fiestacosworth

I think you have a trigger issue.  In the no start log there are lots of areas where RPM drops to zero yet you can see from battery voltage that it is still cranking.  In those areas the trigger 2 signal disappears.  
What does it have for triggers?  Stock 4 tooth crank and 2 tooth dizzy or something else?  Is it COP, wasted spark or distributor ign?   

are you running a BHP set up?
 

boost gear wastegate trim table is -100%
Evo4-8 default base map is -100%
I'd like to fix this in the next update

You said you done a TP calibration though.  So your calibration has told the ECU that open voltage = 4.99V and closed voltage = 4.99V.  Since that is ambiguous it will fail over to some default value, that seems to be 0% in this case.
Assuming no one has swapped the wires around on the TP sensor then your test suggests the TP sensor has failed.

Yes I know but it was unnecessary, and he has now lost the ability to go back to OE system should he want to sell the car or engine at a later date without buying an ever getting rarer engine part.
 
All the WRC Cars I am looking after nearly all have Link fitted now, and I have also helped a few other dealers configure theirs.
 
I know I am correct and I know what your trigger decoding is doing, it is not clearing the IRQ Flag on trigger 2 until the missing tooth on trigger 1 is seen again. The trigger wheel the user fitted is from Turbosport, I have fitted a Monsoon to a customers car with the exact pulley installed. As long as there was not a manufacturing fault the missing tooth will be in exact relation to the woodruff key on the crank shaft.
 
Where are these massive errors, the massive errors I was told was from running the RS500 Trigger in software with the 36-1 wheel fitted,
His post said above "I spoke to Clint at bhp and he said just set the triggers to ford duratec as that uses a 36-1 trigger and 2 point cam ? Rather than using the rs500 triggers. I tried this and it run better. Not sure what’s best "
His problems are not the pattern but more likely to still be trigger setup in software, static timing, hardware or wiring. Given 20 minutes with the car I would be able to have it running perfectly.
 
Work I do is never luck, this is a kit I sell a lot of and it works every time perfectly, fully sequential ignition and fuel, no trigger errors. 

He is running 36-1 multitooth / missing then he needs to have only 1 home tooth.
 
If he had been running with the stock 4 tooth wheel it would be okay in the "Ford Cosworth rs500" mode.

with a 36-1 crank the cam trigger will 100% need the second tooth removed. It does not mater which one is removed but it is best to use the tooth that is furthest away from the gap on the crank as it is not good to have a sync and the gap happening at the same time.
 
Regards
 
Simon

Our Multi tooth missing trigger pattern expects a single tooth on either the cam or crank. If there are two teeth it will try to reset the firing sequence at both teeth.
You must only have a single tooth sync for that trigger mode to work.
The Ford Duratec VTC is expecting 5 teeth on the cam not 2 so I would not expect it to be happy either.
 

Your misfire is definitely due to the trigger error, in the log you can see there is a 100% ignition cut being applied every time there is a spike in the RPM trace.
It would be nice to keep the 36-1 provided it is a reasonably well fitted trigger system and not something just hacked together and flimsy.  So assuming that the 36-1 is well made then the best option will be to remove one of the "phase" teeth.
I would say the Lambda is dropping out due to your battery voltage issue.   Get the charging system working and report back.