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cj

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cj last won the day on July 10

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  1. You can build one using these chips for a few $ https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4024-7-stage-ripple-carry-counter-divider-cmos-ic/p/ZC4024 Depending on which output you take the signal from it will divide by 2/4/8/16/32/64/128 I've used these in the past to adapt high frequency gearbox outputs down to something that can be fed to a DI at lower frequency and they have worked fine. Only thing to check is whether you need a pullup on the input & output circuits - input you need to add a pullup resistor to 5v or 12v, output side (ECU input side) you do in the ECU config for the DI.
  2. cj

    RPM CUT Link G4+

    can you grab a trigger scope at idle and about 5-6k? Those dwell spikes are a similar symptom as what Richard Hill was talking about with trigger or timing issues.
  3. cj

    Cruise Control PID

    Having re-read your original post I think i got slightly mixed up by your mention of ethrottle TB swaps & PID. There are 2x set of PID's relevant here, 1 in the Ethrottle config itself, which is what I suggested you test, and it seems to be fine. This is used to translate TP target into TP motor voltages to move the throttle plate The second completely independent PID's are for the cruise control system itself - ie these are the settings the ECU uses to determine what TP target should be in order to add/remove 5kph or whatever it needs to hit speed target. The numbers you posted look like the cruise control PID's, and so you should change those to fix constant speedup/slowdown. Technically this would be considered "overshoot" on the PID algorithm, and you can either reduce I or increase D to stop this happening. Small changes at a time are a good idea.
  4. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    lambda going lean would line up with fuel delivery problems. Because you have it working with a factory ECU we can likely rule out mechanical issues - blocked air or fuel filter, faulty fuel pump, bad regulator, etc. Based on this, this only this I can see in the config that would impact fuel pressure is if the fuel pump isnt being controlled properly by the link ECU. I'm assuming all the pinouts etc are correct, which just leaves the fuel pump control being wrong - maybe its not sending the right signal to run the pump at full power, maybe the PWM signal needs to go to 12v instead of ground or vice versa. Looking at the wiring diagram, these dont run a simple on/off relay, but a separate fuel pump controller, and there is a pin that is PWM'd to tell the fuel pump controller how hard to drive the pump. My money is on the config for this pwm signal being wrong (or maybe on the wrong pin, so it stays on low power at all times) - hence my suggestion that if you dont see any improvement from ecu config changes, put ground or 12v straight to the controller so it runs full power, then you know what the voltage needs to be and can work backwards from there to make it happen.
  5. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    I think its something to do with your fuel pump control causing the pump to shut off or go into low output mode. The bit where your foot is flat, but your RPM is dropping is the key point for me. Can you get your wideband running so we can see if its going rich/lean while the revs drop at full throttle? Alternately, get a fuel pressure gauge/sensor installed? Maybe try setting the fuel control cutover to something like 4k & 50% DC as a test, and if that makes no difference, try disconnecting pin aux2 from the ECU and applying straight 12v to it (which should force the pump to high throughput mode)
  6. Can you do a log of this happening + post your map? it sounds like you are exceeding one of the parameters that needs to be met to let one of the idle systems kick in. Maybe ignition idle control never kicks in and your timing values in the main igntition table are too high for the revs to drop.
  7. what does the wiring to those 2 solenoids look like? Is the ECU grounding an output to turn them on, and what does the wiring on the "other" side of them look like - ie is it permanent 12v, switched, via some other relay? Have you got anything else connected to the ecu that is permanently fed 12? injectors, coils etc?
  8. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    A log will be helpful, but as a starting point, your ignition table being 0 or negative just off idle is going to cause weirdness Try setting these cells to say 15 in 500 & 1000 columns, and 20 in the 1500 column. This will make it idle higher and mean you need to drop the idle valve numbers or adjust your idle screw, but it will stop the savage jump in power output between idle & 2k rpm.
  9. cj

    Cam Position Parameter Lag

    It doesnt do this. If you have configured spark as "direct", its always direct.
  10. The wiring diagram i'm looking at for 2008 WRX's shows the temp gauge on the dash as canbus. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Impreza/2008/Impreza 2008/ The diagram you have matches what i've got for a 2007 model. As long as you have the 2007 version of the ECU, the CAN pins are free (plug C 27 & 35) so you could de-pin them from the main connector and wire them up to the canbus pins on the ECU. I'd be hesitant to just bridge onto the wires as even though they are unused, only the link guys could tell you if they are still physically wired to something. If you have the 2006 spec ECU, one of those pins is ANVolt5 so you would lose this input by doing this. Theres a pretty good chance these use the same device ID's as the legacy's of similar years, and so if you wire up the canbus pins and transmit a user defined stream on ID 600, @ 20hz with bit 3 set to ECT +40 it should make the temp gauge work There are a other parameters transmitted via CAN to get the whole dash to work however. This guy has a good starting point but if you want everything to work you will need to do some testing & captures with your own vehicle with the factory ECU installed. https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages I suspect you wont see vehicle speed registered in the ECU out of the box either - the abs unit feeds the dash, but expects the ECM to receive this via CAN. Either set the ECU to receive this on the right ID, or jumper into the Pink/Green wire (pin31 on the dash or pin5 in the OP connector) to get a traditional VSS signal on whatever DI the ECU used to receive VSS on with the older models. Receive VSS is probably 16 bits on ID512 on bytes 3 & 2 (byte 3 is the bigger half of the number), and the value sent is 16x the actual value, so a received value of 1000 = 62.5kph. FYI the reason it goes full hot is because the temp gauge wires to the ECU (so this should read right), then ECU sends CAN to the body computer, and the body computer sends CAN (on a different bus) to the gauges. Error state for that second temp message is 0xFF (ie as hot as it can read), and because the body computer isnt getting a signal from the ECU, it's in error state. I suspect your ABS warning is because of a similar lack of canbus comms from the ECU to the ABS unit, but i'm not sure which value you will need to send to keep it happy.
  11. cj

    Cruise Control PID

    grab a log while this is happening and check for the following to determine if its a problem with the throttle body control, or further up the stack. TP target % vehicle speed (may be LR wheel speed or similar) TP main % MAP If TP target % is moving up and down in time with the behaviour you are describing, then the ECU is changing what its actually requesting and the problem is further up. If TP target is constant, but TP main % jumps around in time with your problem then its a PID control issue. Also, make sure MAP & vss show some kind of change to match the feeling you describe. If the ECU isnt showing speed changes or load(MAP) changes, at all, then it might be something outside of the ECU entirely (abs, alignment, tyres, etc)
  12. cj

    K20 Base Map

    This should get you started k20z4-27-550-ve-566.pclr Its running EvoX injectors so you will need to change the injector config to whatever you have. The inputs & outputs will need adjusting to your vehicle too, this is in an mr2 with ethrottle. If you are cable throttle you will need to set up idle control separately.
  13. Yep, the value you want is "% ethanol", but through some quirk of the UI, if you search for either "%" or "ethanol" you wont find it. filter by "alphabetical" and its the very first one. Yours bounces between 78 & 79% in that log. The same sensor provides eth% and fuel temp, all over the same digital input. Just a guess, but the second O2 sensor (or its controller) may not be wired to anvolt8. Its quite possible this was the factory wiring input for a narrowband o2 sensor, and isnt connected to anything at all right now. You could try changing one or both of these to "voltage 0-5v" so they log the raw values received, then drive to the end of the road and back. The voltages you receive should give you some idea if any device is connected to that pin. I'm sure somewhere there is an OEM sensor that has 5 wires on a narrowband sensor, but you are correct that any of the common bosch 4.2 or 4.9 5-wire sensors are wideband.
  14. bit of a caveat - we can only see what is *configured* in the ECU. If something is wired up but the input is configured as disabled, we wont see it in your log or config. The only inputs you have configured are coolant & intake temp, MAP, 4x inputs from pedal and throttle position, and 2x lambda sensors, neither of which gives a useful reading, then wheel speed, brake & clutch switches, AC state, and ethanol % & temp as Digital inputs. I don't think its the case, but you may also be getting some info in via CAN with the pre-defined audiTT can config you have set up. You don't have any multi-fuel setup so even though the ECU knows you have ~80% ethanol, it does not apply any corrections because of this value - if you ever change to non-E85 or get low quality E85, your tune will not compensate for this. The innovate LC1 it looks like you have on ANVolt9 is outputting its the max rich voltage the whole time, so its clearly not working right - maybe dead sensor to match your gauge? The narrwoband sensor you have configured on ANvolt8 is similarly reading a constant, junk value, which is so low it may not even be hooked up (max lean value). This type of sensor is borderline useless anyway even if it works so I wouldnnt bother trying to fix it. The 5 wire o2 sensors typically need an external controller to convert the signals into something the ECU can use, then either CAN or a voltage input to the ECU. follow the wires and see where they connect? Your gauge will have a version of this controller inside it for the second o2 sensor. Similarly, an EGT probe needs a controller and cannot connect directly to the ECU
  15. Those stats are potentially quite old - 2315 starts & 272hours of engine runtime. it may be time to clear them out. In this particular log, inj DC only hits 52% and ECU temp is 37-38 deg which is fine. Your Lambda sensor is not connected in this log so we cant comment much on fuelling or the possible lean condition your tuner talks about. Your injectors however are no where near maxed out, so if you are running out of fuel, and increasing the numbers in your fuel table does not help, you might want to get a fuel pressure sensor installed and check that you aren't losing pressure (ie that your pump can flow enough, filter not blocked, big enough lines, etc). There are no trigger or cam errors, and your dwell looks consistent, so no obvious evidence of timing issues. I have no idea if your ignition angles are "good" for this engine as i'm not familiar with them. They look reasonably normal for a modern 4cyl turbo though. What specifically are you concerned about?
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