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  1. 1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Thanks Clint for your help and advice and taking the time to respond, I decided to ship the part to them to swap out, so fingers crossed that sorts it and then they can map with VVTI. Just have to keep everything crossed and wait patiently now.
  2. 1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Hi, Here's the info from the tuner, I guess the best thing for now is to disable VVTI on the ECU, and tune as best without VVTI, then I can get the motor back and do some parts swapping from my old motor, if I can get the VVTI working then they said I can take it back and they can make so adjustments to take into account the VVTI (as the majority of the base setup will be done). They also said likely with the turbo and once tuned properly, I probably won't notice the difference between using or not using VVTI. The engine builder is adamant VVTI was working on the motor before putting into my car with the new ECU and kit though and all parts were good, so it's a stalemate sadly, and I can't burn money on them trying to rip it apart and diagnose as they are saying the ECU etc is all reading and doing what it should but VVTI just doesn't function, below is their response to me: I scoped the output from the ECU to the vvti solenoid at both the ECU and the solenoid. The trace on the scope follows the output from the ECU exactly. When we run the car and make changes to the vvti cam map, the target and actual cam angles are visible both in runtime data and also on the dedicated cam setup layout I have setup in the link software. The cam angle target follows the map precisely and the scope trace follows the solenoid duty output from the ECU, but there is no change in cam angle. The various inputs required are all showing correctly and I did double check (and correct) the cam offset angle as it was 6 degrees out. I have to admit you cannot hear the solenoid clicking as it only receives 12v once the engine is running in order to prevent incorrect valve timing on startup. So either the solenoid has failed, which I can check tomorrow with a 12v jumper or the engine isn’t allowing the cam to swing. Oh they just tested the solenoid with an external power source and it's dead, the OCV doesn't actuate when a power source is applied to it. I have a spare working one here I can ship. They can replace but it's going to cost, either that or they can map without VVTI, I bring it home change the parts myself for free, then they remote in and confirm whether it is working and if it is, I schedule going back for some adjustments. Difficult one.
  3. 1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Spot on thanks for that! I just simulated it on a 1zz motor I have here on my stand and by feeding 12v to the solonoid there is a definite audiable clack. I’ll ask cheers!
  4. 1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Thanks clint i’ll pass this info on and see what they say I’ve passed on the info. I don’t suppose anyone knows what the vvti system needa in order to function? I get that it needs good oil pressure and the cam position sensor (and a working vvt solonoid / ocv). Is there anything else the link vvti function would need in order for it to opperate? **edit** They said they couldn’t hear a click from the solonoid. It was registered on the ecu and they could see the sensor but it wouldn’t do anything.
  5. 1zz VVTI un-resonsive

    Hi All, I've got my car in for mapping, the mapper says that the VVTI system is unresponsive, yet the engine builder says that the VVTI was operating before the new engine was fitted in my car. The mapper can see the solonoid and the cam position sensor but the VVTI is unresponsive? They aren't sure what to try, as the chap that built the engine said both the solonoid and oil channel is fine in the engine, and it was functioning prior to the link being used. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks.
  6. Slow cranking

    Thanks for that. This kit has no o2 sensor, do you recommend getting one? Will it make any difference once the car is set up and mapped properly with one on the RR? I can't put one near the manifold as it is cast and it has a 200 cell sports cat fitted, if I should fit one where would be best? Thanks! Oh and would a £70 Bosch one be ok?
  7. Slow cranking

    Thanks guys, yep best to leave those in the know to do what they do best, I was just keen to try and get it starting better myself. JMP your fuel and ignition table makes it turn over faster and arguably idle smoother (much less lumpy). I think the car you tuned is different loom wise and sensor wise though. For example my setup has no narrowband o2 sensors at all and the idle control is different for sure. It also had some changes made to the MAF. I am not sure regarding injector size etc, so I can only assume that the map need to be set up properly and then hopefully as you guys say the rest can be dialed in. Is it worth getting a wideband for after the car is mapped for the G4 to use, or once they have tuned it should it not be needed?
  8. Slow cranking

    Righto, loaded in some of the idle and ignition settings from your map, it started from cold in about three turns and fast. But it wouldn't idle, just died. I loaded back the crappy map I have, and reduced the upper left corner of the ignition table lower, cranking seems nice and quick now normal speed. Took it round the block and started and stopped it about 5 times, seemed a lot better, not perfect but cut the cranking time by at least half. Pulled over one last time at full temp, I left it ticking over while I was looking at some settings, but it started hunting at idle, bouncing around four boxes in fuel and ignition in a circular fashion. It's done this on the way home when I picked it up. I couldn't find out what was causing it, so I switched off, but then it was back to taking a long time to crank, at least 4-5 seconds, so I came home then parked it up and put the battery on charge after all of the starts. I guess something needs adjusting for it to start better when hot? At this point I assume I just need to be patient, not really use it and wait to get it to the mapper and on the rolling road.
  9. Slow cranking

    Just a quick one, was the 1zz engine stock? IE stock compression? Did it have larger injectors? I just discovered an old map you posted, the fuel table on my base map and the fuel table in the map you posted is very similar at any given RPM, however my ignition table is hugely advanced in nearly all areas. I will not be driving the car anything other than very light throttle to the mappers and getting it sorted there, but I may load in your ignition table to see if it helps the car, thoughts? My 1zz block is running standard compression although it has forged rods and different pistons. I am not sure of the injectors but they are larger. The wastegate is set to only 7psi at the moment. I don't have a wideband, and I am not familiar with mapping, but I do need to get it 80 miles to get it mapped in a few weeks, and again could really do with it starting better. Thanks.
  10. Slow cranking

    Thanks JMP! That's how I would like mine to start! Slow cranking nearly sorted, earth strap needed sorting and it's cranking quite a bit faster now. Still a long crank though, it literally turns for about 4 seconds before firing. Do you recommend notching down the ignition timing 500RPM and below? Thanks, Just to add the current table looks a bit all over the place, if you look from 50kpa then to 90 the it looks very off. Not sure this base map is anything like sorted...
  11. Slow cranking

    Thanks good idea to pull the coils. I’ll try that. i plugged the laptop in and looked at the mapalso, it’s 35 degrees advance up to 500 rpm. It’s a small 1.8 high compression Toyota petrol engine, seems high. compression should be stock, stock comp pistons used, larger / heavier forged rods.
  12. Slow cranking

    Hi Guys, Just had a G4 fitted to my mr2 1zz turbo. I will be getting it set up in January, it has a base map loaded. The issue is, on the factory ECU the car turned over perfect, since the G4 is fitted it cranks slowly (almost feels like the battery is low). The existing battery was 3 years old, so I switched to a new one today, but the same issue? The chap who re-built my engine and fitted the ECU said that aftermarket ECU's can take more juice, but I don't buy that this is causing the slow cranking. I read on the forum that timing could effect starting and cause slow cranking? Could this be right? The battery as I said is good, alternator is good, even with the new battery fully charged it cranks slow (and takes a while to start assume that is the map). The earth is good etc, and starter. Any ideas appreciated, I don't want to take it to the mapper and it die / not start. Thanks,