cj

How did you test this? backprobe with a multimeter? most DBW pedals are wanting to see 5v input, not 12. Pedal wiring should normally be 2x feeds from the 5v ref output, 2x feeds from sensor ground, and 2x feeds into ANVolt inputs unless you have a rather weird pedal. The aux9/10 supply error has nothing to do with your pedal however. It means the ECU is not seeing 12-14v on the red wire top center of plug B. This pin needs to be supplied with 12v, which is then used to drive the TPS motors. Have you got 12v supplied to this pin? Regarding your trigger scope, were you cranking the engine when you captured this? Also what voltage are you using for the power feed to the sensor? The trigger scope shows a constant ~7.5v but no teeth etc.

What the chance of getting a junkyard ABS pump? Like I mentioned before, if you want a direct feed from the ABS sensors to the ECU you will have to cut off some teeth, and this will break your ABS functionality. You could also buy/build a frequency divider to drop the input frequency from a few thousand Hz to a few hundred Hz. You can buy these for roughly $100 from a few places online or build your own for about $10 of parts at jaycar or whatever electronics supplier is local to you. Once you get the frequency down to <500Hz @ 200-250kph (whatever max speed is), you can feed it straight to a DI. You would first need to confirm that the output is a square wave - check the manual or scope it yourself.

This sounds like the way to do it. Logically you cut the wire from abs -> factory ECU, and put the link in the middle of that cut wire. (DI as input, aux out as output). You define a DI as LR wheel speed, and set the calibration number. Adjust this number until the speed shown in link matches the gps on your phone. Grab an aux out and configure it as "speedo out" - I think this has to be one of aux 1-4 but will depend on the expected frequencies. Not all aux outputs can PWM signals at a high enough frequency. Once you set this, another option will pop up under the aux outputs "folder" named Speedo Out. Click on this and you can set the source DI you are "copying" as well as multiplier + offset values to adjust the frequency. Note that these multiplier values dont take any notice of the calibration for the DI - its just frequency in -> frequnecy out (with multiplier)

Which car are you working on? A lot of the earlier japanese stuff ran gearbox -> speedo then speedo out -> all other systems that want a VSS signal. you'll need the factory wiring diagram to figure out where the signal goes once it leaves the gearbox (assuming its not canbus - at which point it comes from ABS). If its old enough to be a mechanical speedo drive its another story. In theory you want to change the wiring so the link is the first point of contact with the speed signal, do any modification, then have another output on the link to output the new speed signal and have this continue on through the rest of the factory "path" so other computers/gauges all get the modified speed signal

So to clarify this - do you have working ABS? If the ABS is gone, you can grind off teeth on the tone rings until you get down to a more reasonable number - say 5 or 6 - just need to confirm the number so you can figure out an even spacing between teeth. If you have ABS working (assuming its the 2006 pump + controller), you can run wires to the CANBUS pins and just have a very short canbus only from ECU to ABS.

On a thunder yes, on the lower ones not directly as the frequency is too high for a DI. The 48 or 50 teeth they use gives you a max speed reading of about 10-20kph before you break 500Hz. You can read it from the canbus directly though if you are tied into this - on a mid 2000's legacy I have some details on here this was CANID 0x512 bytes 2 & 3 - read as a 2byte number then divide by 16 to get vehicle average wheel speed in kph. You can get individual wheel speeds from 0x513 as well.

you can take the ignition table and most of the triggering etc from the supra map - ignition isnt affected by the fuel table config (except for AFR's impact on knock), but take the fuel table from any of the VE/modelled based maps. you'll notice that the majority of the VE fuel tables are relatively similar, because within reason most (stock) modern engines are in the same ballpark when it comes to fuel efficiency ranges. That should at least get it to run enough to start tuning it. If you have already tuned a bunch of the WOT cells you could copy those into your "new" fuel table and then interpolate from the tuned cells down to the "copied from another map" cells so you are even more in the ballpark for starting figures.

I think you frequnecy -> speed calibration is a bit wrong. you're not maxing out the frequency input and I dont see anything that looks like it goes "flat" at any point. If you know your actual trap speed you can pretty simply calculate what that 260 value should be to get your speedo to match trap speed. The log shows a max of 190kph

Couple of things you can change to get it a lot better, then grab another log if its still not right 1) Disable VVT around your idle RPM by either upping the lockout RPM on your VVT to say 2k or, change the VVT target table so it has 0 target at 2k below 30% or add in another column at ~1800 and set this to 0 below 30%tps. This is because you VVT is advancing by 10deg or so as soon as you get above idle rpm and throwing things off 2) as suggested by RobW, change idle control to open loop with the engine dead cold, then let it warm up and as it hits the center of each cell in the idle base position table. In general, your table values are about 45 and closed loop is running the idle valve at about 55 to keep the idle rpm you want. If your open loop table values were much closer to what your engine actually wants it will be depending less on closed loop control to keep stable. 3) its going very lean (1.2 lambda) at a couple points around idle. setting the fuel table value for 1500 @ -60 MGP and the same row @ 1000 rpm about 5-10 points higher might help as well. Once you have it approximately stable, try to smooth out the ignition table around idle rpm, and once its about right, turn on idle ignition control which will help keep idle stable - you just shouldnt use it to fix idle that is otherwise all over the show.

sounds like its not going to be a fuel problem then. A few things you could do to rule it out but i'm leaning more towards triggering issues from what you've said so far.

filters, sizes of the pipe between the pump and the tank if they are external, everything that will be under suction instead of pressure when fuel is pumping. Do you have a surge tank and/or feed pump for this?

Those pumps are kind of overkill and might even be a problem if you just have a single wire feeding both of them. 8gauge wire should be rated for ~73amps draw though so unless there are some weak points/small wires/fuses/etc further up the wiring this should be the problem. You could get a friend to hold a multimeter across the pump terminals and verify that you still see ~14v when it starts to fail just to rule it out. [edit] what do your fuel pickups look like? if you are sucking a large amount of gas out of the tank at once and through small pickups you might be causing cavitation/air bubbles in the fuel. there are 2x back of the envelope calculations you can you to estimate fuel pump size 1) 4x 1000cc (per sec) injectors x 60 seconds = 240LPM max flow through your injectors @ rated pressure @ 100% injector duty cycle. your injectors and pump(s) will have a different flow rating at different pressures, typically the rated flow is at 43.5psi (3bar) and drops a bit at higher flows, but some pumps actually increase their flow at high pressures, and most injectors flow more so you really need the spec sheet to confirm this. 2) horsepower / 2 = LPM requirement. Assuming you have 400 BHP, you need ~200LPM (on petrol) for example the walbrough 465 pump spec states: 465 LPH @ 40PSI & 13.5 Volts, 360LPH @ 120PSI & 13.5V. The trigger scope part is that these engines can get "noisy" at higher rpm which can throw off the RPM triggering which then causes all kinds of thing to go wrong around spark and fuel numbers. The trigger scope feature in the ecu is like an oscilliscope that shows you the trigger voltages and pattern the ECU is seeing. With the engine running, click ecu controls -> trigger scope, and then save the log file it creates. This only take a couple seconds. Please grab one log at idle, and another with the engine at 5500rpm

I dont see any limits/fuel cuts/etc kicking in. Your logs dont show the lambda values or fuel pressure though so its hard to get the full picture. Without this I can really only guess Do you have a screenshot of the lambda graph from the dyno from either of these pulls? specifically I want to know if gradually crept up once you were on full boost, if it suddenly just jumped at some point, etc. Is your fuel regulator boost reference working correctly? max calculated fuel flow in those logs is around 2050cc/sec - so around 120LPM which even after losses in the lines etc, you should be able to hit with any decent aftermarket pump (assuming your lines are big enough and the pump has big enough wiring to supply current) Were you feeling misfires as it got above 5k on the 3rd gear pull? your RPM jumps around a little bit which could be misfire or it could be trigger issues. If all else fails, grab a trigger scope at 5400-ish rpm.

ah, you didnt say it had a misfire. that combined with the sudden start of this problem means i'd check the plugs for damage, strange wear, etc. The last log your fuel number looks pretty good for near idle @ ~0.95 so I doubt you have rich/lean misfire happening now so check plugs, coils, HT leads, etc - whatever ignition system you have on the engine.

Doesnt look fuel pump related. Its actually flowing less fuel at that ~1400rpm 1% TPS range than you are at idle. If you run that same check but at say 20% tps (so 3-4k rpm) does it show the same behaviour? Looks to me like your fuel map isnt granular enough at idle map values (30-35kpa) and so its bouncing around a bit as it goes too high/rich -> too low/lean and cycles back and forth between the 2 states. Your idle seems ok but its at ~0.87 lambda whereas that 1% tps rpm is between 1 and 1.15 which is quite lean. try increasing the fuel table values in this region by a few points. you may need to add in a line at 30kpa as well and let it interpolate as a starting point. The other thing that might be at play here is if your injector dead times are wrong. Are the numbers you have in there from a reliable source and/or tested? You also have no short pulse adder numbers which can help this kind of behaviour too as at ~1 ms you might be on the edge of non-linear injector flow. you've also got launch control permanently enabled when the car is under 15kph (VA1 config). This isnt directly impacting it but its stopping closed loop lambda kicking in and probably some other things. If none of the above help, disable ignition idle control and swap idle, lambda correction etc all back to open loop/disabled so you can rule out these systems "over-reacting" which can cause cyclic rpm issues like this.

you cant really be 180 out on the crank. part of the trigger1 calibration is to essentially to find the angle from TDC to the missing tooth on the crank. depending on which sensor you use the number you end up with for trigger1 calibration will be 180 different, but both will be finding you the same TDC point on the engine. Sensor polarity you might still run into and as you say, need to swap wiring over. The reason I say use the exhaust cam for trigger2 is that it wont move with VVT advance (assuming its a fixed cam) which makes setup a little easier. If you only have intake cam sensors, run one to trigger2 and the other to DI1-4. Make sure to configure the trigger2 VVT offset so that the ECU can "count backwards" to still work out accurate cam position even with VVT partially advanced on the Cam it is reading position off of. There is a test process in the setup guide for this. What you are finding is the resting position of the first trigger edge in degrees past TDC.

disclaimer: I havent done one of these, I just did some digging because it sounded interesting. The factory wiring runs 2x ecu's, 1 for each bank, so unless you are planning to run 2x link's in the same config, just pick 1 of the crank sensors and ignore the other. I've got no idea what the trigger patterns are and there isnt any predefined in the link configs so hopefully its something simple like 36-1 or maybe the same as a 1j/2j. I'm guessing these run VVTI only on the intake side, at which point pick either exhaust cam as your trigger 2, and as adam says, run your intake cams to anywhere DI1-4. you want to wire in both VVTI capable cams individually so that you can log/control each bank as its quite common for 1x bank to respond a little differently than the other and be a couple degrees apart in VVT advance. Depending on how far you are planning to go with the mods, and the year of your engine, you will also need to address the fact the factory intake manifolds are completely independent for bank 1 & 2 - ie 2x separate throttle plates, map sensors, etc. If you use a thunder instead of a storm you can run 2x ethrottles independently, but you'll need to have a crossover pipe installed somewhere to balance the MAP readings as you really dont want 1x bank running more air than the other. converting to cable throttles or using an older model would allow it to work on the storm but you'd have to pick 1x of the TPS sensors to read and just ignore the other. you'll need to run both injectors and spark in one of the batch type modes as you simply dont have 12x individual outputs for spark/fuel. The dual ecu's thing means you will probably also run into 2x coolant sensors, and a few other things, again just pick either 1 unless its something that the ecu directly depends on for spark angle/injection amount calculations. you may also find 4x knock sensors, but you'll only be able to wire at most 2 of them, so take 1x per bank. because of the wasted spark config you'll have to run, you wont get per cylinder knock detection anyway so you arent losing much by dropping the second knock sensor per bank.

this is true by default and is probably right. You can change it through from Quiet Throttle to "run throttle" in ethrottle setup screen. Then it will move any time the key is on

Yep open loop ethrottle is what you want. zero out the a/c, p/s, park etc tables for a start then. if you leave values in them, they will get applied based on what the ECU thinks those systems are at. There is always a default value even if its not hooked up, and if the default value means "add in that table", then you can get unexpected things happening. The short version is that the % in the base idle table will get added to the % taken from the AP target table. so 2.5% + ~4% @ 10deg. This gives you a much more reasonable starting TPS angle. once you have it running, let it sit at idle and warm up, and move the base idle values up/down until you get desired idle at that temperature.

That TPS singal looks better but you still need to run a re-calibration as the first 10-20% of the pedal travel isnt being registered, but that isn't why its stopping at 1500rpm. spark, fuel, afr all look normal. Does it backfire/stutter/etc at 1500 or does it just sound like you're only holding your foot down 20%? It still looks like a mechnical blockage somewhere. If you disconnect the intake piping at the manifold can you rev it higher? This will rule out blocked filter etc. Can you spin the turbo by hand? if it were seized you could be blocking up both the intake and exhaust side which would do something like this. Are your cams intalled properly? either cam being off by a couple teeth (or adjusted too far if they can adjusted) could show up like this. The only ecu-ish thing I can see that might be relevant is that you still have your MAF hooked up, but its calibration is all wrong and the ECU thinks its a fuel pressure sensor! you dont have it configured to use this pressure in the fuelling calculations, so it shouldnt be relevant but its a bit strange. It also only ever shows "pressure" on overrun when you jump off the throttle. This was the same as your last log too. This could be your recirc valve opening and dumping boost, but you shouldnt have any boost there to vent as it never breaks 100kpa at open throttle. I'm not exactly sure what this means the fault is but if it were me i'd look into this a bit and see where it leads.

couple of things it might be, in no particular order: Your throttle position doesnt look calibrated properly - TP main is between 2% and 5% different from TP Sub. This means there is a chance the throttle is actually at 0% and you wouldnt know. You could probably do with a bit more crank encrichment. I typically have between 150 & 200 in the 10*C column for 98 octane - a whole lot more on E85. you've currently got about 2/3 of this so its in the ballpark but a little more might make it start easier. This probably isnt your biggest problem though if its not even close to starting. Your idle control is set to solenoid/stepper, rather than ethrottle. This means your idle correction values are not applying. This relates to my point above about TP control, and so insetad of the ECU commanding 6-7% its commanding just 2.5% which is probably not enough to fire up easily. Regarding the trigger errors, yes there are a lot of them so its worth scoping to rule out, but you only see 3x new ones show up in the duration of that log and they are all right at the start of cranking. a handful of errors at this time can be normal on some engines. Are you sure of the angle of that timing mark? if its 0 instead or 10/15 like you told the ECU when you timed it, or there are multiple marks and you're on the wrong one, then your timing could be completely wrong.

Where in your log did you try to rev it higher? I can only see a couple points that might be relevant but I'm not really seeing a problem as such. between 0:30 and 0:34 the rpm is just under 1500rpm but the map & TPS value look more like high idle than you actually trying to rev it. At 1:11, 1:21, and a few other places it looks like you back off the throttle right as things get to 1500rpm. Are you holding the throttle right down at these points? You have what look like sensible fuel and spark numbers, no limiters etc. You arent running one of the clutched throttle bodies off the altezza's or supra's are you that might be playing up? It really looks like something is restricting air flow through the throttle. If you pull the intake hose and twist the throttle manually (and watch the blade), can you get it over 1500rpm?

Can you post a log of it starting + idling for a bit + then trying to rev it up?

The ECU isnt altering anything. In fact the fuel pressure reading isn't being used by the ECU at all, its just there for logging purposes at present. The fuel config is set to MAP Referenced rather than FP sensor so the ecu assumes a diff fuel pressure of in this case 43.5psi at all times, and it looks like he has a 1:1 regulator that is working ok to make this actually happen. @BigBoiMR2 now that you've got fuel pressure reporting correctly, it would be a good idea to change the fuel config to FP sensor so that any fuel pressure drops are automatically compensated for by the ECU. Depending on how close your current diff fuel pressure really is to the configured 43.5psi, you may need to make some corrections in your fuel table afterwards

Grounding any sensor to the chassis instead of the ECU sensor grounds is not ideal. It means the sensor will have potentially have a different level of what "ground" means, and an therefore give incorrect reading (ie it might be say 10 or 20% high or low). Its usually pretty consistent however with how wrong it is. What you describe is just a wiring fault. One of either - wires coming apart, wires shorting to each other, or wires touching the chassis. The fact you can reproduce it by wiggling wires in a specific spot means you even know where the fault is. you need to re-join/re-solder/fix the connections in that area and also make sure there are no exposed wires that can bump into each other or ground to the chassis.