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cj last won the day on September 8

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  1. have a look on mouser or digikey for honeywell PX2 or PX3 sensors. They come in various fittings including 1/8-27npt and pressure ranges up to 10bar. One of them is brass body and the other stainless but are otherwise very similar. Try to get the ones with Nitrile o-rings in them. Nitrile handles contact with fuel better. The spec sheet for these tells you which letter of the product code identifies the o-ring type. Dont buy the chinese copies of these from aliexpress/ebay/etc. Even if they are accurate on day 1, they very quickly (a few weeks) become bascially random number generators. The genuine ones are reliable howver, and provide good data sheets that are easy to set up in the link calibrations
  2. cj

    Fuel pump controller setup

    or you could wire in an external pump controller which is PWM capable. There is a ford unit that is used in a lot of 2000's era jagaurs, fords, etc and is very similar to the controller sold by nzefi. Similar era subaru's with ez30's and I think a bunch of the later turbo models also had similar controllers. Most of these should be available in a junkyard for cheap. They typically take 12v, ground, and PWM inputs, then the PWM control the fuel pump on the 2x output wires.
  3. is that diagram from an 80 or a 100? and are those pins on the speed sensor, the ecu, or the dash? typically you can wire it up the other way around without much issue on the toyotas as the dash is expecting a square wave/pwm - so you wire the speed sensor up to the ECU on a DI, then pass it through to a PWM aux out and connect this to the dash "speed input" pin. This also allows you to do speedo corrections for wheel size etc
  4. In factory wiring the ECU doesnt control the dash temperature gauge. Thats fed by a second completely separate sensor on the engine. The ECU temp sensor is 2 wire, the dash sensor is 1 wire. Your speed sensor should be 1x wire to 12v, 1x wire to earth, and the third wire to a DI on the ECU (ie the signal wire) [edit] in factory wiring the VSS signal wire actually goes to the dash, and then there is a different output wire from the dash which you would run to a DI on the ECU. I cant tell if you are asking about the dash-> ECU wiring or are looking at the VSS directly.
  5. Assuming your oil is in good condition, you have PID overshoot & need to adjust the PID parameters. switch PID setup to custom, & Either drop P by 1, i by 0.01 or 0.02, or increase D by 1-2. Make these changes 1 at a time then re-test. Dont make big jumps or wild guesses with this stuff.
  6. cj

    RPM shoot up

    Do you have a log of this happening, or any afr/boost/temp gauges so you can tell us if any engine parameters look wrong at the same time? easy places to start are 1) is your throttle blade or throttle cable stuck? 2) is your idle air valve stuck open? might be a little more work 3) is your wastegate jammed? 4) spray brake cleaner/starting fluid at the *outside* of the intake manifold near any joints (to the engine, brake booster hose, etc) and see if the rpm changes - might be an intake leak.
  7. Hi Simon, I didnt see your pclr file when I posted that info. After having a second look with the pclr loaded as well I can see what you mean about the fuel pressure. The pressure itself isnt technically a problem as 3.5bar is a pretty normal pressure level, however the flow rate, deadtimes and short pulse width tables are taken from the 3bar table in the ID1700 data instead of 3.5bar. The fuel flow number is probably the only one having a real impact here. Unfortunately you cant really change either these parameters or the fuel pressure without re-checking the entire fuel tune. Changing the fuel pressure down at the regulator is more likely to be acceptable given you have everything FP sensor controlled, but its still something you want to be careful with as you could cause it to go leaner under load. I can also now see what you mean about the -12% ish CL correction to your idle fuelling. you could try dropping the fuel table values for both table 1 & table 2 at these cells & smoothing it into the cells near it. Better yet would be to disable CLL for a while. Go drive around smoothly for a bit (so there is constant load in each cell for a few seconds) then at the end of the run use the mixture map feature to adjust mostly table 2 (current E85 mixture means you are interpolating 90 odd % out of fuel table 2 so its really the only 1 that matters. Turn CLL back on after you've done this. CLL isnt active at cruise because the RPM high limit is set to 1500rpm. That being said, it still looks to me like at cruise RPM & TPS your lambda values are pretty close to target - between 0.94 & 1.0 which seems ok. If the CLL high rpm threshold was bumped up to around 3k or 3.5k this would probably correct itself. You would probably want to drop the TPS high threshold down to 50 or 70% so you dont run CLL under full throttle. It seems your fuelling is reasonable at full throttle, although there isnt much time spent at WOT in the log to be sure. For the cold start issues, you can try just upping the max idle valve % up to say 70 and see if this improves things. Your idle is a little below target at this point too so this might fix that. regarding the feeling of it still having power when off throttle, this wont be lambda related. Only things that cause this (apart from air leaks) are faulty/too small recirc valves, idle screw set too far open, idle valve numbers too high, or ignition advance too high. Easiest one to change is dropping the values in ign1 & 2 table for the row that represents your off-throttle MAP value. The lower you drop this the less power will be generated by the engine to "keep pushing the car". How long does this effect last for? your fuel cut is set to kick in after 0.2seconds which should cut power a lot. Your cruise log @ 26:54 shows fuel pressure dropping off a fair bit. You'd need to hold it at that level for a few seconds to see if it stablised or kept dropping off. Maybe the lines are too small? maybe low amperage at the pumps if its factory wiring?
  8. From the log this tune actually looks pretty reasonable to me. Cold start is rich between 15 & 25c ECT but its pretty good above this. Once its up to temperature it looks to idle exactly at lambda target which is pretty good for the ~1500cc injectors it looks like you are running. The lambda numbers at cruise also look very close to target. What exact time in the log are you concerned about? It does look like your knock sensor is misconfigured. It shows max noise level as soon as the engine is powered on, and as soon as you get above the knock cutout thresholds, it pulls 3* of timing and keeps it pulled seemingly forever. Be careful "fixing" this as if it has been tuned like this, and you "fix" it, you are essentially adding 3* to the ign table which may put you into knock territory given the boost levels you are seeing. I also notice that RPM high lockout for knock is ~5k so this would only be a concern for ign cells from ~2k - 5k Not likely a tune issue, and may be related to your fuel pressure question - at high load and/or boost levels it looks like your fuel pump is running out of flow. Your fuel pressure drops from ~350kpa differential to ~320 and at some points even down to ~290. 350kpa as a base fuel pressure it pretty reasonable. What do you think it should be, and why?
  9. Yep that black box about the size of a cigarette packet stuck to the side of the right hand fan shroud is a fan controller on the 3.0's. It is indeed fed pwm by the ECU. I can stick a meter on one in the next couple days and let you know
  10. cj

    Altezza Rs200 - DBW issue

    I dont know much about that exact kit, but if you put a cable throttle body on any engine engine, run a cable from the accelerator pedal, and mount a TPS on it, then yes you can convert to cable throttle. For idle, you either need an idle air valve of some sort, or you need to use ignition idle control combined with careful adjustment of the throttle stop screw.
  11. cj

    Altezza Rs200 - DBW issue

    I'm not sure if the altezza factory wiring (and therefore plugin) have this, but all wire in ECU's need an ethrottle relay wired to them. If the ECU detects a malfunction it cuts power to this relay and the throttle goes back to its mechanical idle position (usually 3-5% open). If it's not in the factory wiring you could certainly cut into a couple wires to add a relay that does this. There is nothing that can be done however if the blade mechanically jams open as even cutting the power will not close the throttle. You cant have a fully configure cable & ethrottle at the same time. If you configure ethrottle and all the safety's, the engine might cut out in an error condition but it should prevent the type of dangerous fault you describe where it gets forced open.
  12. Is this something you've measured? the spec sheet for a couple of the lambda controllers for 4.9's (inc link's can-lambda) say max 8amp during heating. It wouldn't be the first time a spec sheet has been over-zealous with its safety margins so i'd love to know the real world number. I should go put an amp clamp around one myself....
  13. the sensors can draw up to about 8amp each during heating phases. if the fuse behind that factory wiring is say 20 amp then its fine. if its a 5 or 10 amp fuse, you will probably pop it
  14. You have a wiring problem. It sounds like you checked a lot of it already, so maybe a pinout problem on the sensor? Have you checked continuity of the "signal" wire back to the right pin on the link ecu? (an volt 2 should be pin10). It could also be that somehow that signal wire is grounded somewhere else in the chassis - unplug the sensor and the ecu and with a multimeter check for continuity from that pin to ground, and from the pin to each of the ground wires in the ECU plug. One way or another, the ECU is seeing ground on that MAP input, not a real signal. Tuning cant fix that. Your actual received voltage on that input is 0v. When the ECU considers this a "real" value (not an error condition), it reads this as 0kpa MAP (so -100kpa/-14.5psi MGP), which will throw you into a bad part of your tune and it wont start. When you tell it 0.05v is the threshold for error condition, this causes it to go into error state and use the default value of 100kpa (anv2 error value), which just happens to equal 1v on that calibration by the looks of it. This is going to be very close to what your MAP really is during startup, so the engine starts. It probably runs like a dog though because it wont be seeing 100kpa at idle so again you will be in the wrong part of your tune for fuel/spark.
  15. How are you testing this? If its by switching the AC on, thats likely because the "AC is active" signal from the ECU isnt getting back to the AC computer (AC amplifier in the toyota manuals), so the AC amp probably isnt turning on the fans in response. There are no wires directly from the ECU to any rad cooling system. The only wires from the AC amp to any engine related systems are: (on 3sgte's) 1)AC Amp receives a tacho signal from the ignitor. It uses this to disable ECU above a certain rpm, so this has no impact on cooling fan behaviour. 2)ECU receives an input signal from the AC clutch relay so it knows then the AC amp has turned on the AC clutch. (on non turbo's) 1) ACT signal from ECU to AC amp when grounded disables AC - ie at high RPM 2) ACA signal from AC amp to ECU to tell the ECU when AC is active (for idle control) - pretty sure it grounds it when AC is active Best guess... you have the ACT pin grounded because of a config in the LinkECU, and you are testing the fans by turning AC on. In this scenario, the AV wont actually turn on and so the fans probably wont either. At idle it can take quite a long time to get the radiator up to temp to have the fans come on normally. If you want to force a test, mess with the water temp sensor in the radiator - either pull it out and put it in boiling water while still connected (if you can block up the hole), or disconnect the sensor and it should turn the fans on (if that fails, try shorting the pins instead).
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