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Richard Hill

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Everything posted by Richard Hill

  1. The engine has a crank sensor (Trig1), a cam sensor (Trig2) and 2 VVT sensors (inlet) one for bank1 (DI1) and one for bank2 (DI2). I am using the standard 1uz VVT trigger pattern, engine is bog standard. It has once started a lot quicker, but most of the time requires 5 or 6 crank revolutions to start. As CJ suggested, I will have a look at the logs and do some measurements of the time to trigs active from first crank.
  2. Good evening, I have a 1uzfe VVTi running on a Thunder, which runs great with all the factory features (DBW, ACIS etc). However, it is taking quite a few revolutions of the engine from first crank to start. I have tweaked the fuel for pre-crank prime and crank enrichment and none of them are improving the time to start. Is this just a symptom of the triggers and the time required to synchronise from the ECU? I have installed Link ECUs on engines which have started within what seems like one crank rotation. I would ideally like this engine to start on the first turn (it just sounds nicer when they fire up that quickly to a rock stable idle) Thanks in advance, Richard.
  3. The ECU is not "measurably doing it" (high side driving) , it has a weak pull-up on the AUX outs. A multimeter won't load the output enough to show that it can't supply the current required for a relay. I do agree though that there should be more concise documentation as to which ECUs can support high side driving as the help file released with 5.6.6.3601 a couple of days ago says :- "G4+ Auxiliary Output Specifications: · 1.5k Ohm Internal Pull-up Resister · Auxiliary Drive Low 2A over-current protected · Open Collector (fly-wheeled) in auxiliary output mode. · Aux 5 to 8 High Side Drive (ISC Stepper Mode) 0.5 A. · Aux 9 and 10 (only on: Xtreme, Fury, Thunder, Force GDI and selected Plugin ECUs) Push-Pull drive 4/4 A" I think this is ambiguous as the above bracketed (ISC Stepper Mode) isn't really a fully qualified statement. The monsoon for example has aux 5 and 6 but can't high side drive.
  4. 3100H is a pressure transducer with 1 to 5 Volt output, but there should be a longer part numbers to fully qualify the sensor type. The wiring should still be red +5 , black sensor ground .
  5. I have installed several can lambdas and its about 50/50 whether they work or fail with heating too long, undervoltage error and require a capacitor. There is no correlation with the vehicle wiring as we always install them as close as possible to the primary power source with 2.5mm^2 wire. Bizarrely, the bosch specification requires the heater voltage to be limited to 8.5 Volts on power up and ramped up at a maximum of 0.4 Volts/second so I would have thought these conditions could be easily met by any installation. I also have an ecotrons can lambda which I will be trying out soon, the only problem I foresee with that is the lack of encapsulation, I will have to print an enclosure. It does also support variable CAN speeds. The only thing lacking from both of these interfaces is a visual indication of the AFR, but I'm also working on that.
  6. Differential fuel pressure should stay constant. static fuel pressure - MGP = diff. fuel press. (Edited for correction, thanks Adam) This is a log from one of our customers cars whilst under load. It shows the differential fuel pressure remaining roughly constant while the Manifold pressure varies. Just an example of a referenced fuel pressure.
  7. Also, your fuel pressure does not appear to be properly MAP referenced as the Diff. Fuel Pressure does not stay constant, it drops non linearly with increasing boost... but as above, the fuel pressure is dropping way below acceptable values towards the end of the log. (167kPa). HTH, Richard.
  8. do you have any trigger errors? (F12 Run-time values, triggers) Try recording a log and post here with your map, that might shed some light.
  9. if you are running wasted spark, then you will have double the RPM indicated. Set the snap on to 0, and then use the timing offset adjustment in pc link to set the timing to the ref. timing . i.e. TDC or 10 degrees. Make sure you either use Q and A to increase/decrease timing or press enter after entering a value numerically. (Pc link will make a noise when the value has been stored) HTH, Richard.
  10. Go to ECU settings, then select the Aux you want to configure, double click on function and select Tacho from the drop down list. HTH, Richard.
  11. Yes, either will work, just select lambda1 for the corresponding input in the link software. You might need to connect the sensor ground too. HTH, Richard.
  12. Richard Hill

    Ecu hold power

    What vehicle have you got, and what ecu ? I am a big fan of hold power from a setup and tuning perspective as the ecu doesn't disconnect eveytime you cycle the ignition (most cars have a one shot crank ignition switch). It should work in your application if you set the hold timer to about 10 seconds HTH, Richard
  13. A simple, tried and trusted solution for earths is :- main engine strap goes from chassis to engine block (normally one of the engine mount points) Coil on plug earth goes from head to a splice to each coil on plug ground ( I usually use an inlet manifold bolt as this does create a very low resistance path to the spark plug earth strap.
  14. What ignition amps are you running between the ECU and the coils?
  15. Are you using the trigger calibrate menu which will lock the timing to the offset value ? As cj mentioned a trigger scope and a log would probably help
  16. If you're not using narrow band lambda you could nick the analogue volt for that off the main ECU header plug... The problem with temp. Inputs is they have an internal pull up resistor which is quite a high value, which will result in a low reading. If you can work around this then yes, although the calibration will show temperature, I guess you could create a custom calibration and ignore the temperature units. Calibrate as a percentage or maybe litres. HTH Richard.
  17. The GDI ecu has a dedicated output pin to drive a spill valve. You must use this, and set your peak and hold currents accordingly.
  18. Richard Hill

    Connection

    How are you powering the ECU? I'm guessing it needs power on pin A-11 +14V (Main Relay) and A-10 (Ground)
  19. Brilliant, that's useful to know. Thanks.
  20. Sorry, can you explain how? I didn't think you could connect to a newer firmware with an older version.
  21. Can you post a log file too? That would definitely help to see what might be causing the problem.
  22. Yes, that pinout looks correct, have you tried the following (no pull-up, the base map for the car with your sensor has pull-up off, but the 1-3 has pull-up on) Mitsubishi EVO 1-3 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr Mitsubishi EVO 4-8 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr the speed signal pin for your ECU is 66, (as opposed to pin 86 on the 4-8) HTH, Richard.
  23. What version of the 610 driver are you using? Intel released one about 10 days ago, might be worth trying. https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/98910/Intel-HD-Graphics-610 HTH, Richard.
  24. At the ECU end, white is can high or +, green is can low or -, connect these to the corresponding white CAN1+, and blue CAN1- at the dash end. HTH, Richard.
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