Richard Hill

To be honest, I've tried the ones above, they weren't good, the best ones I've found for the xl terminals are these :- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078WNZ9FW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Although I notice they are unavailable!

I don't think display link is the right protocol to use, you want Link G4.

If you have left the can lambda terminated then turn off the ic7 termination in the haltech software.

The find devices option is only for Link CAN Lambdas, it wont show any other devices. If the Link and the Haltech are configured correctly then you will see the data on the dash. If its not working, then have a look at runtime values in the Link software (F12) , and see if you have any CAN errors. I presume you have correctly terminated the bus (either IC 7 at end of bus with termination on and CAN Lambda termination disabled, or IC7 in the middle of the bus without termination and CAN Lambda terminated) HTH, Richard.

Can you double check can high is connected to the white wire on the can lambda and can lo is connected to the green wire. And also have you tried 500k in the speed setting as occasionally they can be set to this. HTH, Richard.

Ah ok, so maybe a voltage drop out then. Would it not have recovered when the alternator cut in though?

Also, try this CAN stream on ID 950, and then do a full log. This will help see some more of the CAN Lambda parameters. canlambda_test_stream.lcs

Your CAN Lambda is stuck in the calibration phase. Can you do is I suggested and power it from an independent source as a test. Is your Lambda sensor the one supplied with the CAN Lambda? Is it new? Does it come out of calibration phase if you log for longer?

one way to check if it is a power problem or not, is to connect the CAN lambda power and ground up to a separate power supply, usually a charged independent car battery works. See if there is any change. Failing that, i'm a bit stumped, although I would suspect Adam might be able to help in more depth. What does Lambda 1 status and Lambda 1 Error show before the engine is started? Include a full log pre start up too if possible.

Are you powering the CAN Lambda from a clean ignition switched +12Volt supply? And are you grounding it through a solid power ground?

Can you post your current map file please?

Have you tried 500kb? And are you sure your can high and can low wire s are round the right way?

CAN buses require termination at both ends. All Link ECUs are terminated inside, but CAN Lambdas are not terminated so will require a 120 Ohm resistor near the CAN Lambda connector between CAN high and CAN low. You will need to get this sorted first and then retest with find devices . HTH, Richard.

Do you see the CAN Lambda when you go to find device in the CAN settings? Also, the odd CAN Lambda is set to 500kb so you could try that speed and see if it makes any difference. Have you terminated the CAN bus with a 120 Ohm resistor at the CAN Lambda end? And make sure your CAN wiring is correct.

You have An Volt 9 set as Lambda 1. That needs turning off. You also don't have Link CAN Lambda selected in the CAN setup. (Also the CAN ID is not correct for a Link CAN Lambda, but that won't matter if you just select CAN Lambda from the drop down as your manual ID will be ignored). HTH, Richard.

From the help file, under CAN generic dash HTH, Richard. Although you will find most of the relevant flags under runtime values > Limits

The arming voltage settings won't have any significant effect on the time to start (unless they are way too high obviously)

There are several factors which can affect time to start. The main ones I have found are trigger pattern (also whether you are using a cam signal to sync) which can cause the ecu to take a full engine cycle. Some OEM and aftermarket ecus can start on wasted/banked and then switch to sequential which will aid faster sync. Also, fuel pressure at ignition on/pre crank prime (is there a one way valve in the fuel system). Are you referring to any specific engine/car config.? HTH, Richard.

Does your power steer runtime value go active when you move the wheel? Also, what is your power steer step set to? As mentioned above, it should be possible to get a nice idle with e-throttle and various transient loads.

you probably already have an intake air temp. sensor (or a charge temp. sensor). If possible, turn the ignition on with the G4+ connected to pc-link, and have a look at the runtime values (F12) , see if An Temp2 is connected or if it is erroring. You will need to cut the wire on pin 29 (which was narrowband o2), and connect that to the AEM wideband wire. If you look at the diagram I posted above (Nissan diagram) , you will see there are multiple grounds all connected. They are all internally connected inside the Link ECU so it doesn't really matter which one you use (although I would be inclined to use a sensor ground wire like pin 50 rather than a power ground wire)

Pin 50 is one of the grounds, there are a few other you can use on the header, or there is also a ground on the expansion connector. If you go into the g4+ software, then help, pinout, gtr link it shows the info there. Also, you could use a spare temp in for the oil temp (pin 7 or 8 on the expansion connecter) EDIT: looking at dx4piccos post, if there is no output, then what frequently works for me is piggy backing the temp sensor input wire into an analog Volt input (which doesnt have a pull-up resistor and shouldnt affect the signal too much as they are high impedance inputs) HTH, Richard.

First place to contact would be the dealer that supplied it, failing that try posting on the G4x forum

HTH, Richard.

Not a lot, under most conditions it will work perfectly, but the noise immunity will be reduced

As bsh mentioned above, the RS500 trigger pattern will work fine with stock distributor/crank sensor setup. The important thing is to make sure the TDC mark on the dizzy lines up (roughly) with the rotor arm at #1 TDC on the firing stroke, as there are 2 teeth on the distributor trigger and the ECU will have problems with the phase otherwise. If the distributor has never been removed then the phase sensor connector should be closeish to the cam belt (Stock position). standard offset should work but always worth checking with a strobe light. What ECU are you using? If you have triggerscope, then post the llg file here. If your are COP then the rotor/HT angles won't matter (but the phase position kind of does), if you are using original ignition then more care will need to be taken over the firing order and relative positions of the rotor > HT leads. HTH, RIchard.