Jump to content

M1tch

Members
  • Posts

    171
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by M1tch

  1. Hi there, Just checking my base ignition in terms of trigger calibration, have been trying using the help file but its not adjusting at all so not sure what I am doing wrong! Trigger offset is currently set to 140 in the ECU file, I opened the set base timing whilst the engine was idling and the default setting was at 0 degrees BTDC which pulled the timing to a positive figure when using a strobe light. I then had the engine off, opened up the 'set base timing' option, set it to 10 degrees and started the engine, it idled at around 5 degrees BTDC which means that its probably around 5 degrees retarded to where it thinks it is. Changing this value when the engine is running to say 145 does NOTHING at all to the timing that I can see on the strobe light - would have thought that at 140 degrees offset = 5 degrees then 145 degrees offset should mean 10 degrees and match with the locked value. Do I need to have the engine off, press the set base timing option, set the figures to 10 degrees lock timing AND the offset to 145 before starting the engine? Thought you were able to change things on the fly without needing to come out and back in again. Even if I set the value to 145 and press Done it still has the offset values set to 140 so ignores the change anyway.
  2. Have just adjusted the gain to 4 rather than 5 and adjusted cylinder 1 to 0.95 rather than 1.00 so its more inline with the others, boost was stable at around 12psi (map of 180kpa) across the rev range. There is a minor exhaust leak so I think there might be some rich misfire up top, not sure whats going on with cylinder 3 but at least I know where the rest of the knock levels are at. Noticed that the hint in the help file is for the knock threshold to be about 20% higher than the highest non knock level. I think I might drop the gain down to 3 so that there is more headroom - although looking at another 2nd gear pull the highest knock apart from cylinder 3 seems to be at around 400 - again need to check why 1 cylinder is spiking up a bit as I don't think its going to be knock. Cylinder 3 was showing consistent 'knock' level of around 800 as can be seen below- its not spiked though. Perhaps I should adjust the cylinder 3 level gain to say 0.75 rather than 0.80 - I can see it is slightly higher on the runs on Saturday as well.
  3. Hi all, Just logged some data from some 1/4 mile runs yesterday, I have been tweaking the knock control for a while to get the cylinder trims about right and adjusted the knock threshold a bit as well as the gain (currently at a gain of 5). After checking the logs from one of the runs yesterday (not been able to fully run through all the RPMs on the road) I can see that its pulling about 5 degrees of timing out at the top end as its over the knock threshold. I have recently changed over to some stiffer poly engine mounts which I would guess are now adding additional vibration into the system. From what I can see as the cylinders are showing fairly equal 'knock' that its not actually knock its just more vibration so I am thinking that I perhaps just need to dial down the gain slightly to reduce the signal. I can then log a run in 2nd gear on the road and see where that peaks at and adjust where needed - might also dial back cylinder 1 slightly as its consistently higher. You can also see in 3rd and 4th gear the boost level is fluctuating and not actually reaching boost target probably due to the timing being pulled. You can see that the fluctuations are about the same time as the knock threshold is exceeded - 5 degrees of timing is being pulled out meaning that the engine is being given around 7 degrees advanced at around 13 psi. Current cylinder level gains are (might actually just reset to just 1 across all cylinder): 1 = 1.00 2 = 0.80 3 = 0.80 4 = 0.85 Just wanted to sense check that this 'knock' is actually just mechanical noise rather than true knock as its gradual vs the RPM - note that I am seeing the same trend when I ran at spring pressure (7psi) compared to 12-13psi in later runs.
  4. Thanks Adam, have just run this table and it seems much better in terms of control - don't think I need any further granularity for these, mainly just to split out the different duty cycle curves needed for each gear. Stage 1 runs at 90% until stage 2 starts 50kpa below target so the turbo spools ok at the moment but might need some fettling. Basically the 'low boost' 180kpa setting it working well so far, gradually creeping up on the 220kpa mid boost levels - only bumped to around 200kpa on about 40-50% duty cycle so hopefully can make it to 220kpa with a bit more. Needs around 23-32% to hold 180kpa, its needing double that to get to around 200kpa, spring pressure to 180kpa is around 3psi, 180kpa to 200kpa is another 3psi so guessing bumping up to 220kpa is another 3psi so needing an extra 20-30% on top maybe (thinking about 20% every 3 psi increase). As a guess I would need something in the region of 60-80% duty cycle to get to 220kpa so just about within the limits of the MAC valve.
  5. Slight update on this topic, have adjusted the preload on the turbo now, base pressure is set at around 9.5psi, its also hitting the lower boost target of 180kpa at around 25-30% duty cycle, which is great as its not needing to do a lot to get up to the 180kpa lower boost levels. Issue comes with the slightly higher boost level when aiming for 220kpa, I have set the wastegate trim to increase by 30% and again at 50% and its not really getting there - might have to bump it much higher. I guess my issue is that because the preload is now at a higher level I need less wastegate duty to get to the lower target figure. The wastegate trim is based on percentage of the base table so an example: Old table needing 40% to get to 180kpa, 30% trim increase would give me 52% 'base' duty New table needing just 25% to get to 180kpa, 30% trim increase would give me 32.5% 'base' duty or 37.5% 'base' duty at 50% trim increase. I guess I would need 100% trim (think that's the max) to get just 50% 'base' duty which might not be enough to run the boost to 220kpa - worth noting that the current base table is now dialled in to hit the 180kpa spot on so don't really want to increase the duty cycle on the base table anymore. Is there a way I can run 2 boost duty tables and run it dependant on gear? Eg a 3d table or perhaps just have gear vs RPM with duty cycle? Wonder if this would work: I have put the gear status vs RPM in the active boost wastegate table Zeroed out 1st gear so it runs spring pressure Gears 2, 4 and 5 have the duty cycles that work for 180kpa Bumped gears 3 and 4 by 50% (although might need to go higher but can now be adjusted independently) Base boost table at 180kpa Wastegate duty trims are zeroed out (as the table does the bump in duty cycle) Boost offset in 3rd and 4th are there to the desired amount above the base boost target table Boost control will activate at 80kpa (might drop this slightly) but will mean that nothing will activate during 'normal' driving around town.
  6. Will check the preload once the engine cools down a bit, have changed over the BOV, checked all leaks for both exhaust and boost hoses, not allowed to attach the log file as its too large it seems but its still pulling duty even when its still far under target and not really increasing that fast.
  7. I will check over all of the plumbing and check the preload on the wastegate as well to see whats happening - it was previously holding 220kpa at 65% duty cycle which is why I was wondering what had happened when it was maxxing out at less than that. With regards to my boost targets, I am limiting boost levels by gear due to having slightly stronger 3rd and 4th gear, I have worked out that I think the max torque the other gears is at around 180kpa - this is why the base table is at 180kpa with a boost by gear modifier for 3rd and 4th. I also left some cells blank below say 50% throttle as I don't really need the turbo to spool up when on cruise or around town etc, have also seen that this is also the case so that it doesn't try and spool up mid corner on lighter throttle. My plan for boost by gear is: 1st - wastegate spring pressure to allow for easier launches 2nd - 180kpa 3rd - 220kpa+ 4th - 220kpa+ 5th - 180kpa 6th - 180kpa To your point though, I might look to set the whole base table to 180kpa, unsure what spring I currently have in the wastegate at the moment but might see if I can run something like a 9psi spring to then boost up to 12psi easier (but not overshoot which could damage the gearbox) but make it easier to get to higher boost levels where I can. I think I have worked out that I can run around 220-240kpa maybe to 260kpa at higher RPMs in 3rd and 4th in terms of torque rating but currently I am just after 180kpa base bumping up to 220kpa for 3rd and 4th.
  8. I have attached a log file from the drag strip this morning which will give you 2 sets of some full throttle pulls in both normal boost at 180kpa and higher boost 220kpa, I pulled out boost control in 1st near the end of the runs but the duty cycle is the same I believe. You can see from the start of the week screenshot that at 58% duty cycle it was sitting at 180kpa with boost being controlled at 220kpa at 65% duty cycle.
  9. Dropped the duty cycle back slightly inline with how the system was commanding the turbo, its now just completely ignoring the target - its 40kpa off and not correcting anything?
  10. Still battling with this, might revert back to the original settings - boost controller thought it would be funny to just randomly chuck in another 7.5% duty cycle to spike it into boost cut after undershooting again at the RPM where its at maximum torque whilst pulling out duty cycle before hand to make it not actually hit target.
  11. I have increased the stage 3 to 30kpa to see if it can 'reset' itself a bit, still seem to have the issue that the D value is pulling out too much duty making the turbo quite lazy and missing its boost target and which is cyclic as it undershoots and then never turns off as its undershot. I have 1/4 mile drag track time booked in for this weekend so I can hopefully get to the bottom of this - car sometimes runs at the boost level I have set but not all of the time, kinda want to only have the 'D' duty cycle below a certain point for the initial spool until it hits its boost target.
  12. If you right click and select 'whats this?' option it will open the help file with all of the explaination of how these work - its very comprehensive. If you aren't able to update the deadtimes for injectors or tune the fuel table using the AFR tables and logs it might be worth booking into a tuner for the work else you might cause damage.
  13. In that last log where its undershot the target is at 220kpa, kpa at that point is 198 so 2kpa under where stage 3 will trigger (20kpa under the target) - will perhaps bump this to 25kpa for stage 3. Have adjusted some of the DC during spool up to avoid the D value needing to pull DC to avoid the overshoot - some of these 3rd gear pulls are from a lower rpm rather than shifting at higher RPMs so might be another issue - unable to really rev out much more in 3rd due to road logging and speed limits.
  14. Will keep it as stage 2-3, D might be too high although it is preventing an overshoot ok, have pulled back the DC on the spool part of the map and will see if that helps - sometimes its fine though and the DC for the part of the map on boost seems to be about right. Should I increase the stage 3 on KPa value? I can see all 3 stages being used in the logs so everything is triggering.
  15. I have looked back again at some of the maps vs logging for various pulls, I think the issue is that the initial cells when coming onto boost are slightly too high meaning that the derivative gain is pulling duty out of the map to avoid an overshoot but when it actually gets to the cells where the turbo is spooling up they are basically correct. I have found a fair few pulls where the derivative gain is at 0 when the turbo is on boost but I can see it pulling duty beforehand - I have adjusted the wastegate duty basemap during the spooling area of the map to match off the actual wastegate duty cycle being commanded by the closed loop system which should hopefully mean that the closed loop system doesn't panic as it sees the turbo build boost quickly. I am seeing stage 1 spool, stage 2 as well as stage 3 operate back and forth so I think my PID gains are ok, it doesn't overshoot and boost comes on quite strongly but smoothly - I can see that the Integral %DC is only up to around 5% at the max so well within the integral clamp - have dropped the clamp to +/- 15% although it doesn't get near it which is good. I did originally have some of the pre spool duty cycle cells higher than they are currently which might have caused this issue over the past week or so - my thought was to get the turbo to spool up quicker but I know stage 1 goes to 90% duty cycle to get the spool up anyway.
  16. I have now roughed out the open loop map and am sorting out the closed loop map - and it works most of the time, I have noticed that with stage 2-3 enabled that sometimes the stage 3 or indeed the 'D' part is sometimes too aggressive with the P and I values getting me there in terms of boost level requested. I am tempted to just run stage 2 rather than stage 2-3, I am running 2 boost levels based on gear, 180kpa in 1st, 2nd, 5th and 6th with 220kpa target for 3rd and 4th (due to my gearbox setup). I have noticed that on I might need to bump the base map by around 3% duty cycle on the solenoid to get a perfectly stable 180kpa, once I then change gear sometimes the value of D gets pulled over to the higher boost target and means it undershoots then back to the lower boost the D value adjusts the value away and it doesn't boost as high. Example below is a lower boost pull, I can see that I need to adjust the duty cycle by around 3% on the base table but thats fine: On a slightly higher boost level I can see that it boosts ok, minor overshoot but thats fine - think I am near the limit of the wastegate spring but again needs about 3% more duty cycle on the base table. Further on and boosting again in 3rd to 220kpa the D is pulling out 3% overall (the wrong way), I can see the D value is pulling out 3%, 6%, 9% and even 12% in later pulls even at lower boost and its not even hitting target anymore with an undershoot of 40kpa in some of the higher boost gears. I can only partly guess that it might be fighting the wastegate spring a bit, although it seems to be ok to boost up to 220kpa and has gone higher than that before - only at around 60% duty cycle at 220kpa. Wastegate trim increase of 35% in 2nd and 3rd to get the higher boost levels Is it worth me doing the following: 1. Check the logs and add in 2-3% duty cycle to the base table to mean the closed loop system doesn't need to work almost at all for the target boost levels 2. Change over to stage 2 only rather than stage 2-3 Settings for the closed loop are here:
  17. Think I have sorted it using the user defined option, think 655 was when it was logging reverse - will keep an eye on it.
  18. Hi all, Just working through boost by gear, I have set the gear detection to ECU calculated and the table is populated with the various gear ratios based on KPH/RPM. I can see that most of the time the ECU does calculate the correct gear but sometimes it just drops out and just shows gear 0 - which then causes issues if I am trying to aim for a higher boost in that gear. I have a digital input #1 as my speed source which is calibrated correctly and is 1 hz = 1mph - the units settings are set to MPH via PClink. I have noticed that at 30mph (30hz on DI#1) is showing as 46.3rpm/kph and its calculated 3rd which is correct, slightly odd though as its showing 41.94rpm/kph in the ECU calculated table? Does the system allow a variance at all? Looking at some of the logs I believe these are what I am getting using the output from the log: 1st = 655.35 rpm/kph 2nd = around 107 to 112 rpm/kph 3rd = around 61.50 to 62.10 rpm/kph 4th = around 34.80 to 35.20 rpm/kph 5th and 6th i've not really checked via the logs yet, below is the table in the ECU, should I just bin it off and add the above figures in?
  19. Thanks for that Adam, will look to perhaps set the initial settings within those ranges and see what the results are, ideally with a well tweaked open loop base map the closed loop part shouldn't need to do much heavy lifting to get to the boost targets etc.
  20. Hi all, Currently road tuning my car to build up a good open loop wastegate duty cycle base table, next phase will be to then use this as the base table and drop it into closed loop boost control. Plan will be to have boost by gear and also lower/reduce boost at lower throttle as well as when the engine is not up to full temperature. Just looking at some of the base maps that have PID enabled as well as the help file I can see that the integral gain is usually set to 0.3 with the derivative gain set to 3. Looking at a few of the base maps for other cars like the TT and Celica ST205 however the integral gain is set to 0.08 and the derivative gain is set to 0.5. My question is, what should I start my closed loop PID to as a starting point? Will mainly be working on getting the open loop table sorted out first but would be great to get some basic settings sorted for closed loop. Engine is currently fitted with the weakest wastegate spring during some shake down running (around 6-7psi) and planning to target something like 10-12psi as the 'higher' boost setting initially although the gearbox is rated to hold the torque of over 20psi so the current boost levels aren't going to really concern the engine if I 'overshoot' the boost to say 14psi although I would doubt it with such a weak spring.
  21. Hi all, I have fitted a Jaguar charge cooler from an F pace to my car (as its now turbocharged), I believe this is a Delphi intake air temp sensor - my current settings are for a Bosch sensor and its currently showing around -25c as an intake temp (its around 17c or so). I can see that there is a Delphi AC IAT option - should I try that or does someone know what the calibration table I need to use is?
  22. Thanks for this, I might see if I can book in an emissions test with the garage just to check things are correct, I have just changed injectors over so am reworking the fuel table. I seem to have things sorted in the right sort of ball park though, have set the update rate to be at 4 which seems to give a stable correction of a few % in the idle part of the map. Need to run the car at higher RPMs to make sure the lower load higher RPM parts of the map are close enough as well.
  23. Perfect, thanks Adam, I figured if I set it to Stoich wideband it would work as per OEM narrowband otherwise there would be no real reason to have this option for wideband as you would just use auto.
  24. Thanks for the responses so far - I will only be running a single wideband O2 sensor for the engine - I can see that the changes per second for fuelling in CLL is set higher at lower RPMs. I have previously upped it slightly however I found if it made is really erratic as the fuel correction was changed quicker than the mixture was changing so the idle wasn't stable! I guess the question is - have others passed the emission test with just a wideband O2 sensor running CLL? I have a feeling there must have been!
  25. Hi all, Just working on my mapping in terms of ensuring that I am able to pass the UK MOT emissions test - which tests CO, HC and Lambda - Lambda needs to be at 1, plus or minus 3%. I have a single wideband O2 sensor which I have set to run as auto fuelling compared to the AFR table. I have learnt that the main cat would usually need the fueling to dither between rich and lean as this increases the efficiency of the cat. https://www.crypton.co.za/Tto know/Emissions/catalitic_converters.html I know with the auto fuel option with the wideband sensor the fuelling starts with whatever is on the main fuelling table and then gradually adjusts to that target. The stock narrow band sensors dither around a lambda of 1 - going rich then lean in cycles which makes the cat work as expected. Question is - is there a way I can set the CLL to dither using my wideband sensor? I can see that I can set wideband and Stoich rather than auto, would this dither or could I set the CLL to the narrowband option? Last year I had to plug the stock ECU back in again to get past the emissions - my setup has the O2 sensor pre cat with the emissions test being done at the exhaust pipe end with about an 8% drop in AFR pre and post cat, I tuned it to sit at 1 at the engine but was leaner at the test sensor in the end of the exhaust. Really need to ensure I have everything in place for next year as I don't have an option to run the stock ECU on my engine anymore and there must be a way to allow me to run the Link ECU and be able to pass emissions.
×
×
  • Create New...