Jump to content

cj

Members
  • Content Count

    330
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    26

cj last won the day on April 26

cj had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About cj

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    NZ

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. This here says its a compatbile replacement part and expects 3.6ms - i'm guessing at 14v https://moneashop.com/electric-system/136045-coil-IC1197.html
  2. cj

    Impreza v3-4 Wheel speed

    You probbaly dont have ABS sensors on that car to tap into so you wont get individual wheel speeds. Your speedo will be driven by a gearbox sensor. connect the vehicle speed sensor in the gearbox up to any digital input, and configure this as LR wheel speed. Leave the wire connected to the speedo as well, dont just cut it. then under chassis & body, set driven wheel speed source to this DI. Also set non-drive wheel source to the same DI.
  3. depending on the coils you use you can either fire them direct from the ECU or you may need an external igniter. The coils from the more modern k20's fit onto B16/18's pretty well and dont require any igniters as an example.
  4. There are a few things here that look a bit wrong here 1) your dwell table is 9-10ms across the board. I'm not familiar with the coils on this engine but 9ms seems really high (typical would be 1.5-4 ish on most coils these days @ 14v) 2) your ignition timing is quite low. At low rpm (say <2500) there is that low speed pre-ignition issue on many DI's, but above that, I would think you should be more in the 10-15 range than your current 2-4deg (even before you lose some to knock control as pointed out by Tim D). As long as you have some knock detection happening outside of the ecu to keep it safe (ie whatever detection tool+headphone the dyno operator has), i'd figure there is power to be gained by adding more timing. Have a look at the stock map for a rough guide on reasonable numbers.
  5. the MAP limit table values are linearly interpolated between the entreies you define. So at 103 degrees you are 30% between your 100ECT value (260kpa MAP) and your 110ECT value (150kpa). This gives you an effective MAP limit of 227kpa at this temp. Minus 15 for the start of limit engagement number and you are at 212kpa for the limit to kick in, which is exactly what you see. I suspect that ECT is recorded in whole numbers internally, so you are either at 227 kpa limit, or at 238kpa limit (102ECT), and so it seems to come and go randomly, because its only 1 deg ECT difference. Quick fix is add in a row at 105ECT which still allows 260 MAP. Also, whats up with your IAT sensor, it seems to read a constant 75C for that entire last run - it doesnt change with boost level even 1 deg, but 75C is kind of high to be ambient? If you want to make the limits a little easier to tell apart without changing what you are logging, change one of them to -3 deg instead of -2, so its more obvious in a log. Really you should just change your ECU logging to include more parameters if you know there is an issue hiding in there somewhere though.
  6. DI's dont have calibrations, they are just on/off/frequency. If you mean analog inputs, what else would your input value be other than ohms (resistance) or volts? do you have a sensor that output varying mA? you would have to either replace the sensor or set up a shunt resistor to convert it to a voltage input. Your output value (ie the pressure/temp/angle you are measuring with the sensor) can be pretty much anything.
  7. cj

    COP on a B16A

    This is based on the Motec suggested numbers for the denso part number and works well for me on an n/a k20. You can also calculate numbers from the hondata base maps which come out about 20% higher in the 12-16v rows so if its turbo you may want to use 10-20% higher.
  8. Can you clarify this please? Are you saying that it you unplug the cam phase solenoids, the ECU doesnt power up at all? Your trigger1 looks like its not picking up properly. Your trace only goes up to 3.5ish volts, and its very "spiky", compared to Adam's reference which is a nice square wave. This means the falling side of each tooth is going to be a few degrees off where it should be, and this is the edge you are using for trigger1.... hall effect sensors shouldnt ever do partial voltages like that either, they contain an internal filter of sorts that should make them on or off, and on should be 5v. the sensor might be playing up or it might have a power feed issue given what I think you are saying. You havent logged any internal voltages in that log, but the last runtime values in that config show the ECU was seeing 83degC coolant (so it was running very recently), but only 11v battery input, and 10.3 volt internal ECU voltage. What does your power and ground setup look like?
  9. cj

    Stalling Issue

    There can be reasons you would want this to be different (such as trying to get revs to drop quickly to X then drop slowly from there down to idle), but its probably a good idea to start with them at the same value so you can tell if you are dealing with all idle values or all normal values. Remember that ignition idle rpm cutout is an absolute value, and throttle idle rpm cutout is value + target idle value.
  10. Adam beat me to it but i'd already written out most of this so here goes... There are a fair few things "different" with your idle tuning. That log only contains a dozen parameters so we cant fully understand what's going on, but comparing it against the tune a few things jump out. As a basic rule, air(throttle) + timing = more power. If you take either one away, you lose power, and fundamentally, idle is just maintaining a constant (quite low) power output. 1) you have a 4D ignition table that is set to pull anywhere from 5 to 24* of ignition timing as soon as you get off the throttle. It looks like this was set up kind of to replace ignition idle control but i'm not sure why. It means that at pretty much any time you are off throttle, you are running at near 0 ignition angle (between -5 and +5 most of your log), and it will want to stall unless you have HEAPS of throttle open (probably ~10% at a guess). Your ethrottle target table is within the normal range (~3% TPS at idle), so you should probably have 10-20* of timing to match this. 2) your throttle idle control is set up with no speed cutout (so its always active if the RPM +throttle criteria match). Normally you dont want this and would set it to 20kph or similar. 3) your throttle idle control RPM limit is set to 1400rpm. This means throttle idle control is active at any point under about 2500rpm (~1k target + 1400). this rpm lockout should probably be more like 4-500. 4) throttle idle control AP/TP lockout is set to 4%. on an ethrottle like this that means 4% AP, which is actually quite a bit, and means at any low-ish throttle pedal angle, its still going to try and idle, rather than go slowly. Normally this is set to <1%. 5) your ignition idle settings do not line up with your throttle idle settings. Ignition idle values essentially replace any IGN1 table or 4d table values when this is active. It is currently very aggressive however (ign=0 when 500rpm high, and 40 when rpm is 500 low), and again has a 6% AP threshold which is quite high, and because it comes in at 1800rpm, as soon as you drop down into this range it will cut timing quite savagely making it want to stall. All this adds up to at least 3 different parts of the tune pulling a LOT of timing whenever you are off the throttle, even for a bit. even if it doesn't stall its got to make it feel a bit flat as far as throttle response goes. First thing i'd do is turn off that 4d ignition table, then set the thresholds for idle control to 1%AP, 400rpm, and 20kph, and ignition idle control to 1400rpm, 1%AP, and 20kph. I'd then set the idle ignition table to only add/remove 3-4 degrees per 100rpm instead of the 10 or so per 100rpm it does now. Also, temporarily change the idle control from closed loop to open so you can get the bascis right, then turn closed loop back on just to keep to steady (if you even need to, it can be quite happy on open loop idle) This will all make it feel quite different, and might be worse in some regards, but its a lot better starting point to fix it up from.
  11. could be timing scatter. See how your RPM trace looks "fuzzy", and the ROC + dwell times jump around all over the show? try turning the trigger 1 & 2 filtering level up and see if it improves the misfire issues. Interestingly your engine spike rich just after most of the what look like misfire events. A misfire would normally spike lean. Your injector pulsewidths dont jump up to explain it either. What are you using for boost control? its turned off in the ECU, but the pattern in the logs is usually: 1) boost pressure jumps up 10-15kpa, and at nearly the same time there is a rich spike 2) boost pressure jumps down about 30-40 kpa 3) boost recovers for a bit 4) you get off the throttle (all in the space of about half a second, but its all happening before the TPS% changes)
  12. cj

    Subaru legacy bh5

    considering an ECU is probably 2k and a lot of planning, and a 5 speed conversion on 1 of these is typically under 1k in parts (at least in NZ) and can be done in a weekend, id suggest the manual conversion first and just skip that whole auto trickiness. Off the top of my head these already run a single wastegate and BOV so swapping it to parallel turbo means yes it would be simple enough to control, but with factory sized turbo's, you wont see useful boost until about 4-4.5k rpm which is kind of a big drivability problem. source: I have a stock one as a daily driver and the factory twin turbo control is mostly vacuum actuated and can get "stuck" running the turbo's in parallel for 10-20 seconds if you change gear just as the second turbo comes on - for these 20 seconds you can only get about 2psi of boost below 4k and it feels really flat off boost.
  13. If it were mine I would probably only drive it to/from the dyno and maybe to the shops. I wouldn't put any stress on it while it clearly has something wrong with the timing as you dont really know what else might be wrong to cause this, and what damage it's doing in the background. My gut feel is still that somehow your "zero" point is 10 or so degrees off from real TDC. You're showing ~18 deg @ idle, but a car can idle quite happily at 8 with the idle valve open a bit extra, and your injection timing been off by 10deg wont mean much. I'd start with doing the ECU calbration process again, following the setup guide exactly. If that doesnt help, probably rip the alternator belt, pulley, and side timing covers off the engine and make sure that all the timing marks are lined up on the actual crank + cams. The maybe a compression test and/or leakdown test? If you somehow had compression issues you could probably run additional timing without knock as the pressure in the cylinders would be a lot less than it "should be" at the level of boost you are seeing in the manifold. Are there any other issues with the engine? leaks, using water or oil, weird noises?
  14. cj

    Subaru legacy bh5

    What engine does your car have? non turbo or ez30 - maybe. single turbo conversion - maybe. factory twin turbo - controlling those would be a problem. Apart from that - these cars still had separate TCM's so theoretically it could be done. There are only about 10 wires that touch both the ECM and TCM in factory trim - TPS goes to both, RPM goes ECM-> TCM+tacho etc, MAF/MAP says it goes sensor->ECU then separately ECU->TCM but I seem to recall some of them go direct to the ECU&TCM from the sensor, and if not you could probably splice it to do this. Then there are the 3x torque control wires. You'd need to figure out whether the signals to ECM->TCM or the other way around, and whether the TCM actually needs them to function. I suspect you could do it but you might trash the transmission pretty quickly if you dont have the torque cut request working properly. Its certainly jumping well into the deep end and wouldnt be an easy swap.
  15. So looking at that log file a couple things jump out at me 1) your TPS isnt calibrated. It shows 1.3% at idle (and so your idle control never even kicks in), and either you never put your foot right down, or it reads 75% at full throttle. This in itself isnt going to be your problem, but it does point towards some of the basics not being right. 2) your timing does seem rather high - i'm not an evo guy, but 30* at 5000rpm and just over 1bar of boost seems like a big number, and is about 10deg higher than I would have expected (and its also about 10deg higher than a few other evo maps i've dug up). There are no trims being applied at this time, the ECU thinks its actually delivering 30 degrees ignition. 3) your knock control is disabled. This isnt necessarily a problem but with your timing a bit suspect like this, it would have been nice to have enabled in case it is knocking like crazy. 4) as soon as you stop your IAT's go up very quickly, and your IAT trim table kicks in at 30 degC so its possible your dyno runs were getting hit by this, but the circumstance of dyno vs this street driving log are completely different so we cant tell. See point 2 though - I dont think this is your biggest problem. This car has a 2 part crank pulley right? meaning there is a rubber circle in the middle of it. These can split and let the outer ring with the timing marks slip relative to the actual crank. Apparently this was quite a known issue on earlier 4G63's. If this has happened then your actual crank timing will be off from what the timing marks say. It would be worth cranking the engine by hand until it shows TDC on the crank timing marks, then take off the lower engine cover and the crank pulley, and check that the marks on the cambelt toothed pulley line up with the TDC mark on the block. I hope your tuner had some kind of knock detection setup while tuning it. Option B is that the timing is accurate and its knocking like crazy at that timing and no one has noticed yet. A turbo engine will typically make more power well past the point of knock (on pump gas), but its really not good for it.
×
×
  • Create New...