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Everything posted by cj

  1. Thats a very short log so we may not have the whole picture, but it is not showing any rpm value, suggesting your trigger 1 or 2 is not working correctly. If it smells of fuel at this point, check for leaks as the pump is likely running but the injectors are not firing so you should not really smell fuel. Look at your trigger 1 & 2 configs and follow the set up process for the nissan opto 360 trigger in the help file. You will need a timing light to complete this. You should see ~200rpm while cranking, and until you get this, spark/fuel/etc will not fire as they have no idea where the engine is in its rotation.
  2. cj

    B20 w/ Direct Spark

    you dont have to drive it while running a trigger scope. just hold rpm at the number you want while the car is in neutral. I'm assuming that capture was at idle? those little bumps look to align with the teeth on the primary trigger so are probably the "other" trigger wheel teeth going too close to the trigger2 pickup. They dont really matter as long as they are less than the arming threshold. At the RPM you have captured they are fine, but if they get up to near 3.5v higher in the rpm then they might mess up your triggering. Hold rpm at 6 or 7k (while standing still in neutral) and run the capture again.
  3. cj

    B20 w/ Direct Spark

    Get the engine running, connect pclink, the click ECU Control -> Trigger scope. It will save a log file with only 2x values - the trigger 1 & 2 voltages as the ECU sees them. Either noise in this signal, or the wires being "backwards" at the sensor itself can cause triggering issues
  4. Between 1:45 & 1:50 in that log the dwell time jumps repeatedly from ~3.3ms to ~1.3ms. This combined with the slightly fuzzy rpm line _might_ means trigger issues. Your trigger error counter doesnt increase, but it would be worth taking a trigger scope capture at about 2700-3k rpm to have a look. Your AFR's look fine in that log. You will likely never get it to hit AFR target immediately on changing throttle position because of accel enrichment, and the fact that CL lambda is a reactive thing. It looks to hit target within about 1/2 a second when you hold the throttle though which is pretty normal. At about 2:00 there is a 5 second block where you press the gas pedal repeatedly to ~90%, but your throttle target never gets over 50%. This may be intentional in your ethrottle target table, but it does make me wonder if there is something wrong there. The other thing I notice is around your boost control at 2:50 -2:55 & 3:00 -3:05. your boost pressure jumps up & down and it looks like your wastegate duty cycle jumps from 0 to 55% and back repeatedly. I'd guess you have open loop boost control set up and a pretty big jump from 0 to 55% at about 135-140kpa?
  5. cj

    B20 w/ Direct Spark

    can you grab a trigger scope at idle & at ~6-7k rpm. If your VR sensors are wired backwards it can cause high rpm trigger issues but work just fine at lower rpm. You also have trigger priority set to trigger2, normally this would be trigger 1. Not sure if its relevant yet, but it looks like it starts getting noisy signal at the point vtec is enabled @ 5800. May just be a conincidence, but if looking at trigger settings gets you nowhere, move vtec up or down 1k rpm & see if the problem follows it.
  6. First thing, your fuel pressure is going to be gauge pressure not absolute - so your 0.5 & 4.5v values should be 0 & 1035kpa, not +100 like you currently have, but this isn't your problem. Can you change anV8 to "voltage 0-5V" and check what it shows as the input voltage? Something isnt adding up here... To get a reading of 1470kpa you would need an input voltage of ~5.8v, but you have "error high" set as 4.95v so ~5.8v would show as an error value. Your last run stats on that pclr file confirm that it is indeed showing 1470kpa on anv8, but also that it considers that input to be within normal range. Assuming the voltage input is 1.75-2v as expected, try using a different cal table (7-10) and see if its a bug.
  7. isn't SI drive just a throttle mapping thing on the manuals? you can already set 2x throttle maps in the Link ECU regardless of what the ABS computer has to say about it. Assuming you wanted to use the factory dial to select them, you just need to figure out where that wiring actually goes. Specifically, you need to figure out which of the Body unit -> ECU flags tell the ECU to Set a specific map. I can tell you already that the SI drive switch is physically wired back to the gauge cluster, and the only canbus output from the gauge cluster is on low speed CAN to the Body control module. We can therefore conclude that the dash must send a CAN message to the BCM, and the BCM must send on a different can message on high speed can to the ECM. In my tests body unit was ID 514, so i'd just capture a few seconds of you changing the si drive mode and check what flags are set/changed on this ID. Remember the link only has 2 modes so you probbaly dont need to worry about the limits on allowing sport#, just get the flags for default & sport, and set the link up so that if it receives the default flag (map that id/byte to receive || can-DI#1, then set a virtual AUX out with condition of X value), then switch to ethrottle map #2 when virtual aux1 is active. None of this will fix your abs light however as it doesnt touch it, and you are right, figuring out why its unhappy is the first step. maybe you can read errors/parameters from freeSSM or jumper a test connector etc and see what errors ABS is throwing, and this might help you figure it out.
  8. https://web.archive.org/web/20151220002254/https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages/ still there on web archive. looks like 0x410 on byte 4 according to that blog. Looking at the notes i've got from my testing, 410-4, 411-3, 412-0, and 412-5 all produced something that looked approximately like an APS signal. If you overlay all 4 of these on a single graph you notice that 412-5 bottoms out at about 23 (out of 255), so I assume this is either TPS pos or TPS request. Also, 411-3 maxes out at 235 rather than going all the way to 255, so again, I assume this is not APS, but is something around torque/tps request as its clearly not actual APS, that I know went all the way to 100%. that leaves 410-4 & 412-0 as possibilities. I decided that APS % was most likely 412-0 in my case (2005 legacy) because it was the only one that seemed to follow my attempt at a linear pedal press. The others all had a slow ramp up, which matches the response i'd noramlly feel. Have a look at bit of software called freeSSM (that I didnt know about back when I first did this) that will show you the parameters as the ECU sees them (its a reverse engineered version of subaru select monitor). With this info as well you may be able to correlate the can info better to internal ecu parameters
  9. cj

    Hard time starting

    Bit of a hack job, but with a start switch config, and no other use for secondary ignition table, you can set up dual ignition table, and set the table 2 trigger to be DI2 (your start button). Then set ign table 2 to be a single value -2*. This means as long as you keep the start button pressed, its going to fire at -2 degrees regardless of what RPM it thinks it is seeing. It wont stop the starter kicking on and off, but it will stop it getting kickback as described by Brad if it sees 3k rpm because of trigger errors and jumps up to a "real" load point on the ign1 table. Speeding up the rotation speed during cranking process like this (by firing on the down stroke) may help prevent the trigger issues that cause the RPM spikes in the first place too.
  10. cj

    E36link issue

    That trigger 2 trace does not look like a hall effect signal. The crank signal looks like hall. Are you 100% sure you have hall effect sensors (3 wire) on both cam & crank? Best guess from that trigger scope is you have a VR cam sensor installed but configured in the ECU as a hall effect sensor. You wont be able to run it with the current sensor as cam level because the cam signal never stays high. you *might* be able to get it to run as cam pulse x1 with the right voltage thresholds set but it seems like the "good" option is to find the right cam sensor to match the cam you have in there (looks like a single tooth 180* cam-level cam trigger). swapping sensors etc might get interesting for your piggy back config though depending on what the factory ECU is still doing (ie is it sending RPM to the dash?) Can you post your config? I want to check the settings you have for trigger2.
  11. that link looks chinese. I've never used chinese map sensors, but I have tried to use chinese fuel pressure sensors a few times and seen badly inconsistent results. I'd suggest pulling a genuine GM part off a junkyard car if you want to do it on the cheap. That amazon listing has a list of all the cars you should go looking for. [edit] you could also dig up the service manual for any of the cars this came from or the GM part number info for the compatible products listed, and see if you can find a voltage->pressure calibration graph. Enter this manually into the link ECU. if your pressure with engine off is not really close to BAP, then the part in front of you does not follow the GM calibration and you should not use it unless you can find a known good calibration from the vendor (or you have a good vacuum/pressure gauge to test it yourself). I would not reccomend just trying random calibration options until atmospheric pressue matches. You would have no idea if the rest of the calibration slope matches the sensor in front of you - only the 1x point at atmospheric pressure.
  12. As long as you have a calibration for the new sensor, and the old one was also calibrated correctly, you will not need a re-tune. Be sure to run the Calibrate MAP-BAP process once you have slected the new calibration/sensor type in the settings.
  13. grab a trigger scope while cranking. Lets see if its seeing a good crank signal
  14. cj

    High Idle Rpm On Start Up

    it seems like you are relying pretty heavily on ignition idle control to keep idle RPM at cold temps. try dropping the ignition 1 table value for the 20 kpa row from 1500 up to ~3k rpm by 10 points - ie keep it below 20*. You'll only hit this on overrun & at idle anyway so it should just mean a bit more engine braking if you notice it at all while driving. It might be worth running the open loop idle tuning process to set your base idle numbers a bit closer to "correct" then switch back to closed loop. You havent logged closed loop correction percentages but your idle actual % is quite a lot different from your target table, and I dont see that many fixed corrections that would account for it, so its likely closed loop correction. All of that being said, it looks like either your throttle is a bit gummed up at cold temps or your idle valve sticks. The MAP value drops away real slowly after startup, and comparing 0:08-0:09 (where it drops rpm happily) vs a few seconds earlier, the MAP value can clearly hit 10kpa when the engine "wants" to drop rpm, but at what it says are the same idle, TPS, and ignition angle, its only showing 25-30kpa, suggesting air is getting in somewhere. Try re-running your TPS calibration once the engine is hot too. You havent logged enough parameters to be sure, but for the sticking throttle theory to be correct, you would have had to run the calibration when it was cold/sticking so it reads "0%" when its actually 1% or below - ie your tps% doesnt reflect the real throttle opening. the reason it bounces around like that at 3k is because fuel cut is coming in and out because you are so far above idle that it thinks you are in overrun / rolling to a stop so it cuts fuel completely. your lamba sensor goes full lean for about 10 seconds right after startup too. I assume this is just something the controller does when starting itself up but it could be worth looking into as well as its not lining up with the fuel inputs at the time so I dont think its a real value.
  15. cj

    Hold Step Idle Control

    Hold step applies in the scenario where you are driving at above idle rpm (say 4k), then you put in the clutch and get off the gas - lets say you want to roll to a stop. As your revs drop, you want it to initally hold a few hundred RPM higher than idle so that it doesnt shoot staright past idle rpm and stall. Hold step is the amount of "extra" idle valve %/steps that is initally applied to catch the dropping revs, above what your idle table would normally command. EG your idle is normally 800rpm @ 50% idle control opening. hold step is 5%. when you get off the gas from high rpm, the idle valve will sit at 55% open, which means your rpm might be say 1000 for a couple seconds then it will drop gradually down to its normal 800 (50% valve opening) over a second or 2 - exact speed depends on various idle response parameters. Startup table is added to your base table to decide the amount of idle valve opening during startup and the first 3 seconds after startup (ie it fades out to normal idle numbers during those 3 seconds)
  16. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    In simple terms, the FP control system is set up so that the ECU tells a separate fuel pump controller whether to run the pumps fast or slow. It does this by sending a voltage (or ground) signal down the aux2 pin when certain cirteria are met. Relevant parameters to your situation are: RPM threshold: the RPM at which point the signal is sent down this wire to the FP controller DC%: injector duty percentage - works as an OR operation with RPM. If you go over this injector duty cycle or this RPM then the control voltage is sent to the controller polarity: whether the "switch to high mode" signal is to send ground or to send "nothing" (ie the "go slower" command is to send ground). The expected state of the FP controller are: off (when the fuel relay is turned off - not relevant here) slow: some pwm'd low output mode fast full flow rate. What i've been trying to explain is that you need to identify how the voltages on that FP controller input (aux 2 output) affect what the controller does with the pump speeds. It sounds like the "dont do anything" signal from the ECU as it stands is "fast mode". This will work fine if you just set both thresholds to really high numbers (10k rpm & 99%DC), but this means you dont have a "slow mode" option for low load times. It just means your pump is noisy-er and wears quicker. If you want to reconfigure this to the point where idle-ish loads swap to low flow mode, you would first need to identify what the signal is that makes it swap to high flow mode, then configure the ECU output to provide that signal. Note that some outputs can send 12v or ground, and some can only send ground or nothing.
  17. Most limits in the link ECU's have a "soft kick in" range. The way this works is if you set a limit value of 7000rpm, and a threshold/soft limit/starting point of 500rpm, the limiter will start to kick in at 7000-500 = 6500rpm. Depending on how much change the engine needs to start "limiting", this may mean the limit is effectively 6500rpm, or it may mean you just start losing power, and the point where it actually "limits" is somewhere between 6500 & 7000rpm. Same thing applies to MAP limits etc. If you run everything in non-advanced limit mode I think it uses something like 300rpm and 10kpa less than your defined limits as the soft starting points. if you swap to advanced limiting settings you can tune this.
  18. cj

    G4+ Supra 2JZ PNP

    sounds like progress. Next thing then is to figure out what FP control settings will make it behave properly. Try changing the polarity of aux2 to high and see if the problem get better/worse. can you hear the fuel pump at idle? Maybe have someone put their head in the boot and check? I'd be tempted to disconnect aux 2 from the ecu temporarily (cut the wire, un-pin it from a connector anywhere between ECU and FP controller), then at idle (so pump is running), connect it to ground, then floating, then 12v and see which connection makes the pumps jump up into high flow mode. From there you can work out what to configure in the ECU, or if you need to add a relay to deliver the right voltage.
  19. unless you've got oil flow issues to the vvt solenoid (blocked screen, old oil, watery oil), then that looks like PID overshoot on the VVT control solenoid. Swap to custom PID mode and increase the D value by 1-2, or reduce I by 0.01-0.02. Try again after each change as you need to be very careful with these settings to prevent advance when you really dont want it. The ECU will warn you "here there be dragons" when you tell it to switch to custom PID mode for VVT - take it seriously.
  20. cj

    Injector impedance setting

    most link's dont have the option to change it as the only support saturated (high impedance) mode. If it exists in your ecu it is under fuel > injector setup. Because you have been running with a ballast resistor in place, the ECU has always been running in high impedance mode so there is nothing you need to change. Low impedance injectors + resistor ~= high impedance injectors. It sound like you already know this, but you need to remove the ballast resistor & bridge the wires that used to go to it, otherwise you have no power to your injectors. Just change the injector dead times, flow rate etc and you should be good to go. You will likely need to re-tune some of your fuel table after this.
  21. Worst case you need to move a coupe base idle table numbers up or down, but your closed loop idle will hide most of that anyway. The rest of your tune (spark/fuel/boost) is unaffected.
  22. Only thing I can think of is because its a stepper motor you need to power cycle the whole car after changing settings as the whole system is based on "X steps from start position" The big assumption here is that start position is always 0. Looking at your log where you said it idled low, weirdly the idle position is 222 @ just under 900rpm with coolant at 87ish and mid 20's IAT. this is quite a ways from the ~230 steps it was showing on your previous log. I wonder if your stepper isnt fully resetting at key off. your hold power value is 0 seconds, try setting it to 3 or 4 seconds and see if things become more consistent.
  23. Heres one I prepared earlier on the ethrottle PID tuning process
  24. that normal warmup log shows that after closed loop idle does its thing, the resulting idle positions at the various temps were: 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 188 198 206 210 216 225 228 You should put these values into the base table and then interpolate up from there - which is pretty flat anyway so 90+ should probably all be 230-235 ish. This will mean closed loop is doing a whole lot less real-time modification to the idle table, and the open loop values that are used before CL can kick in will be much closer to the idle you want. Using these plus the IAT fuel trim changes should help. If idle is still bit unstable try turning on ignition idle control, and if it still hangs just above 1200rpm when it should be idling, try bumping up the "RPM lockout" in idle speed control menu to 500.
  25. The highlighted cells below are the base idle position at a given coolant temp. The cell from 70-100 ish are normal operating temp. You can see in your last log that your coolant temp @ startup was 83deg C so the 80 & 90 cells would be interpolated for this. Try adding 10-20 points to these values and try again. This isnt a 1 step fix, but is a good way to check if we are on the right track - ie we should see some improvement. This is the table you will re-build/re-check in open loop mode (change in "idle speed control") if we cant fix it with small tweaks. FYI you can upload files to google drive/dropbox/onedrive and link them here if the logs are too big. The slow start when warm issue might be the IAT trim you mentioned. Try zeroing out the hot 0% tps cells highlighted below, or maybe even change the 50+ cells (just in the 0% row) to + 3-5%. Heat soak will cause the IAT to read really high which can cause insufficent fuel for warm start. This is likely not the cause of your high idle though.
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