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cj

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cj last won the day on July 16

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  1. cj

    Base timing on ez30r

    The crank pulley is keyed and there are 2 round indents on the crank pulley itself. When turning the engine clockwise (ie normal bolt tightening direction), when the second one it straight up is tdc. Have a watch of this video to see for yourself, or remove your crank pulley and shine a torch in the timing cover behind it. There is an arrow on the chain pulley that points up at TDC, this means the key on the crank is at 3 oclock position, and the second dot faces straight up. I'll check on the one I have out of the car later on but I dont think there is a mark on the timing cover, so just set the engine at TDC and get your white marker pen and make one. Make a line on the crank pulley instead of just that round dot while you're at it. You can also pull the number 1 spark plug and turn the engine by hand with a screwdriver/drinking straw/anything similar pushed into the spark plug hole to get TDC within a few degrees if the crank pulley is hard to remove.
  2. cj

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    distance to empty?
  3. cj

    Car stalls while driving and clutch is pressed

    As Adam says your TP calibration is off which means the ECU (or us) have no idea whether main/sub or a completely random value is what TPS % you actually have. The target table being 2.5% but needing ~4% might not be such a big deal because you're also getting 1.5% ish added from your base idle table so the target % is around 4 anyway. There is another thing that wont be helping either... your ignition table looks ok but your traction control settings mean it is always pulling 20 deg of timing, so it probably feels really down on power, and when your coming up to idle its running at -5 to -10 deg (ie its bascialy not generating any power and will stall). Either disable traction control, or set the slip percentages to something other than 0 in the tables. (table 2 is always in use in your config)
  4. cj

    ECU no longer firing 2 cylinders...

    What does you wiring diagram look like as far as +12v and grounds to the CDI boxes? Are they the factory wires that used to feed the COP's or something new? If you have a partially damaged ground or 12v feed to the CDI boxes, you essentially limit how much current they can draw from the battery, which in turn slows down how quickly they can recharge. The idea behind a CDI box is that it charges the capacitors comparatively slowly (one per channel according to your manual) and then discharges them into the spark plug when fired. If the capacitor isnt able to fully charge between firing cycles, it will either have a weak spark or no spark when commanded to fire. so... my theory is that there could be a loose connection/bad crimp/partially cut wire somewhere in the circuit that powers the CDI's, and that is limiting how quickly the caps can charge. When you test fire it sequentially(cranking), your engine rpm will be about 180rpm , so with some basic math you have 3rpm per second, and with 2x channels per CDI, that leaves ~160ms between firing events (per cdi), and 330ms between firing events per channel. When running an ignition test you only have 100ms between firing events and each one fires both channels, so there is effectively 50ms per cap to recharge if at a fixed current (or 100ms for both caps but double the current requirement, depending on how you think about it). Following this theory through, it means about 1200rpm is also about 50ms between individual channel firing, and so if you get it running, it may well start to misfire somewhere below 1200rpm. because you're seeing the same behaviour on both CDI's, and it used to run ok, you can probably assume any damage is in a part of the wiring that is shared between both boxes. Testing resistance with a multimeter wont show a problem because the current is so low that it wont care that you're wiring is only allowing say 20% of the current it needs to. What you can do though, is set your multimeter to volts mode, and measure from the battery positive to the CDI 12v input while you try to test fire it. If you have a substantial voltage drop between these points it will show up as + or - voltage on the multimeter and will indicate resistance in the wire when current is pulled through it. Be sure to test both + and - sides of the circuit, either one would cause the same issue. It may be easier to disconnect the wires from the CDI and connect a more "stable" but still high current load such as a head light bulb if the multimeter voltage jumps around too much while trying to measure it.
  5. cj

    ECU no longer firing 2 cylinders...

    Because you've got 2 slightly different failure modes between left and right side, swap the boxes over left to right and confirm the fault follows the box. Also try swapping front and back outputs and inputs on each CDI box. This will mean your ecu>spark plug mapping is still correct, but you'll be using the opposite channels within the CDI box. Depending on the wiring effort, you could also swap the wiring around so instead of being left and right, the CDI boxes ran front 2 and back 2 cylinders. My idea here is to rule out anything (ie grounding, shorts between certain wires) that is only impacting the front 2 cylinders.
  6. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    I think you're half right. The VVT system in the ECU allows for this if you have VVT offset for trigger 2 set correctly. Yours is probably not correct - you have the offset as 720degrees, which seems unlikely. Run the cam angle test to figure out the value you should have here As per the help file: I would have expected trigger 2 errors from this being wrong rather than trigger 1 (crank) errors, but it might help.
  7. the builtin resistor on the AN temp inputs is 1k, so you can either re-calculate the voltages on the AEM spreadsheet using this, or you can input the Ohms ratings directly into the calibration. I'm not sure what the calibration for the ford sensor is (what you currently have configured) but the only 1 I could find on google wasnt close at all. The below screenshots show how to calibrate this manually. As far as KPH>MPH of degC to degF, you can configure a mulitplier to do this in the scalars tab of the CD5 app, the "MPH" after the number is just text you can change too. It has some predefined values you can copy - eg KPH to MPH. copy this number into the scalar that is configured for wheelSpeedX in the outputs tab. (multiplied by 10 or 0.1 or whatever the scalar value already is to make it sensible.) Boost target is certainly a parameter the Link ECU can send over CAN but I dont think its its the default CAN template so you'll have to define it yourself on a second channel as a user stream. You'll have to configure the CD5 to receive it too by adding a new can receive message with the same ID and byte position you tell the link to use for the second stream. You'll also need to set up a scalar and output in the CD5 config, and modify the display to include this value.
  8. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    in my experience changing a trigger from rising to falling while the engine is running almost always causes it to stall. Get the trigger scope like Adam says first, but also try running the trigger 1 calibration with the trigger set to rising and see if you get an offset a few degrees different, then try starting it again.
  9. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    You could try switching to spark cut limiter. Some engines dont take too kindly to this if used repeatedly but it should give you a good test. I've never had to set up a limiter on a boat where the force acting against the engine will change rapidly at high RPM like this so cant give you any numbers. I dont think you're hitting the hard limit as the highest fuel cut logged is 63%. This suggests that when you hit the start cut level, its having such a big impact that you dont get any further into the limit range. The data isnt that granular though so its hard to tell if this is correct. Assuming it is, try dropping the "start cut TP100" number to 30 and the start cut TPLow number to maybe 15-20. You could also try making the limit range a bit bigger at 300 or 400rpm. The idea here to let the fuel cut come in more gradually so it doesnt have such a kick to it. You could also try bumping up the exit decay rate but its already pretty high. This would still put you well outside RPM limit at 8300 cruise RPM. Is this turbo or supercharged? Reason I ask is figuring out whether to be worried about turbo spool in the way the limiter works.
  10. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    In the logs the effect of this is called Accel Fuel. You can see it kick in for a couple data points then drop off right when you hit the throttle. There is another thing that might be relevant too and its hard to tell them apart over such a short time frame as depending on the distance between your engine and the lambda sensor it can take a few data points for inputs to affect lambda. Your RPM hits the RPM limit for a brief second, and because of this, you see a 8degree ignition cut which drops your RPM by about 1000rpm. I'm assuming at some point about the same time the water pressure against the impeller starts to slow the engine down too, but it looks like either that drop in MAP+RPM moving you to a lower cell in the fuel table or maybe a fuel cut RPM limit causes the injector pulse to drop from just over 10ms to about 6ms immediately before the lean spike. It then recovers up to about 8ms at stead state high rpm. Maybe you can try reducing the harshness of your RPM limiter to prevent this sudden drop in load+fueling? Have a read of the RPM limit parameters in the help file. In a lot of cases the limit will begin to apply earlier than you would think - eg the various window parameters mean it starts pulling fuel/spark that many RPM before the specified limit.
  11. cj

    Low Vacuum, unresponsive throttle

    You've got some very high numbers in the ethrottle target + idle targets. assuming you want an idle at 1500rpm, you've got a base throttle target of 7%, + (when cold - 20ECT) another 9.8% from base idle table, so at least 16% throttle opening at "idle". i'd imagine it tries to idle more at 3k or so? Check in a log what the TPS main value is. If its over 6-8% its probably too high and you need to bring this down as a starting point. Simple test to see if that leak is your problem - either turn off idle control and change the ethrottle target to 0 while its idling, or pull the ethrottle plug and push the throttle closed by hand - if it stays running, you have a big leak.
  12. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    You probably need to set up acceleration enrichment. This applies an extra burst of fuel during throttle changes to account for exactly this. I need to see a log or pclr file to be certain but the fact the AFR initially drops suggests that you have this enabled already but just need to configure it to hold that extra fuel for a bit longer.
  13. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    Can you please post your pclr file and a trigger scope log showing trigger 1 and 2?
  14. cj

    R32 Skyline AC engagement.

    It sound like your problem is that the AC/heater control module signal isnt being received/understood by the ECU. (this is the AC request, and should be wired to one of the digital inputs). Its also possible you have some incorrect settings in the ECU so that an incoming request isnt triggering clutch output. Your first check should be fire up the runtime values screen (f12) with the laptop connected, and see if you see the AC request DI register as "ON" when you press the AC button on the control unit. If you can make the clutch engage by swapping the polarity of your AC clutch output from low>high then the wiring from the ECU to the physical AC clutch on the engine is ok. You should set the polarity to whatever makes it OFF under normal circumstances (polarity low = on if your wiring is the same as the diagram i'm looking at). You will either need to check your wiring diagram or with a multimeter, but the one I'm looking at says the AC amp grounds pin 15 (connects to pin 46 on the factory ECU) to make an AC request, and that the test to check you AC functionality is to ground this pin at the ECU and see if AC starts working. This means you should have the relevant DI set up as AC request, on level = low, and probably pullup=on. This should be enough to get the AC request to be triggered in the F12 screen and then we can look at how the ECU is controlling the AC clutch.
  15. cj

    Wheel speed issue

    If you log DI5 do you see any input? I've seen it before where a DI was set to VSS, but the setting under chassis>speed sources was still set to "none" and so even though the DI log would show a kph value, it wasnt being recognized as "vehicle speed" by the internal processes in the ECU. [edit] noticed you had already posted a log and it shows no frequency input on any DI, so this is not your issue right now.
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