Richard Hill

yes, pretty much as you say, the signal wire from each gauge needs to be connected to an Analog Volt input, whichever are spare. If the ECUs input impedance is high enough, then it wont affect the gauge reading. (I have piggy backed quite a few successfully) Then assign Oil pressure to the An Volt input and set to a spare calibration table. If the sensor has a linear response then select cal 4,5 or 6 and set the values accordingly. Do the same for Oil Temperature but it will probably have a non linear response so use Cal table 1,2 or 3 , and set the calibration to match what is displayed on the gauge. HTH, Richard.

Haven't looked at the map or the log as I'm on my phone but your max. inj. Duty cycle looks a bit high.

A CAN Lambda will draw up to 1.5 Amps during warm up phase and about 1 Amp to maintain temperature (in ambient surroundings). They must have a good, noise free power supply or if that's not possible, add an electrolytic capacitor near the CAN Lambda (I use 47µF). As Simon said, they really don't work if they are wired near an inductive load.

In PC Link, select ECU settings and then expand auxilliary outputs, click on Aux 5, then double click on function and in the new box that pops up choose Test (On) and then ok . The check engine light should come on. Change back to CEL afterwards, or don't store and it will revert back to CEL on the next power cycle.

Aux 5 should be the CEL, try turning it to test on to see if it works as advertised. It should be on pin D-15 HTH, Richard.

Aux outs are ground switched and when off are pulled up to 12 Volts , but with a high resistance , not enough to turn on a relay. I would say the fuel pump relay has been wired wrong previously , if possible, rewire the terminals so that 86 goes to ignition switched live, and 85 goes to the aux out. ( 30 is the supply voltage and 87 the output ) EDIT: just noticed you said it worked fine with the factory ecu HTH, Richard. I would suggest first disconnecting the ecu and ground the fuel pump relay trigger pin at the ecu header. Does the fuel pump come on ?

Can you post a triggerscope log, that might help identify the problem.

AN stands for analog. They are assigned in ecu settings. What ecu /vehicle/engine are you using? If you want to post the map here someone will take a look. Also, do the faults come back when you clear them?

I need to read thermocouple 1 and 2 values from a Thunder. Is it possible to add these to datastream ? At the moment my only option seems to be CAN bus. Thanks, Richard.

ah OK, that pin is unused on the Xtreme, it is An Volt 12 on a Thunder and Lambda function on the Fury and GDI. You could pop the pin and wire out and keep as spare.

What pin does it go to ? If its pin 31 on the B plug then its AN Volt 10 (White/Blue)

You could use The Toyota supra map as a start, it's for a 1jz so not a million miles away. Check ignition settings wasted vs direct. I'm guessing your engine was e throttle which would have controlled the idle and has been converted to manual. You will need to set the base screw on the main throttle to give you cold idle, and then set up the idle ignition table. It can be a bit tricky to get good idles at cold and hot without an ISCV but it is doable. You'll probably need to bit a bit more aggressive with the values in the idle table. Add 2 lines to the idle table. One for cold and one for hot, these will then give you the span of engine temperatures. HTH Richard.

If you are using an An Volt input for the Lambda, change the error low and high to 0 and 5 Volts. This will disable error checking on the input. Also, from the help file :- "On ECUs running firmware version 5.6.0 or newer, Fault Codes can be cleared by holding throttle position above 80% for ten seconds at key on with the engine stalled. Ie hold throttle open when turning on the key but dont start the engine, do not release the throttle until fault codes are cleared (at ten seconds after key on). Starting the engine or closing the throttle during the first ten seconds after key on will cancel clearing of fault codes." HTH Richard.

What os are you using ? If it's windows 7 then you will need to install version 5.6.5 first and then 5.6.6 , there is an issue with the latest usb driver and windows 7. HTH Richard.

What's the voltage across the battery terminals with ignition on and then cranking?

I moved away from using generic dash as it employs a compound CAN message, which can be a bit of a mouthful for both the ECU sending and the device receiving. I prefer to use messages which are split over several CAN IDs such as transmit generic dash 2. The only problem with Generic Dash 2 is there's appears to be a bug in the non driven wheel speed (1 byte assigned, but shows as 0-1000kph, guess the text was copied from generic dash). Not a problem though if you aren't planning on going more than 158 MPH...

Ah, I didn't know it was that low a frequency. Have you any more info on the pulse width (or is it soley frequency dependant) vs ECT relationship?

I have used a PWM aux out several times to control factory gauges (only the analog input ones, you will need to create a packet stream for the can bus gauges ). The damped ones work better as the needle doesn't pulse. Choose a frequency and then slowly increase the duty cycle until you get full scale deflection. Then setup you axis to map from whichever parameter you are displaying to the PWM duty cycle required for that reading on the gauge. If the gauge requires less than 12 volts for full scale deflection , you can either use a voltage reg. Or a current limiting resistor. HTH, Richard.

Yes it is possible to spark without an igniter. I even had a car which actually just ran (barely) without an ignition amplifier.

Hi, Any update on serial stream availability for current storm ecu? Thanks.

Possible faulty idle valve?

yes as long as its running windows 7 or greater (Windows 7 requires version 5.6.5 first )

It doesn't need to go near the load. It is protecting the switch contacts so closer to the relay is better.

Yes, it's exactly 100 Ohms, I will try a normal aux out, but at the moment while tuning I have the tacho turned off. We will turn it back on when we've finished tuning. Thanks.

You can't pwm a fuel pump with only a standard ssr, they are not able to drive an inductive load. You will need a fuel pump controller or a circuit designed to pwm inductive loads. Something like this would be suitable :- https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/power/smart-low-side-high-side-switches/automotive-smart-high-side-switch-profet/power-profet/bts50010-1tad/?redirId=103222