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BulletFactory

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  1. Many thanks for all the replies! Just one last quick question, how do i setup logging so i can see it live on a graph like CJ said so i can see TP main and APS main voltages? I've managed to set it up so i can take a log, then have to open it and can view it afterwards, is there any way i can log it on a window so i can view it live, then obviously i can make changes to the PIDs and see the changes taking effect? I tweaked the PIDs and my throttle target table last night, i started by doing the auto calibration on the APS and TPS, then played with the PIDs until the APS main and TPS
  2. So my initial throttle fault was before i got the vehicle mapped and it was when i was initially wiring everything up and getting things to work before mapping. I had my TPS sub and main to different inputs, and my AP sub and main to different inputs, but whenever i tried the auto calibration of both it would always fail on the TPS calibration when comparing sub and mains, i played around with the PIDS for around 4 hours to try get it to calibrate but it wouldn't, so i wired both inputs into just the one sensor on the throttle body sensor and it calibrated straight away, so i left it this way
  3. So i managed to find factory 3uz oil pressure figures: At operating temperature it should be 43-85psi at 3000rpm. So it appears i have a possible oil restriction issue causing high oil pressure. I have remote oil filter housing, and oil cooler using AN12 lines and OEM Toyota oil filter. The engine is standard with factory oil pump etc. And seems as both gauges read the same high oil pressure, i would be fairly certain that i do actually have high oil pressure for whatever reason. Do you think the vvti oscillation could cause what would feel like a throttle fluctuation? Because when i was
  4. Hi Adam, I'm running factory oil viscosity, and i have 2 oil pressure sensors, one for the link and one for a gauge, and on full throttle i usually show around 7bar / 100psi of pressure when hot on my gauge. I know early 1uz factory oil pressure should be around 85psi when hot, so figured that 100-110psi might be standard for the later 3uz, but cannot find factory pressure specifications to confirm this. So you think my VVT oscillation is being caused by excessive oil pressure? I've put around 500 road miles and gave the engine some good abuse at my last drift day and everything seemed ok
  5. Hi CJ I don't feel confident enough with being able to change the map like that as tuning isn't my strong point, i've literally tried to learn what i can in the space of a couple of weeks to try understand whats going wrong. I understand about changing the fuel map to TPS instead of APS, but don't feel confident enough doing it myself, although i might sit down one night this week and try get my head around it and see if i can work it out. I've saved all my previous maps including the one from the tuner so i can always resort back anyway. Regarding VVTI table, would you say it's "sa
  6. Hi CJ Wow that's alot of information to take in and try and get my head around! I took my car for tuning and i've left everything as is until i had this throttle fault which i tried to rectify myself, i had to else i'd lose the whole day! My throttle Main and Sub are connected to one track as i was having issues trying to run my throttle calibration, i bridged them together and it worked fine, and was told that it should be fine like this? Trying to source another throttle body for this engine in the UK isn't easy and it's super expensive, so tried to make do. Regarding VVTI tar
  7. Hi there I have some throttle map issues i would like looking an by an expert to see if they look correct. My car got mapped around 3 months ago, its a 3uzfe 4.3L Lexus V8 on Link G4+ extreme using factory lexus e-throttle controlled by the Link. I've never been entirely happy with happy the throttle was mapped as for example, if i wanted to go wide open throttle, i never felt like the pedal needed to go past 75% as it already felt like wide open throttle, but i persevered and learned to use it that way. 3 days ago i had my first drift day, and i kept getting throttle faults and my e thro
  8. All sorted Simon, thankyou! Re-calibrated my APS and TPS and it idles perfectly now. My original TPS main was reading 5% on idle, now it's 1.2% which makes sense as it would have been holding the throttle open with the original calibration Another question for you. I want to use my oem fuel level sender to display fuel % on my link tablet dash. If i use an temp 3 with 1k pullup resistor enabled, would this be sufficient to display fuel level if worked out a cal table for it? I believe my oem sender scale is 4ohms to 120ohms Regards
  9. Thanks for the reply Simon Yes i'm monitoring everything through F12 runtime values window. I notice that on idle control it's requesting speed also, and the parameter below that "idle target?" if i remember always states -500 ish rpm and is highlighted red, but i will confirm and check this tomorrow when i'm back with the car. I figured it may be down to e throttle calibration as ive had alot of issues with getting it set up so ive been hesistant since to play around with it. I know the vvt oil control states "on" for both solenoids, but i didn't know if the ecu was act
  10. I have installed and calibrated my 1.15 link map sensor and it runs much better now, just waiting for my Innovate widebands to get here. there are two things im hoping you can help me with.. Idle control, i have changed it to E throttle closed loop idle control as i am using e throttle, but my idle is very high and sits at 1800 rpm no matter what the temperature, do you have any basic figures i can use to tune this so it doesn't idle so high. Also, VVT position, whilst running if i look at runtime values both VVT positions are just displayed as "OFF". Would this be due to my wi
  11. I have ordered the 1.15 bar link map sensor so will get that fitted this week. Does the 1uz vvti basemap already have calibration for the map sensor? Also Adam, do you think 2 AEM X series wideband sensors is ideal for V8 application in terms of tuning each bank, or will just one wideband on one bank be sufficiant? Thanks
  12. As an addition to this, i've decided to order my map and widebands today and not run it any longer until they are fitted. What Link map sensor should i go for, for naturally aspirated tuning? 2 bar? Will 2 AEM widebands be okay? One for each bank. Running 2 link can lambdas will get expensive, so looking at alternative kits now. Thanks
  13. Hi all I have my 3uzfe running off the 1uz vvti basemap on my link G4+ xtreme but its running pretty rich at the moment. I'm going to be converting to MAP and wideband before i take it to my tuner, but for now i am just running MAF and narrowband. Is there anything i can do to lean it out abit? I just want to be able to run in up to temperature and make sure everythings okay before i take it to the dyno as its quite a long drive to get there and don't want to have any problems, but its super smokey and rich. I've uploaded my basemap with a log of it running for around 30 seconds. I will b
  14. Hi all I have a 3uzfe running with a G4+ xtreme. I was originally going to run narrowband lambda and maf (factory setup) just for reliable n/a power until i supercharge later on down the line. I'm going to be taking my car to my tuner in the next month or so and figured i may aswell convert to wideband for easier and better tuning for them. Is it just a case of getting 2 bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensors, one for each bank. I already have my narrowbands wired up so should just be plug and play with wideband sensors i guess? And are those bosch sensors the ones to go for? Any recommendations?
  15. UPDATE I now have a working throttle when set to ON mode Just to test, i took the TP main and AP main, and split them into my analog inputs respectively, so then i have the sub and mains reading exactly the same throughout their travel. I set my PIDS up to stop chatter (decreased proportional gain slightly) and now i can set to ON mode and have zero faults. I ran the engine and i now have a working throttle. It will not longer idle itself now, so i'm not sure whether this is because i have my closed voltages as such that the throttle valve is now too closed for idle, or whether this
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