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AlexLSX7

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AlexLSX7 last won the day on May 3 2018

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  1. Yeah i do have them still, i will give them a try tonight. I just found a manual online for the gauges, if you look at page 7 it says it has 5v signal with a 10k pulldown, do i need to put a 10k resistor in line with it? It also says that the black wire is the pressure signal and the green wire is the ground, although the wire is not green in mine its just an open braid, but it did have a tiny bit of green sleeve on it when i took them off. http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/spa/docs/DG52 (50 issue 3).pdf
  2. So I did the fuel pump test. I did the red wire on +, black wire on - and the braided wire on the + on the voltmeter. I got a reading of 0.77 the same as last time. Turned the pump on and no change. I tried the red wire on +, braided wire on -, black wire on + on voltmeter. Reading was 0.76. turned the pump on and it went up to 1.68 then floated around there. Turned the second pump on and it went up to around 1.78 until I'm guessing the pressure equalised a bit and went back to floating around 1.68. Once I turned off the pumps the reading slowly went back to 0.76. So would I be right to assume that the red wire is 5v, the braided is ground and the signal wire is the black?
  3. There are a red and black wire and a like a braided wire that looks like wire without the cover. They are on the car at the moment and hard to see but the fuel pressure regulator looks like 3100H001
  4. So i did the test. Red on +, Black on -, Braided on volt meter = 0.77v Black on +, Red on -, Braided on volt meter = 4.5v All other combinations = 4.5v So according to that it was wired correctly? I only tried a couple of sensors which seem to be the same. If i tried my fuel pressure sensor then turn the fuel pump on the ECU, i should see some voltage change shouldn't i?? Due to the pressure increasing?
  5. Thanks man will give that a try.
  6. Also the TPS and ethrottle is wired into these two pins and they are working fine and showing voltages. Just drove the car and the ethrottle still working fine just nothing from the sensors :-/
  7. They are all coming up as 0 volts. Cut and rewired the ground, lives and signal wires and it has made no difference... These sensors were originally off spa design gauges should that make a difference?
  8. How do I see the voltage log on the an pins?
  9. I have a link G4+ Extreme that i want to wire some sensors in that i removed from some SPA gauges i had. I have an oil and fuel pressure sensor that are the same and a water and oil temp sensor which are also the same. There are 3 wires in all 4 sensors - A Red and a Black wire which are both wrapped in some foil shielding and an exposed braid as the 3rd wire. I wired the black wires into the sensor ground (pin 24 on A connector) I wired the red wires into the 5v out (pin 32 on A connector) Open braided wire into spare AN pins. Setup calibration on CAL 4 as fuel pressure and set to 0.45 - 4.5. Tried that on all 4 sensors incase i had them wrong one (they all look the same) and it made no difference on any of them. Have i wired them in wrong? This is a link to the data sheet for the pressure sensors, mine is a GEMS 3100H https://www.gemssensors.com/~/media/files/resources/na_english/catalogpages/catalog-h_3100series-3200series.ashx?fbclid=IwAR3Yzlqvvx1Kx_YDulCKLDvBi1seGmzOJfBxJd9JJVUcCSrDupLFazVhhQE
  10. They all have their own IDs, but no i haven't set them to the same bit rate. Will give that a try thanks Would it be better to set the widebands to 1mbit or the dash to 500?
  11. I have just wired up a brand new Aim MXS Strada 1.2 to my Link G4+ Xtreme. I have set the canbus settings as shown in the Link Help files on both the ECU and Dash. The dash will receive a signal from the ECU for a minute or so and then it will disconnect. If i go into the CANBUS settings on the ECU software then click 'Apply' it will reconnect again for around a minute or so. I set TPS as one of the readings on the dash so i know when its just about to disconnect as the readings will stop then go blank. I havent run the engine yet, this is just with the key switched to the 'ON' position. I have 2 AEM Widebands working through CANBUS that have been fine before this, so not sure what the problem could be? Any ideas?
  12. I have setup a digital gauge for GP Speed on DI 1 and it comes up as KPH no matter what my unit settings are for both imperial and metric. Any ideas how to fix it so it displays MPH?
  13. i have 3 dual SPA Design gauges in my car and was wondering if anyone had used the 5v Signal from them and wired them into the Link? I would like to have the Fuel Pressure wired into the Link for safety purposes and logging. If you look at page 7 you will see the plnout for the plug http://www.spa-uk.co.uk/SPA/docs/DG60 manual issue 1.1.pdf
  14. I havent done a boost run yet but off boost i did last night and its running great. I haven't done any timing yet though, that's mainly because my car is pretty aggressive and has a lot of torque (twin turbo ls3) with long gears. With the timing at 15* across the board its still picking up like an absolute monster and were picking up a lot of speed.
  15. Take the HP Academy Course and do it yourself. Its not particularly hard once you have the correct information. I finished the course a month or so back and took my car out the first time today for some tuning using the base setup they tell you to start with. Within 5 mins i had the car from a bucking stuttering mess to fairly drive able. Within about 1 hour i have a fairly decent cruise fuel map with no spluttering and pretty smooth drive-ability.
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