Richard Hill

Can high and low is all you need to communicate. It is a differential bus which is resistant to noise. The dash can be powered independently. The grounds may well be shared though as the chassis is effectively the ground reference.

Hi, I have a storm running a rover V8, all was fine until I installed a relay coil to drive the tacho (on a spare ignition output). Since then I have continuous failure to connect to the ecu with comms dropping randomly, lots of failed to store messages. As soon as I turn off the tacho function the problems seem to stop. Is there a recommended way to use the relay coil to drive the tacho without the interference with the comms? Thanks, Richard.

Are you running Windows 7? If so, you will need to install pc link 5.6.5 to get the USB driver to install (there is a bug in 5.6.6) and then install 5.6.6 over the top.

I also have the android version of the server which allows you to connect the ECU to your phone and control it from anywhere using the client.

As Adam mentioned, the micro usb only powers the WiFi module. You then plug the ecu in via the usb port below using your tuning cable.

The engine is a Renesis 13B-MSP , does this use the standard Link RX8 trigger setup ? Thanks, Richard.

The only problems I've seen have been due to firewall issues, if possible, try connecting with firewalls temporarily disabled. Also, try ticking the reverse connection option.

I got mine from ebay, try searching for "dc 12v to 5v USB" The WiFi module I use is USB powered This is a short range WiFi module, I have used it over a couple of metres through a fibreglass bulkhead or about 5 metres clear line of sight. If you need more range then a different module with a higher power output and possibly an external aerial would be needed.

I use USB over wifi for controlling my ECU remotely (my ECU is in the boot next to the engine so no long USB wires through the cabin). I bought one of these from amazon which work great and are cheap :- https://www.gl-inet.com/products/gl-mt300n-v2/ The hardware then needs reflashing with the virtual USB software:- https://www.virtualhere.com/hardware Powered with a 12V to 5V micro USB adapter, this gives you USB over WiFi, which should be significantly longer range than bluetooth. The Virtual firmware is available on a few different platforms so it may be possible to extend the range even further. HTH, Richard.

I have modded a JDM AE86 cluster to run with link. I piggybacked 1 resistor onto the input stage of the T2685A tacho IC (this method allows the mod to be easily undone if needed) and it worked fine. It is a bit fiddly as you have to strip down the instrument cluster to get to the PCB. The relay mod method is simpler but less elegant. Both will work fine. HTH, Richard.

Turn an volt 2 off, and then clear the fault code.

Link ECUs are for Motorsport use only...

I have piggy backed several sensors, pin the sensor signal wire into an analogue volt input. Select a suitable calibration type (often linear for pressure and table for temperature) , then run the sensor up as high as possible and note the calibrated reading on the gauge versus the voltage in pc link. Linear sensors will be ratiometric. For non linear sensors I create a spreadsheet and then curve fit the temperature data . It often exhibits a logarithmic response. HTH, Richard.

Try one of the subaru base maps that come with pc link. Find the one that's closest to your engine configuration. Then set your inputs and outputs(if you have these set in your current map, do a compare to help with the merge HTH Richard.

Unfortunately the monsoon doesn't have triggerscope. What base map are you using?

Try the gtr plug in basemap that comes with pc link, it's in the base maps folder. Then scale the master fuel to your injectors, which should get you in the ball park. HTH, Richard

Thanks for the info, does anyone know if an rx7 metering oil pump can be installed on an rx8 engine (13b msp) ? That way I could use the rx7 control strategy Thanks, Richard.

Excellent, thanks for the info.

Hi, We have a rover V8 engine in a TVR which is getting a storm ecu, and planning to run sequential fuel, wasted spark with coil packs and a 4 channel ignition amp. We are putting a 36-1 trigger wheel on and plan on grinding off 7 of the 8 lobes on the distributor shaft to give a phase sensor (also plan to lock the base plate). Is there any guideline as to which tooth to leave? Having looked at the help file, it looks like avoiding the trigger wheel gap is the way to go, should I leave number one in place? We will also have a bit of phase adjustment from moving the distributor body. Thanks in advance, Richard.

It varies from ecu to ecu but I have seen most of them drop out somewhere below 8 Volts. I think the comms goes first though so you might get a pc link disconnect before the ecu stops

Port 1 goes to air, port 2 goes to the actuator, and port 3 goes to your boost source. 0% in the wastegate table will be actuator pressure and 100% will be maximum HTH, Richard.

No, they are a bugger, and the thunder is the hardest! You can use a sacrificial bit of plastic (like a credit card) slid under one corner if you don't want to mark anything. Alternatively, if you're in a hurry a screwdriver will suffice (but will mark either the bracket or the ecu or both)

1. Has to be ignition switched live to prevent any back feed issues. 2. You can use either native auxs or spare igns, not all combinations are valid though. I usually go into pc link first and select the function I'm trying to setup on the pin I want to use just to check whether the function is available. The help file has an aux out allocation chart which should help. HTH, Richard.

I use virtual here to supply usb over wi-fi. It works really well, you get native usb so you can run pc link wirelessly. The module i use is a GL-MT300N-V2 which is about 20 quid. I then use a 12V to usb unit to power it. HTH, Richard.

Can you post a log of the start up? That would help. Also, check the idle valve isn't stuck, that's quite common. To free them up, we take them out, leave them connected and spray some penetrating fluid in, while setting the aux out to PWM test at about 10Hz. At a glance, I would increase your max. clamp in the idle speed settings, and also try a higher idle proportional gain. (although your idle screw might need opening a touch) HTH, Richard.