having a real tuner do the real work, but I want to get it able to drive onto the trailer and test out to make sure everything is good before I start paying for someone's help.
  2. Adam, you were right. I didn't think that would matter for start up and was planning to do it later but it the spark stayed steady at 10 BTDC so I gave it a go and it started right up. Here is the new trigger scope and also the log from the first idle. I don't have coolant lines hooked up so I only let it idle for about 20 seconds. Can you take a look and see if anything stands out in the logs? It says the ignition timing is outside limits, I had set a 25 BTDC limit. When I checked with the timing light it was at 10 before I started. I had to unhook the light to reinstall the coil for the run so I couldn't check it during but I am missing something in the software? Also the turbo was not connected to the intake so the MAP should be reading a vacuum. it says 4-5psi. is this reading in psia or is it psig? I assume PSIA since it is absolute pressure but figured I should ask anyway. Thanks for the insight. I have a video of it running but wouldn't let me post it. Here is a link if that works. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1U_2_66uP-Hw3DhI8Lr6pry-2W-qaUpnx 2gr-fe turbo mr2 base.pclr Log 2019-03-4 2_11_37 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2019-03-4 1_40_31 pm.llg
  3. I was able to get up and work on it some more today. The spark seems to be changing after 1 or 2 sparks could it be set to the wrong number of teeth on the Crank AS? I took a scope and it looks like the Cam trigger is not working correctly, I had issues in the past with the wiring directions I paid for having a lot of stuff backwards, could it be because the + and - are swapped on either trigger? Could it be ground noise? ( I plan to follow the ground line back and verify it doesn't have anything T'ed into it that shouldn't be. It also seems to stop sparking after 4 or 5 revolutions, could this be the computer realizing the spark is erratic and shutting it off due to being way out of timing? When I set the timing per the first fire the it keeps moving each time. In case the trigger scope didn't save right I took a jpg of what it looked like. 2gr turbo mr2 base.pclr Trigger Scope Log 2019-03-2 1_35_20 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2019-03-2 12_29_44 pm.llg Trigger Scope Log 2019-03-2 12_30_36 pm.llg Trigger Scope Logpm.llg
  4. Thanks for the clarification, makes sense
  5. CJ, I calibrated it a few times, I'll go back and do it again on Monday. I am running 93 Octane and most likely will stay with 93. I'll look into changing the crank enrichment and see if it helps. For the ISC I am just trying to get this started and idling to get it to the tuner who will actually know what he is doing. Is there some basic things I can set up in there myself? I pulled it up and it looks like Open Loop - E throttle is what I would want to work with. I can ignore fan, power steering and park for now I assume since they won't be relevant as I am not letting it warm up yet, the power steering is electric, and it's a manual. The A'C is not hooked up yet so also not a concern for now. The tables seem like where I should start but what are some reasonable values. The temp has been variable here 32F to 55F (0C to 13C) but it is slowly warming up here. (Virginia, USA) I will certainly run the Trigger scope on Monday and re calibrate the throttle. The timing mark I checked with the light so it should be at 10 BTDC and that is how I set it in the software or so I think. It is hard to see as this motor wasn't intended to be in an MR2 but should be within a few degrees and shouldn't stop it from starting. I'll be fine tuning everything with the tuner.
  6. I will be back to the shop Monday and will run the trigger scope. It's about an hour drive, wish it was closer so I could step outside and run it quick for you. I tried several around the 150 range with no luck. We put a jumper spark plug wire on the number 1 cylinder for the timing light. It appeared to be right at 10BTDC when I stopped but the mark wasn't shown every flash and I didn't want to just keep cranking on it. We did 2-3 seconds each try and then change the timing and tried again. We tried maybe 15-20 times at various angles. I don't have my pullup resisters wired in yet if that might cause errors, I didn't see any errors coming up on the screen.
  7. I didn't want to start another thread so I am going to continue the work here. I ended up fabricating the whole exhaust before trying to start it again and working out a lot of other small details. I tried starting it again today and just couldn't get it going. I believe I got the Crank Angle to be at the correct 10BTDC with the timing light, it took 205 in the calibration adjustment to get there. I feel like either the injectors or the ignition is not correct. I took a log and have the map attached. Is there something obvious? Thanks for the help, let me know if you have questions. I'll be digging through the help files as well. -Mike 2gr-fe turbo base 2-27-19.pclr Log 2019-02-27 1_34_43 pm.llg
  8. Yes I think it's a 23 degree angle tilt of the motor which is awkward. Also the number 1 cylinder is under the intake manifold. I stuck the gun way down by the pulley and just kept changing the adjustment until it showed up. I had a fuel leak and a back fire which lit on fire. Fire extinguisher was handy but will have to pull all the wires off and recheck to see if anything is damaged. Not to mentioned the fire extinguisher dust everywhere. I believe we got it to 10 BTDC by using 190 degrees as the adjustment. It still seemed off but the light showed it correct so once I sort out any damage my friend is going to stop by and see if we can figure out why it still isn't firing up.
  9. Great thanks. I'll change it back to falling and try changing the offset a few times. Glad I don't have to manually check the Crank angle, it's a pain to get the AC compressor off.
  10. I rechecked most things. I put a camera wire down to check the Crank sensor but the wires are wrapped so I couldn't check. The coils all work now, but the timing is off. I didn't have a good way I could think of to hook up my timing light as I have only used it with spark plug wires. Do you pull out the # one and put a jumper wire in between the coil and the spark plug? Here is the log (let me know if the log works this time). I noted that the Trigger2 for the 1 Cam Sensor was set to Falling and the help file says rising. So I changed that but it still was firing way off. It could even be 180 off, next time up i'll pull off the AC compressor so I can get to the Crank Angle sensor and check to see if the wires are correct there. Any other ideas I should look for? Log 2018-10-18 test.pm.llg 2GR-FETest10-18-18.pclr
  11. Yea, I'll be rechecking everything now. It's a good learning experience I guess even though it's wasted about 3 months since I can only work on the car every so often. You guys have certainly saved the day so thanks a ton.
  12. You're Right. I pulled my stock 2GR harness out and it's backwards. That is incredibly annoying since I didn't do the connectors I paid a bunch of money to have the connectors and the wiring diagram made since this was my first time wiring a standalone. And now I will have to check every connector. Thanks for helping me figure this out so far the two major issues were the TB wired backwards and the Coils wired backwards both of which I paid someone else to do. I'll go through and compare all the other connectors to the stock harness for correctness and hope there are no other issues.
  13. I have the red wire (pin 1) in the right most part of that connector when looking at it as shown in the photo. attached is the wiring diagrams from the 2016 Toyota Avalon (donor car) B36 is coil 1 for reference. As I understand this matches how I have it wired, hope I didn't misinterpret it !
  14. They have power to pin 1, ground to pin 4, and trigger to pin 3. Pin 2 is empty but I believe that is just a error pin for the stock ecu. I checked and the power and ground are both working, I did run the grounds all 6 coils to one ground on the chassis. The coils are the stock 2GR-FE coils.
  15. I was finally able to get back to the car. I have not been able to get the coil's to fire. They have full voltage and ground but when I put them to test I don't hear it firing. Also the coils were heating up quite a bit, I would guess like 110F degrees to the touch which seems too high to me. Is it pulling too much power? I was trying to do some research but couldn't figure it out. I attempted to take a log while the car was cranking. Hope I did it correctly 2GR-FETest10-18-18.pclrLog 2018-10-18 test.pm.llg
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