Jenno007

Totally forgot about the firmware! Okay so I updated it and then did two logs. One with the ethrottle as it has always been, and one with the ethrottle set to 0. Setting the ethrottle to 0 doesn't do the idle any favours, it makes it really bad. With log 1, the idle is good but it still tries to stall when I give the throttle a blip Log 2, this is worse than log 1. Doesn't idle well. Can't stress how much I appreciate the help guys! Firmware update - log 1.llg firmware update - log 2 ethrottle set to 0.llg map for log 1.pclr map for log 2.pclr

Okay, so I made the changes in two stages. Firstly I changed the timing and ran the car, then I kept the timing changes and made the PID setting changes and ran the car again. From just the timing changes, I thought this had fixed the car, the idle was very good. But then it stalled again, the only time it stalled is when the rev's hanged for a few seconds, then just dropped. Refer to log 1 attached Once I made the PID changes, the idle was terrible. Bouncing up and down nonstop even when I didn't touch the throttle. I have attached log 2 and the map showing the changes I made, perhaps I made the changes incorrectly? Really appreciate the help guys. 1.llg 2.llg allchangesmadeidlestillnotgood.pclr

Thank you for the reply cj. I will try your suggestions tonight. I must say I'm rather disappointed that I've taken the car to two different dyno tuners here in Perth, one that specialised with link ecu's and the car has never run great (aside from onboost). I will play around with what you suggested, however does link offer any remote tuning services (obviously don't mind paying), if I can't manage to get this right myself?

Okay I literally only had 2 minutes with the car tonight, and I made the changes you suggested, however I haven't had time to update the firmware. I will do that tomorrow. But from the changes made, I couldn't select the speed lockout as you mentioned the firmware is old, but I could change the other settings. The idle was much improved, however if I touched the throttle the engine would rev (seemed way more responsive), it would then hold the revs for a matter of seconds, and then drop all the way down and try to stall. The first couple of times it did stall but from the log I've attached it didn't quite stall. A step in the right direction but something still isn't right. I noticed on my AFR that it went very lean when it almost stalled. changesmade.llg

Another question with this. Say I coast above 2kph (If I'm lazy and put the car into neutral rather than down shifting before coming to a stop) will the 2kph lock out impact this negatively at all?

Thank you very much for your help. I will update this when I next get time (most likely tomorrow) and report back. Thanks

Quick summary: Car runs on e85 with large injectors, I believe this is the cause for the poor idle. Had the car retuned to compensate for the injector low pulse width data previously, still not 100% The problem: Idle does jump around a little, I don't expect a factory idle but I would like to try and improve it as much as possible. Main problem is when I rev the engine when it returns to idle it goes far below. Idle is set to around 1200rpm and it goes down as low as 700rpm. When the car is fully warmed it doesn't go as low, probably only to 1000rpm or so. Log attached at approx 60 degrees which I believe should be warm enough for the car to run great. Also, the idle is set for 1300-1200 rpm but it never hits these figures and I'm unsure why. If anyone could give me a list of things to try to improve the idle and stop it dropping so low when I rev the engine, that would be fantastic. Alternatively, if this requires detailed tuning and you know of someone who can remotely tune the car (just the idle) I'm all ears! Thank you! poor returning to idle.llg idlesokay.pclr

Made the changes and I've got the desired effect! Sounds great. Thanks for the help. Throttle response seems to be a little worse but I'm happy to pay that price as it's a very laggy car anyway (no boost until 3.5k) Two quick questions: Q1. have I taken too much timing out at high rpm? I've only tried it from 3000rpm down to 2000rpm and it sounds great Q2. some of the pops are a little loud like a backfire, if I take some fuel out I'm hoping that will fix it a little. Any suggestions on how much I would lower the fuel values, and what region (difference between MGP vs MAP as I understand will be the atmos pressure?) Thanks

Thanks Simon. The 4d table sounds a little complex for my knowledge so I might just take your advice regarding using this table. I guess I just take some logs to see what the MAP is at light throttle vs 0 throttle so I know what cells to adjust in the table. Would it be disastrous if I had -ve timing whilst I am light throttle? Just incase I get it wrong at first.

I also note when my car was tuned, the timing is dependent upon MAP, not throttle %. If I change the axis and alter the throttle position settings, I believe that would mess up the timing for all other conditions? Seems I may not be able to do this without a professional retuning the timing? I'm hoping I'm wrong...

Thank you Adam. Could you advise a reasonable starting point, and a figure you wouldn't want to go past? Or is this fairly safe from an engine point of view. Cheers!

Hi guys, Another thread regarding retarding timing on overrun. I have a car that has been professionally tuned and is running great, however I would like to have a little play around with getting the "rally car" pops and crackles on overrun. The car is very rarely street driven (very rarely driven), and I understand the accelerated wear on the exhaust + cat. The car currently has the overrun fuel cut turned off (does induce a little bucking around 1500 rpm in first but I just put the car into neutral before coming to a stop to avoid this). Having the fuel on overrun made no difference to the exhaust note so I'm hoping if I retard the timing that will have the desired affect. I'm just wondering the best way to do this. If I have a big difference in timing from 0% throttle (eg -10deg) to the next increment in the ecu, say 5% throttle (eg 10deg), will that have any undesired affects? I thought I would ask here before I play around. Cheers

You sir are a genius. I tried all of the changes you recommended CJ but unfortunately they didn't work, feeling defeated I put everything back to standard and made the changes to the injectors as Adamw recommended and the idle is near perfect! Throttle response is so much better as well, before it was terrible but now it's great and the car drives so much better. I can't believe I have driven with the car the way I had it for over a year. As you can see from the log the timing is still very low but the car idles much better. Any suggestions of other things to change? I am very happy with how the car idles now, but if anyone notices any glaring problems I'm all ears. updated injectors.llg

The difference in values could be due to the fact that I use a 3bar FPR and the table is for 4bar? I don't think I will play with these settings as it's probably best left for someone who knows what they are doing and I certainly do not haha. At least I can give the table to the tuner. I'm not sure why there is a LG1 in the ecu as my innovate wideband O2 is not wired into the ECU at all and was never intended to be. The ecu has its separate O2 sensor which is the factory sensor. It's a shame that ECU isn't picking up this sensor, I will investigate that tonight. The ECU is a plug in ecu, no additional wiring was done apart from a switch to change between high boost and low boost, the flex fuel sensor and the AIT sensor. All was done by the tuner. Given some cars which use this engine only have narrowband O2 sensors, maybe the ECU is setup to accommodate all models of the 20v 1.8t? I wonder if it is picking up the O2 sensor somewhere but just doesn't know what sensor it is?

With cj's reply earlier, he seemed to think it was due to the VVT constantly turning on and off? Given this is a very simple fix I will turn off the VVT completely (or change it to activate at 2500 just to completely rule it out), and see if this fixes my problem. The data means absolutely nothing to me, but I will give it to my tuner when I take the car back for a health check (and for him to fix the idle if I can't). Thanks for linking it. I will try disabling the VVT first thing tonight and I'm really hopeful this fixes the problem. I'm slightly worried that the ECU isn't picking up the wideband so it cannot be making any fueling adjustments.

Little more background, the car has a wideband o2 sensor from factory, and a plug and play ecu. So I would have hoped the ecu knew it had a wideband o2 sensor. Not sure what an LC1 configured in the ECU means, I do have a wideband on my dash but it isn't wired into the ecu. The car does have reasonably aggressive cams. I will disable the VVT tonight and see how it goes. Given it will only take out a little bit of power up to approx 5500, I'm not overly concerned. If I simply disable the VVT, could this throw out the fueling & timing? Given the amount invested in this car I'm going to call the tuner today and get them to fix it and do a full health check but I still like tinkering with it myself. Hi Adam, the injectors are Injector Dynamic ID2000. They are a bit overkill but when I purchased them the ID1600 weren't available and ID1000 wouldn't be enough for the power I'm chasing on e85. At they time they assured me these would idle fine on a 2L 4cyl engine, especially on e85. So I'm hoping this isn't the problem!

The car has only seen approx 1000km in this time, but I do intend on doing a health check. I will call and book it in today. Thanks for all your help!

I followed your advise and did the following: Switched to open idle ethrottle and disabled ignition idle control. I didn't change anything else and attached is a log. It idles different, probably smoother but still jumps around a lot. It automatically adjusted the throttle body % and the timing seems more reasonable. Looking at my AFR gauge they did jump around a little. Strange that the ecu doesn't show me AFR, maybe I don't know where to look. Any ideas as to why it's still jumping around a lot? I really appreciate the help! Log 2017-09-27 9;05;38 pm.llg

I'm definitely going to try what you advised in your previous post as I feel this could be the culprit as I saw the timing jump all over the place during the idle. Given when I unplugged the VVT it couldn't idle at all (just kept almost stalling), I feel that it plays some part, but I think if I increase the timing and decrease throttle as you advised it will help. Should this fail I'll be taking it back to the tuner regardless but would like to try fix this myself if I can.

Thank you for your help I will try this tonight! I think I have resolved the boost control, it just required very high figures in the gear wastegate trim which I was unsure if that was normal. But I will take the car to the dyno sooner rather than later to make sure all AFRs and timing is correct. This car has the exact same engine as the Audi TT. Given the previous response I will follow his instructions to see if I can get the idle smoother. I may also adjust the cam to switch at say 1500rpm to ensure this doesn't happen at idle, unless that will cause other sorts of problems?

Thanks for the reply, The car does make 28psi in 5th gear with the current wastegate duty as seen from the attached dyno sheet. Only problem is the boost is quite a lot lower in 2nd gear and 3rd gear. Really I'm just wondering if 32% is too high of a figure in the gear trim. I will probably take the car to the dyno again for a health check to make sure all AFRs etc are okay.

Thank you for the reply! Could you please advise how I go about this, is it as simple as turning off the VVT? As far as I know, the VVT for my car only has two settings on and off, (car is Audi S3 8L). Is it possible to make the VVT only kick in after a certain rpm? As I'm having no issues after say 2000rpm. I hope this is the cause of the jerkyness I'm experiencing on light throttle.

Hi guys, I got my car tuned professionally and I will likely be taking it back to get some touch ups unless there someone here identifies a simple fix. The car idles quite poorly, it constantly goes up and down from 900-1300rpm. Also on light throttle it struggles to rev (this is especially bad when cold on e85). I've attached a log. One thing to note, timing is all over the place AND something that I feel could be the culprit, the VVT is constantly turning on and off which seems to be causing this problem. The log is from a cold start (20 degrees) on about e50. If it's a more complex issue of fueling I will simply take it back to the tuner but hoping to save some time and $$. Thanks Log 2017-09-26 9;22;37 pm.llg ecu26092017.pclr I just unplugged the VVT and the car idles really badly, almost stalls. So I really think this has something to do with it. Surely VVT shouldn't be turning on and off at idle?

Here is the ecu file. Turbo GTX3071r Wastegate 39mm The picture shows how it is plumbed. Top goes to boost controller, bottom goes to charge pipe. I really don't want you to waste your time going too in depth, more just a simple yes or no whether its unreasonable to have such high values as I have to achieve the boost. I've checked for boost leaks with a smoke leak detector so I know that's not the issue. Really appreciate it, Thanks ecu26092017.pclr

I will send a copy of the calibration tonight - The spring pressure is around 15psi, but the car has made 30psi on the dyno without problem, so the boost controller doesn't have a problem bleeding off air. I haven't got any logs but will try get some when we get some dry weather. My main concern is whether it is unusual to be setting those wastegate duty trims so high?