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cj

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cj last won the day on February 2

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About cj

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  1. Subaru Electronic Throttle Pinout

    The ethrottle itself is certainly that because of the big black and white wires. I don't imagine the service manual would change half way through so the pedal is likely the same. (looking into the connector, clip at the top)
  2. Subaru Electronic Throttle Pinout

    Colours will vary by year but pins should be the same. Heres what it is on a 2005 Legacy Pedal 1 LY +5v 2 R Signal Sub 3 GB +5v 4 L Ground 5 B Signal main 6 YG Ground Throttle 1 W D4 Motor - 2 B D5 Motor + 3 LW Ground 4 R C29 signal sub 5 P C16 +5v 6 W C18 signal main
  3. AEM EPM trigger G4+ PNP Coil on plug

    try turning off pull-up for both triggers. both are pegged at 4V output the whole time.
  4. Alternator charge issue

    If the battery light is flashing up on the dash (plus others) its probably not charging at all, and when you rev it the additional drain is dropping the voltage low enough to trigger the light. Do you have a wiring diagram for the car? A lot of cars have a "field" wire to the alternator that needs to be provided with 12v at key on so alternator will provide charge. if this came via the ecu or a relay that you changed wiring on and now isnt hooked up it can cause what you're seeing. So could 1) a faulty alternator 2) the ground for the alternator not being hooked up (if it was spliced into or through the ecu wiring which is now different) 3) some alternators have a "kill switch"/low output wire where they can be signalled to turn off (at low load or full throttle usually). depending on the factory behaviour of ground vs 12v vs floating this wire may now be permanently signalling the alternator to switch off.
  5. Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZ3TUI looks like the sort of thing a lot of welding or gas supplies stores would have. Or order one from amazon/ebay.
  6. Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    The diagrams all look correct for a 5v pullup. If none of them are working, and you'd rather spend time than money in replacing the sensor, I think you need to start testing the behaviour of this sensor to confirm what's written in the manual. Can you measure its resistance while the car is off? Do you see any fluctuations like in the graph when its got 5v supply? Can you measure its resistance again with the car running - but the sensor still dicsonnected from the ecu. Do you have a multimeter that measures frequency or duty cycle, if so can you power it from the 5v line only (no pullups, no signal wire), and measure across the sensor to see what if any frequency type signal is happening. can you either wire it from the 5v line with a bulb in series as described in the manual, or build a battery pack from 3x AA batteries to test the same thing? Do you still have the original dash you could wire up to confirm the sensor still works and how it behaves? old toyota dashes ususally have pretty obvious traces on them so you can figure out which of the 3 or 4 pins you need to liven up pretty easily.
  7. Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    Can you draw a simple diagram of how you have this wired? is your resistor a pullup to 5v, a pullup to ground, or in series with the signal wire? Have you also tried confirming the behaviour in the manual? get 3x AA batteries and tape them together with some wires to make a nearly 5v battery pack, wire positive directly into the sensor with a bulb in series and ground the negative side to the chassis, and check you actually see the pulsing behaviour you expect. See if you get pulses or a dimmer/brighter bulb.
  8. Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    Is it a standard 1/8 NPT thread? might be easier to just buy an aftermarket sender that has a known resistance vs pressure slope. If you want to keep that sensor... looking at your log again after that explanation, it does sound a lot like a pwm type implementation, similar to how a speedo works with pulses. In some cases you can read pwm signals as analog voltages anyway if the duty cycle changes. If its always 50% duty cycle but the frequency changes, the average voltage is always the same though, this looks like what you're seeing. Try connecting it to one of DI 1-6 instead and given you have an external pullup already, disable the internal pullup in the config. you can set these inputs to "frequency". See if that gives you some correlation between oil pressure and the numbers seen by the ecu. If it is the case that its sending frequency, i'm not sure how you can tell the ECU that the frequency it receives correlates to oil pressure. Maybe someone else has figured this bit out
  9. Toyota Oil Pressure Sender

    These are a single wire sensor right? From a 90's toyota with a single wire its extremely unlikely to be pwm, and that engine off graph is probably supposed to be 5v constant but there may be a loose wire or something. The way you've wired it up should give you a 0-5v output as the resistance of the sensor changes, but without knowing the actual resistance values and what that sensor's max pressure is I cant tell you whether its going to be a full 0-5v or more like 0-2v. Is the dash gauge still wired up? you could approximate the voltage vs pressure numbers from this compared to your logged voltage. Is that second graph when the engine is cold? Oil pressure stays pretty high regardless of revs until the oil warms up, then it tends to sit relatively stable above say 2k, but at idle revs it can drop off quite sharply. If the size of your resistor isnt quite right that 0.6v - 1.9v you see may be the extent of normal range.
  10. voltage drop

    Do you have a clamp multimeter? Check what the actual current draw is
  11. voltage drop

    How much charge is in your battery? What happens to your voltage if you turn on the headlights instead of the fuel pump? Assuming 2x 55w bulbs @ 12v you should get about 9amp draw. If you see the same of bigger voltage drop from the lights, its your electrical system not being up to scratch (flat or too small battery). If the 9amp from the lights is fine, but the 4amp from the fuel pump causes an issue, first check that you are actually only drawing 4amp with a clamp multimeter, then start checking for damaged wires to the fuel pump that might be shorting or grounding.
  12. Leans out when not moving on fuel map

    I take it your fuel table axis is MGP and not MAP? 12" vaccuum is about -40.5kpa so those 2 numbers line up as long as we're talking MGP. On a stock engine that's not much vacuum but with a big cam its probably in the ballpark.
  13. I think this might take a couple iterations to get right. There are a few seemingly separate issues here. First up the triggering - at idle your trigger 1 error count doesnt change, so it doesnt look like a tooth count problem or it would increase once per rev. I'd guess its either a really noisy signal or your triggering thresholds are set too close to the noise floor and when the noise creeps up, the filtering level isnt enough and the triggering errors come in. Can you take a trigger scope with it at idle? Until we see this its hard to tell if its interference or just signal level threshold calibtraion. Second, its pretty rich - about 0.76 lambda most of the time so its nearly at the limit of too much fuel to run, if you're sticking with traditional model for now, try dropping your master pulse width until your idle afr is up to 0.85 or leaner - or at least until it sounds happy at idle. You may need to increase your cranking fuel encrichment if it wont start after doing this. Third, your alternator doesnt look to be hooked up, you're seeing 11.4 ish volts at all times. Forth, if you look at the status messages coming from the lambda sensor, your log starts with it at normal temp of just under 800C, but an error of "heated too long", just before it drops the lamba1 signal it reports a temp of 0C, then it looks to reset, begin the heating+diag process again. It never really recovers - the temp flicks up for a couple seconds at ~680 which looks right, but then 10 seconds later it says "RE over voltage" and says the temp is ~20C which I dont believe with the engine still running. I'm not 100% sure whats going on there but I'd start by checking your wiring between the sensor and the can lamba controller and the various power feeds to both are correct. I dont see any CAN errors at all so I dont think its the ECU>CAN Lambda side that is the problem.
  14. S54 Throttle Settings

    Try chaning TPS sub closed to 4.31v , I think you've accidentally copied the max value from TPS main Also in your screenshot the second graph shows TPS sub and its voltage side by side, but the top graph show TPS % but APS voltage. Be careful not to use these voltage for TPS.
  15. S54 Throttle Settings

    Your tracking for TPS main now looks ok (at least up to ~4% as shown in your log), The tps sub signal looks like its calibrated wrong. I can see the voltage at what I assume is closed throttle is nearly 1v higher than what you have configured. Leave the PID's as they are now as the look good enough to start with, and run through the "manual" tps calibration again as suggested by integrale8v above. Be sure to log the 2x AN volt channels that are connected to tps main and tps sub and set the min/max values for each channel as seen in the log.
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