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M1tch last won the day on June 11 2019

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About M1tch

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  1. Hi all, I have a fuel table which is RPM vs MAP as the load, after reading up I can see how I need to change this over to MGP as the load - the engine is NA. Is there anyway I can use the current MAP load fueling figures to change over to MGP? I am guessing that a KPA of 100 on the MAP would be the same as 0 on an MGP load table? Am I able to base the current table to convert it over to MGP - aware that it won't be perfect but at least something to base it off, am I able to interpolate the figures or do I need to start from scratch using a basemap? Thanks in advance!
  2. Thanks for all the comments, my fuel mixture map is usually very close compared to target AFR after doing many road tuning runs, I did however notice that the CLL was working quite hard in some of my idle cells so have already adjusted though - think its now sitting at around 1-2% correction on idle. Will turn the CLL off again and do a few more logging runs to make sure that there aren't any other cells that were a bit too far out from target - I know that OEM ECUs usually have long term and short term fuel corrections but I guess with a properly tuned fuel map I only need the short term adjustments on the CLL.
  3. Hi there, I was just wondering if there is any data captured with regards to the fuel trim being set in each of the fuel cells - much like the knock values in the various per cylinder knock tables. I do have Closed Loop Lambda running with my wideband O2 sensor (set to auto mode), I know that the knock trims can be stored on the ECU for the next start up to adjust the ignition map etc, was wondering if the same was true for the fuel map? Does the close loop lambda settings mean that the ECU needs to relearn the fueling everytime the car is driven or does it store the trims somewhere to use as a basis? Thanks in advance!
  4. Thanks for that, I think I bumped it up to 8 in the lambda rate table, not sure how far its worth worth going to.
  5. Hi all, Just wondering what the best settings would be on the closed loop lambda setup would be, I have an MOT on the car on Monday, have set the AFR table to be at 14.7:1, timing set to I think 12 degrees, using the auto fuel (wideband) option eg it looks at the AFR table and adjusts the fueling. I did try the Stoich (wideband) option for closed loop but didn't find that to really work that well, I guess its probably mainly used on cruise, I have done my best to adjust the fuel table to be as close to 14.7 as I can with the closed loop lambda tweaking the last bit - think I saw the fuel trim to be at around 3%. My main question is what frequency I should set the adjustments to, I believe as stock its set to adjust 4 times a second, would it work better if I increased this - eg it would adjust fueling quicker or would it just make it too jumpy? My main concern with the MOT is the Lambda needing to be at 1 (plus or minus 3%), the cat itself is fine and I think I should be ok with the timing set to 12 degrees (service manual for the engine states idle to be between 10 and 14 I believe) - just want to make sure that the wideband adjusts to stoich as quickly as possible. Also, is it best to have a more advanced timing or retarded timing for ignition with regards to emissions?
  6. M1tch

    Newbie switch question

    Thank you so much for your help on this, just wired in to a spare DI and set it to anti theft, works spot on when the wire is grounded - means I can simply run 1 wire from the switch to the ECU (and earth it close to the switch) from the various switches I want rather than needing to run power to the switch as well.
  7. M1tch

    Newbie switch question

    Hi all, Really quick newbie question, I am going to wire in a switch on the dash to enable launch control/other options, do I need to wire the switch to a 12v supply to feed to the ECU DI input or can I simply have the input switch to ground? Sorry if its a really obvious answer!
  8. I am planning to run boost by gear and think I might look to run some reduced timing, just wasn't sure if there was a 3d table that is usually used to adjust. I will be looking to run the car at various boost levels, will look to gradually increase the boost levels to see where the torque is, just looking at ways to limit the peak torque in the mid range as the higher RPM parts of the map won't need adjusting as the torque would be lower but the top end power will be there. Eg the torque might be within limits for the entire map apart from a small section at say 4k-5k at peak torque so knocking the peak torque back slightly would mean that the box should be fine but I would still be able to attain top end power. To be fair I probably don't really need to be pushing the boost too high anyway, the goal of the project is to run an 11 second 1/4 mile meaning I probably only need to be running mid 300bhp to get there so might not need to run big boost, I guess part of my issue is that I don't know how much power and torque my setup might make.
  9. Hi all, Bit of an odd one, just wanted to ask how best to limit the torque output via the engine mapping, the basis of this question is owing to the torque limit on my transmission - basically looking to limit peak torque in certain scenarios. I will be getting my forged engine fully mapped on a rolling road but just wanted to ask the question now. Basically my forged engine will have the capacity to have a higher torque output than my upgraded gearbox is rated to, I know that my gearbox can cope with slightly more than its rated torque but am looking at how to limit peak torque when needed - a bit like an engine rev limiter. I am guessing I should be able to limit the torque by pulling timing out in certain cells at certain boost levels using a 3D table? Eg: 7 psi - no adjustment 14 psi - no adjustment 21 psi - some adjustment 28 psi - more adjustment For my build, here are my limits (to give everyone an idea): 1.8 Litre engine Forged rods and pistons (9.5:1 compression) Supertech valvetrain rated to 8,500rpm CSS strengthened block able to cope with around 600bhp Stock gearbox with upgraded 3rd and 4th gears - rated to 295ft/lbs although have chatted to someone who ran 365 ft/lbs through them Now, a stock engine with a low boost turbo (7psi) makes around 220 bhp and 185 ft/lb torque, and probably around 250bhp and 200ft/lbs at 12 psi, have seen figures for a forged engine making around 420bhp and the 365 ft/lbs at 35 psi on a GT3071 turbo, I am looking at an EFR 6758 for my build which should flow well at lower boost but not run out of legs at the top end. Is anyone able to guesstimate the sort of torque I should be expecting? I think I should be ok with a bar of boost in terms of torque but anything more I think I might need to run a limit of some sort to keep it around the 300ft/lb mark - basically looking to make the most power I can (as the rest of the engine can make it). I have also seen these engine make around 500bhp at 7,500 rpm and 28psi on a 6262 but the peak torque is probably at around 460 ft/lbs - tad much! Plan for my build is an 11 second 1/4 mile car but daily driven - plan to run full power at the drag strip then drop boost pressure to a lot lower for the road - basically looking to make sure that the gearbox holds ok for the couple of drag runs to prove it can run the time but then turn it down at all other times. Sorry - was a bit of a long post but was just wondering what everyone suggests.
  10. Hi all, Odd question about this, some OEM manufacturers allow cylinder deactivation when on cruise, usually on the much larger engine such as the Hemi powered 300c which deactivates 4 of the 8 cylinders when on cruise to save on fuel. I was just wondering if this is something that the Link ECU could do at all? It would activate when the engine goes into closed loop fueling on cruise as you need very little power to maintain speed when on the motorway etc, even my 4 cylinder could drop to 2 cylinders. Thought it might be something interesting to bring up as I know there are various project cars and cars running fairly large engines on this forum and it might be of interest to keep the running costs down (for example when driven to a track).
  11. Just a quick update, seems to be a bit hit and miss, managed to get a long log of a commute to work but it failed again on a log on a trip back - I set the tablet to be always on, never sleep and never turn the screen off. Will try and log a few more runs etc and see if it messes up again, not sure what caused the last log to fail, never had an issue before the recent update.
  12. Thanks for that, I did see an anti theft setting for the CANBUS I think, didn't know about the DI option - there are so many options for DI on the list!
  13. Hi all, Just wondering if anyone had installed/configured any anti theft or additional security measures using the Link ecu, my car is a road going car so want to add a few additional layers of security. I am thinking perhaps about wiring in a toggle switch to one of the inputs and then hiding it somewhere under the dash so that for the fuel pump to prime (or maybe even to turn the ECU on) the toggle switch would need to be on. Just wondering if anyone had configured anything?
  14. Just been out again, logging seems to be ok, looks like all of the previous times I have logged data I have simply hit record and put the tablet down on the passenger seat, seems to keep logging ok even if the screen turns off after a couple of minutes which is good. Recorded 3 logs, happy to find that fueling is on average 0.1 AFR to target, always satisfying when my AEM gauge is showing 14.7:1 when on cruise without the closed loop lambda settings running Now just need to find a way to log knock levels without turning on knock control, but I guess that's for another day!
  15. Thanks for that, I will see if it's the tablet going to sleep etc, I can see it's recorded 7 minutes of data so thought it should be ok. Guess I will go out again for another drive with the logging on. Luckily this should only be a slight tweak to the map, fuelling seems to be about right.
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