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Everything posted by cj

  1. cj

    Ignition angle in logs vs table

    You havent logged a lot of parameters so its hard to check exactly how this happened, but yep your log says you had 40.6* at 185kpa. Looking at your config I think this has happened because you have dual ignition table set in overlay mode (ie table 1 + table 2 = value to use). Looking at the rest of your config you either didnt intend for this to be used at all (4d ign used instead), or you intended to have it in interpolate/switchover mode between the 2 ign tables (table 2 is roughly 1* higher values than table1, and your "enable" switch for table2 overlay is the say DI9 meth switch you use for 4d enable). You probably want to set dual ignition to disabled given you are handling this in 4d overlay anyway.
  2. cj

    ECU afr not matching stand alone gaugue

    Thats would do it. Adding a relay sounds like a good plan.
  3. cj

    ECU afr not matching stand alone gaugue

    You could try running some rather large wires from battery to the fuel pump relay, then from the relay to the pump, and from the pump to ground. I'm not sure about jetskis but its relatively common in cars for the factory fuel pump wiring to be a bit limiting and people regularly report a volt or 2 lower output across the fuel pump than they expect. Is it possible the ECU and fuel pump share a common power or ground wire somewhere? Can you post the log file, or a screenshot showing battery voltage during the same time window?
  4. cj

    ECU afr not matching stand alone gaugue

    From that log, it looks like you might have some of your wiring or a relay/fuse a bit too small for the amount of current being drawn, which is causing some voltage drop. What does the wiring look like on the positive side of the LC1 and the ECU? Everyone focuses on grounding but voltage drops on the positive side can cause similar offsets if the sensor does not have any internal voltage regulator. At a guess you have some device fed from the same 12v fuse/relay as the ECU or LC1 drawing more current than the wiring can handle, and 3-4 seconds after the engine stop, this device turns off and so stops overloading the wiring. You can measure voltage drop across a wire by setting your multimeter to volts, and sticking one end of the meter at each of the wire while the circuit is live - eg one terminal on the battery negative, one into the back of the ground pin of the LC1. Then try between the engine block and the LC1 ground pin. If you see any meaningful voltage difference, you have some resistance on that path. If you see bascially zero, there is no issue with the level of current passing through (hence why you have to do this running as you're basically testing if the wire is big enough for the current its flowing). Then test the same thing on the ECU grounds > engine block, then LC1 positive to alternator, then LC1 positive to battery. How did you stop the engine without having the ECU power off to generate that log? This might be relevant to why it took a few seconds for the voltage to return to normal. Also, can you try the same checks on both sides of the ECU as well? It's less likely but possible the LC1 wiring is up to scratch, but the ECU wiring is not and this is causing the relative voltages to report wrong. If the voltage reported by the ECU is always the same 2.34V, try pulling out the ANVolt pin and measuring the end of the wire where it should go into the ECU - do you see 2.34V or 2.57v?
  5. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    They are *mostly* independent and will work fine with no connectivity, but you can get some additional control of them via the ECU if you chose to do so. Factory inputs to the SW20 EHPS controller (that matter) are vehicle speed, and PSCT (PS cutout signal), as well as a PS pressure feedback switch that functions like an idle up request. The PSCT signal you can use to cut steering assist fully in certain situations (defaults to on, so obviously you can leave it disconnected if you dont care), and the speed signal you could modify if you wanted - the factory wiring on both the mechanical and electric speedo models runs the speed out from the gearbox straight to the dash, then a separate "speed output" from the dash goes out to EHPS, cruise control, etc. This is still a square wave output so if you wanted to "lie" to the EHPS unit about your speed, or you have changed the wheel size/gearbox sensor/swapped to an aftermarket dash, you could change this wiring so the gearbox feeds the ECU, and the ECU feeds a corrected signal to the EHPS unit + other control units directly.
  6. cj

    Subaru E-Throttle Dead and Codes

    I think your Accel pedal calibration isnt correct. Try re-running the Accel Pedal calibration, then redo the TP calibration. Code 77 relates to AP tracking, and looking at the last recorded runtime values in your config, your AP main and AP sub are way off. Your values in AP calibration also look wrong - the voltages for main and sub are almost identical which isnt usually the case. See the AP percentages and error counter in the below screenshot I'm not sure how you can even get a code 73 on a plugin ECU, maybe one of the link guys can advise if there is an internal power feed to the ethrottle systems that gets cut off in certain circumstances? I suspect this will go away on its own anyway once you fix the APS calibration.
  7. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    That steering pump behaviour sounds about normal. I think there is some sort of pressure/steering angle change sensor in there that backs off the pump after a while as you describe. I set mine up so that it cuts the pump assist when engine RPM is under 400RPM (ie so it doesnt put battery drain on while starting or flatten it really quickly if the key is left on. 80A breaker on that circuit so I assume it can draw a lot of power...), and that it cuts the assist when speed is over 30kph (effectively making it a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds) - gives it a more direct go-kart like steering feel. Was 95 one of the beams engines? If the engine that came with the dash had a distributor you will need to do the resistor swap on the tacho. If it had coil packs, you are good to go (its actually the same tacho, just has the smaller resistor installed already). I did a similar dash swap in mine - 91 to 93 or 94 I think as I needed an electric speedo drive. As long as you get the plugs from the donor car wiring, you can follow the traces on the back of the cluster as its only 1 layer thick, and just pull out all the bulbs and hold it up to the light to see what lights are where. From there its a pretty simple task of matching up which wires go where and attaching the new dash to your old wiring. If I can find the diagram I drew up i'll send it your way.[edit - dash wiring spreadsheet attached below] mr2-dash-wiring2.xlsx
  8. cj

    G4+ Fury first tune 2gr-fe Turbo 92 MR2

    Your calibration for CAL1 for fuel pressure and oil pressure doesnt look to be set up. Not exactly required but having done a similar swap into an sw20 recently there are a couple things you might want to add. 1) the power steer pump controller has an input it takes from the ECU to cut steering assistance. This replicates the mechanical pump steering "doesnt work when engine off". Drive any GP output low to disable steering assist 2) If you havent already done it, you need to replace a certain resistor in the tacho to get it to accept a signal from the ECU. Out of the box it will just make the occasional flicker up to about 100rpm DI6 GP speed wont actually register as vehicle speed. DI6 logging will show speed, but it wont register as driven/vehicle speed. You need to set this to LR or RR wheel speed with the same calibration, also set your speed source to the same wheel under chassis>speed sources.
  9. cj

    MR2 NO SPARK From 1zz COIL ON PLUG!!

    I think you should be able to get a test fire to work on ign5+ but to get the thing to actually run you need to use 1,2,3,4. These are in the factory connector but are by default wired to purge, EGR, and a solenoid that is fast idle or that accoustic intake manifold thing the later 3sge's had or something similar. If you want to keep these functions you should move them to ign 5,6,7 and change your config to match. pinouts should be ign1 = 20, ign2 = 7, ign3 = 8, ign4 = 17 so these are the wires you need to move to the expansion connector (except ign1 obviously) and then connect these ECU pins to your new coils. Check the help file for a diagram.
  10. cj

    MR2 NO SPARK From 1zz COIL ON PLUG!!

    you want to use ign 1,2,3,4 and have it set to direct spark. Not 5678. Have you wired the coils up like this? http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide Check you have got 12v and Gnd at the coils. The trigger voltage sounds about right, remember that when running its actually spiking up and down quickly to trigger the coils so a typical multimeter will show the number jumping around or an average number which doesnt really mean much. Have you got spark edge set to rising?
  11. cj

    MR2 NO SPARK From 1zz COIL ON PLUG!!

    Have you set the base timing? Can you run successful spark test to each coil and confirm the cylinder numbering matches the ignition channel (you should hear them click) Those dwell numbers should let it start. I've seen reccomendations for 1zz coils anywhere from about 3.2 @ 14v to about 2.5 @ 14v so you're in the ballpark.
  12. cj

    Base timing on ez30r

    The crank pulley is keyed and there are 2 round indents on the crank pulley itself. When turning the engine clockwise (ie normal bolt tightening direction), when the second one it straight up is tdc. Have a watch of this video to see for yourself, or remove your crank pulley and shine a torch in the timing cover behind it. There is an arrow on the chain pulley that points up at TDC, this means the key on the crank is at 3 oclock position, and the second dot faces straight up. I'll check on the one I have out of the car later on but I dont think there is a mark on the timing cover, so just set the engine at TDC and get your white marker pen and make one. Make a line on the crank pulley instead of just that round dot while you're at it. You can also pull the number 1 spark plug and turn the engine by hand with a screwdriver/drinking straw/anything similar pushed into the spark plug hole to get TDC within a few degrees if the crank pulley is hard to remove.
  13. cj

    350Z+ G4+ questions

    distance to empty?
  14. cj

    Car stalls while driving and clutch is pressed

    As Adam says your TP calibration is off which means the ECU (or us) have no idea whether main/sub or a completely random value is what TPS % you actually have. The target table being 2.5% but needing ~4% might not be such a big deal because you're also getting 1.5% ish added from your base idle table so the target % is around 4 anyway. There is another thing that wont be helping either... your ignition table looks ok but your traction control settings mean it is always pulling 20 deg of timing, so it probably feels really down on power, and when your coming up to idle its running at -5 to -10 deg (ie its bascialy not generating any power and will stall). Either disable traction control, or set the slip percentages to something other than 0 in the tables. (table 2 is always in use in your config)
  15. cj

    ECU no longer firing 2 cylinders...

    What does you wiring diagram look like as far as +12v and grounds to the CDI boxes? Are they the factory wires that used to feed the COP's or something new? If you have a partially damaged ground or 12v feed to the CDI boxes, you essentially limit how much current they can draw from the battery, which in turn slows down how quickly they can recharge. The idea behind a CDI box is that it charges the capacitors comparatively slowly (one per channel according to your manual) and then discharges them into the spark plug when fired. If the capacitor isnt able to fully charge between firing cycles, it will either have a weak spark or no spark when commanded to fire. so... my theory is that there could be a loose connection/bad crimp/partially cut wire somewhere in the circuit that powers the CDI's, and that is limiting how quickly the caps can charge. When you test fire it sequentially(cranking), your engine rpm will be about 180rpm , so with some basic math you have 3rpm per second, and with 2x channels per CDI, that leaves ~160ms between firing events (per cdi), and 330ms between firing events per channel. When running an ignition test you only have 100ms between firing events and each one fires both channels, so there is effectively 50ms per cap to recharge if at a fixed current (or 100ms for both caps but double the current requirement, depending on how you think about it). Following this theory through, it means about 1200rpm is also about 50ms between individual channel firing, and so if you get it running, it may well start to misfire somewhere below 1200rpm. because you're seeing the same behaviour on both CDI's, and it used to run ok, you can probably assume any damage is in a part of the wiring that is shared between both boxes. Testing resistance with a multimeter wont show a problem because the current is so low that it wont care that you're wiring is only allowing say 20% of the current it needs to. What you can do though, is set your multimeter to volts mode, and measure from the battery positive to the CDI 12v input while you try to test fire it. If you have a substantial voltage drop between these points it will show up as + or - voltage on the multimeter and will indicate resistance in the wire when current is pulled through it. Be sure to test both + and - sides of the circuit, either one would cause the same issue. It may be easier to disconnect the wires from the CDI and connect a more "stable" but still high current load such as a head light bulb if the multimeter voltage jumps around too much while trying to measure it.
  16. cj

    ECU no longer firing 2 cylinders...

    Because you've got 2 slightly different failure modes between left and right side, swap the boxes over left to right and confirm the fault follows the box. Also try swapping front and back outputs and inputs on each CDI box. This will mean your ecu>spark plug mapping is still correct, but you'll be using the opposite channels within the CDI box. Depending on the wiring effort, you could also swap the wiring around so instead of being left and right, the CDI boxes ran front 2 and back 2 cylinders. My idea here is to rule out anything (ie grounding, shorts between certain wires) that is only impacting the front 2 cylinders.
  17. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    I think you're half right. The VVT system in the ECU allows for this if you have VVT offset for trigger 2 set correctly. Yours is probably not correct - you have the offset as 720degrees, which seems unlikely. Run the cam angle test to figure out the value you should have here As per the help file: I would have expected trigger 2 errors from this being wrong rather than trigger 1 (crank) errors, but it might help.
  18. the builtin resistor on the AN temp inputs is 1k, so you can either re-calculate the voltages on the AEM spreadsheet using this, or you can input the Ohms ratings directly into the calibration. I'm not sure what the calibration for the ford sensor is (what you currently have configured) but the only 1 I could find on google wasnt close at all. The below screenshots show how to calibrate this manually. As far as KPH>MPH of degC to degF, you can configure a mulitplier to do this in the scalars tab of the CD5 app, the "MPH" after the number is just text you can change too. It has some predefined values you can copy - eg KPH to MPH. copy this number into the scalar that is configured for wheelSpeedX in the outputs tab. (multiplied by 10 or 0.1 or whatever the scalar value already is to make it sensible.) Boost target is certainly a parameter the Link ECU can send over CAN but I dont think its its the default CAN template so you'll have to define it yourself on a second channel as a user stream. You'll have to configure the CD5 to receive it too by adding a new can receive message with the same ID and byte position you tell the link to use for the second stream. You'll also need to set up a scalar and output in the CD5 config, and modify the display to include this value.
  19. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    in my experience changing a trigger from rising to falling while the engine is running almost always causes it to stall. Get the trigger scope like Adam says first, but also try running the trigger 1 calibration with the trigger set to rising and see if you get an offset a few degrees different, then try starting it again.
  20. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    You could try switching to spark cut limiter. Some engines dont take too kindly to this if used repeatedly but it should give you a good test. I've never had to set up a limiter on a boat where the force acting against the engine will change rapidly at high RPM like this so cant give you any numbers. I dont think you're hitting the hard limit as the highest fuel cut logged is 63%. This suggests that when you hit the start cut level, its having such a big impact that you dont get any further into the limit range. The data isnt that granular though so its hard to tell if this is correct. Assuming it is, try dropping the "start cut TP100" number to 30 and the start cut TPLow number to maybe 15-20. You could also try making the limit range a bit bigger at 300 or 400rpm. The idea here to let the fuel cut come in more gradually so it doesnt have such a kick to it. You could also try bumping up the exit decay rate but its already pretty high. This would still put you well outside RPM limit at 8300 cruise RPM. Is this turbo or supercharged? Reason I ask is figuring out whether to be worried about turbo spool in the way the limiter works.
  21. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    In the logs the effect of this is called Accel Fuel. You can see it kick in for a couple data points then drop off right when you hit the throttle. There is another thing that might be relevant too and its hard to tell them apart over such a short time frame as depending on the distance between your engine and the lambda sensor it can take a few data points for inputs to affect lambda. Your RPM hits the RPM limit for a brief second, and because of this, you see a 8degree ignition cut which drops your RPM by about 1000rpm. I'm assuming at some point about the same time the water pressure against the impeller starts to slow the engine down too, but it looks like either that drop in MAP+RPM moving you to a lower cell in the fuel table or maybe a fuel cut RPM limit causes the injector pulse to drop from just over 10ms to about 6ms immediately before the lean spike. It then recovers up to about 8ms at stead state high rpm. Maybe you can try reducing the harshness of your RPM limiter to prevent this sudden drop in load+fueling? Have a read of the RPM limit parameters in the help file. In a lot of cases the limit will begin to apply earlier than you would think - eg the various window parameters mean it starts pulling fuel/spark that many RPM before the specified limit.
  22. cj

    Low Vacuum, unresponsive throttle

    You've got some very high numbers in the ethrottle target + idle targets. assuming you want an idle at 1500rpm, you've got a base throttle target of 7%, + (when cold - 20ECT) another 9.8% from base idle table, so at least 16% throttle opening at "idle". i'd imagine it tries to idle more at 3k or so? Check in a log what the TPS main value is. If its over 6-8% its probably too high and you need to bring this down as a starting point. Simple test to see if that leak is your problem - either turn off idle control and change the ethrottle target to 0 while its idling, or pull the ethrottle plug and push the throttle closed by hand - if it stays running, you have a big leak.
  23. cj

    AFR bounce during instant wot

    You probably need to set up acceleration enrichment. This applies an extra burst of fuel during throttle changes to account for exactly this. I need to see a log or pclr file to be certain but the fact the AFR initially drops suggests that you have this enabled already but just need to configure it to hold that extra fuel for a bit longer.
  24. cj

    Trig1 error when VVT control on

    Can you please post your pclr file and a trigger scope log showing trigger 1 and 2?
  25. cj

    R32 Skyline AC engagement.

    It sound like your problem is that the AC/heater control module signal isnt being received/understood by the ECU. (this is the AC request, and should be wired to one of the digital inputs). Its also possible you have some incorrect settings in the ECU so that an incoming request isnt triggering clutch output. Your first check should be fire up the runtime values screen (f12) with the laptop connected, and see if you see the AC request DI register as "ON" when you press the AC button on the control unit. If you can make the clutch engage by swapping the polarity of your AC clutch output from low>high then the wiring from the ECU to the physical AC clutch on the engine is ok. You should set the polarity to whatever makes it OFF under normal circumstances (polarity low = on if your wiring is the same as the diagram i'm looking at). You will either need to check your wiring diagram or with a multimeter, but the one I'm looking at says the AC amp grounds pin 15 (connects to pin 46 on the factory ECU) to make an AC request, and that the test to check you AC functionality is to ground this pin at the ECU and see if AC starts working. This means you should have the relevant DI set up as AC request, on level = low, and probably pullup=on. This should be enough to get the AC request to be triggered in the F12 screen and then we can look at how the ECU is controlling the AC clutch.