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SacramentoTech

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SacramentoTech last won the day on August 29 2017

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  1. and apparently, if you have upstream wideband sensors, you will need to disable them. I will post up a revised file when I complete mine
  2. mine is setup for Quad VVT (RevUp) so if you has a regular DE with only VVT on intake, you will need to change that config for yours.
  3. Yes, I am running ID1050's. I am still working on the map, but I have it running beautifully up to about 5psi right now. I am stuck at wastegate spring pressure until I get the AUX output figured for the boost solenoid. Who knew that only 9 outputs would work for the boost solenoid, and 7 of them are setup to mandatory devices, or are part of an extra harness to buy. Go figure. LMAO Once I have my basemap complete and dyno tuned, I will add in the flex fuel tune then too. For now, just 91 octane at 14psi is my goal. Keep in mind... I am using the OEM wideband sensors to calibrate the base numbers. You may run a little rough at first, but it will smooth out in 20 seconds or so, and purr like a kitten. Also, I have done nothing for the bottom end, and I am running high compression. Neither of these facts will help in a supercharged setup. Please stay outta boost till you have it properly configured. I accept no liability. G35 QuadVVT ID1050 boost.pclr
  4. Well, I'd like to start off by saying sorry for being such a duma$$... Next, I'd like to thank those that worked with me finding things to try and get my car to run... It runs now... Apparently you can't FULLY trust an FSM, even straight from the manufacturer. I followed the directions for installing the cam sprockets, but the RevUp information is very limited... The images specifically tell you to install the exhaust cam gear 180 off. lol. So I did. After taking it all apart, I realized my error. Got it corrected, reassembled it all, then forgot one stupid hidden ground wire so I had no spark again. Fixed that, now she runs super smooth... Can't wait to get the burn in done and get on the road!
  5. OK, so after the first and only attempt to start it with the new map, after that backfire, I have no signal from ECU to fuel pump relay now. I can get the pump to flow manually by bypassing the relay, but key on, crank, etc doesn't turn the pump on at all. ***EDIT*** It is definitely the ECU not sending the signal. Once I connect the OEM ECU, and turn the key on, the fuel pump primes as it is supposed to. Is there a way to test the fuel pump output on the 350ZLink? Nevermind that part. I found that Aux11 wasn't set to a fuel pump output, I changed that, and the pump is operating like normal... tho it seems I still have no spark.
  6. making progress... with the new map sent to me... I got a nice hearty backfire out of it... but then the fuel pump shut off and won't prime anymore. Gonna figure that out, then continue on with the process.
  7. this was the map before I reset it to factory, and recalibrated the sensors. before reset.pclr taken just now
  8. I decided to try a compare between my existing settings and that of a stock 350Z base map. Is there a reason my e-throttle table would be all zeroed out? and would that effect my no start issue? And my Idle Ignition Control was turned on, where the base map has it turned off? Could THAT be an issue? Every other variance makes sense... Fuel cuz I changed to modelled running 1050cc injectors. E-throttle cuz I did the calibration already from the default values. Anti-theft cuz I turned off the NATS request. ***EDIT*** In changing stuff back to match OE settings, I recall changing Analog Input AN12 from GP to off. I was getting a high voltage error on that input, but couldn't determine if it controlled anything, so I just disabled it. I also noticed there is no default input setup for the oil pressure sensor?
  9. Yep, and just did it again to re-verify. All 6 fire as they should. What if I just reset the ECU back to factory settings, import a new base map, set my triggers as they should be, and go from there? At this point, can't hurt, right?!
  10. another question I have is about MAP/MAF sensors. Obviously the OEM setup is to use the MAF. I plan on using the onboard MAP instead. By default, the AN input is set to AN9. Is this correct to use the onboard MAP sensor; and if it is, why don't I ever see a drop in psi while cranking? Even with a 100rpm speed, it should be causing a low level vacuum condition. Also, there is no AN input setup for the MAF sensor. I would assume this is ok, since the MAP will be used, but I just wanna verify this and check it off my mental list. I have zero readings from the MAF parameter, which makes sense since it is not setup on an input. I am getting fuel, so I doubt any of this is a concern, but it was on my mind, so I thought I would ask. ***EDIT*** So as to not sound like an idiot... I read the manual for the ECU and walked myself through the MAF, MAP, IAT and trigger setup stuff. This verified all the questions I just asked about inputs. I was going to also ask if I can remove the MAF sensor... But seeing as it is used for the IAT sensor, I will scratch that idea for now. The question still remains though about the pressure not dropping while cranking.
  11. OK, so now I am just beating my head on a wall... The ring gear looks damn near perfect, so I filed it a bit, cleaned up a rough edge... That cleaned up the trigger signal. YAY! still no spark. I am at a loss here, and at your mercy. I even went so far as to plug in the OEM ECU and try to start the car from that.... knowing full and well it would flood out rich due to the larger injectors. Still no spark. The only thing at this point that is any different is now I am using the OEM trigger 1 leads from the main harness. I doubt that is an issue since the scope clearly shows the triggers being read. I have tried with pullup on and off on trigger2. Tried it with rising and falling edge. Verified all sensors are OEM. Tried different filter levels. Verified all power and ground connections are secure, clean and tight. Verified voltage and ground at the coils. Even tried to cause random errors, which all registered correctly. best yet, still no dpsrk log.llg
  12. The sensors installed are all OEM, and have been on the car for just short of 50k miles. All test good as per the fsm. The flywheel is a lightweight one made by AASCO, and is definitely not lacking in quality. As mentioned before tho, the ring gear may have sustained minor damage when it was stored while the motor was being rebuilt. I will take the CKP out again and try to find the issues causing the janky signal. I am hoping once that is corrected, everything will fire up with ease.
  13. Pics for reference on the APS piggyback. The unit had it's own shielded wire that ran to the crank sensor. The only wires I haven't pulled yet are the ones for the boost control solenoid. As you can see, the OEM EFI harness is installed straight to the LinkECU with no further modifications. Vacuum line runs thru the firewall to the manifold. Once the car is running, I will mount everything in place as it should be. To point out again... with no settings changes whatsoever, this ECU plugged in to the piggyback, then to the same EFI harness still in use, the car started fine. Nothing has changed in the ways of the cam sensors, crank sensors, or wiring, with the exception of using the OEM wiring for the crank sensor now, instead of the shielded one from the piggyback.
  14. ***EDIT*** Off the wall question.... In the help files, the arming voltage of a trigger should be set to half the lowest peak value, correct?? If I am SUPPOSED to be seeing 5v readings, it would be sensible for the arming voltage to be set at the 1.48v (rough estimate from memory)... Tho a little low if aiming for half of 5V, I could see that being relevant. HOWEVER, as it was noted, I am seeing just under 10V on my triggers. Should I be changing my arming voltage to something closer to 4.5V? I am noticing that with or without trigger1 error counter registering errors, I AM showing engine speed now, but I am NOT getting the ECCS sync to flag YES. Is it as simple as my trigger2 is not "arming" the pulse, and syncing the cam to the crank? or would this only matter in a reluctor type trigger?
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