cj

Missing load is the key thing here. Its going to make all the tests suspect. Have you got a test light handy? How about an old fog light or head light bulb - these draw about half the load of a fuel pump so are completely safe to substitute. Unplug the 2 pin plug in front of the shifter that feeds the fuel pump. Connect you headlight bulb instead of the fuel pump. If you want additional numbers, connect your multimeter in parallel. With a ~5amp load sitting there, the voltage should be 0. turn the aux output on, the bulb should light up brightly and you should still see 11+ volt on the meter. If you see 0 and the bulb doesnt light, its likely a broken wire or faulty relay. If you see something like 3 -8v and the light is on very dimly, then you probbaly have a correoded contact or a slightly damaged wire somewhere. Repeat this test but conencted to the outputs on the back of the fuel pump relay in the fuse box. This will tell you if its the wiring from relay->pump thats the problem, or the relay/something before it. Keep checking "easy to get to" places along the path from battery to pump.

I depends when it happens. You need to have a look at the log, but if its during starting and its only <5 events then its probably nothing. If the count is climbing with the engine running, or it always goes up a few points at a certain rpm range then its worth looking at.

hook your sensor to any an volt thats free, configure it as oil pressure, set the calibration correctly, then one common option is to set a GP RPM limit similar to this. It effectively applies the limiter at ~2krpm if oil pressure drops below ~400kpa at high rpm, and lower values at low rpm. You need to run some logging to see what normal pressure is for your engine before deciding on the values you will use. If you only see 300kpa at high rpm then this table will just stop you ever revving it out.

If you arent worried about different throttle responses at different RPM then this is an option, but to get RPM based changes (ie for return to idle behaviour) you need to go a bit further The table switching logic for ethrottle doesnt allow overlay like some tables do, so you cant do it that way. I think you would need to use an intermediate table like many of the OEM's do for torque request - essentially making TPS target a 3d table. I *think* you could use the seadoo ibr torwue request mode so you get an intermediate table that you can reference later. You would put your normal AP vs RPM in the torque request table, and pretty much arbitrary values from 0-100 or something sensible as the "output" value. You then change your ethrottle 1 table so X axis is ANV10, and the Y axis to "torque request", and you make it more/less aggressive on the different anv10 columns. The torque request thing has some limits around when it's supposed to do anything, so i'm not sure if its quite this "simple" to just turn it on and steal the values out of it.

You can also test the wiring by loading it up with any random head light bulb you have floating around. a single low beam is 55w, so at 12V draws 4.5 amp. This is sufficient to load up a circuit as much as an ECU would but not enough to blow fuses etc. Just chop off the last few inches of headlight wiring from a junkyard car then you can plug in the wires anywhere you want to test. This gives you some rough feedback immediately just based on whether the bulb looks "normal" brightness. You can then test the easily exposed bits of wire with a volt meter.

So at 27 seconds and at 38 seconds you are only at about 40% throttle. Does that line up? You mention replacing the TPS, and we do see some points of 100% TPS in your log, but its worth asking. If you were foot on the floor, the ECU isnt seeing that. What does the config on your boost controller look like? Does it have any logs? The only point in the log where there *might* be signs of power loss before you get off the gas pedal is at about 31.5 seconds. I say might, because boost drops off at the same data point where the TPS drops from 100% to 99%. Normally this would just be noise and suggest boost dropped before the throttle, but you go right to 0% tps after this, and its only recording every 0.1 ish of a second so we cant see which came first very definitively.

Do you mean this bit here just after you get back on the accelerator? Can you describe a bit more what you were doing when this problem happened so we have something to correlate with the log file. Eg was it just before or just after you changed gear? was it immediately after you pressed the gas pedal or was it a a few seconds later? Did you have your foot hard to the floor when this problem happened or only 1/3 ish.

yeah they make those out of the softest metal known to man for some reason. I've squared off a few of them and had to gently squish them back into a round-ish shape.

There are 6x timing marks on the crank, -5, 0, +5, +10, +15 & +20. Pick one, probably +10 or +15 is easiest. paint it white so its easier to see if that helps. Once you have chosen a mark and its easy to see, you can start on the ECU settings. Lets say you chose +15 degree mark. Set "lock timing to" to 15 degrees as well. Make sure your timing light is set to "0 advance" if it has an adjustment. crank the engine and change the number in the "offset" box, then press enter after each change. The box will turn blue. Keep changing this offset number until the +15 mark is right under the pin that sticks out. Remember to press enter after each change. Dont worry about "delay" yet, you cant change that until the engine is running. Press the OK button. Once you get the rest of your tune set up and can have the engine idle + rev up ok, go back into the calibration screen again with it idling, check that the mark is still under the pin. Rev the engine up to around 4-5k, if the mark moves a little bit, change delay by 10 or 20ms and try again until it doesnt move when revved.

A couple big things 1) your map sensor calibration seems wrong. It should be approx equal to BAP when the engine is not running (so around 100). yours reads 7kpa absolute which is definitely wrong. 2) Your fuel table looks like it was originally for a traditional mode setup. Try copying the entire of fuel table1 from the monsoon base map instead. 3) As Henryy said, with Ethanol you need much more crank enrichment (even with a sensible fuel table). Probably in the 200-300% range at 10-20*C

If you want them to report as "things" like oil/fuel pressure rather than just voltage, you can adjust the can receive frame to map them straight to that system instead on CAN ANV#. You'll still need to calibrate them however. I think the only way to do it is via the multipliers in the CAN receive config.

can you please post your pclr (config file) and a log of you trying to start it? First up, check that your injection mode is not still set to "disabled". How do you know they are not firing? Have you connected a test light in place of an injector, or are you just basing it no "no start + spark plugs are dry"? Its quite possible your fuel config just needs bigger numbers

try disabling VVT. Its currently configured under both trigger2 VVT & VVT cam control, and its throwing cam timing errors. From the rest of the config i'm assuming this engine doesnt have VVT anyway.

You need to be very methodical about how you check for this. 1) Circuits have to be loaded - this can be either by having the engine running, or by connecting a test load to the circuit being tested. Engine running is simpler to set up but may be harder to get test leads to exposed wires. Create a spreadsheet and then with the help of your wiring digram and/or tracing some wires yourself, write down a list (similar to that in your last post) of EVERY fuse, relay, connector, etc along the circuit in question. Now with the engine running (or you test load connected) probe the circuit before & after each "thing" and write down the observed voltage. At some point you will see it drop, and then you will know it has to be the relay/wire/etc between the "good" voltage and the low voltage. eg from your post above, i'd like to know the voltage as seen at both sides of the 15A EFI fuse, then the entry into the main relay, then the output, then the +b & +b1 pins on the ECU (ie the end of the wire coming out of the main relay). Another note, the 7.5a AM2 fuse only feeds the ignition key, which in turn feeds the control side of the main & fuel relays. It does not feed the load side of those relays. That load side feed comes from the 40A am2 fuse. So following the logic above, i'd test either side of the 40A fuse, then then 15A EFI fuse, and both sides of the ignition main relay, etc. Best place to check voltage with things running is probably the bottom of the fuse box as you can get to the underside of the relay connectors.

its probably a narrow band sensor from factory .You *could* connect it, but all it will tell you is if you are running above or below lambda 1.0 at any given time. This is basically useless for tuning and was only there for emissions in the factory setup.

This isnt an engine I know that well, but as far as noise & signal strength, the signal looks ok. I did manage to find a known working cam + crank scope however, and the crank is the same, but cam is inverted, and the 2x extra tooth pairs look to be swapped around. The falling edges on the cam trigger look to be similar to the known good, but the link help file says this mode expects to see the tooth timing from the rising edge. Try it on falling edge for trigger 2 but i'm not sure that will really help. If that wont start at all, or it doesnt help, put it back to rising edge, and run a VVT cam test with it set to 6x pulses, then press f12 to view the tested cam angles, and post the screenshot of that up please

Apparently those pipes are a common failure point. you can replace the whole pipe if you are dropping the fuel tank anyway. Its just 2x separate straight copper pipes with a few tabs along the way to bolt up. If its just the end thats cracked then you could braise it or re-cut it like you plan. You could probably get a replacement pipe for $100 or so but its the couple hours labour to swap it thats put people off.

Yep all vvt cams look to be working correctly now. Keep an eye on how quickly it responds and if it start oscillating on fast target changes. It showing a bit of target overshoot but you cant really tell at low RPM whether its a real problem or just not enough oil pressure for accurate control due to the low rpms. Might be oil too thick/thin or it may need slightly more or less aggressive VVT PID settings, might also be nothing. Its looking pretty reasonable though. I notice at one point your idle drops a bit low because your TP is about 0.2% low. It looks like your TP control is pretty reasonable most of the time in that log so you are probably better off fixing idle another way, and not tweaking throttle PID much more. Turn on idle ignition control and set it up something like this. Should keep idle a bit more stable.

You can connect both 5v and 12v sensors (and VR sensors etc that have varying voltage output) all to the same sensor ground. The reason to chose 1 type of ground over another is not input voltage, but more: 1) how stable does the signal need to be for the engine to run well (crank trigger = really important, any of the temp sensors = not a big issue if the signal bounces around a few percent). And as part of this, will a ground offset cause an incorrect reading that still looks legit. (eg voltage offset on any analog sensor) 2) How much load is expected to go through the ground circuit. eg do not use a sensor ground as the ground side for a vtec solenoid or anything like that. As long as everything on the sensor grounds is low *current* then adding a flex fuel sensor to sensor ground wouldnt hurt, and generally anything that is an ECU *input* you would lean towards putting on the sensor ground circuits. But if you do see issues that seem like sensor noise once you add it, you can probably move the flex sensor to use a direct ground and not see too many issues. These dont report an analog output anyway so should work just fine with slightly noisy voltage/ground.

the factory MAF can be left disconnected. It's not needed for the link. As stated you will need a MAP sensor connected - this can be the built in one in the monsoon, just run a hose from the manifold to the port on the monsoon.

that link goes to just another copy of your pclr file. can you please fix it up to point at the log file?

can you please run a trigger scope with it idling and post this too? Need to see what the cam signal looks like. Next step after that is to run a cam angle VVT test

Is it on the factory CAS? these have been known to have timing scatter at higher RPM which can cause misfires. Can you post a config file and the log. The thing you are mainly looking for is RPM ROC going +/- repeatedly and a kind of fuzzy looking rpm line. Your screenshot isnt that clear but it looks like you might have some rpm jitter present. Also the dwell time can be a bit of a giveaway if its jumping around as well

could you just fudge the calibration on the crankcase "MAP" sensor to make it read in "MGP"? change the axis so instead of 1.5v or whatever it is being 100kpa, this is 0kpa, and set 0.5v to be -100kpa. It wont help your conversion to imperial as the maths is different for inHg vs +psi but in kpa that would give you a straight forward readout.

Rather than trying to feel when the screwdriver stops moving, you can also set it deliberately 5-10* past tdc, mark this point on the crank with something temporary, put the screwdriver in until it hits the piston, then hold it really tightly in that spot. Rotate the engine around 90% of a rotation until it just touches your screwdriver then mark that point as well. TDC will be exactly half way between these 2 points on your crank, so just a simple measurement. This process avoids trying to guess where true TDC is during the 3-4* where its pretty much not moving at all. Its better if you can bolt something into the spark plug hole and then *by hand* bump then engine into it in reverse then forward to create the 2 marks, but holding a screwdriver really steady doesnt require a "special tool" like a plate welded to a long bolt, and gets you really close.