Get someone to take your car for a short drive with you in the passenger seat with your laptop. Open the ignition table and turn on the snake trails, these will show you the cells that the engine travels through during the last few seconds of operation, watch it during overrun and you will have a pretty good idea of which cells you need to adjust and if they are ever close to being accessed during normal driving.
As Iceman_n says, your VVT config looks a little odd considering the first couple google results suggest these engines have variable cams and not on/off. That being said, your idle fluctuations are not (entirely) caused by this. Only around 1 in 5 idle "cycles" is getting to a high enough RPM to have the cam switching kick in. The majority of your idle issues look to be related to how idle ignition timing is set up. Because your throttle opening at idle is set quite high at around 6%, the idle timing is set quite aggressively to attempt to pull your idle down to the 1100 its being asked for - ie instead of ~15deg at idle like a production car typically has, youre running about 5, and because there is so much air being allowed in by the throttle, when the idle control moves it from 5 to 7 degrees to try bring you idle up 100rpm or so, its overshooting and bumping it up by 300. Then the reverse happens, repeatedly. You also have closed loop ethrottle control enabled which i've seen cause something similar when not correctly tuned, but it looks like the throttle position barely moves anyway. To verify this is the problem, try changing closed loop idle ethrottle to open loop idle ethrottle and see if this helps. Next thing is to disable ignition idle control and check again. Expect your idle RPM to jump up quite a lot when doing this as 7% throttle at idle is quite a lot. If this stabilises the idle (but at too high a number), try lowering the numbers in your idle throttle % table until you get idle close to what you want. You may also need to lower the numbers in the top row of your ethrottle target if you get the idle numbers to 0 and its still idling too high. Once you've got the idle about where you want it in open loop, try turning on closed loop and ignition idle again. You will probably need to adjust the idle ignition numbers a bit so that the 0 error column has roughly the same number as your main ignition table at idle. This may also help your just off idle response too. At the moment its having to jump ignition angle and throttle posistion quite a lot between where it idles and where it needs to be at light throttle
FYI this is mostly all in the help files under idle control. Have a read of that section.
Based on this thread and your thread about boost control issues, I would assume that you need to take the car back to the tuner. From my quick search, this should basically be the same motor as the audi tt with the 20v 1.8T motor. If that is the case, then this is a simple on/off cam control. And if the idle is fluctuating from 800-1300rpm then yes the cam will switch back and forth continuously. The mapper has the cam switch whenever the rpm is between 1200 and 5200 rpm.
