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  1. It worked perfectly! Thank you so much Adam! I thibk after seeing this I have learned how to add additional parameters to the can stream. I have a few other things id like to add now! I appreciate the help!
  2. adam you are awesome!!!!! thank you so much i eagerly await your help! thank you again
  3. I've been trying to add boost target psi, ethanol content, coolant pressure, and throttle body differential pressure to my can stream, and i cannot quite figure out where im going wrong. if one of you could take a peak and tell me if i'm missing something glaringly obvious that would be super helpful. i believe i have added them to the can outputs, but im not quite 100% positive. Any help with the dash design software would also be greatly appreciated. here are my dash design and tune files. thanks! 9_22_18 580hp 27psi_updated can profile.pclr rev5.0.aemcd7
  4. Cracking the throttle plate is what I’ll do then, I was unsure what the “right” thing to do was; hense this post asking for help. Thanks!
  5. it certainly does, i was under the impression it would be better to drill a tiny tiny hole than to crack the throttle body and re program the tps. would i be wrong in this assumption? i didn't want to affect the tps if at all possible since it is referenced by so many tables in the ecu. thanks! These are the current settings, if it’s any help
  6. Hey all, I am about at my wits end with my idle issues on my car. It will idle with the throttle plate 100% closed and responds to changes (slowly) made with the iacv to increase or decrease rpm. I would like to be able to control idle speed up to ~1500 rpm valve via the iacv, however at 1000 rpm my iacv starts hitting the max clamp value of 95. This is leading me to believe it is not capeable of flowing enough air to sustain idle with my larger than factory camshafts (bc272 cams) the second the ac kicks on, it rad fans the motor dies. I believe this is because the iacv is already at its max clamp value, thus rendering the step up tables that address these issues ineffective. id like to drill a SMALL hole in the throttle plate to allow more air into the engine at idle, and lower the duty cycle of the iacv. If I’m not way off track, this should make the step up tables work correctly (after the holes been drilled and lowers the duty cycle of the iacv to normal ranges) and allow me to prevent stallling when the ac or fans are kicked on. I’d also like to point out I’m currently utilizing the ign vs rpm table to help stabilize idle, and it has tremendously helped; however it hasn’t cured the current stalling issue. this throttle body is cable driven, and the motor is a Nissan ka24de. Thanks in advance for any Insight! Adam
  7. So I just had some time in the shop and setup the cal table as shown and I’m quite pleased to announce, the oil temp sensor is now working perfectly. Also following that video I was able to get the dash to read all the units I’m used to! Another great success!! Lastly, I cannot go off anything but memory for the iacv for the short term future. While it was on the dyno a week ago, it spun a rod bearring. The motor should be back in the car within the next week or two after the new crankshaft and rod are fitted. that being said, I did try unplugging the iacv before that dyno session and I distinctly remember that it made no impact on engine performance whatsoever. Idle did not dip, or alter in any noticeable fashion despite the iacv being plugged in or not. I was unsure if this was due to a bad iacv, or a bad calibration for the iacv. Thank you all once again for your prompt and accurate help! For reference, the iacv I am using appears to be quite similar to an sr20 iacv. the ka valve is the one with the idle step up (ac kick up) valve pointed straight up, and the sr20 valve the ac stepup is inline with the iacv.
  8. Hello, I've been working on getting my recent purchase of an aem cd-5 to work with my link g4+ extreme. Currently, I am using the aem supplied plug and play harness for the g4+ which is plugged into my ecu and dash respectively. The dash turns on with the ignition and the screen dims when the headlights are activated so all is great there. My trouble comes when trying to configure the aem dash to display the data Im hopping to see, and in the units id like to see it in. Using the plug and play setup, I am getting information displayed on the dash, but it appears to be only in metric units. I live in Washington state USA and would love to have it in Fahrenheit psi etc. Secondly, I currently have boost control setup with an aem 12 position trim pot and ethanol content. Is it possible to send what psi is being targeted to the dash? Thirdly, the oil temp sensor is an aem temp sensor (data sheet attached) the way my tuner has it setup now, it is far from accurate. I do not understand how to enter the data into the software to get it to read correctly. lastly, My idle has been oscillating quite a bit and frequently stalls and dies when the ac is activated. Is there anything glaringly obvious wrong with the current settings? ehicle is 240sx with ka24de-t, id1700 injectors (with pulse dampener on fuel rail), factory ka idle air control valve. thank you all in advance!!! 240sx linkg4 pcl file.pclr 240sx digital dash linkg4ecu.aemcd7 30-2012 Water Temp Sensor Kit.pdf
  9. this is a copy of what is in my ecu at the moment. my car is equipped with a aem 5 bar map sensor aem wideband injector dynamics id1700s gm ls2 truck ignition coils ( with the heat sinks ) aem 24-1 trigger disk it does also have an iacv - the factory pwm one it also has a gm flex fuel sensor gm iat sensor using this file, we were able to get the car to start and run for about 20 seconds or so before it died. it took alot of cranking to get the timing set etc. before we got to that point, and the starter was simply to hot to make a second try at starting the engine. do you see any major issues with why the motor would want to not start? one thing i belive i noticed, but cannot figure out how to change is the load axis on the timing map seems to not go lower than 0psi. thank you again for your incredible help! 7_8_17 3.53pm - working triggers_ base timing set_fuel and ign active - running.pclr
  10. sadly, now we cannot get the motor to crank without having pclink losing connection while cranking. it is extremely frustrating. it can be confirmed that the ecu is getting power during cranking and solid ground. however, this problem does seem to correlate with a hot starter. i'm not sure if that is relevant or not., but once the starter gets warm from repeated cranking, the ecu to laptop connection becomes much more fickle. is there any base maps available, just to get the car idling. obviously not to be driven under load on. just to get the car to start and check for leaks.
  11. i am humbled to admit that upon further inspection, the wiring to the cas was inverted. now that i have fixed that, i have been able to achieve signal 1 and 2 and they are good clean signals, and i've also set the base timing - using the starter with the plugs removed is there a base map available to help me get this to start? the closest we have gotten was a few backfires. any help would be greatly appreciated.
  12. This is very helpful! I read through all 5o+ pages of forum posts last night and found similar settings. I can't wait to get to the shop to test them out. Thank you so much! I will reply with updated information!
  13. Thank you! If you don't mind my asking, is there a typical "starting point" for the 24-1 wheel, as far as trigger setting go? Any frequently overlooked settings I should look for? Thanks again
  14. I will take a look tomorrow. I've left the shop for the day. Is there any recommendations as to weather I use the factory Nissan cas disk or the Aem 24-1 disk? And which one would it be easier to setup with? Thank you so much for your quick response!
  15. Hi, I am having some major issues with my ecu and or cas. I have not been able to achieve any signal of any sort from my cas. I have checked the pin outs against the extreme wiring harnes, as well as the pinout for the cas. They match perfectly. I've tried switching the signal wires, it made no difference. I've also continuity tested the wires to make sure they are running to the ecu, and they are, to the proper locations. i have an Aem 24-1 cas disk, I've tried about 30 times but unsuccessful in setting up i have tried the optical 360 setup now over 50 different times to no avail. This led me to purchasing a second distributor / cas that made no difference. The ecu cannot see a signal from either sensor. i have tried plugging the spare sensor in, and rotating it by hand while viewing the traces and accidentally touched the bottom gear of the distributor to ground (intake manifold) and the iacv went insane and buzzed for ~5 seconds or so. This issue happens every time you Touch the gear to ground. The picture i atatched is the is the closest thing I could get for a signal from the cam sensor. I should add, I drove the car into the sip a year ago on that same sensor using an Aem v1. So I'm hesitating to suspect sensor failure. Thank you in advance for any insight or advice!
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