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cj

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cj last won the day on November 14

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About cj

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  1. I think this might take a couple iterations to get right. There are a few seemingly separate issues here. First up the triggering - at idle your trigger 1 error count doesnt change, so it doesnt look like a tooth count problem or it would increase once per rev. I'd guess its either a really noisy signal or your triggering thresholds are set too close to the noise floor and when the noise creeps up, the filtering level isnt enough and the triggering errors come in. Can you take a trigger scope with it at idle? Until we see this its hard to tell if its interference or just signal level threshold calibtraion. Second, its pretty rich - about 0.76 lambda most of the time so its nearly at the limit of too much fuel to run, if you're sticking with traditional model for now, try dropping your master pulse width until your idle afr is up to 0.85 or leaner - or at least until it sounds happy at idle. You may need to increase your cranking fuel encrichment if it wont start after doing this. Third, your alternator doesnt look to be hooked up, you're seeing 11.4 ish volts at all times. Forth, if you look at the status messages coming from the lambda sensor, your log starts with it at normal temp of just under 800C, but an error of "heated too long", just before it drops the lamba1 signal it reports a temp of 0C, then it looks to reset, begin the heating+diag process again. It never really recovers - the temp flicks up for a couple seconds at ~680 which looks right, but then 10 seconds later it says "RE over voltage" and says the temp is ~20C which I dont believe with the engine still running. I'm not 100% sure whats going on there but I'd start by checking your wiring between the sensor and the can lamba controller and the various power feeds to both are correct. I dont see any CAN errors at all so I dont think its the ECU>CAN Lambda side that is the problem.
  2. S54 Throttle Settings

    Try chaning TPS sub closed to 4.31v , I think you've accidentally copied the max value from TPS main Also in your screenshot the second graph shows TPS sub and its voltage side by side, but the top graph show TPS % but APS voltage. Be careful not to use these voltage for TPS.
  3. S54 Throttle Settings

    Your tracking for TPS main now looks ok (at least up to ~4% as shown in your log), The tps sub signal looks like its calibrated wrong. I can see the voltage at what I assume is closed throttle is nearly 1v higher than what you have configured. Leave the PID's as they are now as the look good enough to start with, and run through the "manual" tps calibration again as suggested by integrale8v above. Be sure to log the 2x AN volt channels that are connected to tps main and tps sub and set the min/max values for each channel as seen in the log.
  4. ''Laggy'' software

    given the 3d issues as well, i'd say graphics drivers. Try getting the official asus ones which are sometimes different to the intel/nvidia/ati ones. A lot of those more powerful laptops have some sort of onboard vs offboard video card switching too. Make sure you have the drivers installed for both video cards, and as a test try forcing the offboard card to be always on/always off.
  5. rb26/30 no start logs attached

    When you say back together, what did you change while it was apart, and did you remove anything that coulf affect the timing? trigger wheels, cams, etc? What do you mean by not firing - is it close to catching, backfires out the intake, nothing at all? It looks like its taking quite some time to register RPM after the start signal, and near the end of the cranking the rpm jumps up from ~170 to about 320 so I wonder if your trigger signals have become a bit messed up somehow. Could be worth running a trigger scope capture and checking for anything strange. Maybe need to re-check your base timing if that might have changed with the work you've done.
  6. 3uzfe e throttle

    Your PID settings look good enough - your target vs actual tracking is pretty accurate. The numbers in your TPS calibration dont line up with the max/min voltages seen by the ECU though, so its like at clsoed throttle its actually reading -10% for example. The biggest problem is that the latest log now shows voltages for main and sub both moving over a full range of motion, no 70% stop on the sub signal like you have configured. Try changing the tps sub percentage to 100% and get another log please. If you look at the TPS voltages rather than the percentages,it shows TPS main as 0.66v minimum and 3.12v maximum. These should normally be your closed and open numbers. Your config has closed and open numbers as 1.051 and 2.972. The 100% value looks to match the steady state open throttle voltage of 2.97v, but it spikes above 2.97v up to 3.12v for a little bit each time you snap the throttle open. I'd suggest leaving open voltage at 2.97 for now but changing the closed number to match minimum value. At the closed end the throttle it has to get to several percent open before it will register any movement off the closed position. Try changing the TPS main closed value to 0.66v TPS sub shows 2.21v min and 4.93 max. Again your open value of 4.966V looks close enough, but your closed value of 2.698 means the sub sensor also wont see any movement until a few percentage points of movement. Try changing the closed value to 2.21v. I also noticed something strange in your log - the minimum values are usually 0.66v and 2.21v, but at 27 sec, 39 sec and at 45 sec it attempts to return to 0% throttle, but the voltages sit above the closed voltages. I'm assuming this is just because once it drops below the expected minimum it will stop driving the throttle shut, so its probably just physically at 2-3% open. Theres a chance though that your tps does have issues and isnt registering the closed voltages consistently. You'll need to change the closed calibration numbers and re-run the log with all values present to check.
  7. Injector PW is changing itself - really strange

    That lean spike at about 2:25 happens right when your engine temp first hist 90 deg C. You have Engine fan 1 enable temp set to 90 deg as well, and that looks to come on at the same time. Looks to me like the engine load going up a bit because of this fan. Your revs drop a little at the same time, and battery voltage drops from ~13.7 to around 12 for a few seconds. You have engine fan step set at +1.8% in the ethrottle calibration which should prevent this, but it doesnt seem to have kicked in here for some reason. Maybe someone else can see why not? On a separate note, your TPS sub signal is sitting at 20% while the TPS main is at 3.4%. This will cause it to error out after a few minutes and disable your ethrottle. It looks to move up and down with the TPS main signal so hopefully just needs recalibrating.
  8. 3uzfe e throttle

    Based on your log try these settings main closed voltage: 0.95 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.56 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 60% [edit]if that dip in voltage at the start of the log is not just an anomaly, and represents actual 0% TPS, then you need to use the value below. Does it look like the at rest position of the throttle blade is completely shut or does it look 2-3% open, and only fully closed when pushed/driven shut? Once you get it pretty close, can you run the calibration wizard to fine tune it? main closed voltage: 0.66 main open voltage: 4.41 sub closed voltage: 2.21 sub open voltage: 4.93 sub 100 percentage: 62.5%
  9. Injectors doesn't work

    How are you confirming you're not receiving signal to the injectors? Is it just not starting or are you probing some of the wiring with a multimeter? High impedance injectors is correct If you pull out a spark plug immediately after cranking it is it wet with fuel? When you ran the tests, have you got injector1 and ignition1 firing the same cyclinder, and the same for the other 3?
  10. mk3 mr2 AC Clutch Control Setup

    Check the factory wiring diagram for what connects to the AC amp directly. I dont know about ZZ30's but in the SW20's a lot of those signals about rpm, coolant temp, ac pressure etc all were directly wired to the AC amp and so it was all independent of the ECU. In fact depending on the model you only got 2x wires into the ecu that effected the AC, one was a "ac is on" input signal from when the AC clutch was engaged, and the other was a wire between the AC amp and the ecu that the ecu could ground out to make the AC switch off. To set up your own rules for that you would follow Simon's instructions above once it's wired in.
  11. mk3 mr2 AC Clutch Control Setup

    Your config looks like its running a 2GRFE right? What car is this engine out of? Probably a good idea to get the service manual for the donor car and see how the factory aircon control is supposed to work. If you're lucky the majority of the system will be independent of the engine and ECU and the only signals you'll have to deal with are aircon clutch trigger (usually low polarity to enable it) and a "aircon is on" signal. Depending on the donor car AC system there may be a bunch of signals around water temp, AC line pressure, AC request switch on the dash. If you're lucky all of this will go to the AC amp and you can leave it do do its thing and just deal with 2x signals I mentioned above. Are you keeping the mr2 aircon amp or trying to run all the safety stuff (pressure switches etc) from the ecu directly?
  12. G4+ Mazda RX8 CAN Bus

    This guy has a really good process on how to observe and reverse engineer canbus signals http://bobodyne.com/web-docs/robots/MINI/CAN/MINI_CAN.pdf His example use a mini but the process applies to everything. Its basically push the car through some known states eg press gas pedal, speed up, slwo down, turn steering wheel. Graph the output of each stream of data coming across the can bus, then try to map what you did to something you can see happening on the canbus. I've done this myself on a subaru using one of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual-Channel-USB-To-CAN-Analyzer-DeviceNET-iCAN-VRMS-CANOpen-J19339-CAN-Analyzer/32359550686.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.TSYAka&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10345_10342_10547_10343_10340_10341_10548_10541_10084_10083_10560_10307_10175_10060_10155_10154_10056_10055_10539_10537_10312_10536_10059_10313_10314_10534_10533_100031_10103_10073_10102_10557_10142_10107,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&btsid=c137e58f-7221-4cd6-8e73-88f833c9f482&algo_expid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8-0&algo_pvid=3d31339c-5443-452b-a5c7-85399dba71d8 It looks really daunting to start with as literally nothing has labels, but as soon as you get your head around which devices are which ID's you can start to focus on things that matter - eg tacho signal has to come the ecu, speed has to come from the abs computer (check wiring diagrams but this is usually true) so you have a pretty good idea where to look, graph each block of data, then look for a graph pattern that matches what you did with the vehicle, then work out the scale of it. You may want to start by watching the ID's that are present and the time intervals of them and disconnecting abs/ecu/body control computer/etc to start with as the first step. Remember you dont have to understand all of it, just the signals you are sending from the ecu or receiving via canbus (eg speed)
  13. SW20 MR2 AC clutch control

    Is this a 3sgte powered mr2? rev1/2 or rev3 engine? What colour wire is connected to the AC pin on the link? The service manual and wiring diagram for all 3sgte's doesnt even show an AC control circuit coming out of the ECU. It shows pin A10 (B/W) as input to the ECU so it knows when the AC clutch is engaged so it can idle up and thats it. All other signals about water temp, AC pressure, etc all go direct to the AC amp and never touch the ECU. The one bit thing that _might_ be relevant is that the AC amp receives a tacho input signal (black wire from IG- on the coil, same as the one to the tacho), and apparently uses some internal logic to disable the AC clutch at high RPM. Unless you've done a COP conversion or otheriwse chaneged the tacho signals this should still be in place. From the 2nd gen service manual: Second gen is a little different on the pinouts for 5sfe's but 3s's have the same AC control regardless of 2 vs 3 generation. On the 3rd gen engines, the same thing applies to 3sgte's but 5sfe's are a little different and the service manual states: 3SGTE 5SFE Things that are the same on both End result of all of this, is that the ACT pin was never used on 3sgte's from the factory, so you dont need it. If you want to set some logic to control the AC activation (eg above 75% throttle) then you can wire the ACT (Pink-Green) wire to an output that you set Low Polarity (ground) = "triggered" to disable the air con compressor (the air con amp outputs a 12v signal so floating or 12out on the link output will do nothing). If you have a black-white wire hooked up to a link _output_, you should really disconnect it as any result you are seeing from placing 12v/ground signals on this wire are because you are providing current to what should be the output side of the aircon activation relay and you are bypassing the aircon amp or possibly feeding current into the wrong side of it. b-w wires in all the factory manuals are some form of input signal (as far as aircon is concerned)
  14. Which E Throttle and pedal ?

    Have a look at your firewall - is it straight up and down, on an angle one way or another? Maybe get some pics then just go down to a friendly wrecker and have a look through whatever ethrottle pedals they have in stock. make sure they are willing to sell you the last 6 inches of the wiring harness to connect the thing too. I think I paid $40 for one. Its preferable that its from a common model of car or one on the link helpfile list too so you can get pinout diagrams for it, but you can figure these out if you have to anyway with a multimeter.
  15. Using Xtreme G4+ to control MR2 Power Steering

    You'll need to check the wiring in your own car to determine how its wired up. Its likely gearbox > dakota > dash + ecu, but you can set these things up many different ways. Is it the factory dash? the link acceptable input range is in the same ballpark as what most 90's dash's expected, and that TR6060 probably outputs a much higher frequency being quite a new gearbox, so i'd guess the dakota box is used to drop the frequency to something the dash and ecu can both use. Conveniently, most 90's japanse cars used the same number of pulses per km for their dashes, so you can probably just splice into the dash+ecu speed signal and run an additional wire to the speed input on the steering ecu. Get out your multimeter and figure out which wires connect to where so you can be certain. You've got 3x options 1) use the link as a frequency converter and run a new speed output wire from link > steering ecu 2) connect from one of the dakota outputs to the steering ecu 3) if youve already got the right frequency running into your dash you can add a wire to this so its connects to the steering ecu as well. Only #1 will give you personalisable control over the level of assist. The other 2 will both take the real speed and feed it to the steering ecu so it will follow the factory speed vs assist calibration.
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