cj

you have fuel pressure problems. Either your pump isnt working or your FP sensor is dead. Your tune uses FP sensor as a input to the fuel table (which is good) but its reading 0-2psi for the entire of both of those logs. The car therefore thinks you have no fuel pressure and is running the injectors flat out. If the sensor is right, your fuel pump isnt on, if the sensor is faulty, you'll be running is crazy rich. Either way, fix the fuel sensor on ANVolt6.

Does the wiring for your oil pressure light come via the ECU or straight from the engine to the dash light? Thats usually a very simple circuit and likely separate from the ECU so would be where I would start. It sounds likely that you lost a power or ground feed to your dash - so probably a loose or partially broken wire, or a dirty terminal in a connector.

There is no ABS -> ECU wire. It's a mistake in some of the wiring diagrams (either cluster or ABS) that show the wire also goes to the ECU, it doesnt. Its a Green/Black wire that goes ABS->dash. Pin 23 on the non VDC models and pin 36 on the VDC units (pin # on the ABS end). It does run a standard PWM out signal you could tap into if you didnt feel like connecting to the can bus. Easiest location to get at it is the "OP Connector" which is under the drivers dash in RHD models - its about a 4x4 big square plug that is usually either right above the brake pedal or near/behind the fuse box. It will just be sitting there unplugged form anything - find the Green/Black wire. I've got the canbus ID's and a fair bit of the data identified I can send you - you should be able to sniff it from the canbus with the factory ECU connected with a $20 chinese canbus sniffer. There are 3x ID's the ECU normally sends out but you wont be able to exactly replicate the factory output from the link as there are some arbitrary counters etc. I suspect (But havent tried it) that if you broadcast the right id's it will keep the dash happy even if the data is mostly blank - I think at a minimum you would just read speed from canbus, and put coolant temp out + maybe some gauge warnings lights if you wanted. All other stuff is likely optional.

the abs system doesnt touch the ecm in factory wiring, and it also has no canbus in/out. It is just power, ground, a whole lot of outputs to the airbags, and a whole lot of inputs from crash sensors & seatbelt switches etc. It has 1x output to the dash for the failure light & 1x output to the 16pin data connector pin10 (not the normal ECU/canbus pin). Thats it. It looks like it has no idea whats going on with the rest of the car. If you dont have something that can read Airbag codes (maybe freeSSM?, not sure it can do airbags though). If you have a high end scan tool (eg autel/snapon/ADS/launch) that might work, otherwise maybe take it to a shop and have a real select monitor put across it? Otherwise start with power & ground checks. The highspeed canbus error is probably because the dash or BIU is expecting signals from the ECU and not seeing them (ie you havent configured the right outputs), or because you havent wired the CAN lines to the ECU so its missing a terminating resistor.

I suspect you could make it work if its a manual but it may require some simple re-wiring around the AC systems (or for you to reverse engineer the BEAN signals) but it wont be plug & play. From what I know of these BEAN is just used between the dash & the ECU and is mostly used for electrical load infromation, AC status/requests, and the temp gauge. All your important signals are still in non-canbus form on these - triggers, injectors, coils, speed, tacho etc. Pretty sure they were all cable throttle too. Tacho is a standard PWM output from ECU -> dash fuel level is all self contained between the gauge cluster & the tank sender speedo is from the abs unit to the dash, then a dash output to the ECU & the power steering controller. Its a standard PWM signal that can connect to a DI. AC clutch is all controlled by the ECU (ie it controls the mag clutch & gets input from the pressure sensor & lock sensor), but the user requests & whatever status lights it sets are over canbus (ac unit -> gauges as normal wires then canbus ->ECU). You could probably intercept the ac unit switch & light wires and connect them to the link ECU if you really wanted to, but climate control will probably break as the internal temp sensors wire back to the gauge cluster. temp gauge is the one that will catch you up... there is only 1 sender & it goes to the ECU. that means the ECU will be happy but to keep the factory gauge working you need to output in on BEAN. Maybe someone familiar with the BEAN outputs on the altezza plugins can confirm if these signals sound the same. Making an adaptor that would be my best guess at this point short of piggybacking the factory ECU to run the dash. BEAN is one of those not very commonly used toyota-only things so I've never seen much in the way of reverse engineering tools for it.

error 77 is Accel Pedal Main & sub correlation issues. Nothing to do with your throttle body. Can you post a map & log of you pressing the gas pedal slowly from nothing to the floor and then slowly back off? How is your accel pedal wiring done?

Looks ok so far. Can you grab 2x more scope captures please - one with your current tune but hold rpms at about 5k where you see that misfire issue, and then for the second one, please set the VVT inlet target table to 30/40/whatever is max @ ~2500rpm and then run another scope capture at just over 2500rpm so we can see if anything changes on the triggering when the cam fully advances.

Which cam are you using for trigger 2? It should be left inlet cam (ie passenger side on an RHD vehicle) Can you run a trigger scope and check the polarity is correct on cam + crank sensor. Wrong polarity on either trigger can cause limiter-ish feeling behaviour like you describe. Should be consistent regardless of VVT but worth checking. What settings have you got for Trigger2 VVT? Have you got a log of either fault happening? it would be interesting to look at the reported VVT positions at the time it faults, and if any triggering errors a present.

Your fuel table is a pretty poor starting point for modelled mode. Try copying the table out of the monsoon base map & starting from there. I'd expect you to be pretty close to starting it even as it is, but its not going to run well at all. Have you verified that your fuel pump turns on + off correctly if you change aux6 from "fuel pump" to "test On" for a few seconds? I dont see any idle control valve hooked up so you may need to hold the gas pedal 5-10% open to start it cold. Are you running e85 or petrol?

Couple of things to look at 1) your ignition timing change a lot from 1500-2000rpm so any change in engine rpm in this range results in a large change in output power so the change is magnified. you may be able to smooth this ignition table just over 1000rpm or so 2) you are running very low injector pulse widths. Looking at the logs, it looks like the first thing to move when the rpm starts to fluctuate is fuel pulse width. it very quickly builds into a bigger problem where i'm guessing the car bucking causes your foot to press the gas pedal a little in time with the rpm jumps and its all down hill from there, but the rpm jumps start before the AP moves. The first couple fluctuations are tied only to what look like very small fuelling changes, but at those low pw's a small number matters, especially if its in the non-linear response range. What injectors do you have, and is the dead time+ SPW data for them correct at your used fuel pressure?

have you run a trigger scope capture to make sure the trigger sensors in the new dizzy are wired the right way around?

How do you know its a fuel overheating problem, what tests have you run? Unless you are running very high pressures and amperage at the pump you typically see more heat picked up by the fuel in the rails (next to the hot engine) than you do in the pump anyway so there is a good chance you dont take away the biggest heat source by moving to returnless. If you are sure you have fuel heating issues, have you checked for other likely sources - exhaust running near the fuel line maybe. There have been a couple blogs or videos by guys who have put half a dozen temp sensors at various points in the fuel lines to prove where major sources of heat are in a fuel system - ask google and see what turns up. Its likely to be easier to put a fuel cooler on the return line and fix the symptom rather than the problem, especially if you arent 100% sure that the pump is the source of your fuel heating.

If you drive a DI to too high a frequency it fails to 0. So the non drive wheel speed will be received as 0kph. I've never tried it, but I think if you added a 1kph column to the slip table (to separate 0kph from 1kph), and set this whole 0kph column to 100% (ie allow any slip/no traction control), then it would perform TC as requested up to between 80-150kph (actual failure frequency is usually a fair bit over 500Hz), then once it fails to 0 it will hit the non-driven speed column for 0kph, which would have values essentially disabling TC.

one of the aux outputs, injector outputs, or ignition outputs will be configured as "radiator fan". Find this and change it from polarity low to polarity high. If that fixes it then save the tune. This setting essentially swaps the on & off states as far as voltage/ground is concerned. Its quite possible the default tune on the ECU has this backwards for the wiring in your car.

Looks like you have a 4 digit serial number, there was a known issue a while back where dealers were forgetting to add the leading 0 to make it 5 digits. Maybe thats the problem here?

Yes it is. Check the pinout in the help file then connect 12v, ground, and the programming cable and you are good to go

If you have the whole car converted to DBW then you dont need the cruise module at all. You wire up the cruise switch to the ECU directly and it handles cruise control via DBW. you need brake & clutch switches fed to the ECU, and optionally some outputs for the cruise lights on the dash. That steering wheel switch can hopefully be replaced by one out of a DBW legacy or a non-sti model which I think look the same/have the same mount points. These switches already had the resistor based contacts in them so you get the 1-5v steps depending on which button you press. At this point you just wire the "output" wire from the switch anVoltX as you describe above

yes with a but... That base idle table has Engine coolant temp on the top axis, so you should only need to change the cell that matches the current ECT. What I do is wait until the car is dead cold. Start it up, open the base idle table, then touch absolutely nothing until the ECT gets to exactly 10/20/30 deg etc as listed on the top axis. Once it gets to the center of the cell (so the coolant temp matches exactly), bump up/down just that cell value until the idle is what you want, then sit there until it goes up another 10 deg.

In the help file here you can compare the ECU pinouts for yourself. press F1 in PCLink to open this.

press f12 to see that screen. There are some tabs up the top of the window, you are probably most interested in the CAN tab. On one of the other tabs will be the aux4 & DI12 output signals you are looking to use for pump control as well. 59.x Ohms sounds like a good number and suggests both ends are wired correctly.

If you stick a multimeter on CAN2 with all devices plugged in, you should see ~60 ohms. If you see 120 Ohm it means you only have 1x resistor installed, and if you see much higher numbers it probably means you only have the devices connected (eg its seeing continuity through the pump controller only, with who knows how much resistance (apparently 53K). There should be 1x resistor in the link ECU however, so the highest resistance you should be able to see is ~120 Ohm, regardless of what is connected to the other end. Can you describe how you have connected CAN2 to the pump - eg which wires/pins you connected at the ECU end and if you have any other joins or devices connected between the pump and the ECU?

you will need to change 3 or 4 wires if you use them. Here is the monsoon pinout and i've circled the pins that change compared to the xtreme plug A. xtreme's have a plug B as well so obviously anything on that plug you will need to wire in fresh. If you dont use CAN, DI4, or Aux5/6 then yes it plug in, upload the config, and away you go. Note that its probably a good idea to unplug injectors/spark/any other outputs prior to plugging in the blank ECU - you dont want random things turning on or off because the config is different to start with

Can you check the CAN wiring has no breaks or shorts with a multimeter? This looks not connected.

What do you have for an idle valve & is it connected? That log shows Idle valve % as 0 the whole time.

on a thunder, probably. On any other model, it will exceed the max frequency input. its going to send 1x pulse per blade that goes past it. If you have 10x blades in your compressor, @100,000 rpm you are seeing 16666 blades per second. Even a thunder DI maxes out at 6500hz - so with a lower number of blades or a lower expected turbo rpm then yes.