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Hi there. What is the best AFR for a 3SGE Beams with ITB Throttles. I have attached my tune and my logfile. The log file is long from a drive yesterday but the last 10 mins of the drive would be good to look at. The engine is stock except for the ITBs and headers and a free flowing exhaust. I am measuring it with a Link Canlambda at the front in the 4 into 1 collector. My fuel tune is with TPS on one axis on the table and and RPM on the other. The car is running nice. At the moment I am targeting the below: Between 1% - 7% TPS, I target lambda 1. Between 11% - 25% TPS I target Lambda 0.96 Between 25% - 60% TPS I target Lambda 0.96 Between 60% - 80% TPS I target Lambda 0.85 Between 80% - 100 TPS I target Lambda 0.82 The car get driven on the road but also does get leaned on a certain amount. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Here is a link to my tune file and my log file. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16HqT0LDh4miKGNDF4NnclxbOKekbZ-9p?usp=share_link Kind Regards Rex The ecu is a Link G4+ Storm Blue. Engine is Toyota 3sge beams with ITBs. Injectors are standard.

I run ITB throttles on the beams 3sge. That is why I have tuned the mainfuel table with Throttle Position as the main axis and not MAP. When you say "because you have the Fuel equation load source set to BAP" and "you must use MAP as the equation load source" are you saying I should charge my main fuel map axis to map and not throttle position or are you speaking of another table for example a cold start table? I guess after spending heaps of hours getting the main fuel map nice I am slow to want to change it. Is there a way I can use the air bypass valve and control it by time. For example for the first 2 mins that the engine is running idle at 1200 and then after that close and I could have the idle bypass screw that is part of the pwm valve set to a base idle of 850 rpm? Is there a better way to do the cold start warmup idle with ITBs than useing a air bypass valve? By the way you are right on the money in everything you are saying. I turned off the closed loop and ran it and all the stalling and going lean stopped when I test drove it tonight. Here is tonights tune file and the log file from 1 hour of running. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11rDDMBL-RuJhqSo3C8x-rGV1vhxEPNY4?usp=share_link Thanks heaps. Rex Engine is: Toyota 3sge beams. ITB throttles with combined manifold below with a vacume hose going to the ecu. ECU: Link G4+ storm blue.

When I start my car and leave it warming up without touching the throttle a strange thing happens. It runs nice for a while and about 1 to 2 mins in, the car idle control valve (Nissan two wire type) sounds like it opens to a much higher opening level and the car goes lean on the can lambda reading and seconds later the engine revs up by itself and stalls. I think I have something wrong in one of my tables. Any ideas what is causing this? 2nd question: When I am reversing out of the garage, when I start to apply a little throttle pressure I hear the idle air device cut the air flow quite a lot and then when I return the throttle to fully closed it takes a while to respond and send a pwm signal to get the air device to open and do the job of keeping the car at it's warmup idle target. Is there a way to have the idle air device respong quicker? Can you see anything I could change in my tune file that would make it not do the above? Here is a google drive link with my log file and my tune file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jxH-hgXk1LJgrQgzpcJ0Yo2fWoZgMDcs?usp=share_link My setup is: LinkG4+ Storm Blue. Engine is Toyota 3sge beams with itbs. The itbs have four large hoses going to a combined vacume manifold which has a nissan type of Idle air device on it with a adjusting screw that does the base idle bypass. Thanks for your help. Kind Regards Rex

I have the link Ecu logging enabled. I have maybe 15 items at at 10hz. I went for a drive for 45min.turned off the car. The started it and took a friend for a 7 min drive. When I downloaded the on board ecu log there was only 7 minutes worth of logging. Does it only keep logging from the last key on event? Any idea why this has happened? When the onboard log memory is full does it automatically overwrite of is there a check box that needs to be set for this to happen? If I bring up real-time values it says memory is full. Does this mean it is full as normal and is slowly overwriting new log data? Here is a google drive link with my log file and my tune file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1PSkgjvUzi-73CSR9ZBwLT3R5QRIqrluw?usp=share_link My Ecu is Link G4+blue storm. Engine is 3sge beams with itb's.

I have good news. I got a new CanLambda sensor from Ross at Top Tune and as soon as I connected it the CanLambda started working. I think I caused it from running miixtures at time as rich as 9:1. Thanks for all the help to fix the wiring at test it with a special tune file.

Hi there. Today I got up early and drove for 25min and 30 seconds. I live in Taranaki and I was driving way out in the country. At the time stated I came to a rural tunnel. It was long and dark. I reached for the headlights and turned them on. Instantly the engine cut out. I was still logging. I turned the lights off. Rolled backwards a few meters out of the tunnel cranked the motor with no success for the first attempt. Soon it started and I turned the lights on again and i completed the journey to home. Can you help me understand my log file? What caused the engine to stop? Why would the headlights do this. Everything is on a relay.Why does the log file say 37,000rpm and other crazy rpm amounts? Here is a link with: 1. The Log file. 2. The ECU tune file https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1IltJ1ti2NTVznaOOgC695EcwBIsvunkh?usp=sharing As always a big thank you to all for your help. Kind Regards Rex Car is a Lotus 7. Engine is a Toyota 3sge Beams with ITB throttles. Ecu: Link G4+ Storm.

Hi there. I have just finished loading the Lambda test1.pclr file in the car. We connected a full stand alone car battery to the canlambda positive and ground wires. We started the logging and logged 30 seconds with keyon and engine not running. We then proceeded to start the engine and ran the car for 30 seconds. Here is a google drive link with two files. 1. the Lambda test1.pclr 2. the small log file as asked for. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1aLQyf9F9UFVHH9SbF7X-DesOd91yAkEa?usp=sharing I talked to Ross Honor who sold me the Canlambda and he said he can supply me with another sensor as he has them in stock. I look forward to hearing of your findings from the log file. There were times in the past that I was running very rich. Perhaps that may have damaged the sensor. Thanks Rex

I have a Link Canlamba that is less than 6 months old. It stopped working on a drive about 1hour in. Today I took a fuly charged battery out of another vehicle and connected only the positive and ground of the Canlamba to it. I still was not able to make the Canlamba work. The errors that I get are: Lambd 33 Open Circuit APE-IPE and Lambda1 16 Heated Too Long. Here is a Google Drive Link with my files in it: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Mc3a_psZyZqHoMOTv65HOFubXjeHPKlE?usp=sharing Included in the Google Drive link are: 1. Tune file 2. Log file i made during testing 3. Picture of runtime values showing all green 4. Picture of runtime valuse showing: Lambd 33 Open Circuit APE-IPE 5. Picture of runtime values showing: Lambda1 16 Heated Too Long Here is a youtube video that I made to explain things: I have checked the polarity (excuse the red wire in the video being used as a ground.) Within PC Link the Canlamba detects just fine. My setup is: Toyota 3sge Beams with ITB throttles. Link G4+ Storm Blue. What do you think is causing this? Do you think the sensor has Bosch sesor has gone bad? Is there anything else that I can do to test? Thanks heaps. Rex

Today I drove for 45min to Purangi way out in the country. The can lambda worked perfectly all the way. I stopped and saved the logfile. I then started the car and and there was no can lambda. I drove a long way home with no can lambda. When I got home I sat in the drive and tested the can lambda. I went to the file menu and can setup. I made a video of what I saw. Didnt seem what I did the can lambda did not start working. I made a logfile of my testing in the drive at home with the engine running. During this testing I unplugged and replugged the sensor from the lambda controller, then I unplugged and replugged the 4 pin power plug to the controller. It seems I loose can lambda when I stop with everything hot, then start the car to head home. Any ideas why this is happening? Is it a temperature lockout on the sensor? Is it a map lockout. Here is a google drive link to 4 files: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16NTvKv877mB4Rei_bqt7GIQMG9A9ZR2D?usp=sharing The files are 1. The tune file. 2. The log file with can lambda working all the way to Purangi. 3. The log with the can lambda not working all the way from Purangi to home. 4. The log file in my drive way testing the can lambda. Here is a video of me doing the test in my drive at home and what I tried and what I could see: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5a5SGyxtjH2fnCVu8 The engine is a 3sge beams with itb throttles. The ecu is a Link G4+ blue storm. The can lambda is a Link Can Lambda. Thanks Rex

I am still a little suck. I have made a GP Rpm Limit but it looks different to your picture. Here is a google drive link with a picture and my tune file in it. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RuXipkSxHfjgSnDWOfyFMLllImdN3Zc8?usp=sharing Questions: Why when I go to axis setup on the top of the table can i only see: engine speed. Your picture on the top of the axis says GP RPM Limit. Is this because yours picture is from a g4x and mine is a g4+? Or have a programed somehing wrong? Thanks for your help. Kind Regards Rex.

I have installed a new oil pressure sensor. It reads on average 460kpa when driving. When I stop the motor and moments later the manual orange light on the dash of the car comes on the link is reporting the oil pressure at 60kpa. What I want is to have the ecu programmed in the engine protection area to cut ignition if the oil pressure drops below 60kpa when driving. Can you help me program this in? Can we have it so there is a delay. I.e when it is cranking it would be nice to have spark before it reaches 60kpa. Here is a google drive link with my tune file and a current log file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1s7HLvk_nMzjlg0HG2_RvO8hxJ6RzYmV9?usp=sharing The car runs a dry sump pump and tank. It idles at about 300kpa and drives at about 450kpa. The engine is a 3sge beams with itb throttles. The ecu is a Link g4+blue storm. Thanks for your help. Rex

Hi there. We have lost vvt. It happened when we were making changes like connecting the start position and we moved a few Digital Inputs to other channels. The power is down on the engine. The vvt in the log is not working. Prior to this the vvt on the inlet would advance to 47 degrees. Can you see what we have done wrong and why the vvt is not working? Here is a google drive link with 4 items in it: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1s7HLvk_nMzjlg0HG2_RvO8hxJ6RzYmV9?usp=sharing 1. Tune file. 2. Small logfile showing VVT not working. 3. A historical photo of of a log file when vvt was working. 4. A current picture of VVT log showing it not working. The ecu is a Link G4+ storm blue. The engine is a Toyota 3sge beams with itb throttles. Thanks. Rex

Hi again. With a 3sge beams with itb's and being used for a daily driver what lambda should I be aiming for? In my minds eye I thought maybe: point 85 at wot and Lambda 1 at light throttle and Lambda 1 at idle. Any advice. I'm turning by tps over revs.

Hi there. I drove for an hour and a half today out on country roads. I logged the whole time. The engine under wot did some hard cutting. It only happened when I was wot and under signifant load. It was not a small missfire on one cyinder it was a full cut like hitting a 180km/h speed cut on a honda. It completely cuts for more than a second and when I let off and then get straight back to wot all is ok again. Here is my log file and ecu tune file: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JK0vpQXujL1-u2tSTPc2vc21ksIOXTsr?usp=sharing (Files included: 1. Logfile - look at last 90seconds of it. 2. My ecu tune file) Can you have a look at the last 90 seconds of this file. I was on a straight country road. I did several wot hard pulls in that 90 seconds. It hard cut no where near the rev limiter. Actually when I looked over on one hard cut it was 4500rpm. I then proceeded to pull over and straight away save the log file. Questions: 1. Can you have a look at the log file and tell me if you can see the issue I have? 2. Could it be that it is hard cutting because I have a map max level protection set? 3. Could it be low fuel level? The tank is well baffled and I thought there was enough fuel in it. 4. Could it be a loose wire? Last thoughts. I did not have my oil pressure sensor connected. Thanks for your help. I so appreciate the work you guys do to support this great product. Rex Ecu is a Link G4+ Storm Blue. The engine is a Toyota 3sge Beams with ITB throttles. It has a combined manifold for map that is under the throttles and the 4 hoses going to the manifold are 10mm in diamater. The map for the ecu comes from this manifold.

Hi there. When I use quicktune can I leave Closed Loop lambda turned on? Or does i need to turn it off? Thanks Rex