cj

deleted from your laptop or the ECU? If its your laptop, try Recuva - its free and pretty good at getting back recently deleted files. You will need to know where you had the file saved.

Your post start enrichment table is all -20's which would explain the ~5 seconds of bad fuelling as that's about how long that lasts. Someone else had exactly the same thing a couple days ago so I wonder if one of the base maps is like this, or maybe there's a bug in a firmware update somewhere. It should look more like this As for your cam problem... its still showing no signal present on RH inlet cam. You could run the same checks on another cam sensor wire that is working, make sure you see the same voltages etc, ideally one that also goes to a DI so you know the pullup on the ECU is the same on the signal wire. Specifically that 5v power wire... I thought these ran on 12v? Its less likely on a low current circuit like this, but you can have really bad wiring that will show voltage etc on a multimeter but will not pass useful current. To test for this you need to put some load through the circuit and check for voltage drop or use a 1/2 amp test light (make one out of a 5w dash bulb, some wire and some electrical tape if you dont have one). Unplug both the ecu connector & the sensor, connect the ground wire to battery, the "other" wire to 12v+, then put a test light across the pins at the other end of the circuit (doesnt matter if you put the voltage at the ecu end or the sensor end but id probably put it at the sensor end to ensure you have the right pins). Then move the 12v input and the test light to the second pin to be tested. Both should light up brightly (same as if you put the test light directly to battery). If its really dim, you have marginal wiring. The other thing you could try (assuming you dont have a scope) is de-pinning the trigger2 wire and DI2 signal wires at the ECU connector, swap them over, disable fuelling, then try running a trigger scope while cranking. This will let us see what if any signal is being received from the RH cam sensor by the ECU. Might give us a direction to look at. Remember to swap the wires back after doing this too...

Map Sensor - this is internal to the ECU. The config will show it connected to AN V3, but physically you need to run a tee-d off boost/vacuum line to the ECU. If you want to use an external MAP sensor, change the anv3 config to none, and wire in the signal line from the external MAP sensor to any free AN channel/reuse the AFM channel like you suggested. (and obviously set this channel to MAP sensor + set the calibration) canbus can certainly be used to receive the O2 sensor signals, and this is actually preferred over an Analog input as it prevents ground offset plus it gives you access to temp + error codes if the lambda controller sends them. The fact you previously had both modules on the same canbus means they should connect at the same bus speed. You will need to either configure your lambda controller to output message in "Link CAN-Lambda" format, or find/have a spec sheet of the messages it sends so you can configure the CAN receive channel in the Link to read the data. the flex fuel sensor goes to any available DI, yes. FYI the story on SR20 rocker arm failures seems to be that ignition cut limiters are a big cause of this. Either configure your limiters to kick in very gently, and/or use fuel cut as your rpm limiter method..

your post start enrichment table shouldnt be negative. Yours is all -20 for some reason. Try something more like this Also, what temperature is it there? Your Air temp is showing -4C and your coolant temp shows 8C. Do these sound reasonable?

You could verify the pinout by checking continuity between the crank sensor pins (unplug the crank sensor) and pin 17 & 43 or whatever it should be at the ecu connector end, and then do the same to the sensor ground & signal wires from the cam sensor (ECU unplugged as well - test at the connector). To test the 12v signal, plug in the ECU but unplug the cam sensor, then with key on, check for 12v on the pin you didnt find as cam or sensor ground. The 12v to the cam sensor may have been verified by your OEM ecu swap test, but its worth checking excplicty as some time OEMs can swap over to batch fire+waste spark mode if there is no cam signal and you wouldnt really know.

1) your fuel table is all "100". It *might* start like this but its not going to run well. As a starting point, copy the fuel table from any of the base maps running modelled mode - I think the monsoon base map has one you can use to start. 2) you could drop the ignition table 1 values for 100kpa 0rpm to 5 or 10, instead of 20. It should start as is, but its easier on the starter motor if you have a very low number in the cranking ignition cell. 3) you probably need to give it some gas pedal to fire up. I dont see any idle control systems configured so it will need some throttle to start, at least until you get it dialled in well. 4) not your starting issue, but you have 2x Check engine light outputs configured? 5) Youve got it configured for ~1000cc injectors. Is that correct? If your injector vendor supplies short pulse data you should enter this too. When you say "all timing is correct", does that mean you have run the trigger 1 calibration process and the timing mark is stable and at the right timing? Or are you referring to physical distributor timing?

that scope shows a whole lot of nothing. Were you cranking the car already when you clicked the capture button? Adam is probably right about pinout differences but at least pin 16+17 which are trigger1 & 2 look to be the same pins, so you should see a trigger signal even if there are other issues.

run a trigger scope capture while cranking it. Lets see what (if any) signal is coming in from the crank & cam sensors.

the simple version of how to test this is what you are doing now - check voltage at a few points along the circuit and see when you see a significant drop. Remember to always use the same ground point because low voltage can also be caused by bad grounds. The more accurate way (that rules out ground side issues too) is to load the circuit up (remove the ECU, connect a head light bulb (so around 4-5amp load, which is safe on that circuit) between the ground and 12v ign wires, then turn on the key. Now set your meter to voltage and measure *along* the wires - eg first measurement will be battery positive to the screw down point in the main fuse box where that battery/alternator line comes in. On a healthy wire you will see something like 0.1-0.2v (or the same negative amount if you have the meter backwards, but it doesnt matter). If you see 1v or so on your multimeter it means you lost 1v between those test points and should go looking for a bad contact. Then repeat for each individual wire/pair of available test points. ie you could test both in & out sides of the EFI relay if you lift up the fuse box and pop the bottom off. Also test the grounds using the same process - ive worked on an sw20 before that had ECU voltage issues when cranking because the ground straps to the engine had poor contacts. You dont need the car running for this as the drop will be nearly the same at 12v vs 14v.

your coolant temp sensor is still miscalibrated - unless its actually -28C where you live. It is hooked up as I can see it increases by 10-20C over the couple minutes of logging, which is normal, but its miscalibrated. What sensor are you using? This is making you add at least 75% more fuel than you are expecting. Your TPS is also miscalibrated - it shows the same value for fully open & fully closed. This cant be the case. Run the TPS caliration process under ecu controls menu. Various tables in your tune use TPS% as an input. if this is badly wrong, it will mess things up all over the show. idle ignition control is enabled but both the engagement thresholds and the values in the table are way off anything normal. Turn this off for now as the current settings will be doing more harm than good. your idle control is set to closed loop, but i'm guessing from everything else in this tune that the open loop settings were never tuned first. Change this back to open loop for now. Its hard to tell how far off your idle values really are or if the stepper motor is even working because the temp sensor + TPS issue mean idle control never even kicks in. Once you have fixed those 2 up, please post the PCLR file and another log just like this one. The tune you have is really just an out of the box defaults kind of thing. Its going to take quite a bit of work to get it going well so you're going to need to find a local tuner at some point soon. We can probably help you get it to start & idle ok but to get any real power out of it you are going to need someone to tune it in person.

thats normal. MAP = manifold ABSOLUTE pressure. so the ~100kpa / 14.5 psi of Barometric pressure is displayed as well. MGP is what you are probably use to which will be 0 at this point.

can you post the config as it is now, and a log of you starting + driving it?

Those are pretty normal numbers. Remember the post start enrichment only applies for 3-5 seconds before it switches over to the warm up table with typically much lower values. This means it's really only to provide a bit of extra petrol to wet the port walls etc and deal with unstable air flows from cranking. Once running for 5+ seconds this setting has no impact on anything See the "hold time table" for how long exactly this table is in effect for.

You are correct, charge temp approximation does not apply in traditional model. If you watch carefully, the table/menu disappears when you swap a tune to traditional mode, and just like you say, you have to go back to using an IAT compensation table.

The ignition idle table in v5 looks pretty normal. The one in v6 looks to have been forgotten then ignition idle was disabled, and then picked up junk values. I'd suggest you turn ignition idle back on and use the v5 table. However, leave throttle idle control in open loop for now, and disable closed loop lambda. Both of these can be enabled later on, but get the tune right first.

I'm not convinced your idle stepper motor is resetting correctly. This will make your idle really inconsistent. You have an output configured as ECU Hold power, but the settings menu for this is not present, and the f12 status screen shows it as disabled. This, combined with your idle settings of "reset @ key off" suggests to me that the stepper reset isnt completing. Your firmware is also really old, so bumping that up will likely help as there have been a fair few idle related fixes in the last couple firmwares. I'd do this first, but read all the revision notes and back up your config first! If you are still seeing "hold power disabled" in the f12 aux functions screen (correct value would be enabled/active), then try changing the idle stepper reset to "key-on". This will delay startup but work around apparent bug you have - assuming firmware doesnt fix it. Also, this cell in your fuel map should be more like 54

The ignition timing jumps @motomattx identified are probably because your ignition idle table isnt right. The values in there are not additive, they are absolute - so if your ignition table is set to 15*, you should have the "0 error" row of ign idle table also at ~15*. you have it at 0, so its slowing down nicely, then suddenly jumps to 0 or even negative timing as soon as it hits 1700rpm. You also have the speed lockout disabled by setting it to 0kph, so it can kick in at pace whenever your rpm gets low. Looking at your log, there way also be some low load misfire/jumpy-ness at light throttle while picking up speed. Your idle control is not active here so it might be a differnt problem. This looks like it goes very lean around 2000-2500rpm when at light throttle, so I think you have 2x separate problems.

aux out triggering based on vehicle speed is what i've done in the past. Run 1 side of the solenoid to a relay fed 12v feed, and have the aux out ground the other side to set/release the solenoid. Single condition GP output based on driven wheel speed. Note that this assumes you have the driven wheel speed inputs configured in chassis settings.

Looking at the pulse widths of it running, 725cc looks like a believable number. It also seems to run ok for now so probably not worth ripping them out to check. Maybe if there are other issues later. Next thing I notice is that you are running off the bottom edge of the ignition idle map and so sitting at minus 6.5* timing at idle, and you are still 5-600 over target. You are also running quite rich at points. First thing would be to tweak the fuel cells around idle so there is not so much of a jump between them (eg aim for around 5% difference in neighboring cells as a starting point), and anywhere it runs rich, drop the cell and those near it by 3 or 4 points. Once your idle fuelling is ok, then you probably need to bump up quite a few cells in the base idle table by 5 or 10 points (maybe 20) until your idle gets more under control. Low timing at idle may be why it always felt a bit flat taking off - espeically when its negative. In fact your ignition idle table could probably have say 5 points added to every cell at 0 error and below. Dropping this sharply to negative ignition numbers will make it drop rpm really quickly once you have the idle valve operating more normally.

Ethanol does need quite a bit more cold enrichment than petrol (sometimes nearly double when you are talking <5C). Looking at your log however, you have 1300cc injectors running at ~12ms, so that should be enough to start, especially for how long you are cranking it. More likely, I think its to do with your idle/throttle control. I dont see an idle valve anywhere, and your idle control is essentially not set up. You will need to give the car some throttle to get it to fire up when cold, or connect an idle valve of some sort. Can you post another log of you trying it with ~10% throttle? I assume it starts ok when warm, and that it runs ok once warmed up?

Did you also set the base fuel pressure to 300/350/whatever you are running? This will show up and default to 0 as soon as you set "Map referenced". Because it just dies its a little tricky to be certain, but it looks like it goes crazy rich (~53ms injector pulse), so I suspect one of the other fuel system parameters is wrong/missing. The fuel table1 values arent perfect but it should still start & probably idle with what you have in there. Are your injector parameters correct? 725cc @ 310kpa with the dead times & spw's as defined? can you post the current pclr and a log of it trying to start after your changes?

The altezzalink pinout in the help file shows inj5 & inj6 as O2 sensor heater & second o2 sensor heater if fitted to the vehicle. Pin O3 & Q11.

Couple options that spring to mind (note: I haven't actually implemented these, so no guarantees) 1) use a thunder and set it up as ethrottle#2. This can run a separate target table with any axis input you want (assumes there is a position feedback signal from the VVEL motor) [edit] - just realised the VQ37's ran dual ethrottles already so this is out. 2) A similar external circuit as that used to adapt a 3 wire idle valve to 2 wire control - this would give you the ability to command the VVEL position using a single PWM output with it being converted to push/pull before it hits the VVEL motor (note that this would be open loop control only. I dont think there is an easy way to set it up to match a position target even if you did wire a position sensor back to a separate input) I would also think that piston to valve clearance is unlikely to be an issue. Pistons dont magically get farther away from valves at high rpm, so your valve lift limits should be the same at all rpm's/loads. The 1x caveat for this is that if you also run VVT cam phasing this does impact clearance, and maybe the OEM ECU only allows full VVEL lift when VVT is above/below certain values. Most OEM's dont build things that will go full grenade because of a single solenoid failure however so i'd be very surprised if valve-piston clearance was an issue at any VVT+VVEL angles. If you are running larger cams then that's another story and you'll have to check carefully. Have a look at this helpful wiring diagram I found http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBILE/NISSAN/g37/ec.pdf (VVEL controller wiring is on page EC-534) The VVEL control is handled by a separate computer in factory trim. This speaks CAN to the ECU and sniffing + copying this & leaving the controller there is probably the easiest way to control it. Then just create an arbitrary table that determines the "number" to request as a VVEL target angle. Controlling the 2x VVEL modules directly from the ECU essentially requires 2x extra ethrottle drives.

There are a handful of things fundamentally wrong with your fuel setup. I suspect your previous config leaned really heavily on accel enrichment to fix things up, but now with a "normal" enrichment that drops off after a second or 2 its exposing other issues. Quite simply, your fuelling settings are causing it to run very lean under pretty much any load over ~25% TPS. Specific issues I can see (probably not all of them): your fuel system type is configured as "no pressure correction" - ie its a fixed fuel pressure regardless of manifold pressure (aka you have no vacuum/boost ref to your fuel regulator). If this is true, you probably need to change it now you have boost going through the engine. If its not true, your config need to be modified to match the real world your fuel density coefficient is set to that of methanol, but your AFR is set to that of petrol. 1 of these is wrong and will throw off modelled mode calculations your fuel charge cooling coeffient number is 53C. Unless you somehow measured this or know that this is correct for your fuel, set it back to 10 like it typically is for petrol engines. the values in your fuel table seem a bit suspect. 135% VE @ -80kpa MGP, then 65% VE @ -20kpa MGP, both at 2000rpm. Then there is a massive jump of ~40% between the 0 & +20kpa lines. In general your VE table should roughly match the shape of your torque curve. Your fuel table needs some serious work. You have closed loop lambda enabled - which isnt bad in itself, but you shouldnt be trying to tune it with this enabled as it will mean the ECU is busy correcting things in the background, so your changes may not do what you think they should. Only turn this on once you have a good tune, and this just smooths out environmental issues. It shouldnt be used to "make" the fuel tune.

Nope. All power feeds for the ethrottle TB come via the ECU. There are 6 pins to most eTB's: motor+, motor-, 5v ref, ground ref, and 2x tps signals for redundancy. All of those connect to the ECU directly. The ECU gets this power via the existing power feeds on most of the plug ins, and via an additional 12v input on the standalones, but from the cars perspective, it's just supplying more power to the ECU somehow