cj

in my experience changing a trigger from rising to falling while the engine is running almost always causes it to stall. Get the trigger scope like Adam says first, but also try running the trigger 1 calibration with the trigger set to rising and see if you get an offset a few degrees different, then try starting it again.

You've got some very high numbers in the ethrottle target + idle targets. assuming you want an idle at 1500rpm, you've got a base throttle target of 7%, + (when cold - 20ECT) another 9.8% from base idle table, so at least 16% throttle opening at "idle". i'd imagine it tries to idle more at 3k or so? Check in a log what the TPS main value is. If its over 6-8% its probably too high and you need to bring this down as a starting point. Simple test to see if that leak is your problem - either turn off idle control and change the ethrottle target to 0 while its idling, or pull the ethrottle plug and push the throttle closed by hand - if it stays running, you have a big leak.

Can you please post your pclr file and a trigger scope log showing trigger 1 and 2?

It sound like your problem is that the AC/heater control module signal isnt being received/understood by the ECU. (this is the AC request, and should be wired to one of the digital inputs). Its also possible you have some incorrect settings in the ECU so that an incoming request isnt triggering clutch output. Your first check should be fire up the runtime values screen (f12) with the laptop connected, and see if you see the AC request DI register as "ON" when you press the AC button on the control unit. If you can make the clutch engage by swapping the polarity of your AC clutch output from low>high then the wiring from the ECU to the physical AC clutch on the engine is ok. You should set the polarity to whatever makes it OFF under normal circumstances (polarity low = on if your wiring is the same as the diagram i'm looking at). You will either need to check your wiring diagram or with a multimeter, but the one I'm looking at says the AC amp grounds pin 15 (connects to pin 46 on the factory ECU) to make an AC request, and that the test to check you AC functionality is to ground this pin at the ECU and see if AC starts working. This means you should have the relevant DI set up as AC request, on level = low, and probably pullup=on. This should be enough to get the AC request to be triggered in the F12 screen and then we can look at how the ECU is controlling the AC clutch.

If you log DI5 do you see any input? I've seen it before where a DI was set to VSS, but the setting under chassis>speed sources was still set to "none" and so even though the DI log would show a kph value, it wasnt being recognized as "vehicle speed" by the internal processes in the ECU. [edit] noticed you had already posted a log and it shows no frequency input on any DI, so this is not your issue right now.

Looks ok to me. idle is about 30kpa, and under throttle it jumps up to about 180kpa (ie 80kpa/11.6psi of boost). It looks like you're struggling to hold boost at this level though as it tapers off over a few seconds, but your MAP and MGP numbers look accurate. I'd guess that what you are seeing is that the metric>imperial conversion for MAP is working correctly, but its not "normal" to see psi in absolute terms. 30kpa is roughly 4psi, but normally you'd expect to see this as -10.5psi MGP or -22inches of mercury. Remember that 0 psi on a boost gauge (MGP) is 14.7psi absolute pressure (MAP)

Is the wiring harness made from scratch, or the factory one with minor tweaks. Looks like you might have a 12v pullup wired in outside of the ECU somewhere. Thats the only thing I can think of that would bring the signal up to 14.6v.

This car has push button start right? Assuming its start button, the C32 wire shouldn't be configured as start signal, it should be neutral/park (as per the starter control function which allows park/neutral as a condition of starting). The wiring logic for this input looks to be "clutch+power is in a ready to start state" rather than "car is now cranking", which is what "start" means to the link ECU. You could probably configure this as nothing and just set the starter control to have park/neutral control disabled, because the clutch switch itself is a safety which prevents the starter relay from receiving power when not pressed. as far as where your 3v/7v is coming from... Id guess its a small amount of current coming through the starter solenoid from the c20/aux8 pin. Try pulling the plug on the starter relay and see if it goes away. Assuming you have no other wiring changes in the car, this will confirm whether its current coming via the starter relay. [edit] just re-read your post and noticed it says "turn the key to on", so somewhere else in the wiring diagram there must be a wire that comes from the key "start" position into the ECU. Set this as your start position, and either set the C32 pin to p/n as above or disabled. As far as the ECU is concerned though you need to treat it a bit like a push button start as the ECU is apparently controlling the starter rather than the key position doing it directly. [edit #2]... I missed the (ST) at the top of those 2 wires.... those are both only fed 12v when the key is in the start position, so you had it right all along that C32 is the START position. I still think the voltage you are seeing is an artefact of pin C20 sitting high when "off". Try taking this wire out of the ECU and grounding it to the chassis instead. This will mean the ECU itself cant prevent cranking, but means you dont have a weird loop going on between an aux out and an input.

Can you grab a trigger scope and a couple minutes of logging when idling normally, and another scope + normal log when trying to start it after it fails? Are you powering the key/ecu right off before attempting to restart it or just flicking between key on and start? Ie are you clearing the trigger error counts if any exist? This will tell us if we are looking for a mechanical issue that breaks triggering until it "cools down", or an accumulation of errors that is fixed by power cycle.

you cant connect to the ecu until its powered up by the car. If you want to do it ahead of time, and you havent completed your wiring harness, you can connect just the 12v and gnd wires to a car battery to power it up so the laptop will connect

Have you changed where your tacho wiring connects to? Factory it runs from the ignitor (ie it doesnt touch the ecu) and you need to run it to an aux out on the ECU now you have COP.

oil switching solenoid LH and RH and the AVLS activation solenoids (ie the VTEC-ish cam switching). These go to any aux output (cant remember if they are high or low side drive, you'll have to check the wiring diagram) You can wire them both to the same output if you are short on aux out's. I cant see a reason you would ever switch 1 bank and not the other Variable valve lift diagnosis oil pressure switch LH and RH are the "am I activated" sensors for the LH and RH AVLS solenoids. They are actually just oil pressure sensors positioned in the right place to detect then the cam switching has lifted. These go to any 2x DI's and are technically optional but generally a good idea to wire up (and then use a virtual aux that needs 1 or both of these on as your trigger for any fuel/ign table 2 switchover). Intake oil flow control solenoid LH and RH are your AVCS (cam phasing) controls. You need to wire these 2 individually to any of AUX1-4 (might be 1-6?) - the ones listed in the manual as being able to support VVT PWM control. Cam pos sensor LH goes to trigger2. Cam pos sensor RH goes to DI 1 or 2 (and set this to VVT cam position) There is a subaru AVCS EZ30 wiring diagram in the help file with a lot of this. EGR solenoid is optional (i'd block it off mechnically and leave it disconnected), but if you want it, connect it to any aux out and set the function to EGR Sorry I was thinking purge solenoid. I dont think you can automatically control this. If you want it, set it up as a GP output on any aux output and set condtions to only enable it at cruise TPS and MAP. You can get an equivalent effect with VVT timing anyway, so i'd really reccoment leaving it disabled PS switch goes to any DI, its just a switch that flips when it experiences high pressure and tell the ECU it needs a bit more power. It feeds the "power steer step" in idle control. Again pretty much optional if you are short of inputs. CPC solenoid I dont remember from when I did this. I didnt have EGR either though because it was a jap import. Are you sure this isnt something for the auto box? if you look at the wiring diagrams (can be found on jdmfsm.info) where does this wire go to on the factory ecu?

@Jenno007 you're dead right that your idle control timing is a big part of your problem. The other part is understanding all the numbers that add up to what the ecu uses for its "ethrottle target". First up, idle timing: the idle timing doesnt really "take away" 24 degrees of timing. What it does is throw out your ign1 table, and use its own idle table when ign idle control is active. If you look at ignition>ignition idle table, you will see the values that it will use for ign angle when it is active. The top axis is "current RPM relative to target RPM". So looking at this, when you are on idle target, (0 error column), you will have 8 deg of ignition. When you are 500 or more RPM above idle target, you will run at 4deg ignition - which is probably not enough to keep it running hence the near stalling condition. Now from a dynamic viewpoint, when you RPM is dropping but its above your 1500RPM ign idle lockout, you run at your ign1 tabel values (about 29deg), and beacuse of some quirks in your ethrottle config which i'll get to later, about 5% open throttle (hence the slow rate of rpm drop). Now at some point you drop to 1499RPM and ign idle kicks in, and your ign angle changes from 29 deg from ign1 table to "you're 299RPM over the 1200 RPM target, I need to drag that RPM down by making ign advance only 4deg". your ign control values for "above target" are really low, so it basially takes away all power from your engine until you get down to 1200rpm, then it tries to "catch" it when you drop under 1200RPM by ramping up your ign angle to the values on the right on the ign idle target. Making the right hand "catch" values higher has helped but is a bit like an ambulance at the bottom of the cliff. To "fix" this properly you need to adjust your ign table and ign idle values so that there is a much more gradual transition from the main ign1 table values, to those in your ign idle table. Before we do this though, id suggest you decide what angle you want it to idle at. most engines OEM are between 10 and 20 deg. 15 is probably a good number if you have no idea. Note that things are going to get worse before they get better because with 15 deg at idle, your 5-6% ethrottle effective target is too high and you will idle at 1700 or something. First up, grab you ign1 table and add in a 1250 or 1300 rpm column. interpolate it horizontally if it doesnt do it for you. then set the values in the 1250 column for any MAP at 60 or below to the same as those in the 1000 column. This 1000 column is actually roughly set up correctly for a "normal" idle, but your 1200 target is too high to hit it. Now disable ign idle control, set your throttle idle control to open loop, and see how you go. it should now idle quite a bit higher. Change the idle base position throttle target value up or down until you get the idle value you want. Now set the 0 column of your ignition idle table to whatever value you are currently idling at - probably 15-16. (this should match your ign1 table value). Note that there is now effectively no "jump" when ign idle comes on or off. Now set the over and under column of ign idle table so it tapers up and down by probably 2 or 3 deg for each column. You may need to adjust the aggressiveness of the change rate in this table later but 2 deg per column is a good starting point. You can now enable ign idle control again but you shouldnt notice any change when you do. Now with ethrottle idle still on open loop, sort out your idle base position table so that its the same shape your have now - roughly flat above 70-80deg ECT and 0.2 or 0.3 gain per 10 deg below that. Start from whatever position you used above to get the idle right, its probably 70-80deg if it was warm, and shape the table from here. Now see how it handles throttle blips now that the idle ign table isnt trying to stall it all the time. Your ethrottle target is the next thing to understand before you turn it back to closed loop or make too many changes. The commanded TPS value ("ethrottle 1 target" in logs) is made up of: the number in the ethrottle 1 taraget table "ethrottle 1 base target" PLUS the idle base position number "ethrottle 1 ISC offset" PLUS the calculated ethrottle closed loop idle adjustment "ethrottle 1 ISC CL trim" So in your case, pretty much all of these values are 2% (give or take), but because there are 3 of them added together, your target TPS value is 6-7% all the time (not the 2.5-3% you think you have from the APS target table. co-incidentally, this is a very good reason not to use APS% as your fuel main target - the ECU is pretty much never actually giving you the TPS% target you asked for anyway. Some of these numbers stop being added in once you get above the various idle thresholds, some of them dont (or are seemingly on timers so they drop off a few seconds after you break idle threshold) With a 15deg idle, you probably want your TPS to be between 3-4% at idle but you'll figure this out for your engine through trial and error, and for general driveability, you want it to get to 0 when you let off the throttle above say 3k. Once you have it idling nicely from the above process, open up a log and see what actual TPS/ethrottle target you are running at. write this down somewhere. From here on you can pretty much take any path you like as far as which of the ethrottle adjustments you make which sizes, as long as they add up to this 3-4% figure you need. (eg it makes no difference if you are 0% APS table with 3.5% base idle target, or the other way around). Just bear in mind that the APS% table can only be accurate to 0.5% but the idle base target can be accurate to 0.1% plus it can change with ECT, so you will need values in here for the colder ECT temps even if you have it at 0 for "normal". To tune the base idle table, let the car cool down compeltely, start it up, then start a log with idle target and current RPM visible. dont touch the throttle or anything else in the car, but just let it warm up, and as the ect gets to each 10 deg point exactly, bump ONLY that value in the idle base table up or down a coupel points at a time until you hit your target idle for that ECT. You need to be quite quick as you dont want it interpolating too much from the next cells if it gets a deg or 2 higher. Once you have that cell tuned, wait another 2 min and just let the idle go high/low until you get ECT up to the next 10 deg marker. Once you've run through all of this, post another log and pclr file please. still with ethrottle idle in open loop mode.

click on the logging tab in pclink. Now when you go to logging > record you can see the log in real time. right click the graphs and select properties, then add/remove/move paramters until you get what you want on the graph. Heaps of things are recorded in the background, you're just choosing what to display at the time. You can click the config or tuning tabs to get back to the default screen at any time without impacting the log capture. It will carry on in the background while you do other things. Just a note that no where in the log file will it show that you changed settings in the middle of the log, the car behaviour will just suddenly be different, so name the log something sensible when/if you save it so that there is some hint that the settings changed in the middle. Not helpful when you're looking for something a week later and your log has unexplained changes in the middle of it.

I think you've got a combination of slightly laggy ethrottle settings and an idle setup that is very low ign angle with a big throttle opening. You can have idle with low throttle opening (1-2%) and lots (20 ish or just over) of timing, or lots of throttle (5-6%) and really low timing (5-8), or any combination in between, and still get idle at the same rpm. You currently have a pretty wide throttle opening and hardly any timing (8 deg at normal idle). At this low of an ignition angle you need a lot of throttle angle change to get any additional HP to pull out of a stall, but with a throttle opening this wide you should be able to have a lot of impact using ignition idle control. To fix the stalling, try editing your ignition idle table so that instead of it reading 7,13,14,15,15 on the high side, it reads 7,13,17,19,21. this will make it add timing more aggressively to increase RPM when its below idle target. regarding the throttle hang side of things, it looks like your ethrottel PID settings arent that sensitive to low amounts of error - eg if its only 1% out from target it takes 2-3 seconds to correct. It would be nice to make this more aggressive and fix this "properly", but you can work around it a bit just by zeroing out the 0% AP row of your ethrottle table for everythign above 1400RPM.

Have a read of this. on a quad AVCS head you will have a position sensor and a solenoid on each cam, plus your crank position sensor. Whether those cam sensors are 3 wire hall or 2 wire VR may depend on the exact engine but they must be there. If you cant find them at all on the front of the engine, check at the rear of the cams. I know the EZ30/36's ran their AVCS control at the back of the engine rather than the front. Maybe the newer EJ20's did too?

look up the wikipedia article for PID tuning. There is a gif on the page about half way down that changes to show the effect of increasing P, I and D values. Very roughly, P is how quickly it reacts (how quickly it applies motor current), I is the aggressiveness (how much current it applies), and D is like a smoothing filter. None of these descriptions is technically correct but it can be a lot easier to understand to this way than fully understanding the maths behind it. I had noticed that your TPS response was a bit slow in general compared to your AP - about 200-250ms, which has got to be noticeable when driving. Here's the process i've used to tweak ethrottle PID's in the past (in case the 1uz settings dont give you the feel you want, or you just want to understand "why" a bit better): without the engine running, set "run mode when stalled" to "run throttle" set your ethrottle target table so AP0% = TPS20%, then interpolate up to AP100% = TPS80%. ie your TPS will only span between 20% and 80% open with full accel pedal travel. probably store the ECU config at this point. It gives you a safe point to return to if you have to cut power a abort testing later on. go to the logging window in pclink, start a log, and make APS main and TPS main the only 2 parameters visible (or at least the only 2 in one of the groups) press the accel pedal slowly a few times then quickly a few times, then quickly but only to 1/2 or 1/4 pedal travel and notice how much delay you see between the AP line and the TP line. now go to the ethrottle PID numbers and bump up P by 1 and repeat the tests. What you are looking for is minimal delay between the AP line moving and the TP line starting to follow it. At this stage dont worry about overshoot too much, just bump it up towards 8 or 9 until you stop seeing much improvement. dont go past 9 though. Make some notes as you go about what numbers you are testing. If you get the throttle to the point its just oscillating and wont stop after a second or 2, turn the ignition off, start again at slightly less aggressive numbers. Now you basically play D off against I. D you increase or decrease by 1 or 2 points at a time. I by 0.02 or so. If the TP response looks "lazy" - ie its heading towards the AP line but starts to taper off before catching up to it (so TP gets to within 1-2% of AP and the takes a second to get the last bit), lower D until that tapering off point is really close to the AP line. If you see the TP line overshoot the AP line and oscilate a few times before settling down or if it doesnt stop oscillating at all, increase D until you only have no overshoot or maybe a single small overshoot then it stablises at the AP line. To evaluate I, looks at whether the angle of the TP line matches that of the AP line when you press the pedal. If TP isnt a sharp enough angle, ie its heading in the right direction but not steeply enough, increase I (by a tiny bit). If TP likes to overshoot the target/AP by more than a couple percentage points, then lower I a bit. Note: this is why you tweaked the throttle target table to between 20 and 80 - you cant normally see overshoot below 0 or above 100. You'll likely see overshoot worst when making large quick changes, and you'll see lazy response worse when making small slow changes. When you have numbers you are happy with, put the throttle target table back to its normal values and save everything. Regarding the APS and TPS calibration failures, you can do this manually by hooking up all 4x sensors but leaving your existing voltage values in place, setting ethtrottle to "quiet mode" mode, and pull off your intake pipe so you can manually move the throttle blade. start a log, then press the pedal all the way down, hold it for a couple seconds, then release for a couple seconds. repeat 2 or 3 times. Now push the throttl blade all the way open and hold it, then all the way shut (you need to press it shut, they like to sit at 3-4% when left alone), repeat a couple times. Now add parameters to your log view for AN 1, 5, 6, 7 - these are the raw voltages from the APS and TPS sensors. have a look at the min and max values for each sensor and enter these manually into the APS and TPS calibration screens. Also note if either of the SUB sensors doesnt have a full range of travel (ie it flatlines above 70% or something), you need to enter the main% value when the sub% stops increasing if this happens too. You should now be able to switch to "run when stalled" throttle mode and run another log, but this time look at APS main, sub, TPS main, sub, and you should see all 4 tracking between 0 and 100% together (subject to a littel bit of latency in the TP numbers depending on how well your PID's are tuned).

if normal range is 85psi @3000 then you are right on the edge of it but still just on normal. Couple of places in your log you go through 3000rpm under throttle and oil pressure is mid-high 80's. Was that stutter+throttle cutout before or after you removed the effectively removed the tps sub connection? Some/most of the methods of failure that will trigger an ethrottle cutout will cause the ecu to log a fault code (which are not lost until manually cleared). I take it you did not see any codes when you connected to it afterwards? What troubleshooting did you do to conclude that the tps sub sensor was faulty - ie is it possible this was misdiagnosed and the same fault is still present and affecting the throttle control now?

Are you sure the APS wiring is being fed from 2 different outputs on the throttle pedal? both AN6 and AN7 (APS main and sub) track EXACTLY the same voltage for your entire log. It would be odd for a pedal to output the same voltage on main and sub sensors, and also odd for them to track 100% perfectly. You'd normally expect fractions of a volt differences between the sensors. Its not immediately urgent though as the numbers from it look normal enough (it goes from 0 to 100 and doesnt look to jump around randomly). Just a slight risk running it this way if the sensor fails to 100%. As a drift car that spends most of its time at high rpm, the good news is that whatever is in your fuel table, it ends up around 0.84 lambda at full throttle which is pretty much right where you want it on an n/a. maybe a little lower if its getting too hot at the end of a run but its a perfectly safe number to start with. Your throttle feel issues mostly seem to be at lower rpm so if its a pure track car you could just ignore them and be safe, even if its not optimal. It goes really rich on throttle tip in - 0.65 ish - but it doesnt stay there so unless you get stutter on acceleration this probably isnt worth trying to fix if you're not comfortable doing it. the VVT table is safe (typically OEM's put mechnical stops in the VVT mechanisms so you cant cause piston>valve interference even if the cams go uncontrolled), it just might feel jumpy around that point. Its low in the rev range though and for a drift car shouldnt really be noticed as I doubt you spend much time at 2000rpm. What is a little more concerning is what looks like PID overshoot causing VVT target oscilations in your log (the wavy line at the bottom between 0:58 and 1:00). the target here is 35 for that whole range but you can see it repeatedly goes over/under target and corrects itself. You can then see one bank (green line) settles quicker than the other, but neither should do this at all. On a factory valve train and pistons you arent likely to have interference from this but its not ideal for power and TBH ive never run a car doing this for long enough to know if it puts added strain on anything, gut feel is its not something you want to leave though. I'm not sure if the 3uz and 1uz VVT solenoids are the same but i'd guess they are slightly different and the default PID settings arent sufficient to control VVT accurately. There are ways to tweak these settings a bit using custom PID values but tuning these is risky and best bet would be see if the link guys can advise if any of their internal docs mention what VVT PID settings work on a 3uz. Maybe you can just select the VVT control algorithm for a similar engine if the link guys can figure out which pre-deifined setting will be best.

MAF can be useful for VVT tuning - especitally if you're going to street tune it. its one of the few ways you can measure engine efficiency when configuring your VVT targets without having a dyno where you can actually measure the few % points you might gain at each RPM. Even with a dyno its still probably quicker because you dont need to fully tune at each cam angle to measure the HP output - you only need to see the airiflow. You dont use MAF in any of the tuned tables so it doesnt actually matter if its properly cailibrated either, but if you log it and compare runs between different cam positions (say fixed at every 10deg) you can overlay the graphs in excel or something and work out a reasonably optimum cam angle that gives you most airflow (so best VE) at each rpm.

Just had a thought about the TPS vs APS fuel map. If you feel like playing with excel for a bit, you should be able to take the fuel map you have, and the original APS>target table, and with some calculations work out what the equivalent TPS should be for every cell, and use this to generate a new Fuel map that is TPS based. This will be a lot of excel tweaking but means you can keep your tune and move to TPS based fuel map. Regarding the oil pressure safety - there is a GP RPM limit table set using oil pressure so as long as the sensor is working, your tuner has set up a safety for low oil pressure. The bit that isnt right is that if the sensor itself fails, it will fail to a high oil pressure number rather than low. This is simple enough to fix by changing the error condition in the oil pressure input to 0kpa. (same for fuel). You have both TPS and APS set to single track. If you just have a flaky TPS, you can still run APS with both main+sub sensors so you still get some level of protection against noise/sensor issues. I guess the good bit here is that most of the issues i've pointed out are around near idle performance rather than full throttle, so you should actually be ok to drift it. (once you fix the oil pressure failure condition).

If you dont mind it being a bit harsh, you can "chain" virtual aux's with as many parameters as you want, and set this virtual aux as the trigger for any kind of engine protection you want (either RPM limit, or the trigger to swap to a low power ignition/ethrottle table, etc). Its a straight on/off though so if you want it to fell graceful you have to set up the "safe" table to have something like usable values up to 2-3k rpm or 10% throttle and "limit" values above this.

There are a few weird things in this map, and not all of them relate to throttle control. Firstly, as Adam pointed out your APS and TPS are both configured to what looks like the same sensor. The upper and lower limits for both main and sub values are the same, and the last running info that ECU saw before you saved the log showed that both the main and sub values were identical (for both APS and TPS). This isnt going to instantly break anything but it means you have no way of catching a failed APS or TPS, or a way to filter out odd inputs from electrical noise as you have nothing to compare to. You should really be running main and sub to separate ECU inputs. You could re-run the APS and TPS calibrations as a starting point and check you get the same high and low values. This is a likely candidate for you throttle faults. Regarding the values in the ethrottle target table, both tables should perform well enough but I guess its personal preference. What could be making it a bit odd is that your ethrottle idle control is set to kick in at anything under 5% throttle/1300rpm (give or take, temperature dependent). This may make it feel like you need to give it quite a bit of gas to get it to respond, especially when combined with the slow ramp up of throttle target postition. You could try dropping the AP% lockout to 2% or so and see if you like the feel of it. If it wants to stall when returning to idle after this then bump it up a bit. Your ignition idle control is also set to the same 5%AP and 1500rpm, and the ignition values from your main table at idle vs those in your ignition idle table are a long way apart (28ish main table vs 15 idle table), again this means there will be a lot less power just off idle and the suddenly have it come on when it drops out of idle control at 5% throttle. There is also a bug floating around in the current ECU code around idle control when you dont have a speed source selected (which you dont). You've also got VVT targets that are TPS based and are 0 below 10% TPS, then jump to 30 deg. Sharp transitions like this can be noticeable depending on the engine, and while having this TPS referenced instead of MAP will still work, its going to make the engine be constantly changing its target vvt angle which isnt instant so you may be "off target" quite a lot of the time. Your main fuel table is referenced to AP% and I'm not sure why. TP% is a reasonable config on some engines, but relatively rare on on cars with a normal throttle plenum. AP% as a fuel reference is asking for trouble given that your AP vs TP table isnt 1:1. It also means that normally harmless changes like you've been making to the AP vs TP target table actually affect your fuel numbers! If you change this to TPS it will still be roughly correct (and will be closer to correct at high load), but it will throw your whole tune off a bit. If you dont "fix" this though, I'm not sure you will be able to make much in the way of ethrottle changes though without screwing your tune anyway. You also have some strange engine protection config. Fuel pressure appears to be configured but is reporting 0kpa in the last runtime values window, and its not referenced in any safety RPM limits etc (maybe its not acutally connected?). Oil pressure is configured on an input and is used as part of the GP RPM limit to protect against oil pressure loss (good), but both sensors have the "error condition" value set to ~1000kpa though - ie if the sensor goes out of range (disconncted, fails, etc), the ecu behaves like its got really high fuel/oil pressure so it wont limit RPM from this.

change your fuel system type to FP sensor. Without that, Fuel pressure is not actually used for the various calculations. The way you had it, it tells the ECU to always assume it's 300kpa.

There are several things here that are a bit off and will be making it misbehave, but I think your oscilating idle is a simple case of not having injector short pulse adders entered, and that fact that setting the fuel numbers to 25.4 everywhere doesnt actually give you a fixed injector pulse width at different RPM and MAP as a few other numbers are multiplied into the fuel number to determine the injector pulse. If you want to use traditional fuel model, change this before you even start trying to tune it. If you want to leave it in modelled mode, set you injector data correctly and copy the fuel table from the monsoon base map as a starting point. Having a flat fuel table like this in modelled mode is never going to behave well as you arent actually telling it to always give the same amount of fuel, you're telling it that engine VE doesnt change with revs or MAP, which is not true You should also run the calibrations for the accel pedal and throttle plate - tps main and sub are nearly 1% apart at most times, and AP is sitting at 3%. If you're holding the pedal open a bit this might be right, but it should read 0% with your foot taken off it. Your idle control lockout is 3% AP, and with it seeing 3.2% AP all the time, idle control isnt doing anything here, the problem is elsewhere in the tune.