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Richard Hill

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Everything posted by Richard Hill

  1. ah OK, that pin is unused on the Xtreme, it is An Volt 12 on a Thunder and Lambda function on the Fury and GDI. You could pop the pin and wire out and keep as spare.
  2. What pin does it go to ? If its pin 31 on the B plug then its AN Volt 10 (White/Blue)
  3. You could use The Toyota supra map as a start, it's for a 1jz so not a million miles away. Check ignition settings wasted vs direct. I'm guessing your engine was e throttle which would have controlled the idle and has been converted to manual. You will need to set the base screw on the main throttle to give you cold idle, and then set up the idle ignition table. It can be a bit tricky to get good idles at cold and hot without an ISCV but it is doable. You'll probably need to bit a bit more aggressive with the values in the idle table. Add 2 lines to the idle table. One for cold and one for hot, these will then give you the span of engine temperatures. HTH Richard.
  4. If you are using an An Volt input for the Lambda, change the error low and high to 0 and 5 Volts. This will disable error checking on the input. Also, from the help file :- "On ECUs running firmware version 5.6.0 or newer, Fault Codes can be cleared by holding throttle position above 80% for ten seconds at key on with the engine stalled. Ie hold throttle open when turning on the key but dont start the engine, do not release the throttle until fault codes are cleared (at ten seconds after key on). Starting the engine or closing the throttle during the first ten seconds after key on will cancel clearing of fault codes." HTH Richard.
  5. What os are you using ? If it's windows 7 then you will need to install version 5.6.5 first and then 5.6.6 , there is an issue with the latest usb driver and windows 7. HTH Richard.
  6. What's the voltage across the battery terminals with ignition on and then cranking?
  7. I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...
  8. Disconnect the alternator completely electrically and then Run the engine with logging turned on. Also, try disconnecting any other potential sources of noise such as ISCV etc. Also, try connecting the wideband output and sensor ground to a multimeter (with it disconnected from the jetski) and see if the output still fluctuates. HTH, Richard.
  9. Ah, I didn't know it was that low a frequency. Have you any more info on the pulse width (or is it soley frequency dependant) vs ECT relationship?
  10. I have used a PWM aux out several times to control factory gauges (only the analog input ones, you will need to create a packet stream for the can bus gauges ). The damped ones work better as the needle doesn't pulse. Choose a frequency and then slowly increase the duty cycle until you get full scale deflection. Then setup you axis to map from whichever parameter you are displaying to the PWM duty cycle required for that reading on the gauge. If the gauge requires less than 12 volts for full scale deflection , you can either use a voltage reg. Or a current limiting resistor. HTH, Richard.
  11. Yes it is possible to spark without an igniter. I even had a car which actually just ran (barely) without an ignition amplifier.
  12. Hi, Any update on serial stream availability for current storm ecu? Thanks.
  13. Richard Hill

    Software help

    yes as long as its running windows 7 or greater (Windows 7 requires version 5.6.5 first )
  14. It doesn't need to go near the load. It is protecting the switch contacts so closer to the relay is better.
  15. Yes, it's exactly 100 Ohms, I will try a normal aux out, but at the moment while tuning I have the tacho turned off. We will turn it back on when we've finished tuning. Thanks.
  16. You can't pwm a fuel pump with only a standard ssr, they are not able to drive an inductive load. You will need a fuel pump controller or a circuit designed to pwm inductive loads. Something like this would be suitable :- https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/power/smart-low-side-high-side-switches/automotive-smart-high-side-switch-profet/power-profet/bts50010-1tad/?redirId=103222
  17. Can high and low is all you need to communicate. It is a differential bus which is resistant to noise. The dash can be powered independently. The grounds may well be shared though as the chassis is effectively the ground reference.
  18. Hi, I have a storm running a rover V8, all was fine until I installed a relay coil to drive the tacho (on a spare ignition output). Since then I have continuous failure to connect to the ecu with comms dropping randomly, lots of failed to store messages. As soon as I turn off the tacho function the problems seem to stop. Is there a recommended way to use the relay coil to drive the tacho without the interference with the comms? Thanks, Richard.
  19. Are you running Windows 7? If so, you will need to install pc link 5.6.5 to get the USB driver to install (there is a bug in 5.6.6) and then install 5.6.6 over the top.
  20. Richard Hill

    G4+ Bluetooth

    I also have the android version of the server which allows you to connect the ECU to your phone and control it from anywhere using the client.
  21. Richard Hill

    G4+ Bluetooth

    As Adam mentioned, the micro usb only powers the WiFi module. You then plug the ecu in via the usb port below using your tuning cable.
  22. The engine is a Renesis 13B-MSP , does this use the standard Link RX8 trigger setup ? Thanks, Richard.
  23. Richard Hill

    G4+ Bluetooth

    The only problems I've seen have been due to firewall issues, if possible, try connecting with firewalls temporarily disabled. Also, try ticking the reverse connection option.
  24. Richard Hill

    G4+ Bluetooth

    I got mine from ebay, try searching for "dc 12v to 5v USB" The WiFi module I use is USB powered This is a short range WiFi module, I have used it over a couple of metres through a fibreglass bulkhead or about 5 metres clear line of sight. If you need more range then a different module with a higher power output and possibly an external aerial would be needed.
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