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cj last won the day on November 5

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  1. cj

    Low RPM during cold start idling

    This table here should have coolant temp as the X axis. bump up the numbers for the lower temperatures. The exact number depends on your idle valve type and throttle screw position but from your description the value at 70-80 deg is correct. it should increase roughly linearly as it gets colder. Best way to tune this is usually to start from dead cold, then tune each cell until you get the value you want, then wait a minute for the coolant temp to increase until you are centered on the next cell, then tune that one. This all assume that you have idle speed control enabled and set to open loop. If you try the above and it doesnt work as planned we will need a pclr file and log of it warming up to see what else might be going on.
  2. cj

    Misfire issues?

    I think it it might be mechanical - as in something non-ecu related makes the engine misfire. Looks to me like the first thing that happens during each of these events is that MAP rises by 10-15kpa, which would line up with either the turbo spooling a bit quicker or from a backfire up the intake. All the other changes we see (VVT target, fuel numbers, etc) come after this and are simply because the engine is operating a few kpa higher and therefore getting different values out of the tables. Have you checked that the plugs all look ok? leak down test maybe? Its entirely possible to have mechanical/electrical issues that only hit at a certain RPM due to resonant frequencies, the right amount of pressure on various components. Is your dyno capable of holding that same RPM but under more load? i'd be interested to see if the issue is still at the same rpm if you add in say 3psi more boost. The other thing in your log that is a bit weird is you have the knock level gains set quite differently for each cylinder, and with the gains you have set, cylinder 3 is showing as very noisy. Has all of this been tuned intentionally or is it just left over from a base map/testing things?
  3. cj

    2JZ Bosch 74mm DBW idle position table

    Did you have a mechanical throttle tuned with reasonable idle before you swapped to the DBW kit? There is no magic number for ethrottle idle and it depends what RPM you want to idle at, and how much ignition advance you have. More ignition = less throttle needed for the same RPM (and vice versa). Assuming roughly stock internals and ~15* timing, you probably want the throttle angle to be about 3-5% once warmed up, and up to 5% higher at 0 Deg. Before you even worry about fine tuning the idle base table, warm up the engine then zero out the idle table, start with your ethrottle target table: the top "0" row - you want somewhere between 2 and 4 in the columns around idle (500-1500rpm?), and either tapering out to 0 above 2-2.5k, or holding around 2% in that whole top row (depends on how much engine braking you want - zero's = more engine braking). The idea here is that once warmed up, the engine should be close to but just under normal idle rpm with the idle table zero'd out (much like setting idle screw on a mechanical throttle). You can only go in 0.5% increments in the throttle target table. you also want to turn off idle ignition control for now as it will confuse things, and make sure ethrottle idle is set to open loop. Now go to your idle base table that you zero'd out earlier, and set the value for the warmed up temp (80 deg C ish) to 0.3 or 0.5 or whatever gets you the idle you want when warm. set this same number for every temperature above 80 as well. Now add 0.5 for each 10 deg cooler than 80. so if your 80 deg idle number was 0.2, 70 would be 0.7, 60 would be 1.2 etc. This should put you in the ballpark but probably slightly high while warming up. Now turn it off and leave it overnight to cool. Once really cooled down connect a laptop, make it so you can see the rpm, target rpm, ECT, and the idle base table. Start the engine and wait ~5 seconds for post start enrich to drop off, then look at which temp you are at in the base idle table. wait until you warm up enough to be dead center of a cell then quickly change it up or down until the idle RPM is correct. Wait a minute or so until your temp is dead center of the next cell, then adjust that cell so idle matches what you want. Just sit there watching it warm up and adjusting the cells as you hit them. Once its fully warmed up, you can look at tuning ignition idle to make it a bit more stable. I wouldnt turn on Closed loop ethrottle idle though until the next firmware as there are currently some bugs in it where it will add in 0.4% throttle angle every time you get on the gas pedal at idle and can work its way up to being too high. You now have a pretty well tuned throttle angle for warm up. extrapolate out from your final values to anything colder than you actually tuned to complete the idle base table. Remember, if you change the ign angle at idle you may have to re-tune this.
  4. cj

    Mitsubishi RVR - Idle hunts & No aircon?

    Can you disconnect that just that 1 wire from either the ECU or the AC control and re-run the test (pull the wire out of connector you can get to) - measure both the output from the AC control and if there is any voltage on the ECU pin? obviously things wont work but I want to see whether that 9v is coming from the ECU or from the AC control
  5. cj

    2jz help fuel

    the ignition table itself has safe enough numbers to start up but like any turbo engine, you shouldnt push it into much load until you've got it tuned or have access to a knock detection system. Are you running a VVT engine like the map is configured for? your trigger1 offset you will need to check yourself with a timing light. There is a whole section in the help manual on pre-start configuration you should run through before cranking it over. Open pclink and press f1 and have a good read through all of the steps. How to run a trigger1 calibtraion is in there, but it misses the bit where you have to press enter after entering a number, so remember to do this.
  6. cj

    2jz help fuel

    you probably just need to change the master fuel value from 9 up to 11 or 12 as a starting point, then tune the fuel table from there.
  7. cj

    Master Fuel question

    Yeah about 12 should be approximately correct. Might need to be a few points up or down on that depending on how close the base + current numbers match the real values of the injectors, but your calculations are right.
  8. cj

    r33 gtr cylinder 1 spark plug fouling

    Did you run through the can lambda setup here https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf I can see the channel set up, but cant see the bit about assigning it to lambda1 because the ECU is not connected. your lambda1 values in the log are all 0 so it looks like something is missing. On second look at it, I can see the lambda1 error state bouncing around a bit. Have you double checked the wiring to the lambda sensor? If it is talking to the ECU, its not sending anything useful. While this is clearly a bit of a problem, its not likely to affect 1 cylinder more than the others. That injDC value turning red is normal. It just shows that its a changed value vs what it was. remember to save the changed value to your pc by pressing f2 (or file>save / save as) AND saving it to the ECU by pressing f4 (aka store)
  9. cj

    r33 gtr cylinder 1 spark plug fouling

    I cant see anything specific to cylinder 1 in that log. Is it only this 1 cylinder that is causing dirty spark plugs? Are you sure your injectors are all delivering the same quantity of fuel? 1 could be partially blocked or leaking and if the other cylinder are all a bit rich/lean the opposite way, the total engine lambda will look correct. As far as general things you might want to look at from that log: you dont have any lambda readings, that makes it really hard to guess where you are rich/lean. You have a speed input on DI3 of Left Front wheel, but in speed sources you have selected Left Rear wheel, so as far as the ECU is concerned you are at 0kph all the time which means anything speed dependent isnt going to work correctly - idle speed lockouts, traction control, gear detection, probably a few others. You have your second fuel pump set up to only turn on at 70+% inj DC, and it looks like you only hit 70% at about 7500rpm under full throttle - basically that second pump almost never gets used. Not sure if this is on purpose or not. - see at 51:22 for the only time this seems to happen. Looking at your fuel pressure logs, its starting to drop off by 5-6 kpa above 50% inj DC so maybe drop the cutover to 50% your VVT target tracking is pretty slow, and seems happy to stop moving when you are within 5-6% of target. This is going to make it tricky to get consistent AFR between runs as your VE will be slightly different. What sort of engine are you actually running? I'm not really a nissan guy but I thought variable VVT was only on the R34 RB25's but your title says its an R33 GTR.
  10. cj

    Thunder APS/TPS

    Have you had a good read through the aux output options table? These are out of date on occasion, but it says ethrottle 1 has to be on aux9+10 and ethrottle 2 on aux 17+18 As for the analog input thing, this section here implies that the circuitry behind an13-16 is slightly different than the lower analog inputs. No idea how its different but it doesnt look like just a bug. Cant you move something else over to one of these inputs and use a lower number input for tps?
  11. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    The K20z had a similar issue in that chassis because of the location of the engine mount. My fix was to align the factory marks by hand with the engine off, and then draw a new mark on both the pulley and engine block with a scribe and some white marker paint at an 8 oclock-ish location so I could see it easily through the wheel well with the right hand wheel removed.
  12. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    under ignotion main, change spark edge from falling to rising. Typically only honda coils and a couple other weird ones run falling edge coil trigger. The majority of coils work with rising edge. This should fix the coil temp and the failing to fire.
  13. cj

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Oh one more thing, are you running E85 in this engine? you've defined the stoich ratio for your fuel as 9.8 but it should be 14.7 for petrol. This wont be hurting anything yet, but might once you start using closed loop systems.
  14. cj

    Fury - What happens during idle?

    Your ignition table is in MGP, and doesnt go into negative. This means your ignition timing at anything non-boosted is effective a single row lookup. I notice it runs pretty minimal vacuum anyway, but you should still have this drop down to at least -30kpa as it seems your engine would use this at idle. Your fuel table numbers are very small, and your master fuel number is quite large - this doesnt "break" anything as such but it makes it very hard to get any resolution in your fuel table. eg you can only move from 12.0 to 12.1 and this might be quite a jump in injected fuel quantity. Try changing master fuel trim to 0, master fuel to 5, and then select the entire fuel table and type *4 <enter>. this drop your master fuel value to ~1/4 of what it is now, and multiples the table values by 4. The injected quantity will be the same but its easier to work with the fuel table now. It looks like the reason it stalls is because it runs too lean. healthy idle is probably 0.9 lambda and 1.1 is probably stall. Post start enrichment is keeping you going to start with, and when it runs out, your engine goes lean and stalls. Try bumping up your master fuel table a little bit (maybe from 5 to 6 once you do the step above) until it can keep running once post start enrich goes to 0. Then once you know what "stable" idle looks like, you can reverse engineer the post start enrichment numbers to stop the idle creeping up at the beginning but this temporary high idle is not your biggest problem right now.
  15. cj

    MR2LINK G4 V2 V3 pinout

    The intercooler fan is controlled by its own controller - the other smaller box next to the ECU. You'll see there is a temp sensor on the underside of the rear engine cover that also wires to this cooling ecu. The taillight relay and stop light switch are just for primitive electrical load detection. Properly tuned closed loop idle or ignition idle control means they arent needed. There are a couple posts in this thread around the EHPS control on SW20 pumps. short version is it will work pretty well with no ECU inputs at all, but you can add them for additional control if you want. the vss signal that adds/removes assistance is comes from the dash (as long as you still have a factory dash)