mjb214

Could it be the closed loop ftrim? it has a limit of 15% which aligns with what you are seeing. Should I pull fuel out of the fuel table to make it fall within the 15% or do I raise this. It seems to me that pulling fuel out at idle on the fuel table would be better and try to stay in the middle of the lambda targets.

Thanks that really helped a lot, the idle is so much better. Here is the updated tune/log from today with these changes made. I charged the battery up before doing this, I had swapped to a higher output alternator but still seems to not charge enough. I'll investigate that further another time. I also did a recal of the eTB before starting it to see if that was not right. It seems to hit 100% throttle at 75% pedal still so I'll recal the pedal next week as well to see if that was out of whack. There should not be anything obstructing it on 0 or on 100. Do you think it is still idling too rich? I changed the two cams that were not showing zero until they hit zero think it was LH exh and RH exh. Any other advice would be great Log - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oQVV9WocHnutQURNrq05pg24bMh0EWZG/view?usp=share_link Tune - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kh229pdMl5rroluMpmOnGrCMuxRg-iI0/view?usp=share_link Edit* There was a pretty solid backfire right near the end of the run ~42:40minutes. I was reviewing the logs to see and it looks like it goes from 29 degrees timing to zero then back and then again it hits 5 BTDC ~43min. So something is overriding the ignition table but I can't figure out what it is.

I have been trying to get the idle to smooth out and have the cold start and warm up run smoother. I have gone through several iterations of log and edits. The car was dyno tuned and other than the idle drives fine. At startup sometimes there is surging in RPM enough to stall occasionally, at warmup there is sometimes surging of 100-150 RPM. Are there any settings or things I should be looking at to smooth it out on warm up and hot idle? Log link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xkbDpnOuDXDYgQ3ZnvmQybZFQb3Vh9w2/view?usp=share_link Tune link - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BSN7T1yl8a1C-kcXck8bSj50MUgaew7B/view?usp=share_link Car information 92 MR2 - 3.5L V6 - 2GRE-FE with a single BW Turbo 525cc Injectors I have additional Logs and other tunes as well, this was my last attempt Thanks you for help/advice

It didn't work still, so I went and borrowed my neighbors Blue tooth Dongle and his worked on my phone and with torque pro on the tablet but not with realdash. I was able to get realdash working on my phone but the android head unit just wouldn't get anything. So something in the app on the android head unit is having issue with talking the the dongle that came with it. Go figure. Either way I am figuring it out, so thanks for the help. I might need to give in and not use realdash or buy a different dongle

Ok I'll try that in the next day or two. I had tried both of them before without any success. I thought I had gone through both Can 1 and 2 at several bit rates and then started messing with the channels.

The OBDII is wired to the CanH and CanL on the ECU main connectors. The OBDII is wired per the diagram with two signal grounds, Bat + and the two Can wires from the ECU. I was just trying everything and left off on making that generic dash stream to try that. So that is not in use in any way My USB is connected to the round port currently so I can plug in for logging/tuning. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKmQ3nrHSkXphSYu50FkUm8DccCeZF5-/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gJgXASEv3rNaVHh4exIujzUPyIlVEqLU/view?usp=sharing

Just got the car dyno tuned. I gave it another shot to get realdash to communicate but still couldn't get anything. Latest attempt attached if you could let me know if I am doing something wrong. The OBDII is wired and a bluetooth dongle attached. The bluetooth piece came with the android head unit I bought, it shows up as connected on the tablet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sx2QtgtnbvrPJ46J5qdjyZrknfixaDy6/view?usp=sharing

Thanks, I will raise the map limit slightly and do some more testing. Here is the tune. I have the RealDash as setup for OBDII (i had it as link but saw some other post you did saying it should be OBDII). I'll check what the settings are and add them to this later today. Here is the latest tune I am using, I was trying to change the baud rate and various settings but couldn't get any to work. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing Edit... The Realdash was set to automatic. Let me know if you can take a look and what it should be set to. Thanks!

Yea I was searching and some post I found said it starts to control ign at .2bar under the limit. That seems reasonable, I just was confused if I was missing some other limit. My next issue is I have the OBDII wired up to the Can 2h/2l and have a blue tooth dongle plugged in. I can't get any data to stream to my android head unit running real dash. I have it set to bluetooth in the realdash settings and thought I had it set up correct in the link. Next week I am going to borrow a friends reader and see if it's my blue tooth dongle or if I am doing something wrong in the can settings.

I have been doing some more road tuning prior to my dyno session to be sure everything is working properly. I am seeing the car hitting the MAP limit before the actual set value. In the attached log file at 4:47 timestamp the MAP limit activates but it shows a pressure of 24.2psia and the limit is at 27.0psia. I was looking to see if IAT or ECT would effect the MAP limit but when I graph it that also holds at 27.0. What is causing it to activate before the actual targeted value? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1blAtDJ_xAE1zpMkli7h2hnG9eOPvrYnq/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BB6TGB-5U1HiRzlRnEvL_KpeXdYY3Iyq/view?usp=sharing

My dyno session is scheduled for Nov 11th. I did about 10 iterations of taking it for a drive and looking at the logs and leaning out the fuel in small steps. How does this look? Still rich but it drives without falling on it's face when floored. Anything you would change in the fuel map or timing? During the log I kept pulling over and making small changes, so the last time on the throttle was the most refined. I made some more tweaks but haven't tested it yet. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TX3LKYMq8NiQ4xqQ_t6kOP48UqmMyxBn/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlKziHcrKNVSZWtQzzqvUqUSqBxWjlOV/view?usp=sharing I was expecting way more fuel required as boost kicked in, but it didn't seem to follow that trend. Is there something I am missing or doing wrong?

Ah ok, Yea Cause I watched it operate in the log. How would you set the axis up, the one he has by TP and the other by MAP. Wouldn't they both want to have the same criteria. Or does it operate fine in 2D by RPM. I always thought they were just controlled by RPM only.

Yea I could smell the richness and saw the AFR but was more worried about wasting the day at the tuner if something is wrong that i could address now. I'll get it updated, thanks on that. and I'll ticker around and see what I can deduce happened to the VVT, I didn't change anything on purpose since the first tune and I thought it was working then. I saved the MAP right after he tuned so I might just backdate it.

I was able to get the boost down by zeroing out the WG duty cycle. It appears to be holding 6-7psi which is good for now. The car under acceleration hits a wall at ~3k rpm and just barely goes up after that. when we did it in 5th is pulled fine. I put every parameter I could think of and I don't see any limiting issues. For example at time stamp 20s it just hits 3rd and with it floored for 5 seconds it goes from 3k rpm to 4.3k rpm. The dyno came in at 339whp @ 5psi. Since then I cut the intercooler apart and deleted the plastic intake manifold and made the intercooler into the manifold. Second issue is at idle there sounds like a misfire every few seconds along with a high idle and bouncing revs sometimes. I plan to set up another dyno now that I am done changing things in the engine bay but I want to sort out everything possible before since it's a 3 month backlog on the dyno. I could stream data and do a teams call if that would help. Below is the link to the log and the map file https://drive.google.com/file/d/1p7iw39-WjZm8o3QX28_wnYuQHohxu01a/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1q7fpgL3YanhOk71HkajuQMilG2whIIhf/view?usp=sharing

The blue light is blinking, with no key in. The fuel pump charges for about 2 seconds when I plug the ECU in. So that is at least one of the issues, hopefully the only one.

Ah, thanks. That is awesome you can show fuel/ignition cut I'll go replicate that myself to learn. I'll have to see when the bypass valve is opening, maybe I have too much preload on it so it isn't letting the exhaust around. Off topic. I have two battery drains I am chasing and one is ~.35 amps and stops when I pull the ECU plug out (connector A). The other is car related. Is that too much for the ECU to be pulling when the key is not in the ignition? I also installed a android head unit and downloaded realdash. I put in a blue tooth OBD II dongle and got it to sync but haven't gotten any gauges to work yet. I'll go back through your earlier posts to try and sort that out. Just an update.

It's been a while. So here is the updates. The car made it to the Dyno. I am struggling getting water flow from the intercooler pump, still sorting that out but was able to tune it in around 4-5 psi @ 340 WHP with no other issues. I sold my house and moved and decided to make a custom intake manifold that uses the A@W intercooler and bolts directly to the lower intake manifold and the TB bolts to the intercooler. All came out great but took months to make. I finally got it all back together and took the car out today and was having some abrupt throttle cuts under full throttle. Felt like spark cutting out, I had the log running but most of the log is driving around the neighboorhood making sure everything was ok. In the log 11:00 timestamp. I was looking through here but wasn't sure how to tell if the spark cuts or injectors or TB causes it. Anythoughts? I can take some more logs and make them shorter so it's not so long if that helps. Thanks! Top link is the Map bottom link is the log. https://drive.google.com/file/d/14sWWImVF0n_Lmx62hUsGj6HX0EaKoO3l/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DBaCiZmLzDq9QrlpeNIug-7JXUcf1g0-/view?usp=sharing

I ordered one of the 3 wire alternators, what showed up had the name plate filed off so I couldn't verify which it was. I took a chance and put it on anyways and it still seems to be charging too low. Maybe the wire is too small from the Alt to the fuse box? Here is the log where I was able to give it a little throttle and test it. I swapped in a 5 psi spring waste gate. The log and Map are below. Still waiting on any additional info on the Tablet hookup. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aF20yqVct_TDBwg3sndhe51aJFdmx51e https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jnx2LrePBZumpl9jbOl0uhfr3O3pKC__

Confirmed it is the alternator charging low because of not having the 4th wire input. I have ordered a 3 wire alternator to swap out. I saw a drop of coolant so I think that is the overheating. I didn't have any time to work on it and didn't see any egregious spot for a boost leak but i'll keep looking. Adam, Any more information on the android tuner installed tablet you mentioned? I'd like to consider that option, It needs to fit in my window area 7" x 3.75" and needs to have two input spots so I can try to make everything work. Do I need to run the OBD II port near it to hook into, or would it run off the serial port to the ECU?

Thanks. I'll have to check for a part number. The motor came form a 2016 Toyota Avalon which accordingly to Toyota parts online Toyota Part No.: 27060-0P141. The way it is wired is based off the diagram I paid for which has proven to be wrong about 10 different times now. But is as follows and is listed as a 4 wire in my notes from him. Keep in mind these labels are from the guy who did my diagram. Pin 1 - White - Alternator Sense Input - to EA 3 - Pin 17 Pin 2 - Red - Power Main - to EFI main (this is to the two post connector in the stock MR2 fuse box in the engine bay just as it was before. Pin 3 - Empty - Alternator load monitor. Pin 4 - Alternator warning light - Yellow/Orange - To EA 3 - Pin 4 From the video I take away that the 4 wire is not ideal for the swap and I should look to put a 3 wire in. So perhaps my alternator is working but it just won't charge more than the 12.5 we are seeing in the log ? Thoughts?

I'll check the alt, I thought it was working before and I haven't put a charger on the battery in the last handful of times idling. The boost leak makes sense, but it is able to go pretty deep vacuum. I'll look around next time I am up to try and see what I can find. Once I confirm the Alt/Boost Leaks. and Get the lower boost canister spring in I think that is enough front work to have the tuner take it and actually do some good tuning. Anything on the earlier post questions about the tablet you said came tuner ready? I haven't found anything like that available. I have been looking for tablets around 3.75 x 7 that have two charge ports to work with. I think there are only a few options.

I was able to drive the car and took a log. It's too big to attach so here is a GDrive link. The second link is the Map the first is the log. Let me know anything you see. The fuel map is not very smooth, the car felt fine. I was surprised boost didn't build more as I could hear the turbo pretty good. The sun was way too bright to read anything on the surface tablet I was trying to use to tune in the car so I took the log in hopes to fine tune it later. I believe a air pocket in the coolant was causing the temps to rise so we cut the drive short and bled the system again but didn't take it back out. The fans weren't turning on so I disconnected the temp switch on the radiator and they came on so I think that sensor is bad and have ordered a new one. Any direction you can give on the log and on my earlier post on the tablet would be great. I am scheduling the tuner once I confirm the coolant system is working properly. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Fhn3bkbKADmy-0ATJtMBXeEILS_W5if8 https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jo72X3IbS4BgZZDKhbM35I-j-hPB3qm7

Hope you all are safe. Any thoughts on my last post? As another update I swapped in my Tein Coilovers but didn't have time to drive it again.

I didn't realize a tuner built in was an option. I have a 7 x 3.75 window in the stock bezel for a display. I can slightly shave this to a larger amount but would like to keep it stock size ish. I planned to exposy or solid mount it to the bezel just like in that video I posted. I would like the radio to work, the speakers to work, the gauges to work. And if possible tuning. So you say there are options designed for this? Where should I search and can I narrow it down by size and inputs? I'll do some research tomorrow night or Monday but if you have something in mind that could jump start me that would be great. As another update I drove the car for the first time. The transmission worked, I did not remember the latest tune which the throttle response was improved with your help so I will add that next time. There were no issues on the drive, I did not have a long enough cord to have my laptop with me so I kept the rpm low and out of boost. Very exciting to drive it after 2.5 years of work.

Yea I think that meets what I need. There is still a lot I am unsure on. It appears some people have been able to convert the antennae to a USB input. A 4 way USB hub then brings it to the tablet? I am sure I am missing some details here. The realdash website really didn't help me much, and they do not have many posts on their forums. What I was hoping for is a list of things required. Does this need to go USB C -> the port on the ECU? Or is it OBDII to USB C. Or something else converting it. When I connect the Tablet to it does a simple USB splitter work so I can bring the radio signal in? Or does a tablet with a separate power port needed? I believe most Tablets run on 5V so I assume I am pulling off of 12V dropping it to 5V. I saw there were some 3rd party apps to help with tablet power. meaning it will power off when not charging and auto power on, leaving a few second window disabled so going from ACC to start doesn't cut it off. Any other nuances to be aware of. I will still have my dash so I don't care so much about RPM/SPeed, but I very much care about AFR, Boost, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, and some other inputs likely. The post you made has a lot of good info but it's difficult to dig through and get a clear image. I am sure my basic wiring skills aren't helping, I spent quite a while digging on the internet and didn't find any one place with good info but a lot of partial things. I started pasting them together. I'll be up at the car tomorrow taking a look at it and measuring for tablet sizes.