cj

you probably just need to change the master fuel value from 9 up to 11 or 12 as a starting point, then tune the fuel table from there.

Yeah about 12 should be approximately correct. Might need to be a few points up or down on that depending on how close the base + current numbers match the real values of the injectors, but your calculations are right.

Did you run through the can lambda setup here https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf I can see the channel set up, but cant see the bit about assigning it to lambda1 because the ECU is not connected. your lambda1 values in the log are all 0 so it looks like something is missing. On second look at it, I can see the lambda1 error state bouncing around a bit. Have you double checked the wiring to the lambda sensor? If it is talking to the ECU, its not sending anything useful. While this is clearly a bit of a problem, its not likely to affect 1 cylinder more than the others. That injDC value turning red is normal. It just shows that its a changed value vs what it was. remember to save the changed value to your pc by pressing f2 (or file>save / save as) AND saving it to the ECU by pressing f4 (aka store)

I cant see anything specific to cylinder 1 in that log. Is it only this 1 cylinder that is causing dirty spark plugs? Are you sure your injectors are all delivering the same quantity of fuel? 1 could be partially blocked or leaking and if the other cylinder are all a bit rich/lean the opposite way, the total engine lambda will look correct. As far as general things you might want to look at from that log: you dont have any lambda readings, that makes it really hard to guess where you are rich/lean. You have a speed input on DI3 of Left Front wheel, but in speed sources you have selected Left Rear wheel, so as far as the ECU is concerned you are at 0kph all the time which means anything speed dependent isnt going to work correctly - idle speed lockouts, traction control, gear detection, probably a few others. You have your second fuel pump set up to only turn on at 70+% inj DC, and it looks like you only hit 70% at about 7500rpm under full throttle - basically that second pump almost never gets used. Not sure if this is on purpose or not. - see at 51:22 for the only time this seems to happen. Looking at your fuel pressure logs, its starting to drop off by 5-6 kpa above 50% inj DC so maybe drop the cutover to 50% your VVT target tracking is pretty slow, and seems happy to stop moving when you are within 5-6% of target. This is going to make it tricky to get consistent AFR between runs as your VE will be slightly different. What sort of engine are you actually running? I'm not really a nissan guy but I thought variable VVT was only on the R34 RB25's but your title says its an R33 GTR.

Have you had a good read through the aux output options table? These are out of date on occasion, but it says ethrottle 1 has to be on aux9+10 and ethrottle 2 on aux 17+18 As for the analog input thing, this section here implies that the circuitry behind an13-16 is slightly different than the lower analog inputs. No idea how its different but it doesnt look like just a bug. Cant you move something else over to one of these inputs and use a lower number input for tps?

The K20z had a similar issue in that chassis because of the location of the engine mount. My fix was to align the factory marks by hand with the engine off, and then draw a new mark on both the pulley and engine block with a scribe and some white marker paint at an 8 oclock-ish location so I could see it easily through the wheel well with the right hand wheel removed.

under ignotion main, change spark edge from falling to rising. Typically only honda coils and a couple other weird ones run falling edge coil trigger. The majority of coils work with rising edge. This should fix the coil temp and the failing to fire.

Oh one more thing, are you running E85 in this engine? you've defined the stoich ratio for your fuel as 9.8 but it should be 14.7 for petrol. This wont be hurting anything yet, but might once you start using closed loop systems.

Your ignition table is in MGP, and doesnt go into negative. This means your ignition timing at anything non-boosted is effective a single row lookup. I notice it runs pretty minimal vacuum anyway, but you should still have this drop down to at least -30kpa as it seems your engine would use this at idle. Your fuel table numbers are very small, and your master fuel number is quite large - this doesnt "break" anything as such but it makes it very hard to get any resolution in your fuel table. eg you can only move from 12.0 to 12.1 and this might be quite a jump in injected fuel quantity. Try changing master fuel trim to 0, master fuel to 5, and then select the entire fuel table and type *4 <enter>. this drop your master fuel value to ~1/4 of what it is now, and multiples the table values by 4. The injected quantity will be the same but its easier to work with the fuel table now. It looks like the reason it stalls is because it runs too lean. healthy idle is probably 0.9 lambda and 1.1 is probably stall. Post start enrichment is keeping you going to start with, and when it runs out, your engine goes lean and stalls. Try bumping up your master fuel table a little bit (maybe from 5 to 6 once you do the step above) until it can keep running once post start enrich goes to 0. Then once you know what "stable" idle looks like, you can reverse engineer the post start enrichment numbers to stop the idle creeping up at the beginning but this temporary high idle is not your biggest problem right now.

The intercooler fan is controlled by its own controller - the other smaller box next to the ECU. You'll see there is a temp sensor on the underside of the rear engine cover that also wires to this cooling ecu. The taillight relay and stop light switch are just for primitive electrical load detection. Properly tuned closed loop idle or ignition idle control means they arent needed. There are a couple posts in this thread around the EHPS control on SW20 pumps. short version is it will work pretty well with no ECU inputs at all, but you can add them for additional control if you want. the vss signal that adds/removes assistance is comes from the dash (as long as you still have a factory dash)

Ah ok, the last one I had to fight with the fuel system wiring on was a legacy but they are usually pretty similar. Here are the relevant pages from the service manual relating to fuel gauge First thing i'd point out is that with you only finding 2 wires on the module you're looking at the sub module. so working backwards through that second diagram, BlackYellow is ground. As long as you can confirm ground on this wire where it meets the primary level sender this is not complicated. RedYellow is the low fuel level light, I believe this goes to ground when the level is low, but it doesnt participate in the level gauge anyway so not relevant to this issue. This leaves BrownWhite as the only wire leaving the sender pair. Blue is simply a join between the 2 and simply needs to be checked for continuity. Thinking about this, the way to verify whether the 5v pullup is coming from the ECU or from that "custom CPU" in the gauge cluster, is to: 1) verify the wiring to ground and between the 2 fuel senders. with the ECU and gauge disconnected you should be able to measure a resistance between the BrW wire where it would plug into and ground, and this resistance should change if you push the level sensors up and down. This confirms your wiring through the level sensors. 2) Disconnect all the plugs from the gauge cluster Verify that the relevant pins on the plugs show 12v and ground to confirm that the dash is "powered up" 3) disconnect the ECU from that circuit but connect the dash. Now with the key off you should see exaclty the same behaviour as above. With the key on, if you see the same 0V and varying resistance to Ground, then the ECU needs to provide the 5v pullup. If you see 0-5V ish as per the ECU function for pin B136-27 above, then the gauge is providing 5v pullup internally and your problem is either in the dash or on the main power/ground feeds into the dash. I also noted while checking these over that the fuel level senders and the speed sensor share some of the same wiring on the power/ground feeds, so maybe your problem is as simple as a fuse or ground wire not connected? quick check with a multimeter with key on will tell you if you see 12v bewteen the 2 non-signal pins of the speed sensor.

What model chassis are you using here? Some of the newer ones had a fuel pump controller and/or had the pump and the primary sender as one unit.

The fuel senders on most subaru's take 5v from the ECU, but the output from the sender to the gauge. Think of the senders like a pull-down to ground based on variable resistance. There are also 2 fuel sender modules connected in series and if the second one is disconnected, you will have no ground connection. join your 5v regulated output onto the BrB (BrW in your case) wire between the gauge and the sender and it should work. The speed sensor probably does the same thing and expects a 5v pullup somewhere in the circuit. Try wiring this into a DI on the ECU and setting pullup to ON. will fix your speedo + give you vehicle speed into the ECU. In the below diagram, C goes to ground.

Youve got some interesting electrical issues going on there. Way more than just the temp sensors. You battery voltage comes and goes. between 1:10 and 1:14 it drops to 0 half a dozen times, usually right when your temp sensors go into their minimum value of -40C. there is also a quite worrying spike up to 40.9V battery voltage when it comes back, and when this happens your sensor all add about 50degC to their readings so that voltage spike is clearly reaching the sensors. I'm guessing it arced a bit when reconnecting to voltage. I suspect your temp sensor variances are directly related to loose wiring, probably near something major given how many of the systems it hits an once - eg the ground on the engine block or the battery, or somewhere between your battery and the main fuse box. Its also possible you have some exposed wiring somewhere un-fused (like the wiring to the starter motor) and its contacting something and causing an intermittent short. Your lambda sensor drops in an out, and sometimes when its working its giving you insane values eg at 1:16 you apparently were at full throttle when your lambda went from 0.8's to a value of 8.something! (not afr, lambda...). On second look some of the dropouts are caused by voltage drops and it going through the startup process again, but the spikes up to very lean numbers while at full throttle dont make sense. At 1:07 it looks like your injectors cut out or something. You're still at full throttle but it goes crazy lean and your MAP + revs start to drop. are while not a wiring issue, you fuel table values are maxing out at 150 for large parts of the full throttle run. If this is on modelled, you need to check your injector flow rate config, that the configured fuel pressure matches the pressure set on the regulator, and that the correct engine capacity is configured. If its traditional, you probably need to double your master fuel number, and halve all the values in the fuel table (select the whole table and type " / 2 <enter>" Also, you very lumpy idle is probably related to your fuel table numbers near idle being so different. it moves from ~50 to ~90 between 1000 and 1500rpm and only moving about 20kpa.

if you leave it overnight, does it show a value that seems within a couple deg of ambient? 70C isnt completely out of the ballpark if you have lots of coolant to heat up or a cold day or your fans are on etc, or if you've got something funny going on with your thermostat or the placement of the sensor.

its off because "sensible" values for IAT fuel enrichment are already used as part of the modelled calculation. You *can* turn it on if you have a reason to do something "non-sensible", such as completely opposite of normal like add fuel at high IAT value at specific throttle opening, and just set the majority of the table to 0 except the points you want to change. The modelled fuel behaviour is still going on in the background. Think of it like an additional overlay table which you dont normally need.

Its just so you have some resolution to play with. There is no "magic" to having 50's in the middle. In traditional mode the master fuel value is how long the injectors open for at 100kpa if the fuel value is 100. Any value in the 100kpa line is basically what percentage of the master value is going to be used. master fuel trim is bascially just there to let to put decimal points into the master fuel number. ie you cant enter 10.5ms, but you can enter 10ms, and then 5% fuel trim. So 10ms and 10% fuel trim is the same as just entering 11ms and 0% fuel trim. If you're tuning from scratch I dont see a reason you'd use it. More likely it would be if you put in new injectors that were a few % off your old ones, or new engine parts that changed your VE just a fraction but equally across the whole fuel table

Have you got some pics of the side of the pistons as well? It doesnt look like the sides are scratched up which is where you'd normally expect to see damage, just the front/back which is weird. Is the damage to them all on the fronts, or is it equal front and back. Is it all the pistons or just one? Have you got the crank out too? How do the thrust bearings look - aka does it look like the whole crank has walked forward/back?

The pumps come with a controller. I cant remember if its inbuilt or in a separate module right next to the pump but there is certainly a controller, it takes in voltage, ground, vss, and a signal the toyota manuals call PSCT which as far as I can figure stands for Power Steer Cutout. I've got an SW20 mr2 wired up to a fury and have it so the main power feed to the steering is via the factory relay (which may count as a "controller" anyway in that its not direct battery fed/not fed when key is off), plus a factory VSS input from the dash, plus I have the PSCT wire hooked up to the ECU and configured as below This means it doesnt provide assist when the engine is off, or above 20kph (the idea is to have it behave as a manual rack at anything above carpark speeds). Works a treat, and you can demo to the certifier that it must be "controlled" by switching that aux on/off in front of him and having the assist cut out. Only minor gremlin is that because of the way link ECU's seem to bring the outputs online, it very briefly ground's that output and applies assist at key on (for a fraction of a second) and you can hear the pump power up then down again. If this was deal breaker it would be simple enough to wire the aux out to a relay instead of straight to the controller

Can you post a pclr file as well? Are the injectors and fuel system stock? First suggestion would be have you tried giving it some throttle pedal while starting? Your MAP value drops by 5 or 6 kpa during cranking which is normal, but when you stop cranking, it's only very slowly recovering. Holding vacuum like this suggests that maybe your idle valve is blocked off or not working, and you're getting no air in at all. If these are stock injectors, you're running pretty low pulse width for cold start. Do you have any kind of crank enrichment turned on? your battery is a bit low but given it can read steady RPM its more a "good idea" to replace it than a certain fix. That dwell thing is a bit weird. without a pclr file I cant really guess at why its doing that and neither 0.2ms or 40ms seem like numbers I would expect to see in most cases.

If you watch that frame by frame the value is jumping between about 48 and mid 50's. These seem like reasonable numbers but depending on your fuel system design and regulator you may disagree. You're looking at absolute pressure, so if you have the vacuum line hooked up to the regulator you should except to see a few psi fluctuation due to pressure variances through the intake. If you look at the logging screen with the graphs instead of the instant values it will be a lot easier to see trends, history and general "how much it moves about"

That grounding isnt good, you've effectively joined the sensor ground to the battery negative, which will make ground offset problems like you quite possibly have worse. Try grounding it directly to the engine block at the same point as your main ECU grounds, and disconnect it from the sensor ground. The LC2 manual says it can draw up to 3A, which I'm sure is more than you can safely put through the sensor ground wiring so dont even try (cant remember the actual safe number right now). if you want to try something much easier but less likely to actually fix the problem, some engines create an EGR effect using VVT advance at cruise-ish MAP values. any EGR effect will cause lambda changes even with constant air+fuel input. You are seeing 2-3 degrees of VVT advance that has a very loose correlation with the LH VVT solenoid position Try setting this to 0 in the 10% TPS row at 1000-2000rpm just to rule it out as its much easier to test that re-wiring your lambda sensor, but you'll probably have to do that anyway.

your pclr file shows 260 MAP limit, but your log file shows that it was using a 245 limit when you captured that log. Did you remember to store the config to the ECU after you made the changes (press F4 or ECU controls>store to ECU)? If you dont do this, and just save the map to your laptop, the ECU itself will go back to the old config on poweroff/on.

Can you post that log here so we can take a look? The injector wouldnt cut out from a voltage drop. it *might* run marginally leaner while the voltage was lower. If the dead times were set even close to correct you wouldnt see much change at 6000rpm. eg if your injector open time ms is at 20ms, and you have 1ms dead time @ 14v, and you drop to 12v where you have should have 2ms dead time , but you still only have 1ms because of incorrect settings, your fuelling would drop by around 5%. This should be noticeable in the logs.

it would make sense for it to run lean if it dropped to ~12v and your injector dead times were badly off for that voltage, and that might cause knock, but you would see the whole log go lean, and at high RPM dead times dont make that much difference. Knock control probably would have seen it too. If the log shows good AFR, and it also shows the timing to be sensible values, then i'd be looking at a mechanical failure in the engine. Oil and coolant level ok? head gasket maybe?