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cj last won the day on August 21

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  1. cj

    Need Help ST185 (3sgte) PnP

    I think youve got a wiring problem with your lambda sensor or a massive exhaust leak near the sensor, or if youve got a programmable sensor like an LC1 then you've got it programmed wrong calculating back to work out what your received voltage will be to give those readings, the 0.78 ish lambda number is 0.7 ish volt, then it jumps straight to 1.33 ish lambda which is about 4.7-4.8 volt. My money is on there being a voltage offset of about 0.2 volt because of wiring, and the lambda sensor output jumping from what should be 0.5v (min) straight to 4.5v (max). Your injector pulse width doesnt change between when its reporting 0.78lambda and when it reports 1.32 lambda so its not registering actual fuelling changes.
  2. cj

    EZ30R MAP

    The log says you had 3% ish of accelerator pedal for most of it. Is that correct? If not, you need to re-run you ethrottle calibration. As Adam says its requesting (and getting) ~14% throttle opening which is a lot for idle and will explain your 3k rpm idle. Your ethrottle APS>target table is only requesting ~3% but it looks like you have 10% additional angle coming from somewhere. Have you set the idle base position tabale to have 10% in it anywhere since you posted that map? What fuel pressure are you actually running? do you have a gauge on your regulator? the earlier map is configured to calculate fuel delivery at 285KPA but if you are running higher pressure than this, you will be gettign more fuel that the ECU expects and running rich.
  3. One of the reasons is not so much the main input feed, but the hot side of the trigger coil on a relay is typically fed by bridging from the main input. See this diagram from the link help files on aux output backfeeding Also, you dont typically want all 80-100amps of electrical load going through your ignition switch, so the hot side of most relays are fed from the battery directly. Put these 2 together, and it means you have permanent battery voltage to the hot side of both the switch part and the coil part of all of your relays. This means the coils will all be passing a limited amount of current through to the ECU even with the key off. Depending on a few things this may cause anything from minor "things dont turn off with the key", to more major "lots of current flows backwards through the ECU". A big purpose of a main relay is to detach the hot side of the coils from battery voltage when the key turns off. To this end, you could achieve the same thing by running the switch/bus side of the relays to the battery, but running the hot sides of the coils via the key (or the output of a relay further up the chain). You would want to check/calculate the current you expect to draw through the ignition switch though as well as that being drawn through the "top" relay if you chain a few together. There is a relationship between how much current the coil side of a relay will draw, and how much current the switch side will support. (see OEM designs for starter wiring - there is usually a starter relay in the wiring harness even though there is another relay built into the starter, basically the wriring harness relay is there to "step up" the amount of current available to drive the coil of the relay in the starter motor). To run the typical ECU/injectors/coils the usual 40amp relays are fine, but on a complete rewire you may be dealing with lights, large fuel pump, or potentially the starter relay which draw a lot if you put them all off a single wire/fuse/relay.
  4. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    I've got an ethrottle controlled k20z4 in an sw20 and came to the same conclusion that bridging into an existing wire near the engine was better than running a new cable from the battery. I spliced into the output from the IGN relay, so this still fed the coils but also fed into a new ethrottle relay, which then fed into the 14v ethrottle input pin on the ECU. This one has the biggest factory fuse so seemed like it would be the most forgiving to additional load, and evidently there is sufficient current coming through this wiring to drive the ethrottle correctly. In the f12 screen you can see the aux9/10 supply voltage listed If this drops a lot while running the tests then maybe you have a supply current problem. If this stays at 12+ volts, then you probably have something wired wrong. disconnect the throttle connector, put a multimeter on the plugs that should be to the throttle motor, then click test again. You should see +12v or -12v depending on which way its trying to drive the throttle. If it only moves a tiny bit, is it moving the right way? If you have the +/- config backwards you will probably only see it close from its default 5-10% back to 0% when its trying to open up instead.
  5. cj

    EZ30R MAP

    What you have there is actually a passable base map given you can start the engine with it. There are all kinds of small things but the biggest one is that you have what looks like a fuel table from a "traditional" tune but the fuelling is set to modelled. Try copying the numbers from the monsoon base map into your fuel table and try starting it again. You also have your injectors configured as 810cc @ 285KPA. factory injectors are 270 @ 300kpa if you are still running these. These numbers need to be accurate for modelled mode to work well. "smaller" things that you should also change: under fuel main>fuel system type, you have "none". This should match whatever you've currently got setup on your fuel rails. factory EZ30's changed from what was actually a MAP referenced regulator feeding returnless rails, to a true returnless system in either 05 or 06. you have no lambda input, this makes tuning MUCH easier. You dont have an intake temp sensor hooked up Probably turn off 4d fuel table and IAT correction (modelled mode handles IAT internally) you have nothing hooked up to trigger or read AVCS. Have a look at some of the Honda Vtec maps for methods of switching to secondary fuel and ignition tables for when this is activated. Run the VVT cam angle test process if you havent already - neither your trigger 2 or DI1 VVT offset match the expected ones from the help file. and it looks like you're running the same TPS signal to both TPS main & sub. There are 2 position outputs on the factory ethrottle motor, you should run 1 to main and 1 to sub.
  6. cj

    injector duty cycle %400 !!

    Your trigger error counter only goes up during the 1/2 second or so where your RPM jumps to an unrealistic value. Its almost certain you have triggering problems at this time. The trigger errors do not increase for the other 15 seconds of the log so its not that your trigger settings are incorrect, but more likely you have some sort of noise in the signal or maybe the crank sensor wired up backwards. A few of the toyota's run 36-2 reluctor triggers and if you have them wired backwards you get triggering issues just after 4000rpm, exactly like you are seeing here. Did you also have some kind of misfire about 3700rpm? your map signal moves by a couple points and the RPM looks to jump around by a couple hundred RPM as well.
  7. cj

    Circuit opening relay

    This guy has a good explanation of what toyota calls a circuit opening relay https://bluetwentyeight.wordpress.com/2017/04/24/circuit-opening-relays-on-toyotas/ Its just a normal relay that can be triggered by 2 different triggers. The wiring diagram for both 5s and 3s sw20's still shows it wired i as a normal "apply Ground from ECU to close the circuit" setup. The link ecu's can control the fuel pump just fine with a normal single relay. I'm guessing the old toyota ecu's werent able to handle "power on only when cranking or running or for a couple seconds to prime at key on" so they used this dual trigger relay setup - factory it has 1 trigger from the clutch kill switch or park/neutral switch, and the second trigger is that FC wire from the ECU, so either of these will make the pump run.
  8. cj

    rpm not stable and alot of trig1 error !

    Does it look like this? This is 36-2 even though there are only 32 standalone teeth The left and right edges of that big flat bit each count as a tooth as well.
  9. cj

    EZ30D JDM swap into Subaru 2.5rs

    Yep your timing could well be 360 out. That would mean you are firing at ~TDC on the exhaust stroke. A few backfire events when you stop cranking hints to this as well. Try adding or subtracting 360 from your trigger1 calibtraion number and try again. Have you also confirmed that inj1 and ign1 fire the same cylinder when in test mode, and that the inj# numbers match the correct cylinders when in test mode?
  10. cj

    Observations/Questions from new owner

    1 - yep thats relatively normal. It means interference affects the signals in opposite ways and allows better ECU level fault detection 2 - the lean or rich condition at any RPM (inc idle) is because of your fuel table, not (directly) your tps angle. Idle control is a mix of TPS angle and ignition timing. You can have lots of 1 and hardly any of the other, or somewhere in the middle with an average amount of both. There is a whole lot of logic to why you might do 1 or the other, but typically OEM's use lots of throttle angle and low ignition angle to help warm things up quicker as low ignition angle causes more heat. More timing gives you better throttle response (to a point). Typically on a modern japanese engine you would set ignition to between 10-20 at idle then find what TPS angle gives you the idle rpm you want. As well as the main ignition map there is ignition idle control which works on ia separate MAP + it reacts to idle target mismatches, and only kicks in under defnined thresholds - this is probbaly similar to what you are talking about. 3 - timing as far as the calibtration process goes is just telling the ECU what angle on the crank sensor matches what postition in engine rotation - eg its looking for a specific tooth or pattern on the crank wheel which it calls "0". The calibtraion process tells the ECU where its arbitrary "0" mark is compared to TDC/10 deg/whatever your base timing is. If your mark is at 10 deg, make sure you set the calibtration timing at 10 deg, then change the offset number (and press enter) until your timing light puts 10 deg on the block marking. 4- what you did for the timing check light trigger is correct. Dwell is the time it takes to "charge up" the coil pack prior to firing it. In the scheme of things this happens a long time before firing - eg dwell might be 3ms (3000us), but the time for coil discharge migtht be 50us. the dwell table tells the ECU how far ahead of time to start charging each coil pack. That 50-120 ish us offset in the calibtration window is where you account for the firing time. dwell changes mostly with available voltage, but can be shortened at high RPM mostly to prevent running into the tail end of the previous firing event. With individual coil packs this is bascially not an issue though (something like 15-20krpm before you overlap firing events at 2ms? its simple enough to calculate) 5 - you probably have an inconsistent idle position or fuel table. The sensor may have a fixed groudn offset depending on your wiring, but any fluctuations are almost certainly a truthful representation of current fuelling performance. 6 - i'm not really sure what you want to achieve here. throttle blip control is possible but a bit crude. It sounds like you're trying to integrate with some other systems but without info on why its hard to give you a good answer 7 - VVT control if tuned right can get you a lot more mid range torque. People do disable it if they dont have the ability to tune it and still get good results, but you are leaving something on the table by doing this.
  11. cj

    Mechanical TP main plus E Throttle 2?

    What are you trying to achieve by doing this? I guess it would work in that you could have 2x throttles being controlled approximately the same, but its going to be a much more reliable platform to buy a thunder with 2x ethrottle controls. Theoretically, you could wire up a mechanical throttle as if it were an accelerator pedal sensor, then have the ECU controlling the second throttle as if it were the only ethrottle. Problems with this are 1) you dont have idle control on the mechanical throttle at all 2) there will be some lag between mechanical and electronic but you can tune this mostly out 3) the ECU has to pick *something* to be the TPS value, and in this model that would be the ethrottle, so while you have control over both, there is basically no feedback from the mechanical one. OR you could somehow mount a TPS sensor or similar to the pedal as per a "real" ethrottle pedal, and then have TPS main from one of the throttle bodies and TPS sub from the other. You'd still have no idle control on the mechanical throttle, and you would probably have to disable all the ethrottle safeties (setup mode) because at idle the 2x signals wont match. You'd also have no redundancy in the ethrottle at this point because you only have 1 signal from each. If its 2 throttle bodies feeding a single manifold you *might* be able to sort a sensible idle strategy. If its 2x separate manifolds, you'll end up with different throttle values at idle and I dont see a way you can fix that.
  12. cj

    EZ30D JDM swap into Subaru 2.5rs

    There are 2 things to check here, first one is there is a "spark test" built into the ECU. run this against each coil 1 at a time and listen for the correct coil to click. This tells you that your wiring and cylinder numbering are correct. The next thing is that you cant accurately put a timing light around the low voltage COP feed wires. Even if it will pick up the signal (which it probably wont), it doesnt take into account the time it takes the coil to respond to a firing command. You need to get an old spark lead, pull the #1 coil pack out of the engine, then run that spark lead from the coil pack to the spark plug in #1. Put your timing light around this HT lead.
  13. cj

    EZ30D JDM swap into Subaru 2.5rs

    Your MAP calibration is off. Notice how in your log it says BAP = 97.9kpa? your MAP should read the same value (+/- maybe 1kpa). Yours is 10 off, so all the fuel/spark/etc calculations are going to be wrong. Your config shows a bosch 1.15 bar MAP sensor, is this what you have installed or is it the factory sensor? Try running a MAP sensor calibration (ECU Controls menu at the top) but I dont think it will allow this much difference. Base timing that AdamW refers to isnt mechanical cam>crank sync, it means checking that what the ECU thinks is TDC matches the mechanical TDC. You need a timing light to do this, and on an ez30 you'll need to paint some timing marks onto the front of the engine and the crank pulley as there arent any (good) ones you can use. There are probably 2 indents on the surface of the crank pulley, and when the second mark is straight up is tdc. You need to confirm this by removing the spark plug from #1 and putting a stick/screwdriver/etc in there to verify then paint some marks you will be able to see with a timing light on both the pulley and the block. You'll then need to run the calibtration process at 0deg, or use something to measure 15 deg or so and put a second mark on the pulley here so you can run calibration again with the engine running as it might not idle at 0deg timing.
  14. cj

    Warm Start Struggles

    It sounds like heat soak. Depending on the location of your IAT sensor, either your intake manifold and head soak up lots of heat from the engine but the IAT doesnt see it, or your IAT is in a spot where it picks up lots of warmth from the engine as it cools. One way or another, it means your IAT reading is quite different from the actual temperature of the air entering the engine. It could also be fuel boiling in the lines/fuel rail depending on where the lines are in relation to heat sources. This is only really likely to be an issue in a returnless system and it would have to be really quite hot.
  15. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    Heres a diagram. Transmission would be on the end next to 5+6. Bank 1 is the bank with 1,3,5 in it. In the link help files this will be the Right Hand bank. Other cams will be referred to as intakeRH, exhaustLH, exhaustRH. Left and right are based on if you rotated the engine to sit in a rear wheel drive (gearbox at the back) Have a read through the link help files for trigger wiring and config for these engines. You will need to wire+configure exhaust position and control solenoid if you want to control the exhaust vvt. The help files only mention intake cams so you'll have to figure out the exhaust side which should be similar. Remember only DI1-4 and aux 1-4 can handle VVT so you'll need to assign almost all of these pins to cam sensors+control (intake LH position will be on trigger 2 but you'll use up all the aux outputs for control circuits.) Regarding you AP/TP calibration, if you press f12 to see runtime values, do the AP main and AP sub values now match to within 0.2ish % and follow each other nicely from 0 to 99+%? If so then AP is OK. When you try to do TPS calibration do you get any errors? Usually if you have the TP motor wired backwards or incorrectly you will get a fault about throttle control not responding as expected, you then try pushing it manually and seeing if your inputs change as expected, then check your TP motor wiring + config.