Scott C

Honda NSX manual 24tooth.pclr I have this cal you can use for reference

When you connect to the ecu you'd see "Password Protection Activated" in the top right corner of the window and you won't see any values in any of your tables or settings.

Anything 0-5 volt can work. 10-BAR is a good range for fuel and oil pressure.

Will need something that outputs 0-5v or CAN Fury, Thunder, and Force are the only models with internal lambda control.

Look into a crydom, hella, or jaycar solid state relay and use an Aux Out as a GP PWM to control the pump as you'd like. Some info in this thread:

No, the latest generation of the Evo 8 plug-ins have the required auxiliary outputs located in the expansion ports of the ecu (aux 9 & 10). An XS Loom would be required, but not an external controller or module.

no, that feature is for mechanical gauges/tachs on an Aux Output

ECU Settings > Idle Speed Control > Idle Base Position Table / Idle Target RPM Table

While it's cranking you can check the Triggers / Limits tab in runtimes (F12) to verify the ecu isn't cutting ignition while cranking (Engine Protection box). You can also verify that you're getting crank & cam triggers & accurate rpm at the ecu on the same tab. From your description, I'd check the underhood ignition fuses if everything in software checks out.

You are correct, they are compatible.

You are correct. The Xtreme is the most economical ecu with ethrottle control.

The G4 Storm had an on-board MAP sensor so I presume this is a vacuum hose going to it. Getting dirty oil in there definitely isn't good and could cause the sensor to eventually mis-read or fail. If you can't rectify the source of the oil (could be aggressive cams, worn valve seals, pcv, etc.), you should at least run a small in-line vacuum filter to prevent any more oil from going into the sensor. Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/HKS-4599-RA017-Mini-Vacuum-Filter/dp/B000ECLHNI/ref=sr_1_18?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1530895981&sr=1-18&keywords=mini+vacuum+hose+filter

It's changed to just "Ethanol Sensor" now. Available on DI's 1 through 8. Your Conti sensor is OK.

There is, Adam made up this example: In this example, the Transbrake solenoid (connected via a SS Relay) is connected to Aux 1. The transbrake button is connected to DI1 - you can also use this same DI as activation for your two step limiter etc. The Bump button is connected to DI2. These buttons would be one side connected to ground, other side to the DI. When just the Transbrake button is "on", Aux 1 will be working in the lefthand cell of the aux table and output a 100% duty cycle to the solenoid (i.e fully locked). If you hit the bump button, the aux will jump to the righthand cell in the aux table and give a smaller duty cycle for the length of time set in the "virtual aux 1". The only settings you should need to experiment with are the Vitrual aux "Timer 1 <" setting and the right hand cell in the aux table. I hope I have explained what these two settings do ok with the note on the picture.

Nice car! The hose is for the on-board 4-bar MAP sensor. Just run a vacuum/boost reference from the intake manifold direct to the ecu and you don't need to add a map sensor to the engine. The cable you're holding up is the tuning cable lead. The CUSB cable attaches to that (should have been included with the ecu) so you can connect to your laptop. http://dealers.linkecu.com/CUSB_2