cj

Nothing too helpful in the log. I can see Inlet RH is reporting "no signal", and VVT control status for this cam is "OFF, CAM Signal error". Looking at your old map this was DI2. All system voltages etc look ok so I can only assume its a wiring issue to this cam sensor. Was the cam test running during this log? you dont command any VVT movement on any cam.

2x biggest things are 1) your coolant temp sensor thinks its -25C. Your intake temp sensor says ~+25C. I'm guessing your ECT is calibrated wrong, and this will make the fuelling very far off target - probably creating the poor idle you talk about 2) your log doesnt show any RPM signal. What was happening at the time you recorded the log? you need to start logging, then crank + start the car, fight with it, let it idle, etc, let it stall, then stop logging, then save the log. This will be much more use to us to help you.

according to an autozone parts+vehicle fitment page I found, the petrol & diesel models of the same year use the same pedals

Going by this site I found on google it looks like 6 pins in a row? https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/2006-apps-code-p2127-need-wiring-info.246257/ 1 5v supply sensor2 2 sensor2 signal 3 ground sensor2 4 ground sensor 1 5 signal sensor 1 6 5 supply sensor 1 because its symmetrical, if you have it wired backwards all that will happen is main & sub are backwards which is an easy fix in the ECU.

Low side drive vs high side drive determines whether the ECU sends ground or 12v when the output is commanded on. When an output is off, think of it like a 6v output - half way between/floating/no specific voltage. Its not technically outputting 6v but it helps to imagine it this way. Low side driven outputs "send" ground when switched on, and float/send nothing when off. High side driven outputs send 12v(aka 14v) when switched on, and float/send nothing when off. The other setting you will see on some functions is Polarity, which is separate but related to high vs low side drive. Best way to think of polarity is whether the output signal defaults to on or off (aka whether "on" means floating or the chosen signal output). The examples in the help file you screenshotted show where you would use this, although to be fair its sometimes easier to just switch the setting until you get the behaviour you want from the device at the other end - espeically if you arent sure whether the device requires 12v or ground to activate.

The COR is best thought of as a traditional fuel pump relay - ECU grounds pin 4 and the pump turns on. No ground here, no fuel pump. The dual position relay marked FPR is a high/low switch for the fuel pump [if its enabled at all by the COR]. on 1x path it runs via a big resistor so the pump sees less voltage. Given you have probably completely rebuilt the fuel lines anyway to run the bigger engine, i'd ditch the FPR relay & wiring and run the COR as simple on/off fuel pump control. Exactly how you do this is up to you but on factory wiring i'd just join the 2x wires going into the big resistor together so that it doesnt matter which position the FPR relay is in. Ac...the biggest problem with AC in these is that most of them were built for R12a refrigerant which you cant buy any more. Assuming you re-do all the seals for something R134a compatible then you can get started. If you dont sort the seals on the whole system, it wont last very long before it starts leaking gas and you have no cooling. Lets say you got around that though.... the igniter input to the ac amp is just to switch off the compressor at high RPM. The link ecu can do this for you anyway so just leave it disconnected. You wont have a high output ignition coil feed to run to it anyway on a modern engine. The factory wiring is set up so that when the AC amp triggers the clutch to engage you'll see +12v on the black/white wire at the ecu as well, so this can be your idle up signal to the ECU. There is also an ACA/AC1 pin from the ac amp to the ECU which is grounded by the AC amp when it requests ac compressor operation. You probably only need 1x of either this or the actual compressor engagement signal. The pin labelled ACT is the signal from the ECU to the ac amp to cut ac operation. The ECU grounds this pin to request AC cut. As @Adamwsays, you have an option to drive the AC compressor relay directly from the ECU - and the pressure switches are in line with the relay feed so you dont worry about those. You would also need to run the pink wire from the controls to the ECU as an ac request. Depending on how much re-wiring you've done i'd say its probably a touch easier to use the amp though - that way you dont need to re-wire the fans to a radiator switch or the ECU (factory fan circuit is separate from the ECU but uses the AC amp to read radiator water temp). You trade 2x inputs (a/c amp version) for 1x input & 1x output if you move to ECU controlled AC wiring, but you more than likely also need to use an additional output for radiator fan control too. That might be good or bad tradeoff depending on what pins you have available.

Yes

Can you post the config file you are currently using, and a log of its starting+idling? It will be a lot easier to help with all the info available. If you think the idle valve control is having no effect, try removing the idle valve from the car, but leaving it plugged in, then try making the valve move via the ecu config. You should see it open & close Did you follow this process to wire up the solenoid? If you have it backwards it will not function correctly.

So basic engine/idle theory... **assuming your trigger1 offset is correct** engine power output is from compressing & igniting fuel + air. The more fuel + air you have in the cylinder, the more potential power. The ignition angle (ie "when" you ignite the mixture in the 360* cycle) determines how much of that potential power is actually created. In 95%+ of petrol/ethanol engines, you "control" the air intake, and the computer/carb adds an appropriate amount of fuel to match. To have a stable idle, the engine output power (torque) must equal the amount required to keep the engine turning over. Any less & it stalls, any more and the revs increase. So the 2 levers you have to pull to get a stable idle (at any rpm) are 1) how much air you let in 2) what ignition angle you fire the spark plugs at You are only changing #2 here, but it sounds like you have #1 a bit off vs the factory specs. 25* ignition at idle is quite high, so I suggest you need to increase the air flow at idle - either idle stop screw on the throttle, or increase the idle control settings in the ECU to allow more air. You will then see your idle jump up to higher rpm, and when you reduce the ignition table values it should come back down. I cant give you exact values, but typical factory ignition idle angles are usually in the 10-20* range, and in your case it sounds like the manual says 5*. You dont have to match this exactly as your idle numbers can also differ from factory, but its usually a reasonable starting point. You are extremly unlikely to have knock or other spark related damage at idle speeds, so there is no real "dangerous" ignition number for idle, its just what works well for your car. Knock only becomes an issue as the engine comes under mid-high load (note that low rpm can still be high load however when you press the throttle hard)

Cam angle test is under VVT control > VVT Setup > Cam Angle Test. Set this to each cam, 1 at a time, set the number of pulses (which will show up when you pick a test cam) to what you think you have (doesnt matter if you are wrong), run the engine at idle and press f12. Scroll the f12 window to the right with the green arrows until you find VVT. in the middle is a table of Cam angle pulse positions. These should be pretty much stable, and the smallest value is what you should have for that cam's offset. If the numbers are jumping around everywhere then you have the pulse count wrong so move it up or down until the cam angle numbers stabilise. When you are finished, set the cam angle test to "off" again. The idle target only does anything if you have one of the systems set up to adjust things to make you hit target. To start with you (sensibly) have everything in open loop mode. The 2 that have a big impact here are closed loop idle (throttle control) and ignition idle (adjusts ignition timing to push idle up/down to meet target. For now, just edit your "Idle Base Position table" down a few points until you get the idle you want. Closed loop control essentially does this for you dynamically once you turn it on, but you need the base numbers pretty close to start with anyway. A lot of the time I will leave idle control on open loop anyway and only use ignition idle for "closed loop" correction.

As I understand the variocam on these engines is just on/off intake cam phasing by a fixed amount? In this case, its only the intake valve opening & closing angles that are advanced relative to everything else in the engine. Your spark timing is not affected by this. Assuming the engine is all stock, there will be mechanical stops to prevent over advance to the point where you get piston-> valve clearance issues. At which point the only place you need to consider this from a tuning persepctive, is that the fuel cells between 1300rpm & 5200rpm will need to be a bit richer because of higher VE. If you change the cam switching parameters then you likely need to adjust your fuel table cells that move from "in" to "out" of the variocam activation range or vice-versa. If you think its impacting your idle, just disable it by disabling aux 7 & 8 or change the rpm limit up to 4k or something way above idle, then turn it back on later. I suspect this is not your issue though, and its more likely to be incorrect fuel table values/master value & that you have closed loop idle control enabled & are hoping this will automatically sort out your idle valve settings, but probably haven't run through the open loop calibration first (see the help file for this process).

your ignition table itself looks like a good starting point the trigger1 offset you have to find yourself with a timing light as suggested by Adam. It can be different on each engine so we cant tell you exactly what number to use. remember to press enter after typing in an offset to get it to stick. As for your idle issue, maybe fuelling? Can you post a log of it happening please? Also disable launch control, its set to "on with DI4/clutch switch" so may be on accidentally which will pull 10deg of timing and other things unhelpful to idle. Unlikely to be your idle problem but I suspect there is something wrong with your oil temp sensor (shows a reading of -33C when ECT & IAT are both ~20C), and you engine compartment temp gauge is reading in KPA because of its calibration, which makes no sense at all.

Do you mean that with the dash unplugged, you dont get a speed reading at all on whatever DI is configured as vehicle speed, or do you mean that the MXS dash doesnt show vehicle speed? On those late 90's civics the VSS is wired straight to the ECU (and tee'd to the dash) so the ECU should still see DI frequency input with the dash disconnected. Normally the ECU would be providing the pullup voltage but maybe its coming from the dash in your case - have you got pullup set to on for the speed input DI?

have you calibrated trigger1 with a timing light? 35ms master value is really high on pretty much any injectors unless the fuel table numbers are all single digits.

So the point in your log where idle is stable shows ~5 deg of timing. technically you could just set everything in the ign1 table below ~1500rpm to 5deg and it should stablise. This is quite a low number though so I suggest you set everything below 1500rpm to say 10 or 15 deg as suggested by JMP, but it must be all the same number in the cells near idle (for now). Once idle is stable, even if its too high, you can proceed. Next thing is drop the values in the base idle table a few points until you get the idle rpm you want. Once you have it mostly stable, turn on ignition idle control, with the "zero error" cell in the middle set to the same 10-15 value you used in your ign1 table.

Pretty much what Brad said. You ethrottle target table + your base idle table is way too high, and you are leaning on closed loop corrections massively. Warm idle on your car is apparently around 3.5% throttle opening. Your target table is 5 + your base idle table is another 3. Your target table should probably be all 0 in that top line (except at <500rpm-ish if you want some anti-stall behaviour), then your base idle table numbers will be pretty close to where you want to be. Have a look at the warmup cells on your log for an idea of what you should set the base idle table to be at each temp. eg at 50*C during warmup you can see its at target RPM with 7.5% throttle, so set the 50C cell in base idle table to 7.5% (minus any value in your ethrottle table). Repeat at each 10*C point and you will have a good start point for closed loop to work from.

If you are only looking for relative changes in MAF, I'd assume it doesnt matter if the MAF is pretty incorrect or calibrated incorrectly (in absolute terms). In this case, just stick any old MAF that fits in the side of the intake pipe. The fact that its potentially only metering say ~25% of the air because its not in the middle of the flow wont matter because you can still see "better" or "worse" for the purposes of VVT tuning.

Also check that pin "MES" (on the fury pinout) is has continuity between the ECU connector and pin 5 on the 4.9 connector.

Your lambda sensor is showing an error of "open circuit compensation resistor" This is the 6th pin that looks to go no-where and as far as I know run from this pin through a resistor in the plug to the ground wire. Have you done any wiring extensions or re-pinning of connectors towards the lambda sensor? Check power and ground to the lambda sensor by connecting them to a headlight bulb instead of the real sensor. Couple other things I noticed that wont impact WB but are worth looking at 1) your cams sensors are all reporting errors that increase with run time - and your VVT offsets are all set to 170deg with trig2 VVT set 230 to match the help file, even though your trigger 1 offset doesnt match that in the help file. Have a read of the section on determining correct cam angle offset for VVT and run the tests it talks about to ensure you have the offsets correct. Maybe that will get your VVT to stop throwing errors. 2) Your TPS target tracking is a bit off when letting off the throttle. This shows as revs dropping slowly as the throttle is still open 2-3% higher than normal for a couple seconds after you get off the gas pedal. You will need to adjust the PID settings in ethrottle setup to be a little more aggressive. In extreme cases this can lead to the throttle getting disabled by the ECU if it sees a target tracking error for too long as it assumes there is a fault.

can you post the PCLR file you got it running with please? your fuel table seems to have changed quite a lot - the first map showed ~45 in the cell where its idling, but the new log says its using a fuel table value of ~90. If you are still in traditional mode you need to drop the value in the fuel table by quite a lot or you will max out the fuel table under power (max value is 150). Lets say you halve every value in the fuel table, then you need to take on Adam's point above about the master value doubling. Traditional mode fuel equation is (simplified) injector ms = master fuel value x map value [100kpa = 1, 50= 0.5, etc], x fuel table number. so at 100kpa with a fuel table value of 100 you would get the same pulse width as master fuel. This also means you can double the master value, halve every cell in the fuel table, and still get exactly the same injector pulses. When I suggested you drop your master fuel, it was because your startup fuel pulse widths were very high, but I suspect you have changed a lot more than just the master value for that new log.

Yes it would but i'm not familiar enough with the 2JZ throttle wiring to tell you which value is correct. If you have it wrong/off I think you can only get the TPS to move to 40 or 50%. Set throttle control to "always run" then press the pedal & watch the throttle blade, does it move all the way open and closed?

Ah, looking at your tune again, both the TP & AP sub sensors max out at about 65% and are configured this way in the calibration, so those readings are in fact normal on your car. In traditional fuel tune (which you have configured) you dont specify the injector size directly, just an arbitrary number of milliseconds as a reference point for all other fuel calculations. In your case this is currently 16ms, and should probably be dropped to 8, then adjust as needed as it warms up to get warm idle at correct lambda. Then work on the rest of your fuel table. There is a guide on this in the help files under "first startup" or similar. Modelled mode does take into account all the injector parameters, so you need to decide early on which one you will use as the fuel tables are completed different, and a lot of the warmup&compensation tables need different values on a modelled tune

Normally the answer for more idle is more idle throttle opening. The table is based on engine temp already and looks normal, so something else is wrong here if you only see 500rpm. Your ignition table is very conservative - espeically at low load/idle. Try adding 10 to each of the idle range cells (500-1500rpm, <80kpa) which should make it idle a bit higher too, and you can likely add 10 to everything in the red shaded area below. Just leave the 0 row 80&100 kpa cells at lower values like you have to make starting easier.

What size injectors are you running and what fuel? Its pushing 17ms of fuel at 3-400 rpm so I suspect its running very rich unless they are very small injectors or methanol. There is something still badly wrong with your ethrottle. In the log, TP Main & Sub do not follow each other (sometimes they are both 100%, sometimes TP main is only 70-80% while sub is at 100%). I see the same pattern with your AP main & sub. Can you check that you have mixed up the pin assignments - ie that both sensors on the pedal are wired to AP main & sub - and NOT something like both AP sensors running to the 2x "sub" signals?

can you post a log of it trying to start please? Need that to give you the "right" answer. Things that might be a problem just from the tune file 1) you trigger 1 offset is not anywhere near the expected 1jz or 2jz angles, have you checked it with a timing light? 2) your ethrottle target table is all zero's. its also got a axis of MAP rather than AP%. It *might* start but it wont run well like this. 3) your inlet air temp is showing an error value - maybe its wired wrong? 4) your tp main & tp sub are about 3% apart. have you calibrated this?