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From what youve said about that log being approx 70mph, try 224 as your calibration number for DI1. should put you in the ballpark. Then grab a gps/phone and a straight road or dyno and a friend, hold the speed steady on the GPS, then have your friend bump the number up/down until it matches.

Given you've got a few good examples try comparing a startup log from a working engine to this one. Compare the time taken from when the voltage drop/start signal kicks in, then when you start seeing rpm, then how long it shows cranking RPM before firing up. Compared to the good engine, if its a delay in the RPM showing at all, focus on trigger settings (signal level, correct offsets, trigger1 vs 2 offset) etc. Also try swapping it to wasted spark mode and see if this fires up quicker - this doesnt require cam sync so can be an interesting test. If the time from crank signal to read RPM is roughly the same as a good engine, then its likely your triggers are fine, and you can focus on fuelling amounts, spark timing, injection timing etc.

I dont know which product exactly you have but arent these the things you hold down the button for ~5 seconds to open it, and a different button to close it? This may not be just a simple case of "turn on a relay and leave it". You potentially have to have a timer (which the ecu can do) so it only triggers the output for ~5 seconds so it doesnt burn out the motor driving it "more open" the entire time. If you havent done it already, it would pay to stick a multimeter on whichever side of the controller box this thing presumably has where you plan to splice into the wires and confirm that a) its electrically just an on/off switch, and not a "swap the voltage over to drive the motor shut" arrangement b) figure out whether it drives the motor permanently, just for a second, or for a set amount of time. (and the same for closing it) The last one of these I saw was basically just a DC motor attached to a throttle butterfly and you had to provide reverse current to close it, which is do-able using 2x outlets and some careful arrangements of relays but it requires a bit of planning

If you're tacho is doing the startup sweep thing a second time when you crank, it suggests your ECU is being power cycled. Possibly because the current drawn by the starter motor is so high that the ECU resets due to low voltage. Starter current drawn is highest at zero RPM and drops slightly once the engine is turning which is why it then powers back up and starts eventually. Looking at a log might show some very low but still usable voltage and some disconnects, but by the very nature of this problem, the ECU cant log the voltage if the ECU is powered down. Depending on your multimeter and how long it holds down the voltage you may not be able to catch it with this either but it would be worth trying. Where have you run your power and ground wires to/from? If its to the engine block, how big is the ground from engine -> chassis/battery. If your starter motor "uses up" the available ground current in this wire when its cranking, the ECU will die. To check this put your meter on volts, put one end on the battery negative and the other on the engine block and have a friend crank it. If you see much voltage [differential], then your engine ground needs improving. Other possiblity which I have seen before is a worn ignition key switch where the IGN1 signal drops for a split second when you turn the key to crank pos. You can rule this out by bypassing the key when cranking. Get a *thick* wire, turn the key to IGN, then jumper from battery in to the crank wire at the back of the key barrel or the big plug under the dash where the key wiring connects. This makes the engine crank without physically moving the key. You could put a switch in the middle of this wire if you are concerned about it arcing.

sounds like the sensor pinouts are not what you think they are. try sticking 3x AA batteries together in series to get a 4.5v signal, and this should be close enough to 5v to drive them. get out your multimeter and measure from the negative terminal of the batteries to the signal wire. Even out of the car you should still see 0.5v or 1v on the signal wire at atmospheric pressure. There are only a handful of possiblities. remember to test + & - both ways around.

If you hit F12 you can see it in the analog tab. This is the instantaneous value only. To log it, go into the settings for you analog input and change the type to Voltage 0-5. This will make it log raw voltage values. Then go to the logging screen and add in AN volt6 or whatever input it is. Some input (like TPS) you can see raw voltage and calibrated value side by side by adding in the ANVolt# number to a log instead of TPS% or whatever the sensor is. This doesnt seem to work for pressure sensors though.

Configure any aux output as type "GP output" and then set the conditions you want to meet. You can set some logic so you have to have 2 or 3 thing happen at once. The conditions can be pretty much any pressure/speed/etc measured by the ECU, or it can use the status of any other switch (eg if you have a launch switch, you can use this as the condition for the aux out for the light). WIth the oil pressure, you might be better off setting up a GP RPM limit table so the ECU automatically cuts throttle/rpm limits when oil pressure drops. It will be quicker to react that a driver will. You can still use a light output as well, or you could change the condition of your light output to be "GP limit 1/2" so the light comes on when the safety limiter kicks in

that spec sheet says 3100H's are 1-5V not 0.5-4.5, but you should still see a voltage from them as your wiring sounds correct. In a log, what voltages do you see on the AN pins you wired them to?

Yep thats the one

I've tested something similar myself and from memory got about 1300 or 1400Hz reading on a DI before it just started reading 0. I'm assuming the 500Hz recommendation allows for a bit of error (ie doesnt blow up if you hit 501Hz), or maybe was the real limit on some older ECU models and the new ones are a bit more refined and can read up to a bit over 1000Hz. I wouldn't want to rely on it being accurate at frequencies above 500Hz. If you can move the sensor away from the teeth a bit, and the teeth are thick enough you may be able to drill into just 1 (or 5) of them and press in a metal dowel pin that sits a few mm higher, then set the sensor at the right distance so it only reads the teeth with dowel pins in them. I've got no idea what thickness metal etc your're working with to know if this is a good idea though.

Yeah its a bit maths-ey. I do like the GIF they have of the effects of each parameter change on the output graph. That always helps me visualise what i'm doing. that p=4.2 log looks pretty good to me. Remember to compare the Ethrottle target % against TPS rather than APS -> TPS. the P value being 4.2 is a bit lower than most of the reccomended settings for various ethrottle's in the help file so you may be able to make it a bit more sensitive by increasing P by 1 or 2 and then tweaking the other 2 if needed but it certainly looks usable as is. "Ethrottle target" is what the ECU is trying to hit, not the AP%, and it seems to follow this ok. The APS -> ethrottle target correlation you are seeing includes our AP->TP table and the offsets that are added through idle base table and similar idle controls. Ethrottle target is after the ECU puts all of this together and decides where it wants the TPS to be. One thing you can do to check is to temporarily change your AP->TP table so 0%AP = 20% TP and 100% AP = 80% TP. That way you can easily see if you are overshooting the target. a tiny bit of overshoot is ok, and at 0/100% you wont see it, but it will matter when you go 0%->10% as it may jump up to say 20% for a bit then drop back down. Also try moving the throttle slowly and check it follows quickly and doesnt lag, and also run some tests to only part throttle.

That makes sense. The problem wont be "1.5 is too much", the problem will be the PID settings you have bascially mean "anywhere within 1% is near enough". I bet depending on how slowly you approach 0% target you can have it either hold 1-2% high or shoot 1-2% lower than target. It only take about 30 min to tune it to pretty much dead on if you are methodical about it and have a reasonable understanding of what each value does. See my post above or the wikipedia article for PID tuning. [edit] one of either I or D (cant remember right now) is essentially "how long do I tolerate errors", and so this is what you tweak to make it respond to "small errors held for a long time", in a shorter amount of time.

if you have 50 teeth and calculate a calbration number of ~2400, but ~240 is more in the ballpark, cut off 9 out of every 10 teeth and you will drop your frequency to 1/10th what it is now. You can "test" this but logging via GPS etc what speed you are actually doing when the frequency on the DI hits 500Hz or some other easily divisible number. Lets say at 500Hz you are doing 30kph, but your car is expected to max out at ~250kph. again dividing by 10 will give you a max of 300kph at the recommended 500Hz, so again you would cut off 9 teeth and leave every 10th. The key this is the teeth MUST be evenly spaced 50 doesnt divide into too many things evenly so you probably only have a choice of 1/5 or 1/10. If you had 48 teeth you would have a lot more options. If you are handy with electronics you can build a frequency divider with about $5 of parts from jaycar. 1x for each wheel. The important bit is a 4024 chip - this will let you take a frequency and output a lower frequency anywhere from 1/2 to I think 1/128th

adjusting for boost pressure seems like a fix for the problem you initially reported, but looking at that last log with the engine off, I think you may have tuned the ethrottle a little too aggressively as far as "how much force do I apply to match big changes" and a little too soft on "if i'm close to target, how hard do I try to get that last little bit". You're over shooting the target TPS a bit, and then staying a couple % off target for at least the half a second visible in the log. If this is a race only bike, you'll just have to be aware of this and if it tries to stall when returning to idle, give it a bit of gas (its also not great for throttle motor life span to drive it open past 100% like it looks like its trying to do). If its street driven you'll want to tune it a bit better as I suspect any small (<5% change in throttle will fell a bit lazy) In this screenshot (about 0.5 seconds from the red line where TPS hits 0% to where the yellow line is) you can see the target dropped to 1% when you got off the throttle, but the TPS % overshot this and went all the way to 0%. It then stays at 0% for at least that half second before you give it more gas. If this was trying to return to idle at 1-2% TPS, it would stall. The second thing i've highlighted is on the TPS main and sub voltages, that the voltage spikes past the 100% level for about 0.25 of a second when you go full throttle then drops back a bit. The ECU sees this whole thing at 100% TPS, so it means you are exceeding the "100%" you saw on your TPS calibration for a bit, but its not likely a calibration error. Bascially your throttle blade/motor is buidling up some inertia and hitting the stops on the TPS while the motor is still applying force. This will shorten the life of the throttle/motor/sensor, but I cant say by how much as its entirely model specific. The proper fix would be to tune the PID numbers a little more carefully with the engine off until you iron out both these problems, but the quick and dirty fix is just set you AP->TP table to max out at 95-98% instead of 100, and either live with the inconsistent return to idle or add 1-2% to the entire "0" row of the AP-TP table and let it idle a bit higher.

as you say, the ECU reporting 190kpa and the limit cutting in is all by design. You either have a calibration problem or a spec sheet problem with that pulley/supercharger. 10psi boost should be about 170kpa MAP so you are only 20kpa different - if the crank pulley is larger than their reference or you have some restriction in the intake manifold you might be getting 20kpa more than spec. Remember your supercharger actually pushes volume, not pressure. Volume -> pressure is just a measure of how much the air pushes back. Smaller valves, cams, intake runners, more rpm, or quite a few other things can change "14 litres per RPM" or whatever the supercharger spec is into a different boost psi on different engines. once its been running for a bit, if you kill the engine does the MAP reading match the BAP reading?

decrease D by 5-10 or increase I by 0.02 or so. More details here. You want to set up some logging and change the AP targets from 0-100 down to 20-80 while tuning it so you can see if you are overshooting badly or if you are getting oscilations.

Your throttle faults will be caused because of target->tps actual mismatch errors. Looking in your log we can see that every time you roll off the throttle, its really slow to bring the TPS actual back down. Either your PID numbers for ethrottle control need to be a bit more aggressive, or you need to check that return springs etc are ok and that the throttle blade is not running into some sludge etc in the last few %. Once this counter hits 100 (or 255?) the ECU will kill the ethrottle relay and the rest of the codes all pop up. The fuel pressure drop seems to be directly related to fuel flow so could be any of 1) lines too small 2) pump too small 3) voltage drop at the pump so its not flowing what it should

I think what @Richard Hill is pointing out is that where you go from off boost to on boost, your differential pressure drops (first circled bit in red). To me its seems like there is a 1 way valve somewhere in the boost reference to the regulator because once it hits positive boost, it holds differentials pressure correctly. However when it changes from boost to vacuum though, that manifold pressure change is not reflected in the fuel pressure. It looks like vacuum doesnt make it to the regulator but boost does. Because Fuel system type is set to FP sensor the ECU will compensate for this and it shouldnt have a real impact, but its a bit different. Normally the fuel regulator should allow more fuel pressure as the manifold pressure goes up - so it wants to maintain say 300kpa relative pressure. at 100kpa MAP (0kpa MGP) it allows 300kpa fuel pressure. Once you have 100kpa MGP (1 bar boost), your fuel pressure is actually 400kpa, but the relative pressure is still 300 (400 actual - 100 boost). This is because if you didnt do this and your fuel pressure was static 300kpa when your boost hit 301kpa, boost pressure would actually push air back down your fuel lines when the injector opened! Those closer you get to this point, the less fuel would flow too. Fuel pump voltage is easy to check as everyone else says, but it could be a couple other things too if that looks normal. Reason being that he doesnt back off the gas when it drops fuel, and 400rpm later it has recovered itself. If you look at the ECU estimate fuel consumption values, its ~2025cc when pressure starts to drop, is showing ~2060cc with the pressure dropped, but its doing fine holding 2080-2090cc consumption once it recovers. This means its not just a "more fuel during peak torque" thing - its supplying more fuel after that pressure dip that during it. Its also running 95%+ injector duty cycle so its quite possible that one or more of the injectors (maybe cyl 3?) sticks open for a bit or otherwise plays up due to the duty cycle, and drops pressure. I'd expect to see it go rich rather than lean though if that happened. I'm also reminded of a problem where the pressure reference hose from the manifold to the fuel regulator has resonance issues which can cause the regulator to think you have way less boost than you really do and supply the wrong amount of fuel. If you drop the boost level and fuel flow by say 20% across the board, do you still see a similar problem at the same RPM? This will isolate if its a resonance/rpm related problem or a fuel flow issue. You might need bigger injectors too but thats a decent cost so rule out the cheap stuff first.

It just means you cant mix and match. If you put on 1x device running at 500kbit, all other things on that same canbus also have to be running at 500kbit. If you look at the CAN setup screen in the link ecu's you have to set a data rate for that connection - this needs to match all the devices on the bus. If you have a model with 2x canbus's you can run them at different data rate (as most OEM's do for radios etc vs driveline system), but its kind of a waste to use up both CAN bus interfaces just to support different lambda sensors.

so about 65-70 kpa. with bigger cams its a believable number. If you're suspicious or have unstable idle then a smoke/leak test wouldnt hurt, but its in the ballpark assuming a fair bit of cam overlap.

10 kpa MAP or -10 MGP (ie 90kpa)? 10kpa would be very low, typically you would only see this amount of vacuum on overrun and i'd be suspicious of your MAP calibtraion if you see this at idle. 90kpa (ie -10 MGP) is very high for a factory intake manifold and cams. You might see this with ITB's and big cams, but factory cams and manifold should give you 25-40 MAP (ie -60 to about -75 MGP) and 90kpa would suggest an intake leak or again, MAP calibration issues.

At full throttle no, but at part throttle you can get some reverberations, EGR effects depending on VVT timing and cam overlap, and the IAT can read higher than it should because of this. It can also get damaged by fuel mixture floating around in the throttle body.

These have 2 piece pulleys rights? If you take the crank pulley off the engine, check the outside ring where the belt grooves and the timing marks are is still properly attached to the center section. If the rubber bit that holds them together is damaged it will slip and your timing marks will be way off. if its only a little damaged it can still have enough friction to hold the belt at idle, but at higher rpm it can slip, and you see exactly what you describe. Its a bit suspicious anyway that these are typically 0 offset as its a custom trigger mode but yours wants -15...

On most 90's and 00's honda's the 12v ignition 1 feed for the injectors or coils is black/yellow or in some cases yellow/black. One colour is direct from the main relay and the other is from a coil relay or something. Either will work. If you look at your injectors (or COP's if you have them), it will be the colour wire that is the same on all of them (not the black one on the COP's, or I think brown/yellow was the other commonly used ground colour), and you can probably tap into this wire in the engine wiring loom at the end of the fuel rail where it wraps around the side of the engine and the feed to all injectors join together Obviously test it with a multimeter before wiring into it. <1 ohm from your splice point to the hot pin on an injector/coil plug is probably a good test, as well as the obvious 12v from this wire to bare metal on the engine with key on.

The recommended location of the IAT sensor is after the turbo + intercooler, just before the throttle plate. This way the ECU has the best idea about the actual temp of the air entering the engine. If you install additional sensors you can view them in log files etc but they will be for your interest only and wont participate in the actual fuelling calculations.