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cj last won the day on November 5 2018

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About cj

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  1. cj

    Vvti setup errors

    The pulse count line should have disappeared when you set test mode to off. You probably also want to disable inlet centreline display Try setting your VVT screen to look like this. If that doesnt help, try running a trigger scope capture while at idle and post it here please. Maybe your cam trigger has a noisy signal of some sort.
  2. cj

    Pressure sensors reading downward

    Both of them drop at the same rate or are they different? Does the engine start to stall like its actually running out of fuel? Maybe post a log. For the fuel one I'd check you dont have the regulator physically plumbed in to the wrong ports but this wouldnt explain the oil sensor or if the engine feels fine. Do the readings you are getting at idle look sensible in the first place?
  3. cj

    Vvti setup errors

    When you are done testing you have to set "cam angle test" back to "off" rather than "inlet LH" as you can see in the back of your screenshot
  4. cj

    Help needed fuel pump control

    Yes it is sorry. I didnt actually look at the settings, the label threw me. And its set at 5900rpm. This doesnt change my statement about the fuel table, and its probably making the fuelling issue worse actually. In general the high cam wants more fuel / a higher VE number, but with this cam switch in mind, you swap to high cam at about the same time your fuel table numbers drop off like crazy. This means it will be running extra lean... between 5900 and about 7-7.5k. As a starting point, open up that fuel table in log view, see which cells the crosshairs go through when at WOT, take the last tuned value at 5500 ish, add 10 to it and set this as the 6000 value , then set this same value in all the WOT crosshair cells up to redline. It wont be a tuned number but it will be a hell of a lot closer than what you have now. ...and enable your VVT like Adam said too by changing "VVT cam test type" to "off" in VVT control. The factory toyota wiring on these feeds both the positive and negative side of the VVT & VVL solenoids from the ECU and this messes with peoples heads thinking they should copy it. @KD It sounds like you have done it right by having relay fed 12v to one side, and the ECU controlling the ground side only for both of these solenoids.
  5. cj

    Help needed fuel pump control

    As well as what AdamW says about VVT (cam phasing) being disabled, you dont even have VVL (high cam switchover) configured. There should be a digital input configured as CAM Switch or GP output and set to switch on at your VTEC/VVL RPM/tps/etc condition. Without this, your entire dyno run has been done on the low cam. This need to be hooked up to one side of your VVL solenoid, and the other side has to be fed 12v+ from the main relay or some other relay. Why it looks like you have power drop off right on VVL switchng is because you seem to have only tuned things up to that point. This is your fuel table, and the big peak is right around 5500RPM. Everything below this looks at least partially tuned for WOT. after this point, your fuelling drops nearly 30% immediately. You dont have a lambda sensor hooked up but i'd bet it goes super lean at about 6000RPM hence your drop in power. Have you given any thought to how you want to tune the high cam? you can do it the way VTEC Honda's have been done for years using 2x fuel, ignition, and VVT maps tuned separately by setting the CCL switch point really high then really low while tuning each side of it, then set the cam switching RPM to the point the torque curves cross, and setting the switchover control fuel fuel+ignition+VVT table 2 to be the VVL signal. You can also do it with a single table if you have a pretty good idea where you want the switchover RPM to be, and then you just tune the various tables as if the VVL switching is just a part of the engine as the RPM increases. The first option takes longer but means you have a pretty good idea of where optimum VVL engagement point is, and if you tweak this you dotn have to make many other changes (just tweaking the VVT table usually aroudn switchover RPM so the high and low CAM VVT angles almost match). If you tune it as a single table you have to have a pretty good idea where your switchover RPM should be to start with.
  6. cj

    3sgte unstable ignition

    Could be a few things. 1) if your trigger wheel is Cam mounted (replaces the distributor) it could be slop in the cam belt. 2) it could be that your crank sensor is wired incorrectly (reversed polarity?) and is giving an unstable signal 3) it could be that your trigger signal is picking up noise from the engine bay and isnt providing a stable signal 4) if your timing light allows for advance correction and you either bump this dial while working or its too low an RPM for it to work correctly (ie while cranking). Set this to 0 advance if your light has it. Can you please post a trigger scope capture while cranking (and at idle if you can start it), and a log of it running at idle if it will currently run+idle.
  7. cj

    AE tuning with DBW

    Which table are you thinking of changing to APS? You cant change Accel load to APS. Generally you dont want to use APS as an axis for anything other than your TPS target table as it means any future changes to the TPS target table will affect some parts of the engine management but not others. eg (extreme example to get the point across): if you had ignition set to TPS, and fuel set to APS, and you change your TPS target table from say completely linear 0=0, 100=100, to something where the first 50% of APS movement only gives 10% TPS, then from 51-100 APS it ramps up the throttle very sharply. If you had tuned everything nicely to start with, after this change, having your APS at 40% would mean your fuelling would be at 40% load, but your ignition at about 8% load. Suddenly the 2 dont match up and you have to re-tune one or both of the tables. Also, 16-19% TPS at idle is quite high. Are you running something like 0 deg timing at idle? Typical values would be 3-8, maybe 10% depending on ignition timing. (more timing means lower TPS angle for same RPM usually) Are you having problems with throttle response when you jump on the accelerator? ie is there a problem you are trying to fix here with accel enrichment not working or is this just a theoretical question?
  8. cj

    Idle Problems

    For point regarding your Fan on idle, you can try increasing your engine fan step from what looks like 0.4% up to 0.6 or 0.8%. The real problem is that your PID control for your throttle is not sensitive enough and so your target TPS is moving by 0.4%, but you actual TPS angle is moving by roughly 0.2% and so its not enough. E-throttle works roughly to the idea that the further you are away from target, the more "effort" the ECU will make to change the TPS angle. if you are only 0.2% off, its basically going to just let it be a bit off unless you have it tuned to be pretty sensitive. (screenshot from someone else's config so the values wont match yours) You describe the idle as "not responding" when it first starts up in point 1. This might be somewhat by design. In you first log you can see the idle status is "hold-startup" until about 8.5 seconds into the log. Before this time its running a hard-coded set of startup numbers. In your AC log it looks like your AC step up table is supplying ~1.8% TPS increase when your AC request is switched on. This is taking your idle (either RPM or MAP) ups too high and so while throttle idle control still looks to be active, ignition idle control has been disabled and so your ignition angle goes from ~16* to 36* as per you IGN 1 table. This combined with the nearly 7% of TPS your AC step up is giving you is making you idle at ~1600 RPM. try dropping the AC set up table values to maybe half what they currently are. Also check your ignition idle control numbers to see if they are being exceeded. See screenshot for the values you need to check. (again, not your actual config because you didnt post it) Have you run through the guide in the help file where it talks about disabling all idle control systems, tuning open loop on its own, then enabling the idle control systems just to keep it stable. Its not supposed to be able to cope with massively different engine parameters, just to smooth things out and keep it running nicely if something isnt quite the same as when you tuned it.
  9. The engine has to do a whole rotation for the ECU to establish its position correctly before it starts registering RPM. It looks like it did nearly 2 rotations in your case though which is what i've seen when your trigger2 offset is incorrect. In my experience if your trig2/vvt offset is correct it will fire on the second rotation, but if its incorrect, it will take roughly 1 more complete rotation to pick up its own idea of trig2 offset before it will fire on the third rotation, hence my point 3 above about checking your triggers. I had almost this exact scenario once where I got lazy with checking cam VVT phasing and just went with the default values. Because of cam chain stretching or whatever the actual number when I checked it was ~2 degrees different and this caused what felt like 1 extra rotation of the engine before it would fire. With an accurate value in trigger2 offset it fires up quicker.
  10. cj

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    That's a pretty key piece of the puzzle there. I've never engine bay mounted one, but have put them in some pretty cramped corners of cabins and the internal temps have stayed <40C so I dont think they generate enough heat on their own to cause a problem if you insulated it. Having another look at your pics, you could get a thin sheet of alloy and bolt it between the ECU and the engine, and have the front section run 45* across to behind the headlight so it blocks radiator air, kind of like a lot of people do to shield cold air intakes. You may even be able to run a ducting tube to pick up clean air and run it into the ECU side of the alloy sheild if its still getting a little bit hot.
  11. There are a couple things you can change that should help 1) You cranking ignition angle is 32*. This is likely too much during cranking and is making the starter work against the combustion event. Tray changing these 2 cells to 10 deg. You could also add in a new row for 250 rpm (your cranking speed is 280 ish) and set lower ignition values in this whole column. 2) your IAT correction is subtracting 4-5% of your fuel during starting (for reference, your crank addition is only about 7% when warmed up so its pretty much negating this). Chances are your IAT is reading higher than it really is during startup anyway due to heat soak. As per this previous post, try setting the TP=0 row to have positive values of 5-10% everywhere above 35 or 30 deg. When driving you will only be on this row when coasting so it wont affect the engine when under load. If you want to be really careful you could create another row at 3 or 5%, copy your current 0 values into this row, then only mess with the 0 row. 3) your triggers being slightly off can cause extended cranking as well. Comparing your config to the link help file there are a few differences. I cant tell whether these are things youve checked for yourself and set them intentionally or if they are just copied wrong. a) your trigger 1 timing is at 10deg with offset 145 but the expected number is 0deg with 145 offset. Did you run the trigger1 calibration of just copy this from the guide? b) trigger 2 VVT offset is 2 degrees different. Did you run the vvt cam angle check process to get this number? c) DI2 VVT Cam offset is a couple degrees different. d) your arming thresholds for trig1 and 2 are lower than normal. Typically you want these to be half the max value seen on a trigger scope. Did you run a trigger scope capture on this engine?
  12. cj

    G4+ Thunder engine bay installation issues

    Looking at your pic you have replaced the dizzy and are running COP's, so there is no way the engine can "self idle" if the ECU is off. Therefore, your issue is more likely to be either A your main/ecu relay sticking on because of temp, although factory mounting for these is up under the dash rather than the engine bay, or B (more likely) you are getting some kind of back feed of power through the ECU which is allowing it to keeping it running even when the main relay feed is cut. Assuming the temperature thing is not a red herring, maybe one of the temp sensors drops to a really low resistance when hot and because of a wiring quirk, power is being drawn in through this? Have you got any sensors or solenoids being hot fed direct from the battery or are they all behind relays? Have you wired in the Main relay controls on the thunder or just connected "14v in" to an existing ECU relay-like feed on the existing car wiring? My gut feel is that its unlikely to be ECU internal temperature, but this is a logged value so you can check. Can you post a config and log of when it fails to shut down? From the link help file "It is not recommended to operate the ECU at temperatures below -20 degrees C or above 70 degrees C." so as long as the internal ECU temp is reporting as <70c you should be fine. Best to confirm this before you go into work around heat shielding it. to check yourself you can just press f12 to view runtime values and its in one of the tabs.
  13. cj

    Aux9/10 supply error

    you have TPS main and sub round the wrong way. Your TPS main must span the full range of motion, while the TPS sub can max out earlier. Yours is somewhere between 55 and 60. switch over the main and sub TPS assignments and re-run the calibration. The flapping behaviour you see at abotu 7 seconds and later in the log is usually caused by misconfigured PID values. have you set these up as per the values in the help files? There is a process to tune them manually if these values dont work but its a bit involved and they are usually a pretty resonable starting point.
  14. cj


    What sort of advice? There are some pretty good general guidelines for wiring in the help files - eg planning out your inputs and outputs, things to check before first start, etc
  15. cj

    E-Throttle aux9/10 fault

    you have a wiring problem, not a config problem as Adam pointed out above, but its more clearly visible in the latest log, your input voltage received by the 9/10 supply line drops off about 1.5 seconds *before* your ethrottle relay output is cut by the ECU. Key point in the below screenshot red: engine starts cranking, supply voltage drops from 12.8 ish to 10.8 ish (normal) this line also follow battery voltage exactly (also normal) blue: engine fires up, cant see it here but RPM jumps from 300 ish cranking rpm to 1500. ethrottle supply voltage also dies at this point. "tp not on target" error counter starts to go up because the throttle is no longer controlled by the ECU. black: "tp not on target" error reaches cutoff threshold and the ethrottle relay output is cut off. How easy is it to backprobe these relays? i'd be interested to know if when things fail, while the engine is still running, if pin 86 and 30 on the ethrottle relay are still showing battery voltage. Following your diagram, For one reason or another the ECU isn't receiving voltage on the aux9/10 input pin, even though it has the aux7 "eth relay" output grounded. You say you've already swapped the relay so thats unlikely to be the problem.if you are still seeing battery voltage "into" both pins on the relay, then your problem is either the wire/connectors between the eth relay pin 87 and the ECU aux9/10 pin, or the wire from aux7 to pin85 on the eth relay (remember that if the relay isnt seeing the Ground from the ECU then it will cut out). To test the aux7->pin85 wire, with the engine still running and pin85 backprobed with a multimeter, change the aux7 output to GP out test and then toggle it on/off see if the signal makes it to the relay. your meter should jump between open circuit or 6v ish, to Ground when you swap the output status. You can also change it to high side drive and check you receive 12v at that pin (this will not damage the relay).