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rocklizzard91

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Everything posted by rocklizzard91

  1. Just kidding! I got it! I rolled back to the 2013 Intel graphics card driver and now it works! It must be a new Intel graphics driver issue :/
  2. Hey everyone, I rolled the laptop back to Windows 7 and I still have the slow data issues has anyone figured this out? I just don't understand why my dell on windows 7 has issues but my MacBook on windows 7 is just fine
  3. Oh man, that's very cool! That's an spendy little sensor, but I like the experiment you're going to do! Any idea when you're going to get around to doing that? I would certainly like to see the results!
  4. Hey everyone! I've got a Link G4+ plug-and-play ECU on my version 9 STI and I'm looking to put an air temp sensor in the manifold so that my ECU can compensate for the cooler air temps my water injection will bring. I have a Bosch open element sensor that I would like to use and I'm uncertain of placement. I'm thinking that I would either like to put it in the floor of the plenum sticking straight up so that air flows across it coming out of the throttle body, but I need to make sure that I have space underneath the manifold for me to put the sensor there. I would also need to have a bung welded on for that location which will cut down my clearance a little bit as well. My alternate location is in one of the runners which seems like it would always have good airflow across it and it's closer to the port so it should be a more accurate air temperature. However, I'm worried that it might cause turbulence which may affect fueling to that cylinder. Do you guys have any thoughts or comments? I don't daily drive the car but I would like to have the ability to if needed, so I would like to avoid difficult heat soaked hot starts, which I do think the plastic sensor will help cut down on versus the metal GM sensor. I have included pictures have both my proposed locations https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pQMTF77ts3Lf9lIoy9a4Jie4tHulovN5/view?usp=drivesdk[/img] https://drive.google.com/file/d/1opsO1nXJpXZ7-jxnvbgBy-jlz_Osoip5/view?usp=drivesdk[/img] I'm open to any input! Thanks!
  5. I tried the rolled back driver and it helped a little bit. Its still not as good on my Dell windows 10 machine vs on my Macbook windows 7 though :( I did try the basic layout on the current driver and it might actually be worse. At this point I'm considering going back to windows 7 on the Dell to see if that "fixes" my problem.
  6. I do have the drop-down set to 625k and no slow connection checked The Dell laptop says "Intel(R) HD" under the display adapters tab. It says the driver is up to date. Maybe I should roll it back? I also found this for it's info if this helps
  7. Hello all, I've been using my older Dell Inspiron N5010 laptop for tuning for the last couple years. Last week I went to do some tuning on my PnP Link G4+ and the data was lagging pretty badly. I hadn't changed any of the settings both on the laptop or the ECU. Long story short, I ended up reimaging the computer with Windows 10 (same OS I was running previously) and I still have the lagging problem. I plugged in my MacBook with Windows 7 on bootcamp and it seems to be perfectly fine. I will attach videos, but the issue is that when I blip the throttle the tracer in the fuel tab doesn't even respond by the time the engine is revving down. Sometimes not at all. Any ideas what it could be? I have tried: Reimage, reboot, uninstall/reinstall PCLink, different USB port The Dell on W10: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uJ6uPC5fRxdk5PdSa6tk23mD8fF4vxGf/view?usp=drivesdk MacBook on W7: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J6eYJTRGcO8G-ZgWNFDk30XiaJCK0v4R/view?usp=drivesdk
  8. Perfect! Thanks Adam! I will only buy Injector Dynamics injectors, thats why I limited myself to the 1300/1700/2000s If the 1700s will idle ok, I think I will go with those. I don't think I will be running out of fuel with those any time soon
  9. Hello everyone, I'm running a Link G4+ plug and play ECU in my EJ207 powered WRX and I'm going with a rotated 7670 Borg Warner and flex fuel. I currently have ID1000 injectors on flex fuel and know I will max these out before i hit my goal, so I am looking for a bigger set of injectors. Guys running the factory Subaru ECU seem to have issues with larger injectors because the ECU doesn't handle the low PW required to idle 91oct very well. Seeing that I am running flex fuel, I will occasionally be running 91oct when I cant find e85, so I am curious about how well the Link ECU does with low pulse-widths idling 91oct. I plan to aim for about 450-500WHP on e85, so I'm leaning toward the ID1700/ID2000 but if drive-ability on 91oct will be poor, I can consider the ID1300 and see about running higher fuel pressure? I can also see about running a higher idle speed for 91oct if that will make or break a larger injector set. I appreciate any insight! Thanks!
  10. I have not yet got this sorted out. I did rough-in the map to 10psi and 8000rpm and see values start is 70 (idle) up to 120 (peak torque) and down to just under 100 at redline. I am running a rather small turbo, could this be boosting my airflow at low rpm enough to bump up the VE of the engine at idle?
  11. Any idea where the parameter for fuel temp for injector flow is? Spent a while last night trying to find it and I could only find the inputs for fuel density and cooling coefficient. You'd think the hotter the fuel is, the more it will flow? So I should see slightly less for injector size at the "regular" fuel temp test? I just don't want to "work around" to get them to flow correctly, it makes me feel like something else is wrong
  12. Alright! I checked my fuel pressure and I was correct at 43.5psi base and mid-high 30's at idle. Is there any other reason I might have such high VE values with everything else in the injector info entered correctly? I am using the factory 3-bar Version 9 STi map sensor, and I did calibrate it and I do think it saw relatively reasonable values at idle.
  13. Adam, that does make sense, just to verify, I can turn off IAT in the IAT fuel correction tab and select off? Or should I just zero out the fuel trim table? In the future i do plan to run water injection, is that something to consider using the IAT table for? Or will the ecu still do just fine with the charge temp table still? Again, thanks for the help!
  14. Right on, I will check fuel pressure this weekend, I was looking at the help file and it says to set the base by running the pump with the engine off. The ECU does account for the pressure drop in vacuum correct? I did turn off my IAT comps per CJs first suggestion post, it did seem to help a bit. Adam, are you saying that the modeled fuel mode should always have IAT comp tables off? Or only while setting up the VE initially? How will the ECU fuel correctly without adjusting for air density? Thanks again!
  15. I played with the VE table a bit today, just revving the engine in the driveway from idle up to about 3000rpm and input values that got me close to stoich. Is it normal to see such high values for VE down low in the MAP? I am positive I have the injector data and engine size set correctly, I did notice the fuel pump is not fully driven at idle, its reduced to 33%, could that be the reason I see such high VE values? ( I just interpolated values out past 3000rpm and 0psi, I do not plan to use them as input)
  16. Thank you guys for the help! Yes the map was originally for the traditional fueling mode, that does make sense that I need to treat it as VE not as % fuel! I will play with that tomorrow! CJ you are correct, I was manipulating the pressure in the map, not physically changing it via regulator. I did manage to get it to idle with the VE values a bit higher earlier today, but saw it was limited to 150 so I felt like I was going to run out of resolution quickly, good to know I should be ok!
  17. Hello everyone, I am having some troubles with getting my v9 EJ207 to run on the modeled fuel strategy. I can get it to run on the stock ECU and I have run the car on the traditional mode as well. The car is basically stock aside from Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors and a walbro 255lph pump. I am using the "spec-c" intake mounted IAT, factory ECT and factory V9 MAP sensor. I have a PLX SM-AFR wideband (not yet hooked up to the ECU, I have lambda corrections turned off so I assumed this will not affect the ability to run the car). As far as the map goes I have left everything as it comes from LINK aside from adjusting the PS voltage code, Tacho fix, switched to modeled in the "Fuel Main" tab added injector size info, latency and injector short PW adder tables. Number of cylinders is correct, engine size is correct, VE table is the LINK factory table, I'm running 91oct fuel, so I left the fuel density as from the factory as well. Fuel pressure is 43.5 as well. I can only get the car to run when I size the injectors at ~400cc, as I raise the injector size, the lamda leans out. Alternately I can lower the fuel pressure to ~20psi and it will let me raise the injector size closer to the true size, but my factory fuel pressure regulator is not a 20psi regulator. Does anyone have any pointers? I have included the map I am working on. I'm much more familiar with megasquirt and I'm sure I am overlooking something easy, any help is appreciated! 1000cc Modeled WRX V9 G4+ Xtreme Plugin.pclr
  18. Thanks Adam! Solved the problem! Is it an issue of swapping those pins in the manual? Ign #5 actually controls the C9 pin, not aux #4?
  19. Hey everyone, I'm trying to get my V9 EJ207 swapped 2002 WRX running on my G4+ plug and play ecu but I cant get the tach to work. I verified the pin is correct between the OEM wiring and the Link wiring. My OEM ecu drives the cluster as well. I'm curious if anyone has any idea how to get the tach to function. Currently it just does the OEM opening sweep and then rests at 0. Thanks!
  20. Alright so I am looking over factory wiring diagrams and the G4+ and it looks like there may be a wiring change for the AIT. Im going to check that out with the volt meter tomorrow. My next issue is the power steering switch. Subaru call for 10-14v from the PS switch. It looks like I cant turn up the warnings in the AN Volt 5, 5V is the max. 1-Can I turn this up? or do I need to convert to 5V? 2-Do I need the PS pressure switch? Does it have functionality in the ECU that would make it worth keeping?
  21. Perfect! Thank you! So I plugged in the ECU for the first time last night and I'm trying to use the Spec-C air temp sensor but it is throwing an error 49 code and it's reading temp at 212ish (I had not run the car in 48+ hours) I have not changed any of the factory wiring, it's as the v9 comes from the factory. Do I need to modify anything for the ECU to work correctly? I also have a error 22 for the powersteering that I didn't expect to see. Everything worked correctly on my factory ECU.
  22. Hello everyone! I just purchased my new G4+ for my v9 swapped 2002 WRX and I'm working on building a map before installing the ECU. Looking at the AIT options it looks like I can use the factory MAF sensor AIT (not recommended), the spec-c temp sensor in the manifold by the throttle body or add a GM sensor. I do have a GM sensor and I was going to have a bung welded into the intercooler endtank, but I'm curious how good the sensor in the manifold will work. If I choose that, does anyone have the scaling for that sensor? The drop-down menu looks like it only has a few Nissan factory sensor scalings, a Honda and a Bosch STD. Not sure which to use, I was hoping it would already have the factory scaling inputted. Does the same go for the factory ECT sensor? IIRC it defaults to Bosch STD as well. Thanks!
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